eTorque Bearing Replacement, Fixed Grinding Noise

[Farachie]

The rotational speed of the 5.7L HEMI eTorque motor-generator at an engine speed of 5,000 RPM is 13,900 RPM. This is calculated based on the pulley ratio that connects the engine's crankshaft to the motor-generator.

My math came out a little different. The crank pulley is 7.24 inches in diameter and the MGU pulley is 2.3 inches in diameter. That would be closer to 15,700 RPM on the MGU when the engine is at 5000 RPM. I could be missing something. I hope your math is better than mine because the fastest rated front bearing, deep grove roller bearing, that I could find is limited to 13,000 RPM max.

 

[Farachie]

I just took mine apart and have both front and rear bearings, I don’t think it’ll be doable to take that pulley off without damaging something. You don’t even have enough room to grab the pulley on the backside of it

I got mine off. It isn't impossible but it is difficult. I used a beefy puller with a cross supporting/clamping bolt. I'll put a picture below. Got it as tight as I possibly could on the front lip and sent it home with an impact after heating the pulley with a torch. When the puller arms were about to slip off, I stopped tightening the jacking bolt and then hit the jacking bolt with a hammer. It popped off. There was a little bit of damage to the pulley, but very minimal and I cleaned that up with a jewelers file.

 

[Slinder91]

I got mine off. It isn't impossible but it is difficult. I used a beefy puller with a cross supporting/clamping bolt. I'll put a picture below. Got it as tight as I possibly could on the front lip and sent it home with an impact after heating the pulley with a torch. When the puller arms were about to slip off, I stopped tightening the jacking bolt and then hit the jacking bolt with a hammer. It popped off. There was a little bit of damage to the pulley, but very minimal and I cleaned that up with a jewelers file.

nice job, I’ve been eyeballing that master set from ICON too lol, but without 100% confirmation that the front bearing I have would work, couldn’t see a point in potentially ruining it. I’m honestly suprised Ram doesn’t provide rebuild kits or bearings that you could order directly from them to repair these, I’m just another one on the waiting list with no ETA

 

[Trooper4]

Did a search for 5192368AH and several popped up, but when inquiring, there might be a supply problem. Did see a fet that said in stock.

Ram 1500 Belt driven. Generator. Starter. 5.7 liter - 5192368AH | Mopar Parts Webstores,

Belt driven. Generator. Starter. 5.7 liter, w/etorque. Ram 1500. Genuine Ram Part - 5192368AH (5192368AC, 5192368AD, 5192368AE, 5192368AF, 5192368AG). Ships from Mopar Parts Webstores,

www.moparpartswebstores.com

 

[Trooper4]

My math came out a little different. The crank pulley is 7.24 inches in diameter and the MGU pulley is 2.3 inches in diameter. That would be closer to 15,700 RPM on the MGU when the engine is at 5000 RPM. I could be missing something. I hope your math is better than mine because the fastest rated front bearing, deep grove roller bearing, that I could find is limited to 13,000 RPM max.

Got the numbers from google search AI, but what the hE!! does AI know?

 

[Farachie]

Got the numbers from google search AI, but what the hE!! does AI know?

That's understandable. I also used AI and it said the MGU pulley was 4 inches in diameter. I then measured it myself because that didn't seem correct. It is not 4 inches. it is 2.3.

 

[mjpMKE]

Like many others with the 5.7 eTorque mine started making a grinding noise. At first it sounded like an old power steering pump without fluid. Then, it progressed into a horrible bad bearing sound. All the while the dealer told me the part was backordered and that I should keep driving it (my truck is under warranty with about 25000 miles on it). Eventually the noise got so bad I told the dealer I couldn't drive it any longer as I was worried about causing other damage or short circuiting and starting a fire. Again, they nor Ram offered any solution so I took matters into my own hands. In the next few posts I will try to spell out how to remove and rebuild the eTorque unit (provided yours failed the same as mine). My truck is a '21. I have no idea if they are all the same. I also have no idea if my repair procedure will cause other damage of any other kind. The risk to attempt repair is yours. This probably voids warranty. My repair was successful and my truck runs fine with no abnormal noises. I apologize ahead of time as the following posts will likely be long. I will try to get them typed up and posted tonight or tomorrow. I joined the forum to hopefully help others that are stuck in the same crappy situation.

My 2019 Rebel started making the same bearing noise but, I was also getting a burnt electrical smell. It is still covered by the 8yr 80K emissions warranty. The dealer is covering with a rental vehicle from Enterprise. They could not get me into a "Chrysler" brand vehicle until Friday, I had the vehicle there on a Wednesday. Had to drive it for another day and it got worse as far as noise and burning smell. My dealer says the part is on the national backorder and only gives me 2 weeks or 2 months timeline so far. They have no idea when the parts will be available?

 

[Trooper4]

Actually out there

https://parts.mopargenuineparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-engine-generator-kit-68623194ac?c=az0xJnE9Njg2MjMxOTRBQg%3D%3D&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjw267GBhCSARIsAOjVJ4GYgBMYIuX5BiUi5Y5YiXni6KUd8OLdy2A_MdiwedkMJ7e9STxkn2gaAvDEEALw_wcB

https://parts.moparonlineparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-engine-generator-kit-68623194ac?c=az0xJnE9Njg2MjMxOTRBQg%3D%3D&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjw267GBhCSARIsAOjVJ4HDB4ieBlzZlOUJukFE_ExqVudf4_4EYvxk_1fsovfFRqoHZo-xggYaAsiFEALw_wcB

Pardon Our Interruption...

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Trooper4]

My 2019 Rebel started making the same bearing noise but, I was also getting a burnt electrical smell. It is still covered by the 8yr 80K emissions warranty. The dealer is covering with a rental vehicle from Enterprise. They could not get me into a "Chrysler" brand vehicle until Friday, I had the vehicle there on a Wednesday. Had to drive it for another day and it got worse as far as noise and burning smell. My dealer says the part is on the national backorder and only gives me 2 weeks or 2 months timeline so far. They have no idea when the parts will be available?

If you can turn a wrench, order the bearings and do it yourself. Several here have.

 

[Slinder91]

6003-2rsh bearing alongside the OEM.

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[Slinder91]

Does anyone have the correct size bearings for the MGU? 2019 ram 1500 5.7 I’ve tried the McMaster part number 6661k86 and I’ve also ordered the 6003-2rsh. Both are too small


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[wwright]

Does anyone have the correct size bearings for the MGU? 2019 ram 1500 5.7 I’ve tried the McMaster part number 6661k86 and I’ve also ordered the 6003-2rsh. Both are too small


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I have a 2019 and also am now part of the crew with a failing MGU. Hopefully mine is just the bearing as well, it has a grinding noise happening and a voltage drop.
So if you do find out which bearing is correct for the 2019, I'll be following. I don't plan to take it apart for the moment.

 

[Trooper4]

Does anyone have the correct size bearings for the MGU? 2019 ram 1500 5.7 I’ve tried the McMaster part number 6661k86 and I’ve also ordered the 6003-2rsh. Both are too small


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From another thread-
He has a 2019 and just opened mine up today. Both bearings are different than any listed anywhere online. The front is a standard 25x62x17mm bearing with snap rings on both sides. The rear is weird. It's 17mm ID, 40mm OD, but the outer race is 13 mm wide, and the inner race is 10mm wide offset, flush with the outer race on one side. This one has a snap ring as well.

 

[Marine6212]

Gemini located the bearing with those specific measurements. This is a non-standard, specialized bearing, most commonly used for automotive air conditioning (A/C) compressor clutches.
The bearing you're looking for has an inner race that is narrower than the outer race and is flush on one side, creating a "step" or offset on the other.
Bearing Identification
The bearing with these specifications is often referred to by its dimensions or specific part numbers rather than a standard series name (like 6203).
* Inner Diameter (ID): 17 mm
* Outer Diameter (OD): 40 mm
* Outer Race Width: 13 mm
* Inner Race Width: 10 mm
* Common Application: Automotive A/C Compressor Clutch (fits various models, including Sanden compressors)
Common Part Numbers
When searching for this bearing, using one of the following manufacturer part numbers will yield the most accurate results.
* 174013-2RS
* SC03A36LLH1 (NSK)
Where to Find It
You can typically purchase this bearing from specialized suppliers.
* Online Bearing Stores: Websites like VXB Bearings, Accurate Bearings, or other industrial suppliers often carry it if you search by the part numbers above.
* Automotive Parts Retailers: Stores like NAPA, AutoZone, or O'Reilly may stock it as an A/C clutch bearing. You may need to provide your vehicle information or the compressor model number.
* E-commerce Sites: Amazon and eBay are good sources if you search for "17x40x13/10 bearing" or "A/C Clutch Bearing 17x40".

 

[Trooper4]

Gemini located the bearing with those specific measurements. This is a non-standard, specialized bearing, most commonly used for automotive air conditioning (A/C) compressor clutches.
The bearing you're looking for has an inner race that is narrower than the outer race and is flush on one side, creating a "step" or offset on the other.
Bearing Identification
The bearing with these specifications is often referred to by its dimensions or specific part numbers rather than a standard series name (like 6203).
* Inner Diameter (ID): 17 mm
* Outer Diameter (OD): 40 mm
* Outer Race Width: 13 mm
* Inner Race Width: 10 mm
* Common Application: Automotive A/C Compressor Clutch (fits various models, including Sanden compressors)
Common Part Numbers
When searching for this bearing, using one of the following manufacturer part numbers will yield the most accurate results.
* 174013-2RS
* SC03A36LLH1 (NSK)
Where to Find It
You can typically purchase this bearing from specialized suppliers.
* Online Bearing Stores: Websites like VXB Bearings, Accurate Bearings, or other industrial suppliers often carry it if you search by the part numbers above.
* Automotive Parts Retailers: Stores like NAPA, AutoZone, or O'Reilly may stock it as an A/C clutch bearing. You may need to provide your vehicle information or the compressor model number.
* E-commerce Sites: Amazon and eBay are good sources if you search for "17x40x13/10 bearing" or "A/C Clutch Bearing 17x40".

Thanks for the info. It is strange that several different bearings are used in different units. Might have something with she superseded numbers.
I am assuming that the step is for the snap ring.

 

[Slinder91]

So this is hilarious, it’s not a special bearing.. it is the 6003-2RSH bearing. After a closer look, what had happened was the inside sleeve that was supposed to stay with the housing was frozen onto the bearing. Once I had it off, it just had to be tapped back into the housing. I tried to still get the pulley off but don’t want to damage it and really be screwed. Put it all back together and it’s quiet . Before hand the thing was screaming in agony . Funny enough how the bearing looked in the sleeve when it was out it looked like it was all one complete piece and even a couple of bearing shops didn’t catch it and thought it was a special bearing

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[oe542bob]

So this is hilarious, it’s not a special bearing.. it is the 6003-2RSH bearing. After a closer look, what had happened was the inside sleeve that was supposed to stay with the housing was frozen onto the bearing. Once I had it off, it just had to be tapped back into the housing. I tried to still get the pulley off but don’t want to damage it and really be screwed. Put it all back together and it’s quiet . Before hand the thing was screaming in agony . Funny enough how the bearing looked in the sleeve when it was out it looked like it was all one complete piece and even a couple of bearing shops didn’t catch it and thought it was a special bearing

Wow, nice catch. This will be useful to others who happen upon the same situation. Thanks for posting!

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[Ryanlewis515]

Install back in the truck is reverse of removal. Again, I do not know what torque requirements are for the bolts. I went by feel. 4 bolts on the front of the MGU and one on the drivers side. Then connect the 48V connection, take caution as it is LIVE, followed by connecting the harness on the passenger side.

Reinstall the belt and unpin the rotary belt tensioner to release it back onto the belt. Check belt routing and alignment and you should be good. Probably make sure you have no extra parts or bolts laying around.

When I fired my truck up after rebuilding the MGU it was as if I never removed it. No lights and no more grinding noises. Everything functions as normal, but I have been disabling the auto start/stop out of caution. System is showing normal voltage and charging fine. As I mentioned above, there was damage in my MGU from the failed bearing so I do intend to have it replaced under warranty when/if parts ever arrive.

I hope this info is helpful to those of you in the same boat. If you have questions let me know and I will do my best to answer. Thanks.

Question.
I followed your steps and everything was perfect. Truck sounds great and brand new again. It was my rear bearing as well.
But as it started, the start/stop flashed and said it was off, my battery light automatically came on dropping from around 12.4V to 11.6 and lower sometimes. Also, check engine light came on(i’m assuming from the battery).
Any ideas on why this may have happened or if this happened to you?

 

[tpetty]

Question.
I followed your steps and everything was perfect. Truck sounds great and brand new again. It was my rear bearing as well.
But as it started, the start/stop flashed and said it was off, my battery light automatically came on dropping from around 12.4V to 11.6 and lower sometimes. Also, check engine light came on(i’m assuming from the battery).
Any ideas on why this may have happened or if this happened to you?

That didn't happen to me - but I've had multiple wacky electrical things happen temporarily whenever the battery dies or is disconnected. If it goes away in a day, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[MADMAC]

This is some really great information guys. THANK YOU ALL!!!! One more tip to all::: Use a Mechanics Stethoscope. You will find a bad bearing with it in a heartbeat. I have used one for years. It has also saved me tons of time and money troubleshooting Chiller pumps for my 3 800-ton chillers and all my HVAC blowers and motors and my 3 500 hp boilers. It is old school but better than using a long screwdriver, even though the screwdriver works to. I have 83k on my Ram 1500. Thank God that I have not had this failure yet!