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eTorque Bearing Replacement, Fixed Grinding Noise

I just joined the screaming MGU club at 106k miles, so no warranty. 2021, I've read all the replies and can turn a wrench, I just need to know what bearings to order, as there are quite a few recommendations and some are talking about other model years.
Thank you all for pioneering this fix.
 
Jawesome86 said:
I just joined the screaming MGU club at 106k miles, so no warranty. 2021, I've read all the replies and can turn a wrench, I just need to know what bearings to order, as there are quite a few recommendations and some are talking about other model years.
Thank you all for pioneering this fix.
Click to expand...
What year truck do you have ?
 
UpNorthEngineer said:
Like many others with the 5.7 eTorque mine started making a grinding noise. At first it sounded like an old power steering pump without fluid. Then, it progressed into a horrible bad bearing sound. All the while the dealer told me the part was backordered and that I should keep driving it (my truck is under warranty with about 25000 miles on it). Eventually the noise got so bad I told the dealer I couldn't drive it any longer as I was worried about causing other damage or short circuiting and starting a fire. Again, they nor Ram offered any solution so I took matters into my own hands. In the next few posts I will try to spell out how to remove and rebuild the eTorque unit (provided yours failed the same as mine). My truck is a '21. I have no idea if they are all the same. I also have no idea if my repair procedure will cause other damage of any other kind. The risk to attempt repair is yours. This probably voids warranty. My repair was successful and my truck runs fine with no abnormal noises. I apologize ahead of time as the following posts will likely be long. I will try to get them typed up and posted tonight or tomorrow. I joined the forum to hopefully help others that are stuck in the same crappy situation.
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Hello, great write up! My question, I can get a MGU for $1000 through Mopar Parts. Can't I just remove my electronics on top, swap to the new MGU bottom with the bearings etc, and plug everything back in? Isn't the bottom (the case) just the bearings and "alternator" mechanics, no computer or electronics in the bottom case so I am hoping I can "swap" my current computer on the new case and not need the dealer. Does that sound like it would work? Truck has 97,000 miles so no warranty anyway.
 
jag457 said:
Hello, great write up! My question, I can get a MGU for $1000 through Mopar Parts. Can't I just remove my electronics on top, swap to the new MGU bottom with the bearings etc, and plug everything back in? Isn't the bottom (the case) just the bearings and "alternator" mechanics, no computer or electronics in the bottom case so I am hoping I can "swap" my current computer on the new case and not need the dealer. Does that sound like it would work? Truck has 97,000 miles so no warranty anyway.
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Don't see why not. I have seen the MGU without the top electronics on E Bay.
 
UpNorthEngineer said:
eTorque MGu removal, 5.7hemi. There are some youtube videos that show this pretty well.
1. Most instructions say to disconnect the 12V battery lead. I did not. Up to you to risk this or not. Treat all connections as if they are LIVE.
2. There are 2 belt tensioners on the MGU belt system. One is a standard rotary style tensioner positioned clockwise under the MGU. This tensioner can be locked out with a pin or allen wrench when it is fully rotated out of the way. This one is easy. The 2nd tensioner is kind of counter clockwise to the left of the MGU and it is mounted down low. It is a straight line style hydraulic tensioner. It is a pain to release in single digit weather hopefully for those of you in a warmer climate it is easier. There is a half inch drive square hole directly under the idler pulley. I recommend a second set of hands to hold the tensioner out of the way while the belt is removed. It can be done solo (I did) but it sucks.
3. Remove the belt once tension is off. This is still not much fun in the cold (belt shrinkage maybe). In my case, I loosened the MGU mounting bolts to give a little bit more slack in the belt to remove it.
4. With the belt off I went after the electrical connections. There is a harness on the top passenger side of the MGU electronics module. This has a little clip the is pulled towards the passenger side to release the lock. This is a tricky harness, but be patient and it will unclip. Then undo the 48V main power cable on the driver side of the module. Use a fine blade screwdriver to pop the cover open on this connection. Then I believe it was a 10mm bolt to release the terminal off the stud. I have every reason to believe this connection is LIVE. DO NOT touch any grounded metal points while working on this terminal. Make sure this 48V wire is put off to the side in a way that cannot short out.
5. There are 5 bolts that hold the MGU on (pretty sure its five lol). 4 on the front and one on the divers side. That 5th bolt on the drivers side is not much fun due to the fuel injection wire harness guide in the way. I snipped the zip tie holding that harness in place to get a little more play to sneak a socket under.
6. With all wires, belt, and bolts removed the MGU can be removed. Mine needed a little persuasion with a dead blow hammer. Just light taps to loosen it side to side. Be careful, it and the module can be damaged. Once removed you will see the two main bolts (long ones) go into a couple nuts that are captured but allowed to move. These pinch the bracket thus requiring the dead blow. I recommend that after removal you thread the bolts back into these nuts and give each a good hit with a hammer to drive that nut out very slightly. This will make install easier because you will have a bit of clearance. They tighten back up when you torque down the bolts on reinstall.
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I am trying to do this and I just cannot get the unit off. Anyone have additional tips?
 
DocLeeOnKeyz said:
I am trying to do this and I just cannot get the unit off. Anyone have additional tips?
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Make sure you get the 5th bolt that is hidden behind the black support bracket. we sat and banged on mine for a while before we found it hidden behind the wire loom. then she popped right off.
 
Joined up just to say how much I appreciate this thread and the work by UpNorthEngineer.
Me and my buddies got the job done in about 3 hours on a saturday night. Probably would've been 2 hours if they didnt drop a bolt in the crossmember, twice!!!

3 hours, Less than $20 for the bearing, a 12 pack, and $50 worth of victory Taco Bell we got it handled. Can't say thank you enough!
 
Can anyone verify this is the correct positioning for the new bearing? The original was in pieces, seen off to the side, and I am definitely not an expert of any kind here.
Thank you,
 

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Jawesome86 said:
Can anyone verify this is the correct positioning for the new bearing? The original was in pieces, seen off to the side, and I am definitely not an expert of any kind here.
Thank you,
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These are from UpNotrhEngineer before he changed out the bearing showing the original location



1759781687341.png
 
Jawesome86 said:
Can anyone verify this is the correct positioning for the new bearing? The original was in pieces, seen off to the side, and I am definitely not an expert of any kind here.
Thank you,
Click to expand...
This is how mine was positioned before I replaced it - 2020 Ram. Couldn't get the front bearing out and ran out of time but I'll try again next weekend.
 

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Replaced the rear bearing, unable to get the front out. We reinstalled the alternator today, fired it up, and no more banging bearing noise..... but there is a whining sound coming from the front, possibly the front bearing. Going to order a new unit entirely.
 
 
Jawesome86 said:
Can anyone verify this is the correct positioning for the new bearing? The original was in pieces, seen off to the side, and I am definitely not an expert of any kind here.
Thank you,
Click to expand...

You’ll know when the rear bearing is seated all the way on the shaft when you can get the snap ring on


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
In quite a dilemma. We swapped the front rear bearing and reinstalled the unit as we were unable to get to the front bearing. The grinding sound was gone, replaced by more of a whine. We believe the front bearing is the culprit.
I ordered a new MGU from mopar, but just received an email that they are backordered as well with no eta.
Anyone have any idea what I can do? This is my only vehicle and I need to get to work.
 
Jawesome86 said:
In quite a dilemma. We swapped the front rear bearing and reinstalled the unit as we were unable to get to the front bearing. The grinding sound was gone, replaced by more of a whine. We believe the front bearing is the culprit.
I ordered a new MGU from mopar, but just received an email that they are backordered as well with no eta.
Anyone have any idea what I can do? This is my only vehicle and I need to get to work.
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eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3362243742...1K7FYK012YZNC5YXVQAKSEZ7A&hash=item2fc1f83d41
 
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Just to confirm, those of you having this issue, are you also having a voltage drop in addition to the grinding noise?
I'm about to now go through the process of fixing the bearing which should obviously fix the noise, but I'm also having a voltage drop issue.
I'm guessing those are related instead of having two E-Toque alternator problems that are unrelated.

Edit: I see RyanLewis515 commented a page back. I have this issue right now with the damaged MGU. My voltage drops to 11.5 immediately, and has continues to drop if I try to drive the truck. (Which I have not done in a while now)
 
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