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I’ve already removed my air dams, looking under there it seems there are numerous places to mount to as long as the pitch is right. My thoughts were to aligns. Few points and install rivnuts.
Is there a price to purchase kind of like the other person you quoted that for both?
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Is the front skid (the one attached to the bumper) also for sale separately, and would it fit a non-rebel DT OEM bumper with or without minor modifications to fit?
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Shifts & Grins TRX tow hook adapter
Mopar TRX Tow hooks
Shifts & Grins Tow Hook Light pot bracket
Diode Dynamic SSC1 Pro light pod
Currently red backlight wired to running lights, not sure if I want to re-wire as brake lights or turn lights. I like how they slightly illuminate the tow hooks as...
No one mentioned that those flares are plastic, and not metal, so it can't be rust from the inside out?
100% iron fallout. Use a iron fallout remover. It happens on all cars, just more noticeable on lighter colored cars because of the contrast.
With spacers (0 offset originally)
18x9 -7 up front
18x9 -11 rear
Rim itself sits flush with the oem fender flares, but I hadn't considered that 35's are wider than the rim itself, and so theres probably a 1/2" or so tire poke, roughly the radius'd area of the tire. Minimal splash along the...
There becomes a point where one should just give up on a trade skill. This never should have been sold to you as a professional service.
My whole car is PPF'd as well.
You can use a Y harness like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/131330539877 as to retain your factory harness intact and just cut up the new Y harness.
Here's how I did my lighting a while back, minus the Y harness which I eventually added after adding aux reverse lights.
To get your offset from +19 to 0, you would need a 19mm spacer (more appropriately called an adapter). Probably easier to find a 20mm, which would put you at -1 offset. These are millimeter measurements. 25.4mm = 1 inch
Zero offset means that the mounting point is directly center of the wheel...
Pick your subs
then pick your amp
then build the box to fit the subs
you should have at least close to the recommend RMS wattage that the subwoofers recommend at the appropriate resistance. More available power is better for headroom, though not necessary if you have a efficient amp. Class D...
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