What did you do to your Ram today???

[CHeYeNNe71]

Thank you for the description!
So I'm under the truck looking at what you described The oil filter is 3 feet above my head and I can barely see it with all the interference that will love catching some oil and the drain plug is pointing at the sway bar.
Do engineers even wonder why mechs hate them?
I'm not a big guy and I had all kinds of trouble crawling under the front due to the plastic air dam or whatever it is on the bottom of the bumper.
Good thing I'm retired and don't put much mileage on the thing, so oil changes will be only once or twice a year.
What do y'all think of the oil filter relocation kit that I've read about, here?
Is it worth the cost, effort and addition of more joints in the system?

I'll be installing it during my next oil change. I think it's worth the 1 time hassle to install over the money and time savings, plus clean up in the future.

I wish they all had like my old Ford Expedition, had right behind the bumper on driver side, reach under and change.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Thank you for the description!
So I'm under the truck looking at what you described The oil filter is 3 feet above my head and I can barely see it with all the interference that will love catching some oil and the drain plug is pointing at the sway bar.
Do engineers even wonder why mechs hate them?
I'm not a big guy and I had all kinds of trouble crawling under the front due to the plastic air dam or whatever it is on the bottom of the bumper.
Good thing I'm retired and don't put much mileage on the thing, so oil changes will be only once or twice a year.
What do y'all think of the oil filter relocation kit that I've read about, here?
Is it worth the cost, effort and addition of more joints in the system?

They would have had to redesign the block to change oil filter location. When the Hemi was designed and placed in a Ram, there wasn't the same issue.

 

[805myth1]

Changed out the 8.4” radio in my big horn to a Pioneer DMH-WT5000. I was able to retain the steering wheel controls but no chimes or backup camera. The backup camera replacement is on the way and fits in the stock location.

 

[boogielander]

new tool acquired and brought home with the truck:

Wasn't planning to mess with 3D printing until I found out a MOLLE backer plate that I designed (1x0.75x0.25") will cost me $210/ piece to be made with CNC aluminum... and waiting for prototypes for other aluminum parts takes longer and more $$ than expected.

Also new filter time. Both filters are just about a year old. I keep a stack of these new filters in my garage lol so I don't feel bad for swapping them out annually. No, the blue one is not Mahle, it's a Bosche HEPA.

This is how much dust came off the engine filter. And I also counted 10 dead bees and 1 dead butterfly in the airbox.

 

[SteddyRam]

What trailer camera do you have?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SteddyRam]

What trailer camera do you have?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is all explained in the link

S

Thread '2025 RAM trailer camera DRVM'

Mar 5, 2026

I've developed a solution that enables me to view my trailer camera image through my digital rear view mirror (DRVM) in my Australian delivered 2025 RAM 1500 Hurricane HO Limited.

Achieving this required:
1. Replacing the factory single-camera input DRVM (68594726AA) with a genuine dual-camera input DRVM (68594723AA)
2. Sourcing a genuine rear-view vehicle camera to use as a trailer camera (68448640AA)
3. Designing a custom camera housing
4. Selecting the correct cable type to suit the extended cable run length from the DRVM to the trailer camera
5. Designing a custom trailer...

• SteddyRam
• digital mirror digital rear vision mirror drvm rear vision mirror trailer camera
• Replies: 2
• Forum: 5th Gen General Discussion

• 

 

[KINGFUROOK]

Trying to figure out a simple, minimalist rack for the road bike without removing tonneau cover.

 

[HemiDude]

Thank you for the description!
So I'm under the truck looking at what you described The oil filter is 3 feet above my head and I can barely see it with all the interference that will love catching some oil and the drain plug is pointing at the sway bar.
Do engineers even wonder why mechs hate them?
I'm not a big guy and I had all kinds of trouble crawling under the front due to the plastic air dam or whatever it is on the bottom of the bumper.
Good thing I'm retired and don't put much mileage on the thing, so oil changes will be only once or twice a year.
What do y'all think of the oil filter relocation kit that I've read about, here?
Is it worth the cost, effort and addition of more joints in the system?

Agree, that drain plug location is a little silly. I bought a Fumoto valve that I just pop a clear tube onto when I drain the oil so I have remedied that issue. I thought about the oil filter relocation, but I make it a point to rotate my tires every time I change the oil so I’m going to have itjacked up anyway

 

[grimreefer]

Which Fumoto valve is more convenient for our Hemis? Long nipple, short nipple, 90 degree elbow, or the original?

Fumoto for Ram

Anyone use the Valvomax? I like that it's capped.

 

[Grape_Ape]

Which Fumoto valve is more convenient for our Hemis? Long nipple, short nipple, 90 degree elbow, or the original?

Fumoto for Ram

Anyone use the Valvomax? I like that it's capped.

I use this one on my vehicles.

F106SX: Position Adjustable Oil Drain Valve with M14-1.5

The new Fumoto Fumoto® SX-series can be rotated 360° when it is installed, allowing you to choose the position and the oil flow direction for a smaller profile and easier access for maximum protection and further convenience oil drainage.

www.fumotousa.com

I can confidently say I have put hundreds of thousands of miles on vehicles with fumoto w/ zero issue. My truck has had one on it for at least 70,000 miles. I have a mazda 3 that has had one on it for 150,000+ miles. Add in another 40-60k accross a Pacifica as well.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

I use this one on my vehicles.

F106SX: Position Adjustable Oil Drain Valve with M14-1.5

The new Fumoto Fumoto® SX-series can be rotated 360° when it is installed, allowing you to choose the position and the oil flow direction for a smaller profile and easier access for maximum protection and further convenience oil drainage.

www.fumotousa.com

I can confidently say I have put hundreds of thousands of miles on vehicles with fumoto w/ zero issue. My truck has had one on it for at least 70,000 miles. I have a mazda 3 that has had one on it for 150,000+ miles. Add in another 40-60k accross a Pacifica as well.

I've always wanted to try one but in my head I think the unclean oil would gather there. Zero evidence to make that claim.

 

[Grape_Ape]

I've always wanted to try one but in my head I think the unclean oil would gather there. Zero evidence to make that claim.

I think it's such a low percentage volume wise that it's of negligible difference. I feel comfortable with that coupled with the fact that I do early intervals (vs the manual) and that I use high quality oil filters.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

new tool acquired and brought home with the truck:
View attachment 212993
Wasn't planning to mess with 3D printing until I found out a MOLLE backer plate that I designed (1x0.75x0.25") will cost me $210/ piece to be made with CNC aluminum... and waiting for prototypes for other aluminum parts takes longer and more $$ than expected.
View attachment 212994
Also new filter time. Both filters are just about a year old. I keep a stack of these new filters in my garage lol so I don't feel bad for swapping them out annually. No, the blue one is not Mahle, it's a Bosche HEPA.
View attachment 212995
This is how much dust came off the engine filter. And I also counted 10 dead bees and 1 dead butterfly in the airbox.

You should probably change every six month if you play in a sandbox that much.
I think I saw the Bosh brand was the most restrictive which typically means the best filtration. I took mine completely out for 2 months last summer.
Mahle = BMW

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

I think it's such a low percentage volume wise that it's of negligible difference. I feel comfortable with that coupled with the fact that I do early intervals (vs the manual) and that I use high quality oil filters.

I don't doubt my theory is most likely wrong. When I change fluid I typically let it drain overnight or longer then push some clean fluid before plugging it up.
What brand oil filter do you typically use? I've been just using Mopar replacements. I think I saw a special Mopar Hell Cat filter but I don't think they fit ours?

 

[Grape_Ape]

I don't doubt my theory is most likely wrong. When I change fluid I typically let it drain overnight or longer then push some clean fluid before plugging it up.
What brand oil filter do you typically use? I've been just using Mopar replacements. I think I saw a special Mopar Hell Cat filter but I don't think they fit ours?

I usually just use a Fram Ultra or a Mobil 1 filter. I've spent entirely too much time on the Bob is the Oil Guy forums. They say the Ultra is one of the better ones and they're readily available to me. The Mopar one is good as well. I believe the larger ones will fit though.

 

[boogielander]

You should probably change every six month if you play in a sandbox that much.
I think I saw the Bosh brand was the most restrictive which typically means the best filtration. I took mine completely out for 2 months last summer.
Mahle = BMW

i am actually considering doing engine air filter every 6 months... god damn i wish AEV would make some snorkel kit for us so I can get cleaner air.

yeap shop ordered the Mahle one for me for next to $0 so i won't complain hahahaha but I do have a stack of Bosche HEPA ones in the garage.

 

[boogielander]

Well few progress today.

The new version MOLLE Panel received and test fitted. Compare to the 6x6 universal panel, the Ram truck fitment adds another 2.5 column of MOLLE slots.
Bracket is trimmed down to the minimum to not intrude MOLLE slots, but there is still a bit of overlapping due to manufacturing constraints.

Plenty of clearance between the panel and the console surface, enough to fit in an open end wrench.
Install can be a bit difficult, as I am using nylon insert nuts to prevent vibration from high speed runs knocking the nuts loose. I may switch over to serrated nut plus threadlocker just to make life easier.

Another thing I am doing is building an adapter plate for wireless charger for the stock phone location. Allow me to explain:

If I have to describe what stock wireless charger is... all I can say is it sucks and outdated. It uses 2019 wireless charging protocol and technology, so it is very slow. When using your phone for navigation and playing music, it produces a lot of heat and minimal charging capability. In the past 10 years, we've seen wireless charging speed go from 5W (barely enough) to current 15-30w (3-6 times faster), and the technology is evolving.
What is precisely why I didn't pick the stock wireless charger when I ordered the truck: charging technology evolve every few years, and I'd like to be able to update my charger accordingly.

Previously (well, currently), I am attaching a wireless charger to the rubber backing pad on the truck side via 3M VHB and velcro so I can swap the charger out easily. However, 3M VHB does not bond to rubber well, especially when the ambient temperature gets hot. During summer, I always come back to the truck to find my charger not properly seated due to VHB not sticking.

To remedy that, an adapter is developed. Goal is to stick the VHB to the adapter plate to prevent failure from ambient heat, while still have enough clearance for charger and phone.

Currently, I am using an Anker wireless charging puck that has a contoured back. It is thicker than the charging pad I was using before (switched it out due to outdated protocol), and attached to the 110v brick plugged into the stock inverter.

And it works well!
Just a few things that I need to improve and this will be good to go, primarily the bend distance, grip, and length.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Little bit of tinkering/general maintenance. Rinsed dust/dirt from under the hood with my DI water setup.

Reconnected the @CZmenghe_Official LEad hood badges after applying silicone sealant to connectors. Last week I had an issue with hyper flash left turn signal and message on dash saying turn signal is out. But all lights were flashing. U hooked the hood badge connectors and found water inside one side. Blew out the connectors and left unhooked overnight in my heated garage to dry. Plugged headlight back in without the hood badge and everything was working again. Have already messaged CZmenghe and they have sent a message to engineers to alert them to issue.

Also, finally installed the passenger side mirror visor. Have had the drivers side done since last warm day in January. Spray painted them satin black and it's a real close match to factory non-painted mirrors. Better than the gloss black they come. Or you can get them in fake carbon fiber print. But I knew so was going to paint them anyways.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I don't doubt my theory is most likely wrong. When I change fluid I typically let it drain overnight or longer then push some clean fluid before plugging it up.
What brand oil filter do you typically use? I've been just using Mopar replacements. I think I saw a special Mopar Hell Cat filter but I don't think they fit ours?

The Mopar SRT filter fits just a little tighter than factory size. I actually use the Wix branded equivalent as it's half the price of the Mopar filter, depending on where you get it.

 

[KennyP]

Installed my red start button and new Limited emblems on the hood. I know some folks don’t like adding, and would rather de-badge their trucks, but since the night edition Limited didn’t get the emblem on the side molding like others did, I added my own in a unique place. I’ll keep it like this for a while and see if I like it or not. Feel free to give y’all’s opinion.