eTorque Bearing Replacement, Fixed Grinding Noise

[kwimm1991]

UpNorthEngineer thank you! I'm currently trying this. After I got the casings apart I noticed my rear bearing has a snap ring. You don't mention this. Curious if everyone's had this ring and if it's even the same bearing?

 

[Duece670]

Mine did have the snap ring as well. Same process that he posted otherwise.

 

[sbcncsu]

Cruzer60​

got the #6661K86 for the rear
For the front the #4668K327

That front bearing is not sealed and will be open to the environment.
6661K126 should be the sealed version' in precision, ABEC-3 grade.
I'm wondering if a set of angular contact bearings like the 7305-2RS (6680K47) would be tougher and more appropriate for the loading?

Just thinking out loud here...

 

[Lumel187]

Great info and thanks very much for sharing. After about a month of starting to hear some bearing whine, my MGU is now dead with no charging at all. So I'm probably past just a simple bearing replacement and I've got a dead $60k truck.

FWIW, I came across a reddit post showing the bearings as 6003 and 6305. The 6003 would confirm what @UpNorthEngineer measured. Not sure on that front bearing but I'm passing the info along in case it helps anyone.

Hey would you mind sharing that post so I could read through it?

 

[kwimm1991]

Before pressing the new rear bearing in i placed it in the casing and it seems to drop in pretty easy. What prevents the bearing from spinning inside the casing once its in?

 

[tpetty]

Thanks for the information & write up. I'm going to order that rear bearing and give this a shot.

 

[1733gmg]

Currently having the same issue with my etorque. Did any of you replace the front bearing of so how did you get the front pulley off

 

[Trooper4]

Read back in the posts. IT WORKS!!!

 

[tpetty]

Ordered the bearing, had my mechanic install it. He showed me the old rear bearing. It was shot. Truck now works great! thanks again.

 

[chuckkortuem]

UpNorthEngineer thank you! I'm currently trying this. After I got the casings apart I noticed my rear bearing has a snap ring. You don't mention this. Curious if everyone's had this ring and if it's even the same bearing?

Mine has a snap ring just like yours. I took the picture on my post before I put it back on. I assume UpNorthEngineer’s had fallen/ broken off due to the condition of his bearing.

 

[Rogue 66]

Well, I guess I'm joining the ranks of being dissappointed in the eTorque failing. I had noticed it running differently, with a kinda shudder, and the power would slightly hesitate. I suppose that was the mgu assisting the engine? This week the bells started going off sporadically and then the check engine light came on. took it to the dealer and they confirmed it is the MGU and quoted $2400 to replace it. Since I'm sitting at 89,438 miles, it is no longer under warranty.

I have a 2019 Ram 1500 with the 3.6 eTorque... Is the MGU the same as the 5.7??

 

[Ellisstrong]

Well, I guess I'm joining the ranks of being dissappointed in the eTorque failing. I had noticed it running differently, with a kinda shudder, and the power would slightly hesitate. I suppose that was the mgu assisting the engine? This week the bells started going off sporadically and then the check engine light came on. took it to the dealer and they confirmed it is the MGU and quoted $2400 to replace it. Since I'm sitting at 89,438 miles, it is no longer under warranty.

I have a 2019 Ram 1500 with the 3.6 eTorque... Is the MGU the same as the 5.7??

I just got mine back two days ago. My total was like 2900 and that’s with a tensioner that needed to be replaced and new belt. I was at about the exact same mileage as you. I’m not sure if the etorque is the same. They look the same from what I’ve saw.

 

[tpetty]

I just ordered a new Ram limited. I wish I could get the straight Hemi, but that's not possible. While I'd preferably avoid the potential complexity of turbos, I'm not tolerating the Etorque thing again, so HO V6 it is!

 

[Farachie]

I just started this process yesterday and the rear bearing was shot and the front bearing isn't far behind. The problem is, I can't get the dang front pulley off to save my life! I've tried 3 different pullers and a shop press with no luck. I've heated it as much as I thought was smart and I've tried pressing the shaft out from the top but didn't go too far because I am worried about cracking the front case. Does anyone have any tricks at all for getting the pulley off without destroying it?

 

[Farachie]

I just started this process yesterday and the rear bearing was shot and the front bearing isn't far behind. The problem is, I can't get the dang front pulley off to save my life! I've tried 3 different pullers and a shop press with no luck. I've heated it as much as I thought was smart and I've tried pressing the shaft out from the top but didn't go too far because I am worried about cracking the front case. Does anyone have any tricks at all for getting the pulley off without destroying it?

Ok. Ill answer my own question.... First off, you can't press the shaft through the pulley from the front side. The front bearing is held in with a snap ring so that will never work and you will damage the front housing if you try it. The shaft and pulley are coned and they mate together with an expansion fit. That means the bond is extremely strong but when it breaks, it will give way all at once. I got the beefiest pulley puller that I could find. I used the Icon Master Puller Set with the thickest arms i could fit, cranked down the arm stabilization bar, and used an impact until the arms were bending and about to break. Then I heated the pully with a torch to get it fairly hot and then smacked the puller jacking stud with a hammer. The pulley jumped off the shaft and flew about 3 feet towards my face. And that, my friends, is how I got the pulley off the stupid MGU.

So, it is possible to remove the pulley and change the front bearing. It isn't easy and it takes some decent tools and a lot of work, at least mine did. I hope anyone trying this repair has better luck and an easier time than I did.

One last thought, if you are trying for a more permanent repair, look into replacement bearings that are electrically shielded and have a high RPM rating. Most of the bearings listed in this thread cap out in the 7500-12000 RPM range. The MGU can spin faster than that at high RPM due to the pulley size difference between the crank pulley and MGU pulley. I found a rear bearing that is electrically shielded and rated up to 20,000 RPM. It is a #1389N19 at McMaster-Carr. I'm still looking for a suitable front bearing.

 

[Slinder91]

Ok. Ill answer my own question.... First off, you can't press the shaft through the pulley from the front side. The front bearing is held in with a snap ring so that will never work and you will damage the front housing if you try it. The shaft and pulley are coned and they mate together with an expansion fit. That means the bond is extremely strong but when it breaks, it will give way all at once. I got the beefiest pulley puller that I could find. I used the Icon Master Puller Set with the thickest arms i could fit, cranked down the arm stabilization bar, and used an impact until the arms were bending and about to break. Then I heated the pully with a torch to get it fairly hot and then smacked the puller jacking stud with a hammer. The pulley jumped off the shaft and flew about 3 feet towards my face. And that, my friends, is how I got the pulley off the stupid MGU.

So, it is possible to remove the pulley and change the front bearing. It isn't easy and it takes some decent tools and a lot of work, at least mine did. I hope anyone trying this repair has better luck and an easier time than I did.

One last thought, if you are trying for a more permanent repair, look into replacement bearings that are electrically shielded and have a high RPM rating. Most of the bearings listed in this thread cap out in the 7500-12000 RPM range. The MGU can spin faster than that at high RPM due to the pulley size difference between the crank pulley and MGU pulley. I found a rear bearing that is electrically shielded and rated up to 20,000 RPM. It is a #1389N19 at McMaster-Carr. I'm still looking for a suitable front bearing.

I just took mine apart and have both front and rear bearings, I don’t think it’ll be doable to take that pulley off without damaging something. You don’t even have enough room to grab the pulley on the backside of it

 

[Slinder91]

I just took mine apart and have both front and rear bearings, I don’t think it’ll be doable to take that pulley off without damaging something. You don’t even have enough room to grab the pulley on the backside of it

Also, the part numbers everyone is referring to for the rear bearing did not match mine, I have a 2019 5.7, it has a snap ring and the bearing someone posted as being
# 6661K86 is incorrect as that bearing is much smaller than the one in the rear. Also, others have mentioned #6203-2RS as working. I have this bearing currently on and the inside of the bearing does not sit far enough down to use the c clip.

 

[Trooper4]

The rotational speed of the 5.7L HEMI eTorque motor-generator at an engine speed of 5,000 RPM is 13,900 RPM. This is calculated based on the pulley ratio that connects the engine's crankshaft to the motor-generator.

 

[Trooper4]

Ok. Ill answer my own question.... First off, you can't press the shaft through the pulley from the front side. The front bearing is held in with a snap ring so that will never work and you will damage the front housing if you try it. The shaft and pulley are coned and they mate together with an expansion fit. That means the bond is extremely strong but when it breaks, it will give way all at once. I got the beefiest pulley puller that I could find. I used the Icon Master Puller Set with the thickest arms i could fit, cranked down the arm stabilization bar, and used an impact until the arms were bending and about to break. Then I heated the pully with a torch to get it fairly hot and then smacked the puller jacking stud with a hammer. The pulley jumped off the shaft and flew about 3 feet towards my face. And that, my friends, is how I got the pulley off the stupid MGU.

So, it is possible to remove the pulley and change the front bearing. It isn't easy and it takes some decent tools and a lot of work, at least mine did. I hope anyone trying this repair has better luck and an easier time than I did.

One last thought, if you are trying for a more permanent repair, look into replacement bearings that are electrically shielded and have a high RPM rating. Most of the bearings listed in this thread cap out in the 7500-12000 RPM range. The MGU can spin faster than that at high RPM due to the pulley size difference between the crank pulley and MGU pulley. I found a rear bearing that is electrically shielded and rated up to 20,000 RPM. It is a #1389N19 at McMaster-Carr. I'm still looking for a suitable front bearing.

What year ram ant what engine?

 

[Farachie]

What year ram ant what engine?

2021 Ram 1500 5.7.. I went with a 6305-2z/c3gjn bearing for the front but I'm not sure if it will last. Lets hope.