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What did you do to your Ram today???

It is not difficult if you are ok with some wiring. You have to extend the wires from the existing rotary shifter down to the console connector. There is an entire thread here about this.


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I searched before I posted about it and just found a bunch of info on switching out the rebel updated to limited etc. I'll do another search again, but if you can help in anyway pointing me in the right direction I would be grateful. Is $300 a good price? Thank you for replying and kinda lost hope in with no responses.
 
Tow mirror question... I drive a 2025 Tungsten and was wondering if anyone has replaced just the mirror glass to something that doesn't suck? The glass, on the passenger side especially, is absolutely awful. I don't know if it's just too "zoomed in" or what, but the field of view it provides is literally no different or better than my review mirror. The convex mirror is absolutely fine but the "main" part of the mirror is absolutely useless. Just wondering if anyone has replaced that with an aftermarket mirror that is normal.

If it's just that part you should be able to get a replacement version I assume. Unfortunately for those of us without the tow mirrors just to get that convexed portion we have to replace the entire housing, so it could be the same way.

I searched before I posted about it and just found a bunch of info on switching out the rebel updated to limited etc. I'll do another search again, but if you can help in anyway pointing me in the right direction I would be grateful. Is $300 a good price? Thank you for replying and kinda lost hope in with no responses.

My vote is definitely do this. That looks like such a cool project and for that price I'd say worth it. If it doesn't work, ebay it.
 
I searched before I posted about it and just found a bunch of info on switching out the rebel updated to limited etc. I'll do another search again, but if you can help in anyway pointing me in the right direction I would be grateful. Is $300 a good price? Thank you for replying and kinda lost hope in with no responses.

TRX Shifter swap

Definitely worth the price as it looks like it is complete. I did this swap last year. Would never go back to the rotary shifter. You do give up some console space, but there is too much there anyway IMO. I don’t store things in my vehicles. My firearm still fits in the TRX console and the sliding cupholder was never something I was fond of anyway. The only thing I haven’t done yet is to get the wireless charging pad to work. Not all that important to me. But it is simply a canbus connection that is missing in my Bighorn body harness.


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Yea they will get you good if you have no knowledge of wrenching :ROFLMAO:

basically all maintenance, they suggested i did and told the advisor or tech (desk guy). he looked back at me suspiciously but whatever :sneaky::rolleyes:

very soon will be breaks and refresh on brake fluid.

i changed my plugs at 90k still had oem ones and seemed to be fine i just did it as "preventative maintenance."
What I have done all my life with brake fluid, is I buy big container of brake fluid. Every 2 years I suck out fluid in reservoir, but still keep it above level to not get air, fill, and every couple days, do it until bottle is empty. Never done a brake flush in any vehicle and I am almost 59. Never had any brake issues, other than replacing rotors/pads. I think 40k is too soon for brake flush unless you tow a lot. I do know from previous and current 5.7s and other vehicles, adding a double dose of good fuel injector cleaner in gas does make noticable difference. I use gumount/regane/etc with p.e.a, if says use 8oz for 10 gallons I use double, at same time I add Lucas fuel system cleaner at same time. I feel the Lucas adds lubrication and the pea cleaner opens up clogs in injectors. When tank hits about time to fill up again I can feel trucks smoother and had better power. The 5.7 is only engine I really can feel a big difference(have had 4, 2 Ram trucks, 1 dodge durango, 300) when using the cleaners, its noticable.
 
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What I have done all my life with brake fluid, is I buy big container of brake fluid. Every 2 years I suck out fluid in reservoir, but still keep it above level to not get air, fill, and every couple days, do it until bottle is empty. Never done a brake flush in any vehicle and I am almost 59. Never had any brake issues, other than replacing rotors/pads. I think 40k is too soon for brake flush unless you tow a lot.
 
Seeing that you are older than me I'm going with your plan. I'm at 64k and its not as clean as I would prefer
It is not difficult if you are ok with some wiring. You have to extend the wires from the existing rotary shifter down to the console connector. There is an entire thread here about this.


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I've got him down to $200 but he claims it was from a 4th gen and was trimmed? Any thoughts
 
What I have done all my life with brake fluid, is I buy big container of brake fluid. Every 2 years I suck out fluid in reservoir, but still keep it above level to not get air, fill, and every couple days, do it until bottle is empty. Never done a brake flush in any vehicle and I am almost 59. Never had any brake issues, other than replacing rotors/pads. I think 40k is too soon for brake flush unless you tow a lot. I do know from previous and current 5.7s and other vehicles, adding a double dose of good fuel injector cleaner in gas does make noticable difference. I use gumount/regane/etc with p.e.a, if says use 8oz for 10 gallons I use double, at same time I add Lucas fuel system cleaner at same time. I feel the Lucas adds lubrication and the pea cleaner opens up clogs in injectors. When tank hits about time to fill up again I can feel trucks smoother and had better power. The 5.7 is only engine I really can feel a big difference(have had 4, 2 Ram trucks, 1 dodge durango, 300) when using the cleaners, its noticable.
X that brake fluid procedure doesn't get all the old fluid out. I'd bet money that even after all that, the fluid in the calipers is still dirty old fluid. And that's the most important part to get fresh fluid to
 
Seeing that you are older than me I'm going with your plan. I'm at 64k and its not as clean as I would prefer

I've got him down to $200 but he claims it was from a 4th gen and was trimmed? Any thoughts

Well, depending on what was trimmed, you can probably use your existing console to combine them both into an unadulterated version


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Incase anyone was curious

The top strut mount plate bolt is an M10-1.5 and THEYRE FRIGGAN IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND JUST THE GOT DANG BOLT.

Super excited about two day shipping a whole new upper plate cause i applied one too many ogga duggas to putting the strut back in.

View attachment 200609
RockAuto came through and got the part to me this afternoon.

Interesting enough there is a small plate…spacer…whatever it is…that i had to pop off the old one and onto the new. Took my time and worked it off. Then secured it onto the new top plate.

Got it all reassembled and the test drive felt great! IMG_5554.jpegIMG_5555.jpeg
 
FYI, PUP $20 at walmart

View attachment 200635

$28 for the 0W-20 and $20 for the 5W-20 is what I'm seeing. But I think the last time I got it (0W-20) was on sale and I got the 3 pack. I had to get the regular Platinum recently though as they wanted too much for the PUP when I was shopping. TBH, $28 still isn't bad. I still have enough for 3 oil changes though so I'll hold out. I wouldn't mind using 5W-20 either... even during winter I'm sure it'll be just fine. And if for some reason temps were below -20 I'd just hook up the block heater anyways to help it a little.

I really want to see that Valvoline restore and protect go on sale. I used that for one change so far and it was noticeably more quiet. All reports on that oil seem pretty stellar and I'm a long time PUP fan.

What sucks is I've been sitting on some 5W-30 for a couple years now and I can't even give the stuff away. Previous vehicle, asked neighbors, coworkers... no joy. Pretty surprising how many people don't even change their own oil that have the ability and space to do so.
 
Well, depending on what was trimmed, you can probably use your existing console to combine them both into an unadulterated version


1000011225.jpg
I own it now. I HAVE to stop buying stuff that I'm not currently working on. I wasn't even thinking of doing this, but that was hard to pass up.20250506_162106.jpg1000011228.jpg
 
$28 for the 0W-20 and $20 for the 5W-20 is what I'm seeing. But I think the last time I got it (0W-20) was on sale and I got the 3 pack. I had to get the regular Platinum recently though as they wanted too much for the PUP when I was shopping. TBH, $28 still isn't bad. I still have enough for 3 oil changes though so I'll hold out. I wouldn't mind using 5W-20 either... even during winter I'm sure it'll be just fine. And if for some reason temps were below -20 I'd just hook up the block heater anyways to help it a little.

I really want to see that Valvoline restore and protect go on sale. I used that for one change so far and it was noticeably more quiet. All reports on that oil seem pretty stellar and I'm a long time PUP fan.

What sucks is I've been sitting on some 5W-30 for a couple years now and I can't even give the stuff away. Previous vehicle, asked neighbors, coworkers... no joy. Pretty surprising how many people don't even change their own oil that have the ability and space to do so.

I paid $20.80 for both 5w20 and 5w30

1000006551.jpg

Had I have known Amazon was selling it for the same price in a three pack, I'd have bought two of those but when I checked this morning Amazon was still $35 a jug.
Hate going to Walmart
 
after some impact gun abuse i replaced the stock units coyote lug nuts.

Coyote Accessories 53K548 Chrome Cone Seat OE Style Lug​

 

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