Help with the ole tick tick tick

[ChadAllen]

Greetings everyone! My 2019 5.7 4wd recently started that infamous ticking. I'm trying to narrow down the source before I commit to tearing things apart. The only Ram dealer in town is a piece of work and I'm out of warranty (71k miles) so I'll be doing it myself. Any help with diagnosis would be greatly appreciated.

The tick is faint. I don't hear it while I am driving, or even sitting at a stop sign with the windows down. Only hear it when I'm walking around the front of the truck or at a drive thru where the engine echoes off the wall. It doesn't get louder or quieter at any point. It doesn't go away as the engine warms. But it's also not louder at start up. I've had a couple cars in my life with bad lifters and the ticking was always louder on initial startup until those initial rpms drop to idle as the oil first starts circulating. If anything, the tick doesn't start until that initial sequence is done and the rpm drops.

I took a stethoscope to it and I'm having a hell of a time pinpointing it. Stuck in a gap under the intake manifold Same for valve covers on both sides, heads and exhaust manifolds. Never had a point where I touched the stethoscope and said "whoa, there it is." I could hear it faintly everywhere.

No codes. Idle is smooth. Drives fine. Normal acceleration.

I change the oil when recommended, use Mopar filters and royal purple full synthetic. I know the lifters don't like idling, so I don't do that except at red lights (of course). Did everything right, so if it's the lifters I'm gonna be.....well, you know.

Any other tricks I can try? My brain is telling me maybe there is a crack in the exhaust manifold that is amplifying an otherwise normal internal tick, but I don't know. The engine is too hot right now to pull off the heat shields to check, and it's about to start pouring rain. Just thought I'd ask for help brainstorming while I wait.

Truly appreciate any help.

 

[Vulpes]

Greetings everyone! My 2019 5.7 4wd recently started that infamous ticking. I'm trying to narrow down the source before I commit to tearing things apart. The only Ram dealer in town is a piece of work and I'm out of warranty (71k miles) so I'll be doing it myself. Any help with diagnosis would be greatly appreciated.

The tick is faint. I don't hear it while I am driving, or even sitting at a stop sign with the windows down. Only hear it when I'm walking around the front of the truck or at a drive thru where the engine echoes off the wall. It doesn't get louder or quieter at any point. It doesn't go away as the engine warms. But it's also not louder at start up. I've had a couple cars in my life with bad lifters and the ticking was always louder on initial startup until those initial rpms drop to idle as the oil first starts circulating. If anything, the tick doesn't start until that initial sequence is done and the rpm drops.

I took a stethoscope to it and I'm having a hell of a time pinpointing it. Stuck in a gap under the intake manifold Same for valve covers on both sides, heads and exhaust manifolds. Never had a point where I touched the stethoscope and said "whoa, there it is." I could hear it faintly everywhere.

No codes. Idle is smooth. Drives fine. Normal acceleration.

I change the oil when recommended, use Mopar filters and royal purple full synthetic. I know the lifters don't like idling, so I don't do that except at red lights (of course). Did everything right, so if it's the lifters I'm gonna be.....well, you know.

Any other tricks I can try? My brain is telling me maybe there is a crack in the exhaust manifold that is amplifying an otherwise normal internal tick, but I don't know. The engine is too hot right now to pull off the heat shields to check, and it's about to start pouring rain. Just thought I'd ask for help brainstorming while I wait.

Truly appreciate any help.

Yeah these ticks happen. Do your manifolds have the heat shield covers on them? Because the manifolds tend to split vertically right down the middle and one can see the crack, when the heat shields are removed. It happened to my 2019, as sown in the red box in the photo below.

Anyways, I hope it's nothing, and if not nothing, then the better manifold versus the lifters.

 

[ChadAllen]

Yea, it still has the heat shields on. I was going to let the engine cool down and then go take the shield off, but now it's raining cats and dogs, so I'll have to wait till tomorrow when it dries up. I did push and pull gently on the manifold bolts i could reach with a screw driver to check if maybe a bolt broke. Those I could reach felt solid

I know some ticking is normal with a hemi, but when it's a new noise, ya know, sends alarm bells.

Really I'm trying to rule out lifters/camshaft without tearing the whole thing apart.

 

[ChadAllen]

I should add, it sounds louder under the vehicle than it does from the engine bay. I crawled under while it was running but for the life of me I couldn't pinpoint the origin.

I did add seafoam to the oil last night to see if that helped. So far no difference, but I gotta drive it a while to let the cleaner do it's thing.

 

[ChadAllen]

Yeah these ticks happen. Do your manifolds have the heat shield covers on them? Because the manifolds tend to split vertically right down the middle and one can see the crack, when the heat shields are removed. It happened to my 2019, as sown in the red box in the photo below.

Anyways, I hope it's nothing, and if not nothing, then the better manifold versus the lifters.

View attachment 182490

Out of curiosity, is this what yours sounded like with that crack?

 

[kapinallinen2]

Does sound like an exhaust leak.
My passenger side had a broken stud.

 

[silver billet]

Out of curiosity, is this what yours sounded like with that crack?

Unfortunately that doesn't sound good. I'd switch immediately to Redline 5w-30 and wait for about 1500 miles and listen again. If it helps, great, if not, then at least you crossed one option of your list for pretty cheap. Lot of guys have quieted their truck using that oil.

Royal Purple oil does not have a great reputation either. Their filters are excellent though, lot of guys use the RP 20-820 along with Redline 5w-30.

I'd also send a sample of your current oil to blackstone for analysis. They can tell you the amount of wear metals in your oil, it may not flag anything as UOA's don't catch everything, but if you see high amounts of wear then its definitely another sign.

Also the oil change interval from the indicator is far too long, I'd stick to about 5000 to 6000 miles max.

 

[silver billet]

Does sound like an exhaust leak.
My passenger side had a broken stud.

I think there is far more "air" in your sound than his. His sounds like a fork tapping on something metallic.

 

[kapinallinen2]

I think there is far more "air" in your sound than his. His sounds like a fork tapping on something metallic.

Just trying to think positive, the alternative sources are not good.

 

[cerbo]

if it s not the exhaust then put 1/2 bottle of Ceratec , just add it into oil.
Quieted the Mustang tick for many.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-379270-ceratec-oil-additive/?msclkid=3de121ed1c551f759d8c47da718d105a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20-%20New%20(2022)&utm_term=4574861735646001&utm_content=Shopping

 

[silver billet]

if it s not the exhaust then put 1/2 bottle of Ceratec , just add it into oil.
Quieted the Mustang tick for many.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-379270-ceratec-oil-additive/?msclkid=3de121ed1c551f759d8c47da718d105a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20-%20New%20(2022)&utm_term=4574861735646001&utm_content=Shopping

IIRC, Ceratec is mos2, which means it falls out of suspension from the rest of the oil and causes sludge. It's better to use Redline or HPL which have high amounts of moly in it, they use a better form of moly and it doesn't fall out of suspension.

 

[DEG]

Here's a good YouTube video from a Dodge mechanic that discusses various tick issues and gives some tips to help diagnose.

 

[ChadAllen]

UPDATE: it's still all rainy here so I haven't been able to get under there and pull the heat shields to inspect the manifolds, but now that I'm paying closer attention to the tick I've noticed it's not always consistent.

I noticed when I pulled into the driveway last night that the tick will come and go. It'll tick, then the tick will get quieter, go away completely for a second or two, then come back. I ran up to the drive thru to get breakfast this morning and I could hear it echoing off the wall of the building and it did it again. Got quieter, vanished for a couple seconds, then return. No change in RPM, idle smoothness, nothing.

Of course, by the time I got my phone to catch it doing that on video, it would stop and go back to constant ticking. Go figure.

I can't imagine a broken lifter doing that.....am I wrong thinking that would point to manifolds?

Regardless, I'm going to drop some seafoam into the oil this morning, let it run through and change the oil next weekend. Just in case.

 

[ChadAllen]

Was able to grab another video before the rain returned this afternoon. Texas weather, man. It rains, stops long enough for the driveway to dry up then hits us again. Lol.

Anyway, this vid is a cold startup. Truck has been sitting overnight. To my ears it sounds like exhaust rattling before the rpms drop and it settles into rhythmic ticking. I was hoping to catch the sound of the ticking fading and returning, but no such luck and I'm paranoid to let the truck idle too long. It did it several times last night after driving for a while. Two seconds of no tick, then returning tick.

I ordered the Blackstone kit this morning and I'm planning an oil change for next weekend. I appreciate everyone's help so far! I'll keep everyone updated

 

[ChadAllen]

UPDATE:
Finally got to pull the heat shields.

Bingo! Cracked manifold.

I've never been so happy to see cracked metal in all my life. I'm going to replace with shorty headers.....cause there's no sense going with Mopar cast iron.

Any suggestions for brand? I was looking at BBK shorty headers, but im not well versed in which brand is better than another.

Thanks gang!

 

[Vulpes]

Out of curiosity, is this what yours sounded like with that crack?

When the manifolds were cracked they sounded just like the video posted by

Just trying to think positive, the alternative sources are not good.

Do you have an engine shop you trust or a buddy that can lend a trained ear that could give you an opinion on the engine noise?

Ah, just saw your cracked manifold post! A set of JBA headers, part #1961S-3 fixed all the leaks on mine. Although I think some other folks on here had a couple weld leaks on theirs? Mine have been great.

Let us know how the engine sounds after the exhaust leak fix.

 

[PurpleRT]

I was going to say I wouldn’t assume the worst thats its a collapsed lifter until your get the heat shields off see if its a cracked manifold or broken studs.

 

[ChadAllen]

I'm going to have my dad take a look at it Tuesday when he gets back into town. He's an old time mechanic, used to work on race cars back in the day. First thing he said when he heard the same videos I posted here was "Sounds like exhaust to me, but let me look at it to be sure."

Even if he listens to it and says there's something more serious going on, the manifold is still cracked, so I'm going to have to do that job anyway. Just have to get headers ordered.

In the mean time, out of an abundance of caution, I'm going to change the oil and run a head and lifter cleaner through it, probably Lucas. Also doing a seafoam treatement on the fuel and a couple tanks of premium gas, just in case the fuel injectors are dirty and ticking.

It'll be next weekend at the earliest before I can make the repair, but I'll keep posting updates here. I appreciate everyone!

 

[Vulpes]

I'm going to have my dad take a look at it Tuesday when he gets back into town. He's an old time mechanic, used to work on race cars back in the day. First thing he said when he heard the same videos I posted here was "Sounds like exhaust to me, but let me look at it to be sure."

Even if he listens to it and says there's something more serious going on, the manifold is still cracked, so I'm going to have to do that job anyway. Just have to get headers ordered.

In the mean time, out of an abundance of caution, I'm going to change the oil and run a head and lifter cleaner through it, probably Lucas. Also doing a seafoam treatement on the fuel and a couple tanks of premium gas, just in case the fuel injectors are dirty and ticking.

It'll be next weekend at the earliest before I can make the repair, but I'll keep posting updates here. I appreciate everyone!

Sounds like a solid plan!

When you do the headers, consider doing the driver's side first, then the passenger will feel like the easiest job ever. I ended up making a couple studs to use in the really tight spots instead of header bolts. Shorty open end wrenches were also very helpful. The factory-type gasket with the heat shield has been found to seal better than header gaskets.

For such a big truck, it sure is cramped in the engine bay...

 

[ChadAllen]

Sounds like a solid plan!

When you do the headers, consider doing the driver's side first, then the passenger will feel like the easiest job ever. I ended up making a couple studs to use in the really tight spots instead of header bolts. Shorty open end wrenches were also very helpful. The factory-type gasket with the heat shield has been found to seal better than header gaskets.

For such a big truck, it sure is cramped in the engine bay...

Out of curiosity, did you have any issue with bolts being frozen, or snapping as you tried to remove them, or was that part pretty safe?

Also, do you happen to know the proper torque for those bolts? I've always been stupid paranoid about bolts on aluminum blocks.