What did you do to your Ram today???

[User_63152]

picked it up today from the dealership for the 5th time in 5 months for miss fire. They assure me they got it this time. I have little faith because they just keep replacing the same crap.
Also, while getting a light winter mix cleaned the wheels and added the red accent fuel caps.

Nice steps. I got the same ones.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

There is no way to take apart the top pole that runs across and take some inches off it?

^^^ This. I think that could work.

Yes the TRX is the same at the other DT’s in this regard.
I would think you could just trim down the middle bars a smidge - that appears to be the only difference.

Well actually, before seeing these messages I was talking to my buddy about doing this. He is a welder and fabricator so we were discussing this. I may go this route, as these bars don't pop up often around me and when they do the sellers are asking $1000-$1400 for them. A little modification and I can make it work.

So first we would need to cut off the curved ends on the part that sits on the bed rail, so that the plate sits flat on the bed rails. Then I would need to also need to see if the stack pocket bracket can be utilized, as the bed rails are not as wide on the 2500/3500 as they are on the 1500 (I guess the 1500s get wider need the cab). Failing this, I'll just have to drill holes on the inside lip of the bed and bolt the front down the same say the back is held on. No big deal there. Then we'll have to figure out how much to cut off the top pipes (probably 3in total) and cut half of that off each side to that the arch of the bar stays in the middle of the tube. Otherwise you cut off just one end and the muffler of arch will not be centered.

So it's pretty simple to do (especially when you have a friend who works in a metal shop with all the proper tools to cut this and weld it) . Just need to make sure the measurements are done, angles are check and we are good to go.

I think cutting this will change the angles slightly. As the curved bars get shorter the angle will go higher over that arch. But I don't think it will be enough to make it look bad. But going to do some test fitting and take measurements at some point and see what it will look like.

Then I'll get some textured paint and fixed up the cut bracket on the bed rail and also paint where it was cut and welded on the tubes. And if I really wanted I could get it all repowder coated or get it sprayed with line-x or something.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Just hope that cutting the bars doesn't pull the side in where they don't match up with the cab.

 

[Jeepdinger]

Just hope that cutting the bars doesn't pull the side in where they don't match up with the cab.
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@19BlueStreakSport
Before you cut anything, those collars look like the connect the tubing sections. You may be able to remove and modify the center section, then just bolt it back together. Rambar instructions also show this as part of the assembly...

https://www.moparonlineparts.com/docs/82215869.pdf

That might save you some time and effort.

 

[Nsleone]

Played with Alfa obd. Added the tail gate ajar warning and changed my drl to front turn signals. Placed another phone on sensor to keep head lights off during the night. Literally took me few mins. With the help from little research before I started. Thanks to others on here for there posts.

Never seen a bighorn DRL swap from alpha, I like it! Makes me want that programmer even more

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

@19BlueStreakSport
Before you cut anything, those collars look like the connect the tubing sections. You may be able to remove and modify the center section, then just bolt it back together. Rambar instructions also show this as part of the assembly...

https://www.moparonlineparts.com/docs/82215869.pdf

That might save you some time and effort.

Yeah the 2 center bars are bolted where the collars are. Those are just rubber collars that go over the bolt holes and then a "joiner plate" slides under the rubber and bolts together.

So both ends of the bar need to be cut on both front and back bars. The center tubes slide inside of the tubes on the side bars. So the bar can't just be cut on the ends as the have threaded holes built into them.

The bottom plate on the end rail has to be cut at the curve otherwise it will not sit flat on the bed rails.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

So here is one of the middle bars.

Picture #1 - shows the threaded bolts that goes into the threaded hole. I can't cut from the end because of the treaded hole and because the pipe needs to slide into the other bracket. So I would need to cut passed narrow part of the pipe. Cut out a section and then weld it back together. Making sure to align the curve of the pipe back correctly to the end section. So just making. Straight line to match them back up. Don't want the arch of pipe to be pointing in another directions.

Picture #2 - shows the rubber collar of the slated adjustment holes on the bars that attach to the bed rails.

Picture #3 - This is the joiner plate that slides under the rubber. It basically overlaps both pipes and "crimps" them down. Sandwiches them together.

Picture #4 - Shows how the pipes slide in to each other. And the 2 slots on the side bars that allows for adjustment.

 

[Nsleone]

Yeah the 2 center bars are bolted where the collars are. Those are just rubber collars that go over the bolt holes and then a "joiner plate" slides under the rubber and bolts together.

So both ends of the bar need to be cut on both front and back bars. The center tubes slide inside of the tubes on the side bars. So the bar can't just be cut on the ends as the have threaded holes built into them.

The bottom plate on the end rail has to be cut at the curve otherwise it will not sit flat on the bed rails.

So on the overhead part… Are those silver things on the collars bolts to lock the center tubes in place? If they are and those little holes in the collars are threaded you could cut the tubes and drill a hole for the little locking bolts… If that makes sense ( I’m not great at detailing ideas )

 

[MurphBigHorn]

Never seen a bighorn DRL swap from alpha, I like it! Makes me want that programmer even more

I’ll post some day time photos tomorrow.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

So on the overhead part… Are those silver things on the collars bolts to lock the center tubes in place? If they are and those little holes in the collars are threaded you could cut the tubes and drill a hole for the little locking bolts… If that makes sense ( I’m not great at detailing ideas )

I don't follow sorry haha

So if you see picture #4 where there is one bolt in a hole and then a shiny silver piece. That is basically a welded nut inside of the tune. I don't want to loose those threaded holes as that is where the bolt goes through the side bar tube and through the joiner plate and then screws into the middle bar into the welded on nut.

So instead if cutting at the end if the pipe and loosing those threaded nuts that are attached inside the pipe, I'll cut above them, cut off the amount I need gone and weld them back together. This will shorten the pipe as well I won't loose the threaded hole.

So see the picture here. The blue represents material that will be cut out. Red represents the pipes that will be reconnected by welding. The white line is how to align the part with the bolts with the other part of the pipe so the arch of the pipe stays in the correct position.

 

[jl13]

Clean some oil drops due to i hope when the dealer did the oil change. The skid plate is also heavily stain with oil/grease. Will be checking again in few days to see if i actualy have a leak.
Then later took my dog to the park. Eventually i will do a proper retrofit on the raised platform i made for my 4th gen quad cab so it fits better on this crew cab but for now this will do

 

[HEMIJAKE]

What's the expected life out of these tires? On my Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk I got 75k miles on the factory rubber before I swapped for BFG KO2.

I'm not sure exactly, but I don't expect much out of them. I've rotated mine at every oil change, and they're showing a fair bit of wear at 15k already.

 

[1.21gigawatts]

Stared at these dumb stupid things on it...


I also had these Mopar ones on my Charger from the factory (or dealer, whoevertheF puts them on) and i HATED the way it looked on there too.

I want to put a set of spline locks on them instead, and i see the M14 X 1.5's come in 2 lengths... 1-3/8" and 2"

Anyone know if the 1-3/8" would be too shallow to work? The inside cone on the OEM lugs has 1.5+ a smidge inside it, but i know the studs don't bottom out in the nut or it wouldn't work... just wondering if anyone has any experience with something shorter and less dumb and stupid looking that doesn't look so dumb and stupid. thanks for any info, peeps...

 

[Nsleone]

I don't follow sorry haha

So if you see picture #4 where there is one bolt in a hole and then a shiny silver piece. That is basically a welded nut inside of the tune. I don't want to loose those threaded holes as that is where the bolt goes through the side bar tube and through the joiner plate and then screws into the middle bar into the welded on nut.

So instead if cutting at the end if the pipe and loosing those threaded nuts that are attached inside the pipe, I'll cut above them, cut off the amount I need gone and weld them back together. This will shorten the pipe as well I won't loose the threaded hole.

So see the picture here. The blue represents material that will be cut out. Red represents the pipes that will be reconnected by welding. The white line is how to align the part with the bolts with the other part of the pipe so the arch of the pipe stays in the correct position.


View attachment 125970

Ah ok I see, didn’t know those were welded nuts, I think your plan should work good

 

[Eighty]

Just hope that cutting the bars doesn't pull the side in where they don't match up with the cab.
View attachment 125957

View attachment 125958

I'm a little concerned about how you'd mount this (after modifying). I only see two large holes on the downturn flanges - no other attachment points. On my Rambar, there are three bolt holes along the top surface (inboard of the posts), as well as a single side-mounted hole on the downturn flange. So each side of my Rambar has 4 bolts.
Unless I'm missing them, I only see two holes on each side - at the rear end (which isn't great). Kinda makes me wonder how these are supposed to mount on the HD Rams.

 

[HemiDude]

Stared at these dumb stupid things on it...
View attachment 125978

I also had these Mopar ones on my Charger from the factory (or dealer, whoevertheF puts them on) and i HATED the way it looked on there too.

I want to put a set of spline locks on them instead, and i see the M14 X 1.5's come in 2 lengths... 1-3/8" and 2"

Anyone know if the 1-3/8" would be too shallow to work? The inside cone on the OEM lugs has 1.5+ a smidge inside it, but i know the studs don't bottom out in the nut or it wouldn't work... just wondering if anyone has any experience with something shorter and less dumb and stupid looking that doesn't look so dumb and stupid. thanks for any info, peeps...

WOW - They intentionally put those on???

 

[pmegason]

Finally got my tow hooks powder coated and installed. Only been sitting in my garage for 6 months.

 

[Jeepdinger]

I don't follow sorry haha

So if you see picture #4 where there is one bolt in a hole and then a shiny silver piece. That is basically a welded nut inside of the tune. I don't want to loose those threaded holes as that is where the bolt goes through the side bar tube and through the joiner plate and then screws into the middle bar into the welded on nut.

So instead if cutting at the end if the pipe and loosing those threaded nuts that are attached inside the pipe, I'll cut above them, cut off the amount I need gone and weld them back together. This will shorten the pipe as well I won't loose the threaded hole.

So see the picture here. The blue represents material that will be cut out. Red represents the pipes that will be reconnected by welding. The white line is how to align the part with the bolts with the other part of the pipe so the arch of the pipe stays in the correct position.


View attachment 125970

Yeah, you got the right plan. Much easier to just modify the center tube after it's removed from whole assembly. This way it all fits back together. No other way to do it without fabricating a new center tube, or finding an old guy at the muffler shop who will just cut and weld in a new tube "good as new". LOL.

 

[jonmarin9]

Finished up my front lights tonight.
Diode Dynamics SS5 Pros
Dark Dune brackets
Auxbeam RGB controller

Looks great! Do you know if they have plans to make these brackets, or their light bar for non-Rebel Rams?

 

[HSKR R/T]

Stared at these dumb stupid things on it...
View attachment 125978

I also had these Mopar ones on my Charger from the factory (or dealer, whoevertheF puts them on) and i HATED the way it looked on there too.

I want to put a set of spline locks on them instead, and i see the M14 X 1.5's come in 2 lengths... 1-3/8" and 2"

Anyone know if the 1-3/8" would be too shallow to work? The inside cone on the OEM lugs has 1.5+ a smidge inside it, but i know the studs don't bottom out in the nut or it wouldn't work... just wondering if anyone has any experience with something shorter and less dumb and stupid looking that doesn't look so dumb and stupid. thanks for any info, peeps...

Could just use normal hex lug nuts and not worry about it.