What did you do to your Ram today???

[WReckeR]

Painted my tow hooks, pretty close match to the wheels!

View attachment 111498

I like your wheels because they remind me of the EBC brake rotors on my Kawasaki ZX12R

 

[silverWS6]

I like your wheels because they remind me of the EBC brake rotors on my Kawasaki ZX12R
View attachment 111512

Wow! That is a pretty close match

 

[z0n3]

Did that change make the ride better? Do you know what you got for total lift over stock on setting 4? I’m trying to decide on setting 3 or 4

So far I prefer the ride on setting 4 over setting 5. The ride on setting 5 didn't feel as planted to the road. Setting 4 feels like an overall better ride height since the shocks are maxed out.
As for ride heights here are the numbers for the front:
Stock: 37.75"
#4: 39"
#5: 39.5
The rear has stayed at 40" because all I did was swap the shocks. To me the truck looked nose high on setting #5 and if I put any weight in the bed it was really nose high. Setting #4 looks actually levelled.

 

[ReLLIK75]

Man I would have done it and added if afterwards. It's a breeze to add it to these trucks and it wasn't too expensive if you sale your factory taillights! Just my thought though.

The truck has 360 surround cameras, so I'd image that the mirrors with the blind spot monitors would be quite expensive. I know it cost me about $1500 to pull the tow mirrors that came on my Rebel and swap them with the regular powered, retractable, heated mirrors. But the deal with my wife when purchasing this truck is that I wouldn't make any aftermarket mods. It still just blows my mind that they configured a truck with the tow package and left off the blind spot monitoring. After having it on my Rebel and seeing how it auto adjusts based on your current tow length, there is no way I'd give that one up. Not to mention it's saved my *** a few times when trying to change lanes driving down the highway.

 

[Whoa_Ram]

The truck has 360 surround cameras, so I'd image that the mirrors with the blind spot monitors would be quite expensive. I know it cost me about $1500 to pull the tow mirrors that came on my Rebel and swap them with the regular powered, retractable, heated mirrors. But the deal with my wife when purchasing this truck is that I wouldn't make any aftermarket mods. It still just blows my mind that they configured a truck with the tow package and left off the blind spot monitoring. After having it on my Rebel and seeing how it auto adjusts based on your current tow length, there is no way I'd give that one up. Not to mention it's saved my *** a few times when trying to change lanes driving down the highway.

I went the cheaper option of just replacing the glass and adding the wires. I think overall that way I spent 120 on each glass and Jimmy sold me the wiring harness for like 100 bucks. was super easy to do, but I feel you. That truck should have came with it. Next truck I get better have it or it better be super easy to install aftermarket like this Ram.

 

[Ldc2335]

Do you have any idea what 6x9’s you will use for the rear? I haven’t changed mine yet for the same reason you don’t like the rear infinity speakers.

Well, I'm still not happy with the Infinity Reference I put in the rear doors, and after going crazy trying to decide, I ordered the CDT HD-690SEX ( Carbon fiber 6x9 Coax). I was thoroughly impressed with the CL69S that I put in the front doors, and from what I can see, these are the same midbass woofers but with the tweeter addition. They should be here in a week or so.

CDT Audio HD-690CFX

On a side note, I don't know if they are just really power hungry, or if the infinity's impedance caused the amp to lose power, but it definitely takes more power/volume to get the stereo as loud as stock. I can max it to 38 and while it's plenty loud enough, it used to go never have to go that high. I guess we'll see when I put these in if I get any extra power/volume back.

If it turns out I have the same brightness problem (which I doubt), CDT does sell some cool little devices (BSC-1 Bright Sound Compensator) that you put inline to calm down the mids and highs.

CDT Audio BSC-1 Bright Sound Compensator

www.cdtaudio.com

 

[ReLLIK75]

I went the cheaper option of just replacing the glass and adding the wires. I think overall that way I spent 120 on each glass and Jimmy sold me the wiring harness for like 100 bucks. was super easy to do, but I feel you. That truck should have came with it. Next truck I get better have it or it better be super easy to install aftermarket like this Ram.

Are there documented instructions/parts lists to do this? I might go back and get it. I still have all the bank docs signed and ready to go.

 

[ferraiolo1]

1.5" Wolf level, 1" Bora spacers, Falken Wildpeak AT3's 275/60R20 on OEM wheels.

Do the wheels sit flush with the flares? And did you have to cut your studs?


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[Whoa_Ram]

Are there documented instructions/parts lists to do this? I might go back and get it. I still have all the bank docs signed and ready to go.

I would ask @Jimmy07. He's the man with all that knowledge.

 

[djevox]

Well, I'm still not happy with the Infinity Reference I put in the rear doors, and after going crazy trying to decide, I ordered the CDT HD-690SEX ( Carbon fiber 6x9 Coax). I was thoroughly impressed with the CL69S that I put in the front doors, and from what I can see, these are the same midbass woofers but with the tweeter addition. They should be here in a week or so.

CDT Audio HD-690CFX

On a side note, I don't know if they are just really power hungry, or if the infinity's impedance caused the amp to lose power, but it definitely takes more power/volume to get the stereo as loud as stock. I can max it to 38 and while it's plenty loud enough, it used to go never have to go that high. I guess we'll see when I put these in if I get any extra power/volume back.

If it turns out I have the same brightness problem (which I doubt), CDT does sell some cool little devices (BSC-1 Bright Sound Compensator) that you put inline to calm down the mids and highs.

CDT Audio BSC-1 Bright Sound Compensator

www.cdtaudio.com

Nice! I’m thinking the same thing with your rear infinity 6x9’s. I replaced the dash corners with infinity and the front doors with CDT, and I only have to go up one notch to achieve the same loudness feel (not measured with db meter though). I hope those CDT rears work out well. Let me know what happens

 

[Idahoktm]

Do the wheels sit flush with the flares? And did you have to cut your studs?


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I'll answer for German88 since he's not online. The tires look just about flush and he didn't cut the studs.

 

[ferraiolo1]

Spiffy!


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[ijanderson29]

With the 1" spacers, if you did t trim your factory lugs, I'd highly recommend removing the wheels and making sure the lugs aren't contacting the wheels. On my 2020 Built to Serve, my factory lugs were slightly hitting the wheels with the 1" Bora spacers on the rear. I trimmed off the unthreaded "nipple" and they were fine after that

I'm curious if you've had any other issues with your 1" Bora spacer? I've read awful things and been advised to never put on wheel spacers due to so many issues, but i like the more offset look. I've just been scared off in the past of running wheel spacers on a nice truck.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I'm curious if you've had any other issues with your 1" Bora spacer? I've read awful things and been advised to never put on wheel spacers due to so many issues, but i like the more offset look. I've just been scared off in the past of running wheel spacers on a nice truck.

Nothing wrong with wheel spacers as long as you use good quality hub centric soacers. I've had zero issues with the Bora spacers. Very good quality. Trimming the stud isn't a spacer "issue" just something you need to know might need done when going with the thinner spacers. I have 3/4" spacers in the front of my truck and the 1" in rear

 

[HSKR R/T]

Do the wheels sit flush with the flares? And did you have to cut your studs?


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Rears will be near flush, fronts will stick out just over 1/4". The front track widrh on these trucks is 1/4" wider on each side than the rear.

 

[djevox]

 

[HSKR R/T]

Do the wheels sit flush with the flares? And did you have to cut your studs?


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Here are pics of my Built to Serve. 3/4" front spacers, 1" rear spacers. 3rd picture are the marks on my wheels from factory studs with 1" rear spacers. Which is why I suggest you verify and trim them down if they hit like mine did

 

[Jr22]

NOT installing a 4inch BDS air lift, brixton forge on 35 nitto grapplers and cross drilled rotors.......BDS sent the small bore knuckles instead of big bore that goes with the factory 22's on the kit. Back to a few more weeks of waiting hopefully........................................................................................

 

[jl13]

With the 1" spacers, if you did t trim your factory lugs, I'd highly recommend removing the wheels and making sure the lugs aren't contacting the wheels. On my 2020 Built to Serve, my factory lugs were slightly hitting the wheels with the 1" Bora spacers on the rear. I trimmed off the unthreaded "nipple" and they were fine after that

yea I think you are right, when I was ordering mine - I believe 1.25 was the minimum to not have to trim/grind. I ended up going with 1.5. I am happy with the look. tire doesn't really stick out and I added the husky mud flaps for more protection

 

[jl13]

Over last few days: second oil change at 13k with PUP, swapped bilsteins from setting 4 to 5, and paid the $700 vehicle registration tab fee.....

yikes, I think mine will be close to $800 - I got special plates so it adds to mine