Air conditioning Hack

[Royal27]

Another shout out to @KcRay !

I put in the ball valve today and dropped the temp in the driver side from 52 to 43. I didn't need the thermometer to tell the difference.

I'm not concerned about the difference in pressure either. I doubt it would be appreciable. The impeller from the water pump effectively just moves the coolant around and the hack changes only a small part. To each his own though.

I would also never do the hose pinch as a permanent solution as I do think that could cause issues over time.

 

[ColoradoCub]

Another shout out to @KcRay !

I put in the ball valve today and dropped the temp in the driver side from 52 to 43. I didn't need the thermometer to tell the difference.

I'm not concerned about the difference in pressure either. I doubt it would be appreciable. The impeller from the water pump effectively just moves the coolant around and the hack changes only a small part. To each his own though.

I would also never do the hose pinch as a permanent solution as I do think that could cause issues over time.

That’s what the temp would be blowing without the valve if the warm air blend door actually closed all the way. And 10 deg is a huge difference in effective cooling.

 

[Royal27]

That’s what the temp would be blowing without the valve if the warm air blend door actually closed all the way. And 10 deg is a huge difference in effective cooling.

It most certainly is a huge difference!

Just got back from seeing a movie and the truck sat in the sun here in Texas for three hours. Big difference in how quickly the cab cooled down.

Side note. Like others have commented on I had to cut and pry the end of the hose off the fitting. That sucker was glued on! I had to scrape as well to clean it up.

 

[saxapl]

I too inserted the shutoff valve today. I was not interested in scientific results, just seat of the pants feel. I was not unhappy with the AC performance before, but I could tell it was not up to the level of my other vehicles, or my father’s brand new Chevy 3500.

I installed the Four Seasons automotive shutoff. We used to do this on cars ages ago, as well as tractors. You never used to be able to keep heat out of the cabin without it.

Even though I was not unhappy before, I am really pleased now. It makes a world of difference. Truck is now an ice box with the valve shut down. That was enough to prove to me that there is heater core infiltration into the AC air, whether it be because of a blend door or not.

For those worried about pressures, don’t. There will be no overall measurable system pressure increase, especially not compared to what your thermostat does. For those worried about stagnation, don’t. The whole system is a closed loop. Additionally, you are only going to isolate for the hottest months of the year, and you may not isolate completely.

This is well worth the couple bucks it costs, and the couple curse words pulling the factory hose off the barb. Great fix for a problem out of a decades old playbook.

Thanks to everyone for the information on this hack.

 

[rrbhokies]

Has anyone made a video showing how to hook up the valve?

 

[_StangPGH]

Has anyone made a video showing how to hook up the valve?

Don't think so but really no need. Look at the pics in post #1. It's a 2 minute job after you get the hose off.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[rrbhokies]

Don't think so but really no need. Look at the pics in post #1. It's a 2 minute job after you get the hose off.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

So if I'm to understand:
Buy a 3/4" Valve like the Everflow one that everyone is getting on Amazon
Buy a couple of clamps (5/8" clamps or 3/4" clamps)
Buy a foot long piece of 5/8 Tubing (Exactly what kind? And what do you use to cut it down to size?)
Remove the existing hose from the water pump (Some people have said they had to cut the hose off. If that happens, how do you attach the existing hose to the new valve? Do you cut off the piece of tubing that you had to slice, or do you just slip it over the new valve?)

I'm a newbie at this. I have the HF Clamp and that was easy enough to follow along, but I am looking for a nice step by step set of instructions on what to do, which is why I was hoping someone had made a youtube video or provided a step by step guide.

Also, I see posts of someone that created an elaborate system using multiple valves and connect the in and out hoses. Is that even necessary or am I simply following @KcRay solution?

 

[ColoradoCub]

Buy the valve that you want. Go to auto parts store and buy 1 Ft of 5/8 “ heater hose and 2 clamps that fit that hose. Cut the heater hose at 3” using a razor or sharp knife. Slide 3” piece of hose onto one end of valve. Slide first clamp on and tighten where hose goes on valve. Slide other clamp on hose and leave loose, go ahead and close valve and set aside. If you have a HF clamp already go ahead and tighten it down all the way on the heater hose at least several inches back from the factory hose clamp. This will help reduce spillage. Use pliers and pinch the factory clamp where the factory heater hose goes on the black bypass tube on water pump. Squeeze pliers to open up factory clamp while gently pulling on hose to work it off water pump tube. Once its close have the prepared valve with hose and clamps at the ready. As soon as factory hose comes off the black tube, stick the prepared valve and hose on black tube. Go ahead and tighten the clamp you left loose onto black tube. Now take the factory hose and compress the factory clamp again while sliding it over the other exposed end on valve. Remove the HF clamp and your done. Do this with the engine cold! You will have some coolant spillage so something underneath to catch the coolant is a good idea. Done!

 

[saxapl]

The valve should be an automotive 5/8” or something that can handle the coolant temperature. I know some are using PEX valves, I do not know what they are rated for, but coolant will reach 235 degrees when the engine is operating normally, 260 degrees if running hot.

The 5/8 hose should be heater hose. Gates Green Stripe is a high quality hose. You will buy by the foot, but you need much less.

2 5/8” hose clamps, or 3 if you do not reuse the factory clamp.

From there it is as easy as identifying the engine out hose, removing it from the water pump (which is the hardest part), and adding your new valve and hose in between the pump and the factory hose. Tighten your hose clamps and close your valve. Done.

You should only lose a little coolant, which you will want to clean up. The best way to tell if you have a leak is by the sweet smell of antifreeze, so clean up what you spilled. Low pressure water on that part of the engine will not hurt.

The only difficult part is removing the factory hose...they have it sealed on pretty good.

 

[ldoh]

Nice write-ups. About the only thing I wish I did different was wearing automotive repair gloves to protect hands/knuckles as that protective hose loom can be abrasive. I also bought a click r hose clamp pliers for next time.

 

[stepbill]

I intend to do the valve after I take the truck to it's appointment on this Thursday for poor A/C. Those that have done the valve, I assume that you plan to take it off and back to original if you have to take the truck back in for warranty work?

 

[dmodem]

Although I like the hack idea for a 5-10 year old vehicle that's out of warranty, I don't appreciate having to do a personal modification on a $60k+ truck where the manufacturer isn't willing to come up with a suitable repair knowing there are that many owners with an a/c issue. Nonsense.

 

[Zeronet]

The valve sure cured my a/c. Was slow to cool down the cabin before. Now it reaches the set temp much quicker and the blower starts to wind down, ahhhh. I posted my vent temps a while back, before the valve the driver vent was 51 (the lowest i saw) when it was 86 outside. After the valve I got 44 from the same vent at 94 outside.

If/until this gets fixed by the manufacturer this is staying on and I’m driving in comfort.

 

[ramhead]

Something to ponder for those doing the valve thing.....if something happens and you unfortunately break down on the highway and/or have to have it towed to the dealership, would you be able to reverse what you did in time?? In that situation you might have wished you did the clamp thing.

As for me, the clamp makes more sense since I'm in NJ and only need it for a few months...by Sept. I can take it off and not worry about it until the next summer. I realize a lot of you live in areas where you need it for much longer so I guess long term the valve makes more sense...but I wouldn't want to be in that situation where it has to be towed in and you're unable to put it back to the way it was. Red flag for any warranty work.

 

[Zeronet]

The only warranty work that could be a concern to me would be something related to the cooling system. In that case, remove 2 spring clamps with a pair of pliers to return to stock. No biggie. I’m not removing it for oil changes and such.

I was more concerned with a failure related to clamping the hose and the hose failing. I tried the clamp as a temporary “trial” before adding the valve and didn’t like how tightly the clamp needed to be applied to significantly affect the vent temps. It may be fine on newer hoses that are nice and pliable but over time they will become stiffer and more prone to cracks/leaks.

I think my valve will be on for the long term since I doubt Ram will do anything to fix this problem. If that’s the case I’ve made the right choice in my mind.

Interested to see if Ram made any changes for the 2020, I doubt it even though this has been a well documented issue.

 

[BFDM]

Greetings,

FNG here with 3-month-old 1500 Crew Cab. FANTASTIC news as the AC is about the ONLY thing I don't like about this truck. It's fine till temps above the low 80s with sunshine, then it's lame. Above 90, it's very lame and the only way you stay cool is with the blower on HIGH. I hate listening to a damn blower on my 4 hours drives. And, I do a LOT of 4-hour drives.

I didn't read this whole thread, just skipped most of it until I found the instructions for adding the valve. This is a mod I will undertake SOON. I'll go back to page one and get my learn on.

Gotta love forums and smart guys ingenuity.

 

[ColoradoCub]

I picked up some family at the Denver airport the other day and it was 90+ degrees, they were hot as hell when they finally got into my truck. The first thing they were all begging for more AC and I was so thankful that I have that valve in there or they would have been bitching about the AC in my new truck.

 

[saxapl]

Something to ponder for those doing the valve thing.....if something happens and you unfortunately break down on the highway and/or have to have it towed to the dealership, would you be able to reverse what you did in time?? In that situation you might have wished you did the clamp thing.

As for me, the clamp makes more sense since I'm in NJ and only need it for a few months...by Sept. I can take it off and not worry about it until the next summer. I realize a lot of you live in areas where you need it for much longer so I guess long term the valve makes more sense...but I wouldn't want to be in that situation where it has to be towed in and you're unable to put it back to the way it was. Red flag for any warranty work.

If you have a dealer denying warranty for putting a heater core shutoff in line, find a new dealer. There is no adverse impact on the vehicle and, by law, they cannot deny warranty unless they can show the modification caused the failure.

Although my AC was good without the valve, I gave it a try and the results are great. I was originally of the opinion that I should not have to modify a brand new truck. I am still of that opinion, except this modification was more like mudflaps or tint for me. Made a good truck better. I realize others have deficient AC. But, just because you should not have to put the mod on a new truck does not mean you should not put the mod on a new truck. Think of it as an aftermarket accessory and enjoy colder AC rather than suffering.

 

[User_3336]

I still have to ask . . . All those of you that are installing the "valve".....What are you doing IF/WHEN you have to take the vehicle in for service on something?
Surely that is going to be noticed (although a/c might not be what your service issue is).
How are you going to explain the "mod/valve"?

Likewise, the clamp clamp can be removed in seconds and undetectable (and will only remain on during the remainder of the summer.

 

[AndreiV]

When you install permanent valve solution you will loose a little bit of coolant during process. Can I just add any orange (Dexcool) or Mopar makes it's own coolant bland? Manual only mentions OAT coolant (antifreeze) (conforming to MS.90032)