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Window Tinting On The Ram

Kenny4

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My installer didn't need to remove the mirror. I don't know if it's a judgement call on the installer's part or if that's standard practice.

In my youth I spent some time in Orlando and had 5% all around in my standard cab Toyota pickup and, while that was great during the Florida sun, it sucked in the dark. I would have to roll my window down to see the median when I was making a turn and that was back when I had 20/20 vision and my eyes were only 24 years old.

Privacy was not big on my list (with factory 20% on everything in the back of the cab that was enough privacy for me). My two biggest priorities were the sun beating on me (I drive north in the afternoon commuting home from work) and getting a ticket (I'm too old to roll the windows down every time I see law enforcement plus there's no way my wife is going to buy off on more tint when I knowingly installed "illegal" tint to start with ;)). Not to mention I drive 20K+ miles a year so wanted a comfortable cab overall especially since my A/C is not the greatest to boot.

I only wanted to do this once so was leaning ceramic but ended up going with 3M Crystalline tint instead (don't be mislead, no matter what the shop tells you Crystalline is not ceramic). The specs are comparable to ceramic - some are a little better or worse depending on what you are looking for but everything is very close. What tipped me over the edge was the clarity. Everything I'd read talks about how clear it is (no distortion). I know tint isn't going to look like a funhouse mirror but I hate any kind of distortion through my windows (I'm just a little OCD).

I ended up getting 3M Crystalline on all my windows:

Rear window - 70% (all 3 pieces as I have the slider)

Rear doors - 70%

Front doors - 50%

Windshield - 70%

I initially went 50% on the front doors so that my windshield didn't look tinted but I'm glad I did. From the inside it almost doesn't look tinted.

I know that's a "little" outside the CVC (California Vehicle Code) but with what everybody else is doing you have to take a good look to tell I'm outside "code".

Pros:
- H-U-G-E difference in cabin temp. Not only can my A/C keep up but I don't feel the sun beating down on me. I still feel some warmth but I don't feel like I'm cooking in the sunlight any more. Every time I drive my wife's truck I realize just how great my tint really is.

- Clarity. While I wanted ceramic I wanted clear vision all around. Regardless of how good that might have been with ceramic I went with the best chance for undistorted vision and I wasn't disappointed. I had to really inspect the back windows to make sure they put tint on them. I see why many put Crystalline on the windshield regardless of what they put on the windows.

Cons:
- Lighter wallet

- The headlights come on a tad earlier and turn off a smidge later in AUTO mode. :cool:

- Very small concern that Johnny Law might cite me.

I paid $1300 out the door (tint+labor+tax). While that is on the higher end, it was worth it to me. I did get everything tinted (windshield is a big price bump) from one of the best shops around (did an excellent job) and have a lifetime 3M warranty. If I have any issues I can take it to any authorized 3M installer to have it fixed as long as I own the truck.

Before and after:

View attachment 110907

Some installers won't do the windshield due to the warning about the electronics under the dash but mine had no problem taking my money and tinting the whole windshield:

View attachment 110908
That statement has me a bit concerned. Where was that originally posted. I was looking at my dash and windshield today. They can easily cover the dash while working but the last amount of water squeegeed at the bottom has no alternative but to drain into the underside. They need room to push the tint to the bottom of the glass so no room for anything else. That is definitely food for thought.

Here is a good YouTube video
 
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IvoryHemi

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When I got my truck it 40% front window tint and the factory rear measured at 22%

I changed the front to 15%, added 35% over the factory which the rear now measures at 9%

15% over the rear sliding window, (measures at 5%). Air 80 on the windshield and pano

I used Llumar Pinnacle Ceramic

56FC7A4E-98C9-4F91-998F-F0D16BDC7C72.png C7224D26-D31E-4CDC-94CE-1ADF208197EB.png
 

mikeru82

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You can't really get noticeably darker than 5% without it being opaque. What do you consider "dark" if you didn't think it was that dark? 😁
You might want to read what you quoted me as saying again. I didn't say I don't think it was that dark, I said I didn't like it that dark. ;)

Edit: I see someone already corrected you on that. Please disregard this post :p
 

brian42

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That statement has me a bit concerned. Where was that originally posted. I was looking at my dash and windshield today. They can easily cover the dash while working but the last amount of water squeegeed at the bottom has no alternative but to drain into the underside. They need room to push the tint to the bottom of the glass so no room for anything else. That is definitely food for thought.

Here is a good YouTube video
I don’t know their process but they assured me they take more precautions than most and it was not an issue. They’d done other RAMs without issue and were not worried about it so neither was I.
 

ferraiolo1

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7ee13021b926d46e1ce2ad63b8db1391.jpg

20%. None ceramic on the front. And a window drop down to the legal asi line.

Everything matches pretty perfectly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

c3k

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I used Innovative Solar in Advance, NC (near Winston-Salem) and mentioned this very thing. They (one of the partners) has a Gen5 Ram and is VERY familiar. ;)

A microfiber rope down in dash/windshield seems to be the key.

TL;DR: a good installer will know what to do...and be able to do it.
 

Kenny4

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7ee13021b926d46e1ce2ad63b8db1391.jpg

20%. None ceramic on the front. And a window drop down to the legal asi line.

Everything matches pretty perfectly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you have a pic of the front door window up close so we can see the drop down. Thanks
 

Kenny4

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Man, this guy is really thorough. I've watched others that don't remove anything. Short video.

 

Shots

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Man, this guy is really thorough. I've watched others that don't remove anything. Short video.
Wow, yeah he is. I've been doing tint for years (side hustle, not professionally) and that is definitely not common practice.

A side note: He made that look easier than it is. I can do a window fairly quick, but not as fast as that video. He's good.
 

sessman

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Most people who get tint are doing it for the same two reasons. They like the way it looks and/or they want the privacy. UV protection is a bonus. If that weren't the case, people would be applying legal tint.
That said, if you're solely concerned with UV protection for your arms you can get 70 - 80 % tint that blocks 99% of the UV light. → LINK HERE
To give you an idea of how "dark" that is, most factory windows already have 70% tint, which looks basically clear. Your windows will have a small label etched onto it. You'll notice on the bottom of my Jeep's label it lists 70% transparency. I haven't looked to see what the Ram say, but this is common.
I was told that the factory windows aren't tinted at all, it's simply privacy glass that provides 0% UV protection. I had all 5 windows ceramic tinted because of that. Is that true?
 

Kenny4

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Ferraiolo1 and craig4fsu---Thanks for the pics. Is the tint strip commonly 5%?
 

Shots

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I was told that the factory windows aren't tinted at all, it's simply privacy glass that provides 0% UV protection. I had all 5 windows ceramic tinted because of that. Is that true?
It's not a film if that's what you're asking, but the glass is tinted (it's baked into the glass). That said, tint doesn't automatically mean UV protection, it is simply a rating of visible light transmission. The OEM glass, as I also understand it, does not provide UV protection but you'll see on the label it lists a minimum of 70% transparency.

Before applying any aftermarket tint my windows tested 70% transparency on the front and 20% on the rear. Here's a photo of my driver's door (bottom rear corner). Look at yours in the same place and you'll see the same thing.
If you look two rows down from the Mopar label it says "AS2" (next to the big E11). This designates laminated glass with 70% tint. I don't see any marking designating UV protection so I'd say it's safe to assume it is only a privacy tint. So you were told partially correct. I don't think they offer UV protection so that was right, but they are tinted so not completely accurate.
Ceramic was a good choice.

OEM tint window specs.jpg
 

Idahoktm

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It's not a film if that's what you're asking, but the glass is tinted (it's baked into the glass). That said, tint doesn't automatically mean UV protection, it is simply a rating of visible light transmission. The OEM glass, as I also understand it, does not provide UV protection but you'll see on the label it lists a minimum of 70% transparency.

Before applying any aftermarket tint my windows tested 70% transparency on the front and 20% on the rear. Here's a photo of my driver's door (bottom rear corner). Look at yours in the same place and you'll see the same thing.
If you look two rows down from the Mopar label it says "AS2" (next to the big E11). This designates laminated glass with 70% tint. I don't see any marking designating UV protection so I'd say it's safe to assume it is only a privacy tint. So you were told partially correct. I don't think they offer UV protection so that was right, but they are tinted so not completely accurate.
Ceramic was a good choice.

View attachment 111431
The rear OEM glass is obviously darker than the forward windows. I think everyone understood what he was trying to say.
 

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