Wild Electrical issues fixed

[Vulpes]

I get it, it’s a frustrating experience. Mindset Mechanic also has some great videos around diagnosing CAN bus issues as well.

It’s a 1975 Plymouth Duster. Stock 318 but I added a 4bbl carb, Eddy performer intake, dual exhaust. It’s nothing fancy, but fun to drive. Don’t get much time to work on it these days with the kiddos running around though.

I called the dealer today, I was told the cluster U0001 code I’m seeing is a “stored” code and they need an “active” code for them to work on it. Should I just be looking for an independent mechanic that can diagnose electrical and CAN issues? The dealer seems to be of no help so far…

I'll bet that Duster is real fun to drive and work on. Makes me kinda miss my long gone 72' Monte Carlo, ran 12's in the quarter and could also take it on road trips, and fix it easily.

If you can find a decent diagnostic shop, that methodically hunts for the problem, you'll be ahead of me, I still haven't found one.

 

[Tripolet333]

It’s is fun! …when I get time for it…

Actually talked to a couple mechanics yesterday. The first wanted no part of it, told me to take it to the dealer. The other said he’s diagnosed CAN bus issues before but since the dealer cleared the codes, he may need me to wait until it acts up again so he’s got some codes to look through. He said the intermittent ones are definitely difficult to fix, but not impossible.

Maybe related or unrelated, a clunk/rattle in my steering has mysteriously developed out of nowhere. Drove to the store with no issues, idled in the parking lot while the wife shopped and the kids napped, and all the way home I felt a rattle in the steering wheel with every bump or crack in the road…

 

[Ellisstrong]

My thing I noticed today that may or may not be related is that when my phone is plugged in with CarPlay and running waze or google maps my speed doesn’t correct to what the truck says like it used to do. Now the waze shows my correct speed as I have larger tires and haven’t corrected my speedometer

 

[N7GZN]

There are other devices on the canbus; for example, rear proximity detection in the tail lights if so equipped. It is not unheard of to have water entering a leaky tail light, which damages the proximity detection modules and then the damaged proximity modules taking the entire canbus offline causing all manner of errors for any and all devices which share the same network.

 

[Tripolet333]

There are other devices on the canbus; for example, rear proximity detection in the tail lights if so equipped. It is not unheard of to have water entering a leaky tail light, which damages the proximity detection modules and then the damaged proximity modules taking the entire canbus offline causing all manner of errors for any and all devices which share the same network.

Thanks for the info! I have checked the lights for moisture but it’s been pretty dry here in St. Louis since I got my truck back from the dealer, so haven’t seen any signs of that. Are there symptoms that would elude to a sensor issue though? I’ll be at a dead stop at a stop light and randomly have my prox detection beep at me (usually in the front). I’ve always assumed either a sensor was dirty or the sun reflecting off a car around me set it off…am I wrong in that thinking and maybe this is a faulty sensor?

 

[N7GZN]

Intermittent faults are difficult to fix by their inherent nature. Honestly it could be a multitude of issues.
Starting from the ip cluster I would then escalate accordingly to the network in which it is connected.

 

[N7GZN]

With that, my OBD reader lists two networks and here's the lists of both.

Note, depending on options one may not have all of these devices for example I do not have 4 corner air suspension, so I don't have the Air Suspension Control Module.

Network A: (I think in AlfaOBD this is Chassis net)
Active Noise Cancellation
Active Vibration Cancellation
Adaptive Front Lighting
Air Suspension Control Module
Anti-Lock Brake System
Battery Pack Control Module
Body Control Module
Electric Power Steering
Electronic Shifter Module
Engine Control Module
Hybrid Control Processor
Instrument Panel Cluster
Integrated Trailer Brake Module
Occupant Classification Module
Occupant Restraint Controller
Parktronics Module
Radio Frequency Hub
Security Gateway
Steering Column Control Module
Transmission Control Module

 

[N7GZN]

Network B: (I think in AlfaOBD this is Cabin net)
Audio Amplifier
Central Vision Processor
Comfort Rear Seat Module
Comfort Seat Wheel Module
Connected Media Center Module
Display Screen Module
Drivers Door Module
External Disk Module
Heat, Ventilation and A/C
Integrated Center Stack
Left Blind Spot Sensor
Memory Seat Module
Passenger Door Module
Power Step Module
Right Blind Spot Sensor

Whew, that's a long list..

 

[N7GZN]

I think the left and right blind spot sensors are the sensors in the tail lights if so equipped. If that is the case they are on a different network than the IP display.

 

[Vulpes]

It’s is fun! …when I get time for it…

Actually talked to a couple mechanics yesterday. The first wanted no part of it, told me to take it to the dealer. The other said he’s diagnosed CAN bus issues before but since the dealer cleared the codes, he may need me to wait until it acts up again so he’s got some codes to look through. He said the intermittent ones are definitely difficult to fix, but not impossible.

Maybe related or unrelated, a clunk/rattle in my steering has mysteriously developed out of nowhere. Drove to the store with no issues, idled in the parking lot while the wife shopped and the kids napped, and all the way home I felt a rattle in the steering wheel with every bump or crack in the road…

For the clunk in the steering did it go away?

Here's what I can remember, other members here will probably mention what I forget:
Check the bolts that hold the EPS on.
Check the tie rods and the ends for play or being loose.
Check the joints in the steering shaft for play.
The bearings in the column can also fail.

Better yet, pulled this diagnostic information, (Please forgive the formatting):

MECHANICAL PERFORMANCE ISSUES

CONDITION	EVALUATION/CORRECTION
STEERING WHEEL IS OFF CENTER	1 . Perform the wheel alignment standard procedure (Refer to 02 - Front Suspension/Wheel Alignment - Standard Procedure) .
VEHICLE PULLS LEFT OR RIGHT	1 . Perform the wheel alignment standard procedure (Refer to 02 - Front Suspension/Wheel Alignment - Standard Procedure) .
PERCEIVED COLUMN/STEERING WHEEL FREE PLAY	1. Check pinch bolt torque. Replace pinch bolt with thread locker patch and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .
2. Check steering gear mounting bolt torque. Replace if necessary and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .
3. Rotate the steering wheel back-and-forth while watching the coupling. Observe free-play. Replace steering column as necessary (Refer to 19 - Steering/Column/Removal and Installation) .
4. If the issue remains despite previous steps, perform further evaluation of the steering joints.
STEERING WHEEL HAS FORE AND AFT LOOSENESS	1. Check steering wheel bolt torque and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .
2. Check steering column nut torque and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .
PERCEIVED DASH, VEHICLE, STEERING WHEEL VIBRATION BY DRIVER	1. Check tire pressure. Inflate tires to specified pressure if necessary.
2. Verify engine tuning/performance (Refer to 09 - Engine/Diagnosis and Testing) .
3. Check the torque of the tie rod jam nut, tie rod end to knuckle nut, and steering gear mounting bolts, and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .
4. Visually inspect for damaged or misaligned mounts. Check fastener torque. Replace or realign as necessary.
5. While the vehicle is still at 0 mph, turn the steering wheel end lock to end lock to verify if there is vibration only while steering. Steer in both directions and verify that the noise/vibration follows the steering input. Check TSBs for any known issues. Replace the steering gear as necessary (Refer to 19 - Steering/Gear/Removal and Installation) .
DIFFICULT STEERING BOTH DIRECTIONS	1. Disconnect the intermediate shaft and rotate the steering column. If the condition is still present, replace the steering column (Refer to 19 - Steering/Column/Removal and Installation) .
2. Verify that the steering column intermediate shaft bearing is installed with the Pentastar stamping up. Inspect the steering column intermediate shaft bearing and replace as necessary (Refer to 19 - Steering/Column/BEARING, Steering Column Intermediate Shaft/Removal and Installation) .
STEERING CATCHES/STICKS	1. Refer to “DIFFICULT STEERING BOTH DIRECTIONS”. Then review TSBs for a recent posting. If issue not resolved, proceed through the following:
2. Check the torque of the tie rod jam nut, tie rod end to knuckle nut, and steering gear mounting bolts, and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) .
3. Visually inspect for damaged or misaligned mounts. Check fastener torque. Replace or realign as necessary.
4. With vehicle on hoist, tires unsupported and engine on, steer gear end lock to end lock and check for smooth operation. Replace steering gear if steering efforts are not consistent throughout travel (only after all previous components have been checked).
STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT RETURN TO CENTER POSITION	1. Refer to recent TSBs, followed by “VEHICLE PULLS LEFT/RIGHT”, then “DIFFICULT STEERING BOTH DIRECTIONS”, then “STEERING CATCHES/STICKS”.
EXCESSIVE ROAD FEEDBACK	1. Check steering gear mounting bolt torque. Replace if necessary and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications) . If the issue remains, rotate steering wheel back-and-forth while inspecting intermediate shaft going into the steering gear. Look for excessive free-play. Retighten if loose bolt is found. Replace steering column if necessary (Refer to 19 - Steering/Column/Removal and Installation) .

Picture below shows the steering column for reference.

 

[Tripolet333]

Wow, thanks guys, this is a ton of great info. Just need to find a few hours to go poke around and see what I can find.

An update on the steering issue: I drove it again the other day and noticed that the clunk/rattle seems to present itself only after the truck has been on and idling for a while, almost like it needs to be warmed up. Drove to pick up some lunch with no problems, idled in the drive thru, idled in the parking lot for a bit, then the clunk/rattle started on the way back home. This was a similar experience I had when I first noticed it too. Climbed underneath and didn’t find anything loose. I find this odd though: it feels like something should be loose in the suspension, but if that’s the case, I should feel that as soon as I pull out of my garage, right? Why does it take a while of driving and idling for it to appear? Unless this is an EPS issue…?

Between the electrical/CAN bus issues and now the steering, I’m driving myself nuts with this truck…