Wild Electrical issues fixed

[Croaker]

I was experiencing the following issues.

1. Will no longer start with door open
2. Error message : service electronic stability control
3. Error message : Service electronic shifter
4. Shifter lights out
5. ((P)) error on dash
6. Error : Service Shifter

I thought it might be related to my rear window leak. Searching this forum, I discovered a post by someone who posted that the "Service Shifter" Error could be caused by the OBD. So I got under my dash and unplugged my AMP step from the OBD port and plugged it back in. Now I can start the truck with the door open again and have not seen any error messages in a few days.

Not sure what was wrong? Maybe a bad connection either in the OBD or a wire from the step?

 

[Croaker]

Well, the truck wouldn’t start today. So I found that when they replaced the rear window, they forgot to tighten the positive connection on the battery after replacing the leaking window.

The battery is at 51% charge.

 

[c3k]

Far better to find such a simple fix than to have a damaged/ruined BCM.

Call the service manager. Let him know what you found. Let him fill the silence with an offer of a free oil change or somesuch.

 

[Vulpes]

Had a similar experience this afternoon. It might be catchy. It started with a "Service Shifter" message and then lit up every CEL on the dash. The truck then turned up the radio volume, turned on the wipers of its own accord, kicked the engine fan to full speed, and lost power steering, and the gauges stopped working. The dash stated: "Service transmission continue in D. Do not shift or turn engine off. Until you reach a desired location. You may not be able to shift again until serviced."

I was able to drive it home without power steering. I checked the codes and got the following (21 codes in all): U0001, U0402, U11E4, U0121, P1DD, U02, U0415, U0416, U0101, U110C, U1110, U1412, U110E, U0155, U0212, U11BC.

Belt is good, easy to check grounds are tight...

And I give up.
I don't have the time to track down the grounds and check connections between the ECU, etc. Taking it to a diagnostic mechanic tomorrow.

Anyone else had this happen? And more importantly identify a probable issue.

The picture below was taken while in traffic, and the engine was still running, driving it without power steering.

 

[Loudram]

Had a similar experience this afternoon. It might be catchy. It started with a "Service Shifter" message and then lit up every CEL on the dash. The truck then turned up the radio volume, turned on the wipers of its own accord, kicked the engine fan to full speed, and lost power steering, and the gauges stopped working. The dash stated: "Service transmission continue in D. Do not shift or turn engine off. Until you reach a desired location. You may not be able to shift again until serviced."

I was able to drive it home without power steering. I checked the codes and got the following (21 codes in all): U0001, U0402, U11E4, U0121, P1DD, U02, U0415, U0416, U0101, U110C, U1110, U1412, U110E, U0155, U0212, U11BC.

Belt is good, easy to check grounds are tight...

And I give up.
I don't have the time to track down the grounds and check connections between the ECU, etc. Taking it to a diagnostic mechanic tomorrow.

Anyone else had this happen? And more importantly identify a probable issue.

The picture below was taken while in traffic, and the engine was still running, driving it without power steering.

View attachment 159025

The two biggest problems to cause crazy electrical issues are a leaking back window and a bad battery. They aren't the only ones but they are the most common.

 

[Vulpes]

The two biggest problems to cause crazy electrical issues are a leaking back window and a bad battery. They aren't the only ones but they are the most common.

I heard about the module behind the rear seat getting wet from the leaky rear windows and fritzing and the bad battery. Battery is currently 12.8 volts, but will be load tested soon. It's going to get diagnosed for gremlins on Monday. So we'll see!

Cellphone video of the dead gauge cluster in traffic.

 

[RamCares]

Sorry to hear of the trouble you’re experiencing. If you decide to address this concern with your certified Ram dealer, please feel free to send us a private message. We would be happy to provide you with an additional layer of assistance for that process.

Callie
Ram Cares

 

[Vulpes]

I heard about the module behind the rear seat getting wet from the leaky rear windows and fritzing and the bad battery. Battery is currently 12.8 volts, but will be load tested soon. It's going to get diagnosed for gremlins on Monday. So we'll see!

Cellphone video of the dead gauge cluster in traffic.

Got word back from the shop, wiring harnesses are good. No corrosion on any connectors, and they were also cleaned during the process. The notorious RF hub behind the rear seat has no signs of water damage. I should be able to pickup the truck today and hope to ask more questions in person.

So it is a mystery still, on why the BUS CAN stopped communicating, which bugs me. It only did it the one time.

I wonder if I should look into something like an Autel or the HF Scanner. Maybe it's time to learn a new skill, since "mini" internets on cars are the way things are going.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Got word back from the shop, wiring harnesses are good. No corrosion on any connectors, and they were also cleaned during the process. The notorious RF hub behind the rear seat has no signs of water damage. I should be able to pickup the truck today and hope to ask more questions in person.

So it is a mystery still, on why the BUS CAN stopped communicating, which bugs me. It only did it the one time.

I wonder if I should look into something like an Autel or the HF Scanner. Maybe it's time to learn a new skill, since "mini" internets on cars are the way things are going.

When you got home and shut it off, were you able to restart it and have it drive normal? Unfortunately, most shops aren't going to troubleshoot a problem they can't replicate.
I'd probystart by making sure battery cables are clean and tight, and check the power connections in the under hood fuse box. There have been reports of some of them working loose. Could be a loose connection, and you hit s bump just right in the freeway to temporarily knock it loose to cause all the problem. By the time you got home it had jostled back to making a connection, and the shop couldn't replicate

 

[Vulpes]

When you got home and shut it off, were you able to restart it and have it drive normal? Unfortunately, most shops aren't going to troubleshoot a problem they can't replicate.
I'd probystart by making sure battery cables are clean and tight, and check the power connections in the under hood fuse box. There have been reports of some of them working loose. Could be a loose connection, and you hit s bump just right in the freeway to temporarily knock it loose to cause all the problem. By the time you got home it had jostled back to making a connection, and the shop couldn't replicate

I was able to restart it when I got home it it has operated without incident since then. I'll try checking the TIPM like you suggested when I get a few minutes.

I picked up the truck today, had a chat with the technician, and they checked harnesses for continuity and looked at connectors, but did not find the gremlin. They also didn't charge me, since they felt there was no resolution. I had them go ahead and clear the codes, but they felt CAN BUS issue might pop back up.

 

[Vulpes]

I was able to restart it when I got home it it has operated without incident since then. I'll try checking the TIPM like you suggested when I get a few minutes.

I picked up the truck today, had a chat with the technician, and they checked harnesses for continuity and looked at connectors, but did not find the gremlin. They also didn't charge me, since they felt there was no resolution. I had them go ahead and clear the codes, but they felt CAN BUS issue might pop back up.

I was able to restart it when I got home it it has operated without incident since then. I'll try checking the TIPM like you suggested when I get a few minutes.

I picked up the truck today, had a chat with the technician, and they checked harnesses for continuity and looked at connectors, but did not find the gremlin. They also didn't charge me, since they felt there was no resolution. I had them go ahead and clear the codes, but they felt CAN BUS issue might pop back up.

When you got home and shut it off, were you able to restart it and have it drive normal? Unfortunately, most shops aren't going to troubleshoot a problem they can't replicate.
I'd probystart by making sure battery cables are clean and tight, and check the power connections in the under hood fuse box. There have been reports of some of them working loose. Could be a loose connection, and you hit s bump just right in the freeway to temporarily knock it loose to cause all the problem. By the time you got home it had jostled back to making a connection, and the shop couldn't replicate

When you said power connections on the TIPM, was that in reference to the plugs underneath it?

Just checked the topside of the TIPM, and all the fuses and relays, and a couple of the relays and the larger fuses might have been elevated by a millimeter or so, so pushed them back down straight. The post connections on the side of TIPM were all very tight, but took them apart and checked for corrosion, but they were all shiny and got tightened down again. Checked the main ground and it was shiny and tight.

So I'll drive it a bit and see what happens...

 

[Vulpes]

Several members suggested Alldata, so I got a subscription, and pulled more information on the codes. AD also shows the wiring diagrams. I am having to learn this as I go, but it looks like the Controller Area Network (CAN) went down. I kinda, sorta, think all these things have the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) in common. Is that it? I dunno, but from suggestions here, I made sure all fuses and relays are seated.

Maybe this information can help others. I'll keep reading, and then read some more. So far the truck drives fine after having connectors and wiring checked and making sure all items are seated and without corrosion in the TIPM.

Will check again for codes this weekend.

U0001	Air Suspension Control Module (ASCM) - Can C Bus
	Full Time Drivetrain Control Module (DCTM) - Can C Bus
	Hybrid Control Processor Module (HCP) - Can C Bus
	Instrument Cluster - Can C Bus
	Integrated Trailer Brake Module (ITBM) - Can C Bus
	Occupant Classification Module (OCM) - High Speed CAN Communication Bus
	Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) - High Speed CAN Communication Bus
	Part Time Drivetrain Control Module (DCTM) - Can C Bus
	Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Can C Bus
	Radio Frequency Module (RF Hub) - Can C Bus
	Security Gateway Module (SGW) - Can C Bus
	Steering Column Control Module (SCCM) - Can C Bus
	Transmission Control Module (TCM) (8HP50/850RE) - Can C Bus
	Transmission Control Module (TCM) (8HP75) - Can C Bus
U0101	Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Lost Communication w/ TCM
U0121	Active Vibration Cancellation Module (AVC) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Adaptive Front Lighting System Module - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Air Suspension Control Module (ASCM) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Body Control Module (BSM) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Drivers Assistance System Module - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Electric Power Steering Module (EPS) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Full Time Drivetrain Control Module (DCTM) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Hybrid Control Processor Module (HCP) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Instrument Cluster - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Integrated Trailer Brake Module (ITBM) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Park Assist Module (PTS/PAM) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Part Time Drivetrain Control Module (DCTM) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System - ABS Control Module
	Radio - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Radio Frequency Module (RF Hub) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Transmission Control Module (TCM) (8HP50/850RE) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
	Transmission Control Module (TCM) (8HP75) - Lost Communication w/ Anti - Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
U0155	Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Lost Communication w/ Cluster/CCN
U02	Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) - Lost Communication w/ Passenger Door Module
	Amplifier (AMP) - Lost Communication w/ Passenger Door Module
	Body Control Module (BSM) - Lost Communication w/ Passenger Door Module
	Driver Door Module (DDM) (DMFL/R) - Lost Communication w/ Passenger Door Module
	Radio - Lost Communication w/ Passenger Door Module
U0212	Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Lost Communication w/ SCM
U0402	Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Implausible Data Received from TCM
	U0402-00
U0415	Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Implausible Data Received from ABS
U0416	U0416-IMPLAUSIBLE DATA RECEIVED FROM ESP
	NOTE: Treat this DTC as an IMPLAUSIBLE SIGNAL DTC when performing the COMMUNICATION DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE.
	The COMMUNICATION DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE MUST be performed before replacing any component(s) or module(s). Perform the COMMUNICATION DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Body Control (BCM) /Standard Procedure).
U110C	U110C-LOST FUEL LEVEL MESSAGE
	Always perform the PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).
U110E	U110E-00-LOST AMBIENT TEMPERATURE MESSAGE
	Always perform the PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).
U1110	U1110-LOST VEHICLE SPEED MESSAGE
	Always perform the PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).
U11BC	U11BC-LOST BRAKE SWITCH MESSAGE
	Always perform the PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE before proceeding. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).
U11E4	Transmission Control Module (TCM) (8HP50/850RE) - CAN Communication Messages Missing
	Transmission Control Module (TCM) (8HP75) - CAN Communication Messages Missing
U1412	Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Implausible Vehicle Speed Signal Received
	U1412-00

 

[Vulpes]

No more codes now, and have been carrying my OBD scan tool with me. Check it about every other day. Not sure what happened or why. Took it off-roading this weekend without incident.

 

[ramdude2023]

No more codes now, and have been carrying my OBD scan tool with me. Check it about every other day. Not sure what happened or why. Took it off-roading this weekend without incident.

No more problems since? I’m still fighting all of the problems with mine yet.

 

[lineskinner]

When you said power connections on the TIPM, was that in reference to the plugs underneath it?

Just checked the topside of the TIPM, and all the fuses and relays, and a couple of the relays and the larger fuses might have been elevated by a millimeter or so, so pushed them back down straight. The post connections on the side of TIPM were all very tight, but took them apart and checked for corrosion, but they were all shiny and got tightened down again. Checked the main ground and it was shiny and tight.

So I'll drive it a bit and see what happens...

I'm having the exact same issue on my 2019 big horn ( U0001 ). Planning on scheduling an appointment for service again and see what they say. It's happened twice before and they changed the battery the first time the second time they unplugged accessories I hardwired in fuse panel, like dash cam and radar detector. No problems for several months until last week. I'll post with an update.

 

[Vulpes]

No more problems since? I’m still fighting all of the problems with mine yet.

My No BUS CAN issue has not come back. I don't know what caused it and neither did the shop that checked as many connectors and grounds as they could.

I did later find a wire with nicked insulation in the loom under the bed and sealed the wire with Permatex liquid wire repair. I noticed the flex loom cover had a small hole, it was a PITA getting to it.

Maybe unrelated, but my EPS died shortly after this. I replaced it, but made sure to use dielectric grease on all connectors. This will be my standard practice every time I take apart and put back together a connector.

Not sure what you've tried so far, but starting with the basics, check all grounds for corrosion/tightening, negative battery lead for resistance, battery load test, all fuses seated in the TIPM.

 

[Vulpes]

I'm having the exact same issue on my 2019 big horn ( U0001 ). Planning on scheduling an appointment for service again and see what they say. It's happened twice before and they changed the battery the first time the second time they unplugged accessories I hardwired in fuse panel, like dash cam and radar detector. No problems for several months until last week. I'll post with an update.

These issues can be terribly difficult to diagnose. As an example here is a schematic of just the grounds, every ground is a potential issue. Hope you get yours resolved and share a fix here.

 

[ramdude2023]

The dealership contacted me today about my truck and said they think they figured it out. They said they think it’s the backside of the CAN BUS that’s causing the fits. The bad news is that it’s on back order for a couple months. So I suppose I’ll check back in a few months with hopefully good news.

 

[Ellisstrong]

My truck is at the dealer currently with some of these same symptoms. No bus, all kinds of service systems warnings, engine running with loss of certain electrical functions and gauges but truck still drives normal until it cuts off while driving after 5-6 minutes.

 

[Vulpes]

The dealership contacted me today about my truck and said they think they figured it out. They said they think it’s the backside of the CAN BUS that’s causing the fits. The bad news is that it’s on back order for a couple months. So I suppose I’ll check back in a few months with hopefully good news.

Did they mean it's the BCM (Body Control Module)? Hope they found the actual problem, these CAN BUS issues are really hard to solve. It would be kind of like my laptop hooked up to the internet, but my laptop stops working and then causes the whole internet to go down.

Here's an example of how one bad module can cause 18 months of headache: