Wheel Spacers

[HSKR R/T]

Bringin it back again…

So I’ve decided to keep my trucks suspension stock, putting KO2’s (275/60/20’s) on my Ram Sports stock 20’s and adding 1.5” spacers.
Shop mounting them specializes in trucks and lift kits etc.. here in Canada it would seem they don’t have access to BORA or coyote. They suggested a set for Chevy with the 78.1 bore.. I don’t want to bring up any old grudge matches but should I go with the product they’re offering or should I go with an Amazon product that’s maybe half the price but proper 77.8 bore.. and just hope the quality is good and there’s no issues?

If you are going with hub centric spacers, the 78.1 bore will not work without grinding/maxhining down the hub ring on the spacer where the wheel sits. And for my, the Coyote spacers had the same issue because they werent the correct huh bore size for the factory Built to Serve wheels.

Buy the Bora spacers yourself and install them yourself. No need to pay a shop to install wheel spacers.

If this specialty shop is recommending using Chevy spacers, I would not use them as they obviously dont know what they are doing

 

[Royal]

If you are going with hub centric spacers, the 78.1 bore will not work without grinding/maxhining down the hub ring on the spacer where the wheel sits. And for my, the Coyote spacers had the same issue because they werent the correct huh bore size for the factory Built to Serve wheels.

Buy the Bora spacers yourself and install them yourself. No need to pay a shop to install wheel spacers.

If this specialty shop is recommending using Chevy spacers, I would not use them as they obviously dont know what they are doing

@GraniteSport No grinding needed. I have the Yitamotor 1.5". They fit perfectly. People need to understand what 0.3mm really is. In valve clearance its a cavern, in hubcentric terms it doesn't exist.

 

[WXman]

Let me ask y'all an opinion.

I have these spacers (picture below) from BORA. They are 0.50" slip on, hub centric spacers. I've used them at all four corners and have had zero issues with them. However, I'm currently not running them because they're on the fringe of not being within spec per BORA.

BORA says you need to be able to turn the lug nut 7 full turns in order to have the correct clamping force to be safe (see photo below). When I use the spacers I can get exactly 7 turns but no more. Since I tow a trailer occasionally I'm concerned about possible lug stud failure. Technically I'm safe per BORA, but just barely. What would you do?

 

[silver billet]

Let me ask y'all an opinion.

I have these spacers (picture below) from BORA. They are 0.50" slip on, hub centric spacers. I've used them at all four corners and have had zero issues with them. However, I'm currently not running them because they're on the fringe of not being within spec per BORA.

BORA says you need to be able to turn the lug nut 7 full turns in order to have the correct clamping force to be safe (see photo below). When I use the spacers I can get exactly 7 turns but no more. Since I tow a trailer occasionally I'm concerned about possible lug stud failure. Technically I'm safe per BORA, but just barely. What would you do?

View attachment 157060

I'm wondering that myself as I've been wanting to get spacers. For myself I might go 1" in the rear and 3/4" in the front so that way I get studs, but that probably involves trimming the factory studs down. And for the 3/4 inch I'm worried that there is not enough material there to hold the new stud in place as it looks like they're just pressed in place.

Maybe the best option is 3/8" inch all around. But then I'm kinda thinking they're not all that visible either so.

This is why I haven't yet bought anything, can't make decision here to save my life.

You can also get longer studs off amazon or whereever, just pull your factory studs out and replace them with ones that are like an inch longer.

 

[HSKR R/T]

@GraniteSport No grinding needed. I have the Yitamotor 1.5". They fit perfectly. People need to understand what 0.3mm really is. In valve clearance its a cavern, in hubcentric terms it doesn't exist.

Guess it depends on the wheels. White I didn't break out the caliper to verify, it sure as hell didn't work with my Built to Serve wheels

 

[HSKR R/T]

I'm wondering that myself as I've been wanting to get spacers. For myself I might go 1" in the rear and 3/4" in the front so that way I get studs, but that probably involves trimming the factory studs down. And for the 3/4 inch I'm worried that there is not enough material there to hold the new stud in place as it looks like they're just pressed in place.

Maybe the best option is 3/8" inch all around. But then I'm kinda thinking they're not all that visible either so.

This is why I haven't yet bought anything, can't make decision here to save my life.

You can also get longer studs off amazon or whereever, just pull your factory studs out and replace them with ones that are like an inch longer.

The 3/4" spacers are bolt on. You will have to trim factory studs

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

anyone with a limited off road group running spacers? (Air suspension)

 

[db9]

BORA 1.5 front, 1.75 rear

 

[MattB07]

Guess it depends on the wheels. White I didn't break out the caliper to verify, it sure as hell didn't work with my Built to Serve wheels

I think I'm experiencing the same issue HSKR R/T did. I bought 1.5" spacers off Amazon which "fit my vehicle" - according to Amazon with the spacer's stated bore of 78.1. I installed the spacers on my Rebel with the OE wheel/tire package. The spacers sat flush against the bearing assembly but I didn't really pay attention to how well the wheels then secured to the spacer - I just torqued the lugs using the star pattern to 130#. I've since driven on these spacers for several months without issue. Fast forward to this weekend; I purchased new 35" tires and had them installed on TRX take-off 18X9 wheels. When the technician went to put the new wheels/tires back on the truck, he noticed the wheel was not sitting flush against the spacer. We stripped all the spacers off and began testing how well each spacer's lip inserted into the back of each wheel - both on the original Rebel wheels as well as on the TRX set. Each spacer was just a hair too large to sit flush inside the wheel. Apparently I was too careless to notice when I first installed the spacers that the wheel did not fit precisely over the lip of the spacer.
I'm under the impression anyone could have made the same mistake that I did and just tighten their lugs without confirming the precise fit, therefore assuming their 78.1 spacers are "good enough". I will NOT be using these spacers again and will upgrade to Bora - with the exact 77.8 spec.

 

[RamAddic]

I’m looking buy the correct size Bora spacers for a +24 offset wheel with new 285/55R22 tires ( 11.6 width ) and I’m leaning towards .375 ( 9.57mm) spacers to hopefully get the tire flush or a hair outside of the fenders ( no factory flares ). I’m trying not to go up to the 1/2” if it’s not needed. Thoughts ?

 

[HSKR R/T]

I’m looking buy the correct size Bora spacers for a +24 offset wheel with new 285/55R22 tires ( 11.6 width ) and I’m leaning towards .375 ( 9.57mm) spacers to hopefully get the tire flush or a hair outside of the fenders ( no factory flares ). I’m trying not to go up to the 1/2” if it’s not needed. Thoughts ?

If you are buying aftermarket wheels, why not just get the proper backspacing to get the results you want. Also the tire you have in your wheels will make a difference one what you need to get the tires flush

 

[RamAddic]

If you are buying aftermarket wheels, why not just get the proper backspacing to get the results you want. Also the tire you have in your wheels will make a difference one what you need to get the tires flush

In an ideal world I’d agree with you but if the one or two sets of wheels you really like are only made in one or two offsets you make it work. The only other wheel I liked came in a -44 offset which i would never even consider .

 

[MattB07]

Finally completed my wheel/tire/spacer upgrade
2" Ready Lift front-level w upper control arm replacement
TRX wheels (18X9 +19)
35X12.5 BFG KO2
1.5" Hub Centric Spacers (77.8MM bore...... critically important, do not get fooled for 88.1MM!!!)

I was between the 35" tires and 295/70/18 and fortunately the tire shop accommodated me to try on both. Prior to the test, I was convinced I would go with the 295s. But after testing, I felt the 35s look a lot better (just my opinion).

The 35 inch tires appeared to fit without spacers at first. Slight clearance between the upper control arm and inside of tire. However, at full turn, the inside of the tire rubbed against the arm - not at the ball-joint but further down the arm. No additional rubbing or trimming of original plastic/flaps. But there isn't much clearance there, either.

In my opinion, the pictures don't do the truck justice. Viewing other owners' pictures as well as my own I think 35s look a little too large and stuffed inside the wheel well. However, in person for whatever reason, 35s are just right. The 295s still looked too 'stock', to me.

 

[kmorrow63]

Anyone have before and after pictures with the 3/8" spacers? Looked and didn't see any myself...

 

[Black19]

I just added 3/8” Bora’s. Still not sure if it’s enough to get the look I was hoping for. Stock wheels.

 

[kmorrow63]

I just added 3/8” Bora’s. Still not sure if it’s enough to get the look I was hoping for. Stock wheels.

Looks nice, might be about right for me. Where did you buy your spacers from?

 

[Black19]

Looks nice, might be about right for me. Where did you buy your spacers from?

Bora. A little pricey, but not something I wanted to cheap out on!!

 

[silver billet]

I just added 3/8” Bora’s. Still not sure if it’s enough to get the look I was hoping for. Stock wheels.

How many turns/threads did you have left when you were putting your wheel nuts back on? I like the 3/8 look but a little worried there might be not enough thread anymore to safely hold the wheel on.

 

[Black19]

How many turns/threads did you have left when you were putting your wheel nuts back on? I like the 3/8 look but a little worried there might be not enough thread anymore to safely hold the wheel on.

I had 6 full turns to get them hand tight. Then I tourqed them which allowed some more turns…though I don’t think much, maybe a 1/2 or 3/4 turn more.

 

[WXman]

How many turns/threads did you have left when you were putting your wheel nuts back on? I like the 3/8 look but a little worried there might be not enough thread anymore to safely hold the wheel on.

I had 6 full turns to get them hand tight. Then I tourqed them which allowed some more turns…though I don’t think much, maybe a 1/2 or 3/4 turn more.

That's been my delimma. I've had them for several months but I haven't run them this summer while towing my trailer because I'm unsure of their safety. The BORA instructions said to make sure you can get 7 full turns of the lug nuts. I can get 6 and then torque it to 7 with a torque wrench so it's barely at the spec they list. But, is their spec written by an engineer? How do we know 7 turns is grabbing enough thread to be safe on a 5,600 lb. vehicle with a 6,500 lb. trailer behind it?