Wheel Spacers

[silver billet]

That's been my delimma. I've had them for several months but I haven't run them this summer while towing my trailer because I'm unsure of their safety. The BORA instructions said to make sure you can get 7 full turns of the lug nuts. I can get 6 and then torque it to 7 with a torque wrench so it's barely at the spec they list. But, is their spec written by an engineer? How do we know 7 turns is grabbing enough thread to be safe on a 5,600 lb. vehicle with a 6,500 lb. trailer behind it?

I'm not an engineer, but my guess would be that as long as every thread in the nut is on the stud, and it's torqued properly, then having excess stud past the end of the nut doesn't change anything WRT a nut coming loose prematurely, though of course having excess stud would take longer for a nut that did come loose to actually fall off.

I guess one way to find out would be to tow for 30 mins, stop and check/retorque. If no issues, try for another hour and so on. If we can tow for 3+ hours without having a loose nut I'm sure they're fine. But yeah, that's exactly my issue too, worried about towing.

 

[HSKR R/T]

This is why I went with bolt on spacers. I had to shave my factory lugs a little to prevent hitting inside of wheel, but no worries.abiut thread engagement

 

[Dat_Ram13]

I just installed the Coyote 2" spacers. The paper/instructions that came with them said to torque to 85-95 ft/lbs. However, I know our wheels are supposed to be 130 ft/lbs. I did 95 on the spacers and 130 on the wheels, but honestly, the instructions just said to torque the lugs to the 85-95, so maybe it meant all the lugs, but I took it as meaning the lugs that attach the spacers to the hub. Now that I think about it, it probably would have made more sense for me to do the opposite, and torque spacers to 130 and wheels to 85-95. Anyways, should I just go ahead and torque everything to 130?

Sorry to bring up an old post on this thread. Did you have any issues with the studs on the Coyote being too short? I saw one other post regarding that stating they were too short and ended up not using them. Just wanted to check before pulling the trigger on Coyote.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Sorry to bring up an old post on this thread. Did you have any issues with the studs on the Coyote being too short? I saw one other post regarding that stating they were too short and ended up not using them. Just wanted to check before pulling the trigger on Coyote.

I tried using Coyote spacers. This was back in 2020. The ones they sent me wouldnt clear the hub, only to find out they sent wrong ones. Next sat, actually for the RAM, were a little loose around the hub. Was about 1mm gap all the way around. Kind of defeats the purpose of hubcenteic spacers. Sent them back and bought some Bora spacers. Sure they cost s little more, but they fit perfectly.

 

[lewdogg21]

Red or blue loctite? I thought I read blue when I've read this entire thread before but red being more permanent (sans heat) makes the most sense. My KSP 1.5" spacers arrive tonight so either tomorrow or Friday I'm having them installed.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Red is usually harder to get off. I've used both.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Red or blue loctite? I thought I read blue when I've read this entire thread before but red being more permanent (sans heat) makes the most sense. My KSP 1.5" spacers arrive tonight so either tomorrow or Friday I'm having them installed.

Just torque properly, and recheck torque after a few hundred miles. Had my Bora spacers in for over two years, with no loctite, and they are still torqued properly

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

Red or blue loctite? I thought I read blue when I've read this entire thread before but red being more permanent (sans heat) makes the most sense. My KSP 1.5" spacers arrive tonight so either tomorrow or Friday I'm having them installed.

The KSP ones come with red loctite.

 

[Jeffjad]

Just torque properly, and recheck torque after a few hundred miles. Had my Bora spacers in for over two years, with no loctite, and they are still torqued properly

I've been running my Bora's without loctite for over two years as well with no issues. If I remember correctly, Bora specifically said NOT to use loctite.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

I've been running my Bora's without loctite for over two years as well with no issues. If I remember correctly, Bora specifically said NOT to use loctite.

I don't see anything on Bora about using or not. It doesn't hurt to use.

 

[Jeffjad]

I don't see anything on Bora about using or not. It doesn't hurt to use.

They may have removed that verbage in the instructions since I bought mine a few years ago. Below is a post from another member back in 2021 ...........

"So I emailed Motorsport (BORA) about the use of Loctite and here is the response I got (for a company that is well known with high-end spacers, I feel their responses are a little less then professional).. The responses haven't been rude, delayed or uninformative but they don't seem as professional and the lack proper grammar. I'm not a grammar police kind of guy, but when a company can't write an email with correct grammar, spelling, punctuation and odd rhetorical questions it makes me wonder. Now I sound like a KAREN haha.

"The hardware is torqued to over 100 lbs. if anything is coming loose do you think a little loctite is going to hold anything together? It will do nothing

The studs in the spacer are pressed in. Sometimes when going to remove lug nuts it can hold it up enough that the stud breaks loose inside the spacer. Then there is real trouble. It’s not often but it does happen. Lots of guys use air tools when we specifically say not to. Air tools plus loctite is a bad combo. "

So they never addressed my question about voiding warranty if you use Loctite, but I do agree with some of the things he did say. But what kind of company says "do you think a little Loctite is going to hold anything together"

Anyhow there you go, that is Motorsports Tech (BORAS) answer to why they don't tell you to use Loctite.... Why it voids warranty, well they didn't say."

 

[Jeffjad]

Post in thread 'Wheel Spacers' Wheel Spacers

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Obviously they don't understand Loctite

"The hardware is torqued to over 100 lbs. if anything is coming loose do you think a little loctite is going to hold anything together? It will do nothing

 

[Jeffjad]

Obviously they don't understand Loctite

"The hardware is torqued to over 100 lbs. if anything is coming loose do you think a little loctite is going to hold anything together? It will do nothing

Definitely a shady response from Motorsports Tech. I just remember my instructions saying something about loctite voiding the warranty. With all that said, I didn't use any and I personally haven't had any issues with lugs coming loose for over 2 years now. If it gives someone "peace of mind" then go for it, use some loctite .

 

[lewdogg21]

Before and after with the 1.5" KSP spacers. Front wheel is turned out slightly. In the original photo (very bottom pic) the back tire was not visible. It looks better.

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

Before and after with the 1.5" KSP spacers. Front wheel is turned out slightly. In the original photo (very bottom pic) the back tire was not visible. It looks better.


View attachment 179349 View attachment 179350 View attachment 179351

Looks good!

 

[Bigdumps]

Bit of an old thread. But, I have 285/55r22 Micky Thompson Baja boss, with the 2" Mopar lift. Just ordered 2" hubcentric spacers to be installed Monday.

Should I expect any rubbing or negative ride quality?

It all came about because I found a set of rough country sf1 flares painted to match for 80$. So naturally couldn't pass on the deal, and I dont really like much aftermarket rims. B

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

That's like a -32 offset, so that's a good possibility.

 

[Bigdumps]

That's like a -32 offset, so that's a good possibility.

Yea it's a good -31/32 offset if you take the factory rims into account. Should equate to 1.2" off poke. That's good to fill out the rough country flares. That doesn't work, I get different rims or undo the changes lom