What did you do to your Ram today???

[PCGuy]

ugh, Intermittent problems can be hard to track on. please share what you find!

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

ugh, Intermittent problems can be hard to track on. please share what you find!

It is extremely helpfull if you can record live data in stituaions that are intermittent just a thought...

 

[70runner]

Yessir. After a total of an hour and a half or so, it went away on it's own. Still going to plug it in tomorrow and see if there are any stored codes.

After several years with an assortment of electrical gremlins in my 21 Rebel, I came to the conclusion that battery condition is likely a significant factor. Particularly gremlins that seem to suddenly appear/disappear. The Rebel also had a parasitic drain about 5-6 times the 30mA threshold considered nominal for modern vehicles. Dealer couldn't find the problem and I got tired of leaving the truck with them for extended periods, so put it on a Noco Genius trickle charger. No further electrical gremlins. Use the same charger on my 25 Rebel (and older mopars) which is, so far, gremlin free.

 

[AdamChandler]

oh yeah. if you do it yourself watch the blau auto video
i even typed out the procedures and the torque specs and torque pattern and temperature and stuff on some scrap photo papers from my 2026 calendar project.
i mean i was making a laundry list of things (2 letter sized paper long) i needed to do anyways lolll

doing everything myself one person makes the checking fluid level step a bit tricky.

last time I did everything but coolant and ATF. It was pricey grabbing all of that fluid. Coolant was hard, I am going to wait until spring to do the transmission though. it's too damn cold outside.

 

[boogielander]

last time I did everything but coolant and ATF. It was pricey grabbing all of that fluid. Coolant was hard, I am going to wait until spring to do the transmission though. it's too damn cold outside.
View attachment 209442

yeah it's a pain in the rear to bring temperature up to check fluid when it's cold.
but also pain in the rear to bring temperature up to check fluid when it's hot.

 

[boogielander]

someone talking about euro reliability?
the euro 4 bangers are real pain in the rear... forgot which exact part i was replacing on a 4banger e class a while back, some sort of plastic hose/ pipe. The intake manifold has to come out... whereas in Japanese 4 bangers they're just there. my housemate's GLE (2.0 4banger) just had to get the engine rebuilt at 15k miles. merc 6 cyls are the ones I'd get if I had to get one.
the vw 4 bangers turbo are okay, but need to be driven HARD or else there will be carbon build up. Then it's walnut blast time. 10 years ago that'd cost me about $600 to do, not sure about now. my mk6 GTI also went through 4 water pumps in the 4 years I had it too. Love GTI but i wouldn't do it again lol.
the BMW turbo straight 6 are good as long as they are not N54 LOL but the problem with modern turbo BMWs are not the engine, but other electrical and material things. If it's a M then usually they're fine in the material department.
BUT, NOTHING beats the S54 found on E46 M, or the S65 NA V8 found on E9x M, or the S85 NA V10 found on E60 M. sorry but those NA engines are just more fun to drive, sound better, and more mechanical than overly electronic feel of the F&G cars of modern era. (I mean, the S55 on F8x M... sounds bad from factory and even Akrapovic and SuperSprint can't fix them)


so... as much as I like euro cars... the only turbo 4banger i'd get is Porsche, the rest, as I tell my customers when they ask me about buying Euro: lease, not buy. Or, buy extended warranty and keep all records.

 

[MarPar]

After several years with an assortment of electrical gremlins in my 21 Rebel, I came to the conclusion that battery condition is likely a significant factor. Particularly gremlins that seem to suddenly appear/disappear. The Rebel also had a parasitic drain about 5-6 times the 30mA threshold considered nominal for modern vehicles. Dealer couldn't find the problem and I got tired of leaving the truck with them for extended periods, so put it on a Noco Genius trickle charger. No further electrical gremlins. Use the same charger on my 25 Rebel (and older mopars) which is, so far, gremlin free.

I have a NOCO for the Mopars as well. Thing is, this is a brand new truck with 40 miles! Btw, you're on B bodies with the same handle as here, correct?

So i plugged in my scanner and it wouldn't read it. Normally, it automatically picks up whatever brand the vehicle is, but this time it asked me Dodge, Ram or Jeep. I entered each of the three and it wouldn't read it. The scanner isn't that old, maybe 2 years. Wonder if the architecture is just too new.

 

[PCGuy]

It is extremely helpfull if you can record live data in stituaions that are intermittent just a thought...

Yes, you are spot on. Hopefully RAM does the needed data capture.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

someone talking about euro reliability?
the euro 4 bangers are real pain in the rear... forgot which exact part i was replacing on a 4banger e class a while back, some sort of plastic hose/ pipe. The intake manifold has to come out... whereas in Japanese 4 bangers they're just there. my housemate's GLE (2.0 4banger) just had to get the engine rebuilt at 15k miles. merc 6 cyls are the ones I'd get if I had to get one.
the vw 4 bangers turbo are okay, but need to be driven HARD or else there will be carbon build up. Then it's walnut blast time. 10 years ago that'd cost me about $600 to do, not sure about now. my mk6 GTI also went through 4 water pumps in the 4 years I had it too. Love GTI but i wouldn't do it again lol.
the BMW turbo straight 6 are good as long as they are not N54 LOL but the problem with modern turbo BMWs are not the engine, but other electrical and material things. If it's a M then usually they're fine in the material department.
BUT, NOTHING beats the S54 found on E46 M, or the S65 NA V8 found on E9x M, or the S85 NA V10 found on E60 M. sorry but those NA engines are just more fun to drive, sound better, and more mechanical than overly electronic feel of the F&G cars of modern era. (I mean, the S55 on F8x M... sounds bad from factory and even Akrapovic and SuperSprint can't fix them)


so... as much as I like euro cars... the only turbo 4banger i'd get is Porsche, the rest, as I tell my customers when they ask me about buying Euro: lease, not buy. Or, buy extended warranty and keep all records.

Yes, where else would you go for info on BMW's ? The last of the e38's 740ish were awsome cars.
Porsche 944 Turbo LEGENDARY! E46 M3 without SMG but with 6 speed manual would be dreamy and last forever
Enough with BMW's or I'll start looking for one

 

[HSKR R/T]

Yes, where else would you go for info on BMW's ? The last of the e38's 740ish were awsome cars.
Porsche 944 Turbo LEGENDARY! E46 M3 without SMG but with 6 speed manual would be dreamy and last forever
Enough with BMW's or I'll start looking for one

Modern M series with the X-drive are some badass cars as well. Local friend has a M3 comp, stock block he was pushing 1000 whp with just upgraded turbos, downpipe and tune. He's since built it a little stronger, makes ~1500 whp runs 5's in the 1/8 mile, and its his daily driver.

 

[BowDown]

The mentality that turbo 6's cant make power and be reliaable is 90's thinking. Theres 800whp stock internals hurricane HOs running around now, thats ~1000+ flywheel. Turbo 6s of today arent the same as the 90's.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

Modern M series with the X-drive are some badass cars as well. Local friend has a M3 comp, stock block he was pushing 1000 whp with just upgraded turbos, downpipe and tune. He's since built it a little stronger, makes ~1500 whp runs 5's in the 1/8 mile, and its his daily driver.

I don't like the X drive but that just me being old. They have made different variants of the competion edition over the year starting with the e36 possibly e34 but don't remember. Its been a while since I've worked on BMW's so my brain isn't current. I think a 135 would be a lot of fun if I couldn't have a E46 M3.

 

[BowDown]

Modern M series with the X-drive are some badass cars as well. Local friend has a M3 comp, stock block he was pushing 1000 whp with just upgraded turbos, downpipe and tune. He's since built it a little stronger, makes ~1500 whp runs 5's in the 1/8 mile, and its his daily driver.

Agree
I know of many BMWs and Supras with nothing but upgraded turbos and a downpipe making 900+ whp all day long with no issues. Those using "stressing the block" logic, explain 3000whp vipers using the stock block and forged internals. The rod and crank journals are the stock size so these too shuld be blowing up left and right. Theres 2000whp stock block and 1300whp stock engine vipers being driven with no issues. I know people that put 10K miles a year on SBE vipers making 1300+whp and these peoples 10K a years miles are 70% wot, not put put'ng around town.

 

[BowDown]

I don't like the X drive but that just me being old. They have made different variants of the competion edition over the year starting with the e36 possibly e34 but don't remember. Its been a while since I've worked on BMW's so my brain isn't current. I think a 135 would be a lot of fun if I couldn't have a E46 M3.

You really need X drive at these power levels. The hurricane trucks in 2wd will burn the tires off every single time, the only way to put the power down is 4/all wheel wheel drive.
My car makes similar power to a TT coyote F150 but is 2000lbs lighter. I wont F with them from a dig because the all wheel drive changes everything

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

Agree
I know of many BMWs and Supras with nothing but upgraded turbos and a downpipe making 900+ whp all day long with no issues. Those using "stressing the block" logic, explain 3000whp vipers using the stock block and forged internals. The rod and crank journals are the stock size so these too shuld be blowing up left and right. Theres 2000whp stock block and 1300whp stock engine vipers being driven with no issues. I know people that put 10K miles a year on SBE vipers making 1300+whp and these peoples 10K a years miles are 70% wot, not put put'ng around town.

The variables here are endless and it needs some kind of guard rails. If we continue this way it becomes endless and mindless rants and thoughts

I get the engine is designed specifically for a turbo and putting a turbo on a non turbo engine is short lived except for a few

If I had a E46 M3 and a 335 both with 150k and had to drive coast to coast I'd take the M3 any day because I want to get there.

Supras are in a class by themselves. Ive changed turbos on a 335 and 535 both are a nightmare but doable at home.

How about we talk about our trucks now? I've got my mess almost finish for rear then I'm moving on to the front. Unfort unatly I have Christmas stuff tomorrow but I plan on making it short if possivble

 

[HSKR R/T]

The mentality that turbo 6's cant make power and be reliaable is 90's thinking. Theres 800whp stock internals hurricane HOs running around now, thats ~1000+ flywheel. Turbo 6s of today arent the same as the 90's.

There are 1000whp stock internal Hurricane HOs

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

I made some more progress and I got to use my Milwaukee M12 grease gun for the first time on my new sway bars.
Does everything look okay? It my first time working on the rear of the truck. I still have work to do on the air bags