5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

What did you do to your Ram today???

...at 7,343 miles had a local shop install the Pacbrake oil filter relocation kit #R160106 so I didn't have to get oily/dirty. Fumoto drain valve, Mobil 1 5W-20 and Mopar filter. I think I'll cap the drain nipple and secure with a hose clamp, for peace of mind in case an "act of nature" removes the clip and toggles the valve.
View attachment 207651 View attachment 207650
View attachment 207652
I haven't had the clip on mine for over a year. And take mine offroading. It's enough of a pain in the butt trying to open the valve by hand, I'd be surprised if something knocked it open while you are driving. Stand a batter chance of breaking the entire valve off
 
...at 7,343 miles had a local shop install the Pacbrake oil filter relocation kit #R160106 so I didn't have to get oily/dirty. Fumoto drain valve, Mobil 1 5W-20 and Mopar filter. I think I'll cap the drain nipple and secure with a hose clamp, for peace of mind in case an "act of nature" removes the clip and toggles the valve.
I’ve had Fumoto or EZ drain valves on every Cummins truck I’ve owned, but when I bought this half ton, I decided I wanted something more flush, given the lower ground clearance. Went with the FEMCO drain and I really like it. IMG_2640.jpeg
IMG_2579.jpeg
 
No mine are white lit only, white in the day too, which matches my white truck!
I bought some with both colors. I also bought a grill that had light inserts about height wise with the headlight are. Where the two white insert's are on your truck in the grille.
I liked it but they started getting to be too much for my style. I like the open TRX style or even some rebel models better
 
...at 7,343 miles had a local shop install the Pacbrake oil filter relocation kit #R160106 so I didn't have to get oily/dirty. Fumoto drain valve, Mobil 1 5W-20 and Mopar filter. I think I'll cap the drain nipple and secure with a hose clamp, for peace of mind in case an "act of nature" removes the clip and toggles the valve.
View attachment 207651 View attachment 207650
View attachment 207652
that little tab works wonders by itself.
went through high vibration desert terrains, choppy washboards, million potholes in remote places up north and it stays. HIghly doubt it will fall off unless you run Vegas - Reno/ Mint 400, etc courses at race speed lol (even that I don't think it will fall off)
 
that little tab works wonders by itself.
went through high vibration desert terrains, choppy washboards, million potholes in remote places up north and it stays. HIghly doubt it will fall off unless you run Vegas - Reno/ Mint 400, etc courses at race speed lol (even that I don't think it will fall off)
I've been thinking about making oil changes easier. Working on Ford 6.0's and BMW's the auto Gods have sentenced me to a RAM 1500 to level out averages of easy oil changes.
My first car was a RX-7 which also places it on top of the engine. I think RAM engineers could have resolved this issue easily and cheaply but doesn't change my purchase. 🤪
 
I've been thinking about making oil changes easier. Working on Ford 6.0's and BMW's the auto Gods have sentenced me to a RAM 1500 to level out averages of easy oil changes.
My first car was a RX-7 which also places it on top of the engine. I think RAM engineers could have resolved this issue easily and cheaply but doesn't change my purchase. 🤪
The Hemi was designed around the 4th Gen Rams and LX cars. Oil filter placement was good on those vehicles. As suspension and drivetrain changed, they didn't change the design of the block, which they should because it's out dated design. On a 2wd RAM, it's easy oil changes. Only when you add in the 4wd components does it make oil filter access and placement poor. On the Dodge cars it's still and easy clean oil change.
 
...at 7,343 miles had a local shop install the Pacbrake oil filter relocation kit #R160106 so I didn't have to get oily/dirty. Fumoto drain valve, Mobil 1 5W-20 and Mopar filter. I think I'll cap the drain nipple and secure with a hose clamp, for peace of mind in case an "act of nature" removes the clip and toggles the valve.
View attachment 207651 View attachment 207650
View attachment 207652
I've been searching for the Pacbrake relocation kit, and their website doesn't recognize that number and they don't list anything for the Ram. Where did you get it?
 
The Hemi was designed around the 4th Gen Rams and LX cars. Oil filter placement was good on those vehicles. As suspension and drivetrain changed, they didn't change the design of the block, which they should because it's out dated design. On a 2wd RAM, it's easy oil changes. Only when you add in the 4wd components does it make oil filter access and placement poor. On the Dodge cars it's still and easy clean oil change.
and now I know... lol
 
Now that I'm well into the golden years, I've discovered DIY replacing standard Group 26/27 batteries (~30/50lbs) is a lower back wakeup call. Even worse Odyssey Group 27 batteries (we use in our older mopars) weigh nearly 70lbs. There's all manner of lifting tools which don't really reduce the back strain.

So got to thinking, can I use my 2 post lift to replace batteries. Used an extra lift pad extender that nearly fit inside some scrap 2x2 steel square tube (1/8 walls) for jig post. Also had some telescopic, perforated steel square tubing leftover from another project that could be a jig arm. All that was needed was a couple threaded hooks for the battery handles. Some cutting and welding, presto a $7 lift battery jig. Couple pix of mockup with Rebel to size the lift arm, final painted. The power cable/switch on top of the battery runs to a rear connector for my trailer winch.

battpuller_fitted2.jpg closeup hooks.jpg batterypuller_painted.jpg
 
Now that I'm well into the golden years, I've discovered DIY replacing standard Group 26/27 batteries (~30/50lbs) is a lower back wakeup call. Even worse Odyssey Group 27 batteries (we use in our older mopars) weigh nearly 70lbs. There's all manner of lifting tools which don't really reduce the back strain.

So got to thinking, can I use my 2 post lift to replace batteries. Used an extra lift pad extender that nearly fit inside some scrap 2x2 steel square tube (1/8 walls) for jig post. Also had some telescopic, perforated steel square tubing leftover from another project that could be a jig arm. All that was needed was a couple threaded hooks for the battery handles. Some cutting and welding, presto a $7 lift battery jig. Couple pix of mockup with Rebel to size the lift arm, final painted. The power cable/switch on top of the battery runs to a rear connector for my trailer winch.

View attachment 207719 View attachment 207720 View attachment 207722

I’ve used my 2-post lift to remove my large toolboxes out of the bed of my truck, but I would have never thought of this. Brilliant.
 
I've been thinking about making oil changes easier. Working on Ford 6.0's and BMW's the auto Gods have sentenced me to a RAM 1500 to level out averages of easy oil changes.
My first car was a RX-7 which also places it on top of the engine. I think RAM engineers could have resolved this issue easily and cheaply but doesn't change my purchase. 🤪
oh yeah i've been sh*tting on F150 Raptor filter locations and Ford design for the longest time and my friends laugh at me with the Ram 1500 drain and filter locations now.


still won't get a Ford or GM product period lol
 
Now that I'm well into the golden years, I've discovered DIY replacing standard Group 26/27 batteries (~30/50lbs) is a lower back wakeup call. Even worse Odyssey Group 27 batteries (we use in our older mopars) weigh nearly 70lbs. There's all manner of lifting tools which don't really reduce the back strain.

So got to thinking, can I use my 2 post lift to replace batteries. Used an extra lift pad extender that nearly fit inside some scrap 2x2 steel square tube (1/8 walls) for jig post. Also had some telescopic, perforated steel square tubing leftover from another project that could be a jig arm. All that was needed was a couple threaded hooks for the battery handles. Some cutting and welding, presto a $7 lift battery jig. Couple pix of mockup with Rebel to size the lift arm, final painted. The power cable/switch on top of the battery runs to a rear connector for my trailer winch.

View attachment 207719 View attachment 207720 View attachment 207722
wow this is one idea i've never thought off and this is genuinely great idea!

i can't count how many times I threw my back swapping batteries on lifted trucks lol
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top