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What did you do to your Ram today???

HSKR R/T said:
It's more than just speeding up the shifts, you also increase line pressure which applies more pressure on the clutches so they grab harder and don't slip as much. This is probably the more beneficial change for harder shift, and less clutch wear.
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Lol that reminds me of the time I raised the line pressure way to high. First it broke a carrier bearing, fixed that. Then it snapped a u-joint. So I had to back it off... it's a fine line between enough and to much pressure. Lol
 
HSKR R/T said:
These transmissions don't run hot. Not sure what you are even talking about with that. Mine runs between 170-190 daily driving. And the only time it gets over 185 is in slower speeds when there isn't as much airflow. The engineers don't want the transmissions running hot because it shortens the life, and would actually increase emissions by having more slip and higher engine RPMs.

Do you even know why your engine temps get over 200 in stop and go traffic, even with your 180 stay? If not, then your opinion is useless. If you do know but haven't made the necessary changes to prevent that then once again, why should anyone listen to your advice? And what exactly is the purpose of using a 180 thermostat? I run them in my Dakotas using the old Magnum 5.9L engines because it helps prevent detonation on the hotter tunes I have. But that's a less efficient engine that is prone to hot spots in the block and heads. There is absolutely zero benefit in using one on the Hemi.
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Hold on now, I haven't seen anyone say try this, no one gave advice. We are just talking about what we do.
 
MattG31 said:
Hold on now, I haven't seen anyone say try this, no one gave advice. We are just talking about what we do.
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Him calling people who don't have the same opinion as him "naysayers" is telling them they are wrong. I'll wait to see if he responds to say anything else about that though
 
HSKR R/T said:
Him calling people who don't have the same opinion as him "naysayers" is telling them they are wrong. I'll wait to see if he responds to say n
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I think, and of course can be wrong. He was more talking about people disagreeing with what I'm doing with no real experience in it or saying hey I've tried that, it didn't work and this is what happened. But again I could be wrong.
 
MattG31 said:
I think, and of course can be wrong. He was more talking about people disagreeing with what I'm doing with no real experience in it or saying hey I've tried that, it didn't work and this is what happened. But again I could be wrong.
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My natural instinct, similar to others, says too cold a transmission is not optimal.

But I am not a transmission builder and you are. So I’m inclined to be open to your thoughts here.

And since you seem to be a grown up who understands the risks and will fix issues if they arise, I’m keen to see you continue this experiment. I’d love to learn something new.

Only downside here is either way, we really won’t know anything for many years and miles most likely.
 
CalvinC said:
My natural instinct, similar to others, says too cold a transmission is not optimal.

But I am not a transmission builder and you are. So I’m inclined to be open to your thoughts here.

And since you seem to be a grown up who understands the risks and will fix issues if they arise, I’m keen to see you continue this experiment. I’d love to learn something new.

Only downside here is either way, we really won’t know anything for many years and miles most likely.
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Absolutely, temps are short term effects, I'm very interested in it's long-term. I have been working on this for awhile so far all I can say is I haven't had a problem running amsoil trans fluid in, about 53k miles and counting. Truck has 128k on it now with all amsoil fluids.
 
MattG31 said:
I think, and of course can be wrong. He was more talking about people disagreeing with what I'm doing with no real experience in it or saying hey I've tried that, it didn't work and this is what happened. But again I could be wrong.
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In that case I'm far from a naysayer. While I don't build transmissions myself, I do run a built transmission in two of my trucks, have talked to more than one transmission builderz one of which has been doing Dodge transmissions since the 80s. They all say ideal temp is 160-180. There is no benefit to running colder as it doesn't allow transmission to operate properly. With modern computer controlled transmission, the effects may not be as noticeable as the computers will try to compensate, but that doesn't mean it's good.
 
HSKR R/T said:
In that case I'm far from a naysayer. While I don't build transmissions myself, I do run a built transmission in two of my trucks, have talked to more than one transmission builderz one of which has been doing Dodge transmissions since the 80s. They all say ideal temp is 160-180. There is no benefit to running colder as it doesn't allow transmission to operate properly. With modern computer controlled transmission, the effects may not be as noticeable as the computers will try to compensate, but that doesn't mean it's good.
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I've been a builder since the 80's every transmission I built to run cooler has lasted longer then the vehicle it was in. Show me some data, show me something that has gone wrong so I can see what happened. I'm not going to listen to oh it won't work because this guy or that guy said that, that tells me nothing.
Also I bet you never asked anyone because a builder would have said the operating temp is what the factory says it should be. Like ford and gm 10 speeds can operate at 215 and we all know how that's working out. So again and again and again I'll make my trans cooler.
 
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MattG31 said:
I've been a builder since the 80's every transmission I built to run cooler has lasted longer then the vehicle it was in. Show me some data, show me something that has gone wrong so I can see what happened. I'm not going to listen to oh it won't work because this guy or that guy said that, that tells me nothing.
Also I bet you never asked anyone because a builder would have said the operating temp is what the factory says it should be. Like ford and gm 10 speeds can operate at 215 and we all know how that's working out. So again and again and again I'll make my trans cooler.
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Martin Saine out of Riverside, CA built the previous trans in one of my Dakotas. He is the one who told me 160-180, and that you don't want to run them cold. He is well know, or at least he was in the early 2000s, as one of the best in the pulling and racing truck community for Dodges. Specifically the 727 and 46/48RH/RE transmissions. And anyone that knows the 46/48REs knows they are well known to have issues with their ODs. And he didn't just rebuild transmissions, he has his own valve bodies with some proprietary tweaks, builds torque converters for the stall speed you want. Even created a "quick change" tail section for the 46re to remove the OD and replace it with a non-OD 727 tail section for less rotational weight and drive line loss when racing, then swap it back out to get OD back to drive on the street/highway with minimal fluid loss.

My current transmission was built by Eric Brewer, a local friend, who specializes in the Cummins and RAM transmissions. He used to work at local dealership, and was their best transmission guy, until he got tired of them threatening to fire him because he was doing a lot of side work from his bay, so started his own shop.

I don't know you from anyone else on this forum. I've met, talked to, and developed trust in the people I have let work on my trucks. I'd take their word over a random guy on internet claiming to be a builder. You very well could be, but I don't know you other than what you have posted here.
 
On to a different topic. Received and installed new rear cab spoiler tonight. Finally found a company making one for the panoramic sunroof trucks that didn't look like a block of plastic stuck to the cab. This is not plastic. It's fiberglass. Fits good. I got excited and installed it before reading directions. So it's just held on with 3m tape for now . But they include a tube of polyurethane sealant you are supposed to apply, inside the tape line, to help hold it on. So we will see how well the 3m tape holds up. PXL_20250717_230203595.MP.jpgPXL_20250717_230219494.jpgPXL_20250717_224117840.jpgPXL_20250717_230209910.jpgPXL_20250717_230223330.MP.jpg
 
HSKR R/T said:
Martin Saine out of Riverside, CA built the previous trans in one of my Dakotas. He is the one who told me 160-180, and that you don't want to run them cold. He is well know, or at least he was in the early 2000s, as one of the best in the pulling and racing truck community for Dodges. Specifically the 727 and 46/48RH/RE transmissions. And anyone that knows the 46/48REs knows they are well known to have issues with their ODs. And he didn't just rebuild transmissions, he has his own valve bodies with some proprietary tweaks, builds torque converters for the stall speed you want. Even created a "quick change" tail section for the 46re to remove the OD and replace it with a non-OD 727 tail section for less rotational weight and drive line loss when racing, then swap it back out to get OD back to drive on the street/highway with minimal fluid loss.

My current transmission was built by Eric Brewer, a local friend, who specializes in the Cummins and RAM transmissions. He used to work at local dealership, and was their best transmission guy, until he got tired of them threatening to fire him because he was doing a lot of side work from his bay, so started his own shop.

I don't know you from anyone else on this forum. I've met, talked to, and developed trust in the people I have let work on my trucks. I'd take their word over a random guy on internet claiming to be a builder. You very well could be, but I don't know you other than what you have posted here.
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Still don't say why, what will happen. How about this, as I said I'm doing it to find out why not just let it at that.
 
HSKR R/T said:
On to a different topic. Received and installed new rear cab spoiler tonight. Finally found a company making one for the panoramic sunroof trucks that didn't look like a block of plastic stuck to the cab. This is not plastic. It's fiberglass. Fits good. I got excited and installed it before reading directions. So it's just held on with 3m tape for now . But they include a tube of polyurethane sealant you are supposed to apply, inside the tape line, to help hold it on. So we will see how well the 3m tape holds up. View attachment 203484View attachment 203485View attachment 203486View attachment 203487View attachment 203488
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Intersting. Not sure I will ever do this but it looks good.
 
HSKR R/T said:
On to a different topic. Received and installed new rear cab spoiler tonight. Finally found a company making one for the panoramic sunroof trucks that didn't look like a block of plastic stuck to the cab. This is not plastic. It's fiberglass. Fits good. I got excited and installed it before reading directions. So it's just held on with 3m tape for now . But they include a tube of polyurethane sealant you are supposed to apply, inside the tape line, to help hold it on. So we will see how well the 3m tape holds up. View attachment 203484View attachment 203485View attachment 203486View attachment 203487View attachment 203488
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Link / cost?
 
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