What did you do to your Ram today???

[805myth1]

They aren’t pre built, I crimped the lugs myself and added the braided wire sleeve and heat shrink. I just bought it from eBay to do it myself.

 

[boogielander]

They aren’t pre built, I crimped the lugs myself and added the braided wire sleeve and heat shrink. I just bought it from eBay to do it myself.

ah ok ill look into it when i update my wiring lol

getting bored at home again lol

 

[CH3NO2LOVER]

ah ok ill look into it when i update my wiring lol

getting bored at home again lol

Man you need to level up and get the label printer with the clear heat shrink so you can label all of your wires lol. I work in a test facility so all of our wires are labeled in grave detail, some times I need to use the printer for g jobs lol

 

[HSKR R/T]

Man you need to level up and get the label printer with the clear heat shrink so you can label all of your wires lol. I work in a test facility so all of our wires are labeled in grave detail, some times I need to use the printer for g jobs lol

Or level up really big and get the wire stamping machine. I do aviation wire harnesses and every wire has a identifier we "stamp" onto it every 6" along the entire run

 

[HemiDude]

Installed the FitcamX that I ordered earlier this week. Switch out was quite simple, and I like that it doesn’t detract from or obstruct the view thru the windshield. I didn’t really need one, but I had been occasionally looking at them, and found that it was on sale for $151.99.

 

[boogielander]

Man you need to level up and get the label printer with the clear heat shrink so you can label all of your wires lol. I work in a test facility so all of our wires are labeled in grave detail, some times I need to use the printer for g jobs lol

i do have a label printer I use on customers' trucks lol
it's a little handheld one nothing fancy.

For $20 it works well hahahaha

 

[boogielander]

Or level up really big and get the wire stamping machine. I do aviation wire harnesses and every wire has a identifier we "stamp" onto it every 6" along the entire run

dang how much that machine costs...

wait actually, I don't even want to know lol I want a 3D printer, 3D scanner, and a CNC machine first... well I did. looked at the pricing and walked away LOL

 

[Insanity]

dang how much that machine costs...

wait actually, I don't even want to know lol I want a 3D printer, 3D scanner, and a CNC machine first... well I did. looked at the pricing and walked away LOL

I worked at a place that I assembled custom wiring harnesses had a CnC wire machine that was over 100k. It pulled printed and stripped the ends. They used barrels of 18g black wire. No aviation grade but I could use the PC to make it print what I wanted in what intervals with relative ease. It would do just about any gauge wire also but there were dies and adjustments that needed to be made so it was primarily for the black 18g. Now they have a automated wire termination machine.

 

[MattG31]

Today I'll be bypassing the trans mounted fluid heater. Little about it all, I use my 19 1500 to tow with. I don't like how hot the transmission gets. I was always taught to get the heat out. I've already put in the thermostat bypass and it helped, put in a 180 degree engine thermostat and that also helped but I want it cooler.

I'll will definitely post what happens.

 

[StuartV]

Today I'll be bypassing the trans mounted fluid heater. Little about it all, I use my 19 1500 to tow with. I don't like how hot the transmission gets. I was always taught to get the heat out. I've already put in the thermostat bypass and it helped, put in a 180 degree engine thermostat and that also helped but I want it cooler.

I'll will definitely post what happens.

Well, maybe you know better than the engineers that designed it, and maybe running cooler than they designed it for is just fine.

But, I do know a couple of things:

If we were talking about engine oil, I would say with certainty that making it run cooler is harmful. Engines are generally designed so that the engine oil gets right up around 212F during normal operation. That way, when the inevitable moisture gets into the oil from condensation forming inside the crank case, all it takes is for the engine to get fully up to temperature and any water in the oil will, essentially, boil off. If you modified things to make it run cooler, then you would be causing that moisture to stay in the oil.

Tires give traction by having friction with the road. They are designed to operate at a certain termperature (a range, really). Above OR below the intended operating temperature, and they don't give the amount of friction with the road surface that they are supposed to.

If any of those thoughts apply to transmission fluid temps or not is something you may choose to consider.

 

[MattG31]

I'll find out what happens, if it works out great if it brakes something I'll fix it and try again. I'm doing this from experience. I also have an 01 with 180k miles on it with the original drive train. Engine runs about 170 180, trans about 105 120 when towing. I had the valve covers off for the first time last summer for a leak and the engine was very clean almost spotless.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Today I'll be bypassing the trans mounted fluid heater. Little about it all, I use my 19 1500 to tow with. I don't like how hot the transmission gets. I was always taught to get the heat out. I've already put in the thermostat bypass and it helped, put in a 180 degree engine thermostat and that also helped but I want it cooler.

I'll will definitely post what happens.

WhT temperatures are you seeing in your transmission? When you installed the 180 thermostat, did you get a custom tune to allow the fans to turn on sooner and also adjust the timing and fueling accordingly?

There isn't a really a transmission "heater". Looking at my truck the transmission lines run straight to a trans cooler that is the top part of A/C condenser. They don't even go through the radiator like traditional factory set ups. The thermal bypass is only thing that controls transmission temperature from running too cold. Which you said you already bypassed . You want your transmission running between 160-180 preferably . But don't really want to see about 200 degrees. I haven't towed in a while but normal driving mine never gets above 185. When slow moving on off road trails, I have seen 215. I also have the Vararam intake which partially blocks the trans cooler at the top.

 

[MattG31]

WhT temperatures are you seeing in your transmission? When you installed the 180 thermostat, did you get a custom tune to allow the fans to turn on sooner and also adjust the timing and fueling accordingly?

There isn't a really a transmission "heater". Looking at my truck the transmission lines run straight to a trans cooler that is the top part of A/C condenser. They don't even go through the radiator like traditional factory set ups. The thermal bypass is only thing that controls transmission temperature from running too cold. Which you said you already bypassed . You want your transmission running between 160-180 preferably . But don't really want to see about 200 degrees. I haven't towed in a while but normal driving mine never gets above 185. When slow moving on off road trails, I have seen 215. I also have the Vararam intake which partially blocks the trans cooler at the top.

So first off don't do anything I do, if you do that's on you. I'm a mechanic and I can afford and can fix problems I cause to my truck.
The trans heater I'm talking about is mounted on the drivers side of the transmission. That has engine coolant lines going to it.

 

[MattG31]

Well, maybe you know better than the engineers that designed it, and maybe running cooler than they designed it for is just fine.

But, I do know a couple of things:

If we were talking about engine oil, I would say with certainty that making it run cooler is harmful. Engines are generally designed so that the engine oil gets right up around 212F during normal operation. That way, when the inevitable moisture gets into the oil from condensation forming inside the crank case, all it takes is for the engine to get fully up to temperature and any water in the oil will, essentially, boil off. If you modified things to make it run cooler, then you would be causing that moisture to stay in the oil.

Tires give traction by having friction with the road. They are designed to operate at a certain termperature (a range, really). Above OR below the intended operating temperature, and they don't give the amount of friction with the road surface that they are supposed to.

If any of those thoughts apply to transmission fluid temps or not is something you may choose to consider.

So what your saying is moisture will burn off at 212 but not at 180? I disagree with that.

 

[John Kloehr]

From what I understand, the Hemi runs more efficiently at the higher temperatures. So consider it a design decision for CAFE.

Running cooler is a part of hot rodding lore, and probably still applies. On these engines, it does require a bit of tuning for fan operating temperatures and for the PCM sanity checks to avoid certain codes related to not getting up to temp. The tuning will also change to running in closed loop sooner. These things are still being done on Challnegers and Chargers, not sure how much they improve or hurt long term reliability but probably minimal effect as long as the changes are done right (including the PCM).

For the transmission, I have no idea if cooler operation has any positive or negative affect, these transmission use fluids and clutch materials I am just not familiar with. But my way-back clock says cooler is better for both shift quality and long term reliability.

 

[1791]

after replacing my shocks with Bilstein's i developed quite a few squeak's. i thought it was possible i didn't torque some bolts enough? so i applied more torque to the front lower strut bolt and it snapped. grade 10 bolt snapped! i assumed they were both stretched so 50 bucks later for 2 new bolts from and nuts from mopar torqued to 140 ft pounds and some wd40 on EVERY bushing, aswell as new energy suspension sway bar bushings we are good to go

 

[HSKR R/T]

after replacing my shocks with Bilstein's i developed quite a few squeak's. i thought it was possible i didn't torque some bolts enough? so i applied more torque to the front lower strut bolt and it snapped. grade 10 bolt snapped! i assumed they were both stretched so 50 bucks later for 2 new bolts from and nuts from mopar torqued to 140 ft pounds and some wd40 on EVERY bushing, aswell as new energy suspension sway bar bushings we are good to go

140ft/lbs on shock bolts is insane

 

[1791]

140ft/lbs on shock bolts is insane

all i could find on line was 155 ft pounds for the lower bolt i thought that was a bit high so i knocked it down a little

 

[HSKR R/T]

all i could find on line was 155 ft pounds for the lower bolt i thought that was a bit high so i knocked it down a little

Yeah, that just sounds high. I didn't use a torque wrench on mine. Just drove it home with my Milwaukee impact.

 

[1791]

Yeah, that just sounds high. I didn't use a torque wrench on mine. Just drove it home with my Milwaukee impact.

yeah dewalt impact is what broke the bolt