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What did you do to your Ram today???

My truck is 1 week old, 313 miles on the odometer and I noticed my battery meter is only registering less than 50%. Doesn’t this seem low for a brand new truck? Shouldn’t it be near the top for a new battery?
With the eTorque, you may see it dip into the 12s, depending on conditions (stop/go driving, has the truck been sitting, etc). Concerned me at first, but I saw a video with one of the Ram engineers, and it apparently has to do with how/when the generator charges the batteries.
 
Yeah the new vehicles alter voltage.

The gm trucks really freak people out since they have a physical gauge that moves from 12 to 14v depending on the load.


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which port #'s did you tap into in the fuse block?
In the fuse box under the steering wheel I tapped F33 for constant and F66 for switched power. It's really hard to read the fuse numbers so I found this good labeled image from another guy in the forum.

 
Do you have Etq?

With the eTorque, you may see it dip into the 12s, depending on conditions (stop/go driving, has the truck been sitting, etc). Concerned me at first, but I saw a video with one of the Ram engineers, and it apparently has to do with how/when the generator charges the batteries.

I agree. That’s why I ask him if it was etq. Once charged. System can and will be a 12.6 driving down the road for over an hour. First time it freaked me out.
 
In the fuse box under the steering wheel I tapped F33 for constant and F66 for switched power. It's really hard to read the fuse numbers so I found this good labeled image from another guy in the forum.


Worked perfect for my dash cam. Ty again.
 
Had my windows tinted last Friday. Twenty percent on front door windows to match rear and five percent for the windshield brow. (damn bluebirds, had to clean mirrors to take pictures)
 

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To all of you who have asked for 3d printing of front splitter.
I have printed it in 5 parts, but if I had to make a new one I would probably make more as plastic and heat is difficult to control without it becoming crooked. I had to break mine up for it to fit.
Starting with a printmill as a beginner can not be recommended as it requires a lot of experience just to get the filament to stick to the bed. How much filament to use, yes it depends on how many times it fails, but a guess 5 rolls.

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I will upload files soon

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Replaced the stock third brake light on my ‘19 with the OEM LED third brake light from the ‘21+’s (Part # 68444540AB). A bit overpriced for what it is… but after seeing some of the quality control issues on the aftermarket ones, I decided to splurge and get the OEM CHMSL. The cargo light is mediocre compared to the JDM ASTAR LED’s I had in the stock housing, but I have plenty of bed lighting to make up for it, so it’s not a big deal to me. The brake light, however, is incredibly bright - like laser beam, blindingly bright when directly behind it. I was concerned about how the housing would seal against the cab since it only mounts with the 2 outer screws instead of all 4, but it uses clips to replace the 2 inner screws and actually seals up tighter than the stock housing. Overall, I’m pretty happy with the look. I think it’s a great match with my DIY Night Edition LED tail lights.

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For anyone wondering, the camera in the housing is for the digital rearview mirrors found on the ‘21+’s. As of now, the digital rearview mirror cannot be properly retrofitted to the ‘19-20’s due to BCM limitations, but I have seen other members working on possible solutions for this, including replacing the BCM with a ‘21+.
 
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Used it to deliver this fine tremec t56 6 speed I've had for a couple of years now to its new owner. Kind of got it before family life ended up consuming most of my time/energy/funds (in a good way and I wouldn't trade it) and it doesn't look I'll be doing an entire drivetrain swap on my old reliable high school car anytime soon. Happy to say that it's going to a good home, a friend of a friend was looking for this exact setup for his sqaurebody nascar truck he's building. Really looking forward to seeing this when it's done and glad he can use it where I wasn't able to. Here's a picture of what it's going into:
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And what it won't be going into, this old girl will just have to keep going on the original drivetrain.

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I am not 100% but dont think the husky's come out over the fender flare? but i like the look of your that do

Correct, but They are not exactly the same Shape as the weather techs tho. The Weather techs have a bump at the top inside that positions them in a certain spot and the tops DONT extend out of the factory flare. As well the WTs are square at the bottom. The husky’s DO protrude about 1/8” at the top outward and are sort of rounded at the bottoms.

My preference was the WTs as I liked that look more betterer, but both use factory screws and are molded to fit around the existing bodywork at the back and bottom of the wheel wells.

But now I see you guys were talking about the D-Luminoa ones. Haha

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In the fuse box under the steering wheel I tapped F33 for constant and F66 for switched power. It's really hard to read the fuse numbers so I found this good labeled image from another guy in the forum.

Thanks
 
Test fit some black Mcgard lug nuts to see how I like them. I think I do, so I’ll be buying a full set with locking lugs.

Also installed an MBRP cut and clamp muffler. Sounds good, wasn’t too hard, though I have a slight exhaust leak where the clamp tightens down. I may see about getting a wider clamp, worst case I’ll just have some shop weld it.

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Exhaust
Sounds terrific!! How is the drone at hwy speeds?
 
Wow, what a bleak looking lot. Who do you work for, Kingpin?

Lmao it’s a hockey rink…but it’s in the middle of an industrial park lol guaranteed some old mafia bodies buried in the woods


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