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Truck Camper and suspension upgrades experience?

heskech

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Does anyone have experience with truck campers and know what suspension upgrades are required, if any, to carry an additional 500-600 lbs over payload capacity for trucks equipped with the factory air suspension? I know the rule is you should never go over payload capacity, but I'd like to know your experience, if anyone has tried it.

My situation is I've ordered a Four Wheel truck camper. Four Wheel is recommending Air Bags for the rear suspension, however my RAM 1500 has an air suspension, and for the leveling to work properly if the system is tripped from being over capacity, I've been advised that I should replace the factory springs with CRMs (Coil Replacement Mounts - https://timbergroveenterprises.com/shop/09-20-ram-1500-factory-rake-stainless-sq6027994). The CRM springs hold more cubic inches of air than the factory springs. This effectively lowers the PSI required to support the truck and the truck camper load. If I didn't go with the CRMs, I run the risk of the factory air system shutting down when the PSI limit is reached. I estimate I'll be pretty close to the PSI limit fully loaded.
 

devildodge

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500 to 600 pounds over payload capacity is going to put you over axle capacity.

Too each their own. But adding a bandaid is fine when you are just trying to help sag...but for something that will be hanging onto the back of the truck regularly...you might want to reconsider the truck or the camper.

7100 GVWR with 8000 axle capacity. 90% Of payload over rear axle...you are going to be above more than just payload.

Curious to hear what others have to say.
 

heskech

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500 to 600 pounds over payload capacity is going to put you over axle capacity.

Too each their own. But adding a bandaid is fine when you are just trying to help sag...but for something that will be hanging onto the back of the truck regularly...you might want to reconsider the truck or the camper.

7100 GVWR with 8000 axle capacity. 90% Of payload over rear axle...you are going to be above more than just payload.

Curious to hear what others have to say.

Thanks devildodge. The sticker on my truck reads GAWR REAR: 4100 LB WITH 275/55/R20 113T TIRES, 20x9.0 RIMS AT 32 PSI COLD. The way that reads to me is the axle, tires, and rims are part of the formula to calculate the rear GAWR (and front too). The article below suggests the same and that the actual axle capacity could be higher depending on the axle manufacturer's GAWR. Assuming that's true, does anyone know the actual axle GAWR or know a way to find out?


"The GAWRs listed on each truck’s payload sticker are greatly limited by the OEM tires. If you research the actual GAWRs with the axle manufacturer you’ll probably be surprised to learn that you have several hundreds, if not thousands, of additional pounds of cargo carrying capacity (this is especially true with the AAM 11.5 rear axle found on our 2013 Ram 3500, which has a 10,000-pound GAWR rating, 3,000 pounds more than the GAWR given by FCA)."
 

devildodge

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Thanks devildodge. The sticker on my truck reads GAWR REAR: 4100 LB WITH 275/55/R20 113T TIRES, 20x9.0 RIMS AT 32 PSI COLD. The way that reads to me is the axle, tires, and rims are part of the formula to calculate the rear GAWR (and front too). The article below suggests the same and that the actual axle capacity could be higher depending on the axle manufacturer's GAWR. Assuming that's true, does anyone know the actual axle GAWR or know a way to find out?


"The GAWRs listed on each truck’s payload sticker are greatly limited by the OEM tires. If you research the actual GAWRs with the axle manufacturer you’ll probably be surprised to learn that you have several hundreds, if not thousands, of additional pounds of cargo carrying capacity (this is especially true with the AAM 11.5 rear axle found on our 2013 Ram 3500, which has a 10,000-pound GAWR rating, 3,000 pounds more than the GAWR given by FCA)."
That is a bunch of wrong information in the quote.

Your tires will have more capacity than the 4100 axle rating.

The 4100 rating of the rear axle and 3900 of the front is more than the 7100 GVWR. Thisbis because the brakes and steering are rated for 7100.
 

ChadT

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Does anyone have experience with truck campers and know what suspension upgrades are required, if any, to carry an additional 500-600 lbs over payload capacity for trucks equipped with the factory air suspension? I know the rule is you should never go over payload capacity, but I'd like to know your experience, if anyone has tried it.

My situation is I've ordered a Four Wheel truck camper. Four Wheel is recommending Air Bags for the rear suspension, however my RAM 1500 has an air suspension, and for the leveling to work properly if the system is tripped from being over capacity, I've been advised that I should replace the factory springs with CRMs (Coil Replacement Mounts - https://timbergroveenterprises.com/shop/09-20-ram-1500-factory-rake-stainless-sq6027994). The CRM springs hold more cubic inches of air than the factory springs. This effectively lowers the PSI required to support the truck and the truck camper load. If I didn't go with the CRMs, I run the risk of the factory air system shutting down when the PSI limit is reached. I estimate I'll be pretty close to the PSI limit fully loaded.

Hmm.
Just being REALLLLY honest? I wouldn't do it.
I had a Gen1 Rebel (4th Gen Ram 1500), and a Gen 2 Rebel.
The 5.7 Hemi is more than enough pulling power for loads - after all the 5.7 Truck powerplant was the engine of choice in the 3/4tons for many many years (albeit with different specs).
The 8speed ZF transmission is a seriously robust unit.
The E rated tires of the rebel are, again, the territory of the HD trucks, granted at lower pressures.

But it comes down to things like the cooling, axle strength, the brakes, and the stiffness of the suspension in handling the loads, as well as the weight of the truck vs the weight of what's being hauled/towed.

The Factory air suspension, while we aren't always sure about how it will fare vs cold weather? In warm weather? Is absolutely amazing. I won't repost the pictures but I've seen photos of eye-watering loads that can be levelled with the factory air suspension. But they were driving with that cargo, one way, one time. Home. Blowing a bag because of overload? Woof. Wouldn't want to pay for that repair bill, assuming the driver even kept control of the vehicle.

The braking component is not insignificant. IIRC the primary reason Ram went from the 17in to the 18in wheels, was to accommodate the bigger braking system. The problem is, when hauling heavy over spec over longer periods of time, you're asking the brakes to stop more than they're really rated to stop. That means as they get hot they're taking longer and more distance to stop. This is how you end up rear-ending some braindead millennial with a phone, because they stopped short, and your stopping distance was longer than it should have been.

PLANNING on being 500-600lbs over payload?
Stuff like that seems to quickly get rationalized in the 750 territory, as campers and trailers are notorious for weighing more than promised when delivered. It's the first thing the old timers tell the new guys, "weigh it. Do. Not. Trust. The. Estimate." It's almost always over, and that's BEFORE anything gets added to it.
Running it well over its rating for years is how you get to pre-mature parts wear and it's a safety issue dice roll on every drive.

I think halftons are pretty capable, I do think there's safety margin built into their ratings, BUT.
You can't really just add more payload to them.
They tend to be "OR" vehicles. Run them at their payload. OR if you're going over, stay under the axle ratings and bring that payload home.
OR tow at the max you figure out with the GCWR numbers and how your truck is loaded out.
Don't get me wrong, I love mine.
But with a 1,308lb payload? With me in that's like 1,100lbs.
Just as an example, I would probably trust 1,200lbs in the back with the falcon shocks in a "10 miles back home and taking the load out" environment. I would be over the door sticker, under the axle's rating, under the tires, etc. Would I do that as Plan A, and drive hundreds of mines home and to campsites with that? Honestly I wouldn't want to.

But, and I'm not sure this is precisely what you suggested but I'm using this as an example - taking that 1,300lb payload, THEN putting 500-600+lbs over the sticker right over the rear axle alone?
A ~1,950lb camper in the back?
Plus me? Plus filling it up? We just went from 1,300lbs on the sticker to +2,200lbs loaded.
Then driven a good distance back and forth. And over bumps.
Many times over the years.
No F'in way, I wouldn't do that.

A properly equipped 3/4ton HD truck would probably accommodate it just fine. No worries, headaches, drama, etc.
 

ProStreet

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Does anyone have experience with truck campers and know what suspension upgrades are required, if any, to carry an additional 500-600 lbs over payload capacity for trucks equipped with the factory air suspension? I know the rule is you should never go over payload capacity, but I'd like to know your experience, if anyone has tried it.

My situation is I've ordered a Four Wheel truck camper. Four Wheel is recommending Air Bags for the rear suspension, however my RAM 1500 has an air suspension, and for the leveling to work properly if the system is tripped from being over capacity, I've been advised that I should replace the factory springs with CRMs (Coil Replacement Mounts - https://timbergroveenterprises.com/shop/09-20-ram-1500-factory-rake-stainless-sq6027994). The CRM springs hold more cubic inches of air than the factory springs. This effectively lowers the PSI required to support the truck and the truck camper load. If I didn't go with the CRMs, I run the risk of the factory air system shutting down when the PSI limit is reached. I estimate I'll be pretty close to the PSI limit fully loaded.
Any updates on what you did?
 

ProStreet

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Does anyone have experience with truck campers and know what suspension upgrades are required, if any, to carry an additional 500-600 lbs over payload capacity for trucks equipped with the factory air suspension? I know the rule is you should never go over payload capacity, but I'd like to know your experience, if anyone has tried it.

My situation is I've ordered a Four Wheel truck camper. Four Wheel is recommending Air Bags for the rear suspension, however my RAM 1500 has an air suspension, and for the leveling to work properly if the system is tripped from being over capacity, I've been advised that I should replace the factory springs with CRMs (Coil Replacement Mounts - https://timbergroveenterprises.com/shop/09-20-ram-1500-factory-rake-stainless-sq6027994). The CRM springs hold more cubic inches of air than the factory springs. This effectively lowers the PSI required to support the truck and the truck camper load. If I didn't go with the CRMs, I run the risk of the factory air system shutting down when the PSI limit is reached. I estimate I'll be pretty close to the PSI limit fully loaded.
What model camper did you order?
 

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