EGR coolers eventually leak and at first slowly send coolant out your tailpipes. Thanks EPA. Warranty covers for a while and now 14,15,16s get extended warranty after AEM emissions software update. But after the AEM many trucks are sluggish until up to normal operating temp lose power & mileage and really need a tune to be better than original. Best, permanent, and economical fix after warranty for leaking EGR cooler is delete plates and a $50 update to an aftermarket tune. Both GDE (Green Diesel Engineering) and PPEI offer a proper ECM level tune IE not a piggy back fooler chip or the silly Banks box.
In the mean time just monitor your degas tank (aka overflow tank top front center when you open the hood) If over time & miles your truck develops a slow internal EGR cooler leak you can see it in the level of your degas tank. Just add distilled water and or plus anti-freeze to keep it to the seam until you get the EGR cooler replaced or deleted. Warning the degas tank will only get so low before the coolant level stops dropping in the tank however coolant continues to drop in the system. This is bad because even if your truck is not over heating yet you are getting hot dry spots, steam pressure, and not properly lubricating your water pump. So you are likely to eventually take out your water pump & or radiator and or push a head gasket.
This is what happened to mine I was running lower on coolant than I realized and pushed a head gasket at 371,000 miles while towing a travel trailer. Motor would have lasted longer had I better monitored my coolant level via the degas tank and replaced or deleted the EGR cooler sooner. Today the truck has 579,000 and has held up well. Pics can be seen of it elsewhere on the forum. Original transmission but I changed the fluid after every 100k. I also have a GDE ECM and Trans tune. This has proven to be a good investment. Had to do over I would again spend my money on the tunes for the many substantial benefits. Clean oil, better regen management, no trivial check engine lights, turbo brake, power & mileage bump etc. These make the truck substantially better than stock.
Other normal maintenance per original warranty Rotella T6 full synthetic oil every 10k with 10k rated oil filter. It’s reasonably priced for a full synthetic readily available and an approved oil. I did use the original Pensoil Euro L oil for 170k no issues. Fuel filter every 30k per my original warranty. I now only use the factory Mopar fuel filter/water separator as others are not likely to be supported for warranty should you get a load of dirty or watered diesel that takes out your expensive fuel system. Even beyond our EDs 100k warranty who wants to take any more chance here than they have to. I believe the Mopar filter is the only one with water separator in addition to particle filter. Change or check especially your rear differential fluid every year. It’s quick simple & easy to do and nobody wants to buy a new rear end for their truck.
Aside from investing in a tune to keep your truck out of the shop find a dealership who actually has at least a certified diesel mechanic if not an Ecodiesel schooled tech. That is if & when you need any repairs. FWIW Most city dealerships do not. Many country dealerships that sell a lot of diesel Rams do. Bad techs / service departments have made good money from warranty & consumers alike replacing turbos & injectors only because WiTech listed them as a possible cause to a code. Find a problem solver not a unthinking or unscrupulous parts swapper. Last a cheap simple two button Bosch OBD 1000 scan tool in your glove box can save you a trip, tow, or embarrassing limp home mode and put you in the drivers seat with respects to any minor issues. Oh yeah one more if towing heavy in the heat up a grade limit your sustained rpms to 3k so as not to overtax your cooling system. No serious overheats and clean oil these things can live a really long trouble free life and with 30 mpg Hwy or 23 mpg running locally you will be apt to do just that.