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Towing my 32' travel trailer

My payload is 1750 and my dry hitch weight is 520 lbs so with gear a bit more. So if we say 650 tongue weight thats gives me 1100 lbs for peeps and gear. I was just stating the total weight the truck was rated to do before.
 
Cool. Sorry. That wasn't how I read it and see this mistake quite often.

Thanks for the info and clarification.

We just got back from camping. I am ready to go again.

@Mike W that is a great payload. Most average around 1400.
 
I will be taking my fist trip camping with new trailer in 2 weeks. Im still resting from my 3,000 mile trip to Kentucky to pick up the camper.
 
Thats not a bad dry weight. My dry wight for my Open Range Ultra Lite UT2802BH is with battery and propane is 6300. I put all my stuff in it and that only adds about 350-400 lbs including generator.
Oh darn. I need to rethink thing lol
 
omg I can’t wit to go camping
On your drivers door look at the tire sticker. The top go it will list your Payload. that is your important number. the more upgrades and options your truck has that number will go down.
 
Honestly 700k towing TTs across the country for the Mfgrs using a half ton truck. You’re payload number being your most important number is the most repeated fallacy IMO. Sure it’s generally the first Mfgr spec number you exceed. As to it’s importance well it has little to do with setting up a safe stable tow.

For a TT use your WDH, trailer, & bed loading to by the Cat scale numbers replace your unloaded steer axle weight & get your tongue weight in the 10 to 15 percent of gross trailer weight range and you will have a safe stable set up.

Often you can adjust your weight distribution to be below max payload or gvwr but sometimes I don’t in favor of a better weight distribution setup and a safer more stable setup.
 
If you can do maintenance or repairs used. Otherwise new with good warranty fro reputable outlet
 
Silly question as a newbie do you recommend used or new trailer
We have a big reputable used dealer in my area. I looked at new first and before I could get out the door the rig was over $40k. I have a few specifics (king size bed, full tow weight under 8300). That narrowed my used choices a bunch. But I did find one in like-new condition that saved me over $15k!
 
We have a big reputable used dealer in my area. I looked at new first and before I could get out the door the rig was over $40k. I have a few specifics (king size bed, full tow weight under 8300). That narrowed my used choices a bunch. But I did find one in like-new condition that saved me over $15k!
I live in Arizona and drove to Kentucky to save money. List on my camper is $42,000 and was able to get that down to about $36,000 in AZ. The dealers add the destination charge and dealer mark ups. That adds about $10,000-$12,000. This is the second time I drove out there to get a new camper. I sold my 2018 Jayco in 7 hrs on Craigslist for $500 less than what I paid for it because the prices here are so much higher. I was out the door for $28,000 vs $46,000+.
 
I live in Arizona and drove to Kentucky to save money. List on my camper is $42,000 and was able to get that down to about $36,000 in AZ. The dealers add the destination charge and dealer mark ups. That adds about $10,000-$12,000. This is the second time I drove out there to get a new camper. I sold my 2018 Jayco in 7 hrs on Craigslist for $500 less than what I paid for it because the prices here are so much higher. I was out the door for $28,000 vs $46,000+.
That seems like very excessive markup. I bought my trailer a couple months ago from RV World in Yuma. Not only were they the largest discount off MSRP, they didn't add on anything. They were great to deal with in fact.

The destination charge is just like trucks... charged by the manufacturer. What's different is the charge is variable depending on where you are in relation to the factory. People manually drive TTs to the dealer. Just ask @VernDiesel... that's his job. Somebody is paying for his Ram. :). In my case I bought a Lance that was made in southern California. So destination was modest.
 
That seems like very excessive markup. I bought my trailer a couple months ago from RV World in Yuma. Not only were they the largest discount off MSRP, they didn't add on anything. They were great to deal with in fact.

The destination charge is just like trucks... charged by the manufacturer. What's different is the charge is variable depending on where you are in relation to the factory. People manually drive TTs to the dealer. Just ask @VernDiesel... that's his job. Somebody is paying for his Ram. :). In my case I bought a Lance that was made in southern California. So destination was modest.
Ya I know thats his job. Thats all I saw on 40 was peeps hauling TT and 5th Wheels to the west coast. All the dealers add crazy mark ups here. They show the list price and then you sit down with them and ask OTD price and its insane. I didn't search as far as Yuma. I used to go to Yuma on business all the time. I would have been all about staying at the Yuma Cabana again.
 
Ya I know thats his job. Thats all I saw on 40 was peeps hauling TT and 5th Wheels to the west coast. All the dealers add crazy mark ups here. They show the list price and then you sit down with them and ask OTD price and its insane. I didn't search as far as Yuma. I used to go to Yuma on business all the time. I would have been all about staying at the Yuma Cabana again.
Yeah, I never sit down with them. My TT and my last several cars were all purchased online with an out of town dealer. I don't step foot in the dealership untill I know for sure what I'm paying OTD and every detail, financing included, is secured.

Still, KY seems like a long haul from AZ for a trailer. Then again, I flew from San Diego to Albuquerque to buy my Ram. :)
 
Hi all. Does anyone has any experience with running over their GVWR? How much over are you comfortable with? Granted the GAWR is higher, has anyone ran into trouble exceeding their vehicles GVWR?
 
Towing hauling over GVWR is not un-common with TT owners of all 1/2 ton makes. If you are going to tow & haul a heavy load you should Cat scale it for a safe stable setup. Otherwise you are taking foolish risk. Set up is key. So I believe with the 5th gen thats not more than 3,900 steer axle and 4,100 drive axle and or 8,000 combined. Some times I could adjust my WDH to get below GVWR but choose not to for a safer more balanced and stable setup. Also subtract out the combined truck only weight (off Cat slip) from the truck with TT weight slip for the tongue weight. It should not be more than 1,150 or 1,160 since Cat scales weigh in 20 pound increments. Getting that heavy is not the way to start out for a newbie. Watch CVWR also as you should not exceed that either.

BTW I have tow / hauled where is was scaled at 8,000 on the truck axles. Its really maxing out the half ton platform and you will want good trailer brakes with the TBC set for your trailer weight. For the diesel guys with tune the engine brake is also very useful and re-assuring when coming down a grade. I have had 15,800 CVW coming down a 6 percent grade. With engine brake and TBC there was no need to touch the truck brakes to control speed coming down the grade. But you want all these things in place and experience where you work up that weight with both Cat scale setup and driving.
 
We have a big reputable used dealer in my area. I looked at new first and before I could get out the door the rig was over $40k. I have a few specifics (king size bed, full tow weight under 8300). That narrowed my used choices a bunch. But I did find one in like-new condition that saved me over $15k!
What trailer did you end up with? Have similar requirements.
 
very nice. Post up some pics of the inside. I am in the market for a travel trailer
 

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