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Towing for the first time

I enjoy watching people talk about math when they don’t include variables.
It shows how little real world experience they actually have and their inability to use critical thinking…

The math in this discussion is concerning gear ratios and performance while towing.
There are no variables from individual trucks (once we account for 3.21, 3.92, and tire size which assumes same tires on both trucks)
There is no room for preferences or experiences.
Torque at the ground is a function of torque from the engine, transmission gear, rear axle, and tire size.
 
The math in this discussion is concerning gear ratios and performance while towing.
There are no variables from individual trucks (once we account for 3.21, 3.92, and tire size which assumes same tires on both trucks)
There is no room for preferences or experiences.
Torque at the ground is a function of torque from the engine, transmission gear, rear axle, and tire size.
So you’re just trolling now.
Thanks.
 
You're neither the OP nor a mod. There is nothing wrong with pointing out errors in posts, and if that turns you off by all means find a new forum. And if you read carefully you'll see the content here, even the arguments, are all relevant to his questions.

The math in this discussion is concerning gear ratios and performance while towing.
There are no variables from individual trucks (once we account for 3.21, 3.92, and tire size which assumes same tires on both trucks)
There is no room for preferences or experiences.
Torque at the ground is a function of torque from the engine, transmission gear, rear axle, and tire size.
Its almost like your trying to justify your choice with 3:21 gearing. The 3:92 is to help in increasing the GCW capability to compete with the competitors, while protecting the trucks drivetrain. Well you did get one thing right, I'm not a moderator, but trust me I'm not going anywhere. Now can we get on with answering the OP's questions. :rolleyes:
 
I've towed at 23K GCW without trailer brakes, not by choice, and you have to slow down and keep a lot of distance between you and the vehicle your behind. The toy hauler I was towing was a commercial tow to the customer in Salt Lake when the pigtail shorted between the trailer brake signal and brake light signal bypassing the modulated voltage from the BC and would lock up the brakes anytime I hit the brakes (12VDC to lights activated full 12VDC to brakes.) So I just cut the brake wire to the brakes and towed from Vegas to Salt Lake without trailer brakes, one advantage I had was the new OE exhaust brake that came with my 07 3500 C&C 6.7 CTD, so I had some braking assisting the hydraulic brakes. So even with a BC, keep the distance between you and the vehicle in front farther, that will allow a longer braking distance. Keep your speeds appropriate to what your towing and your surroundings. You can tow at higher speeds, but at some point your MPG will drop off quickly, I recommend 65 MPH a good towing speed. But as you noted, your in Comifornia which has a 55 MPH limit towing, which is ridiculous, but it is the law. I've been passed by CHP at 70 MPH towing my 5K pound boat to Lake Havasu in the Mohave desert, without even a glance, but can in force it at their discretion.

I just witnessed a DRW F350 pulling a big bumper pull trailer that was extremely tall, and it was swerving, struggling in the wind from what was left of Hurricane Helene in Kentucky, as I passed him, I saw that he didn't have a weight distribution hitch allowing the trailer to wag the dog. A WDH is a must when towing at or over the allowed GCW to help stabilize the trailer, can you tow without it, yes, but not recommended.
 
Its almost like your trying to justify your choice with 3:21 gearing.

Not at all, pointing out errors is not justifying. The OP has a 5000 pound trailer, someone telling him that a 3.21 will hunt more gears and that the 3.92 "will be a breeze" is factually incorrect and gives a false impression of the capability of the OP's own truck.

The 3:92 is to help in increasing the GCW capability to compete with the competitors, while protecting the trucks drivetrain.

GCWR is a real value, but more useful for marketing than towing. Nobody should be pulling more than 8000 pounds, and if you do the math on almost every RV or utility trailer you'll discover that.


Well you did get one thing right, I'm not a moderator, but trust me I'm not going anywhere. Now can we get on with answering the OP's questions. :rolleyes:

We're in a towing thread, gear ratios and math is relevant to the OP's initial posts. What isn't relevant are your meta comments complaining about the discussion. Again, you're not the OP, not a mod, why are you complaining?
 
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I enjoy watching people talk about math when they don’t include variables.
It shows how little real world experience they actually have and their inability to use critical thinking…

OP is going to be fine. Spyder nailed it. Take your time, brake early…

I’d only add, before you take off for the whole trip, test the trailer brake manually. It should allow for trailer brake settings memory. Test it driving down your street and on a faster surface road before hitting the highway.
If the trailer starts to sway, hitting the manual trailer brake a tad can help straighten it out as well.

When you get the setting right, it feels like you don’t have much weight back there at all.
Well said. Manual trailer break is your friend, never forget it.
 

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