For those that don't use TH towing > 5000 pounds, I'm curious why you prefer to not use it?
Remember that tow/haul mode also ups the trans line pressure allowing the trans clutches to hold onto your hemi/egodiesel vs GCVW. Watching trans temp is going to tell you "later than optimum" how much they might be slipping in granny mode.
Our travel trailer is about 7500 lbs. If we're towing, we're using tow/haul. You're not going to see any benefit in not using it.I have a new to me 2019 1500 5.7 hemi eTorque with the 3.92 rear gear ratio and will pull a loaded 5800# travel trailer. I think this truck will pull this trailer with ease on flat ground. My question is should I always pull in tow/haul mode or just when I'm in mountains up or down? I understand the tow/haul mode disables the cylinder deactivation so that may be one reason to leave it in tow/haul mode. I'm just thinking of trying to maximize fuel economy, but not at the risk of tearing the torque converter or tranny.
Just for reference.Just for kicks, I ran in Tow/Haul today while carrying close to max payload in the bed (not towing). I appreciated the braking assist.
A couple of other notes: I’d forgotten that T/H disables automatic Aero mode (air suspension). And this might have been the heaviest payload I’ve carried in the bed, so I noticed a bit more looseness in the steering. If I were loading up like that often, I’d add pressure to the rear tires and stiffen the Hellwig another notch.
You misinterpreted my comments; apologies if I wasn't clear.Just for reference.
Tow haul mode doesn't disable Aero mode.
It also doesn't change steering whatsoever.
It turns out it wasn't the temperature that got to 253 degrees it was the oil temperature that got to 253 degrees. I was looking at the wrong gauge. Does that seem right?So we had about a 100 mile tow for the first time in the mountains here in Colorado. We didn't have any real large inclines or declines, but it was mountainous driving to be sure. My temperature got up to 253 at one point but generally was hanging out at about 225. Seems kinda high. Oil temp and tranny temp were all good.
YesIt turns out it wasn't the temperature that got to 253 degrees it was the oil temperature that got to 253 degrees. I was looking at the wrong gauge. Does that seem right?
It turns out it wasn't the temperature that got to 253 degrees it was the oil temperature that got to 253 degrees. I was looking at the wrong gauge. Does that seem right?
Yeah, oil gets pretty hot, and here's where higher RPM's can actually be a good thing (up to a point), circulating more oil through the heat exchanger and thus keeping it cooler.It turns out it wasn't the temperature that got to 253 degrees it was the oil temperature that got to 253 degrees. I was looking at the wrong gauge. Does that seem right?
Looks good. A few years ago, I had and f150 (eco 2.7). Good truck, I enjoyed it, but the trans temp always ran 205-207 when NOT towing. Ford claimed that it was normal, and I don't agree. Never had any issues in the time I owned it, but could never figure out why it ran so hot.My temps towing my trailer up a minor grade in PA in 95F + day. Trailer was probably loaded to around 7k lbs.
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Never use it when the going is easy. Low hills and minor downgrades aren't a problem. I have the 5.7 3.92 setup also, and rarely use tow/haul, but like everyone says, watch the temps as a guideline.
For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 220 degrees F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. For every pound of fuel burned in an engine, the combustion process also generates a pound of water! If engine sump temperatures rarely exceed 212 degrees (water's boiling point), the water will mix with sulfur (another combustion byproduct) and create acids that can eventually damage bearings. As for ultimate power potential, the general consensus among most racers is that hot oil and cool water make more power in most engines. Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees. Even on a short-duration, drag-only combo where oil is frequently changed, you would not want to routinely see oil temps under 200 degrees.Yeah, oil gets pretty hot, and here's where higher RPM's can actually be a good thing (up to a point), circulating more oil through the heat exchanger and thus keeping it cooler.