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sumo springs - little review

IvoryHemi

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Well of course, which is the same reason engineering decided not to use the 2.0L "Hurricane" engine in the JT and restricts it to the JL.

Maximum ratings being what they are, I've always been of the opinion that individual payload rating is the number that matters the most because that's the one a guy will run out of the soonest. And, obviously, the payload rating directly translates into how much trailer you can really pull. In a LOT of cases, what we typically see is that the Ram 1500 door jamb placards will show a similar or lower rating than the Gladiator. Sometimes the Ram can be significantly lower when optioned similarly. If you're looking at a Ram with a 1,245 lb. payload rating, and a Gladiator with a 1,310 lb. payload rating, then all of those generalized maximum GCWR and towing ratings go out the window.

Payload to payload is not a good comparison. Looking at GCWR minus GVWR will tell you just how capable the truck is of towing at max payload.

JT: 11,800 - 6,350 = 5,450 lbs
DT: 15,600 - 7,200 = 8,400 lbs

The JT is clearly limited because it’s simply a mid-size. The suspension/axles/brakes/chassis etc are holding it back

There is a big difference in capability between JT and DT despite sharing the 3.0; just like how the 5.7 was once shared between 1500 and 2500
 
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Houram

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I installed the Timbren SES kit on my truck. Since mine is a North Edition, I ended up with 1.5" gap between the bottom of the Timbren spring and the axle perch.

Unloaded ride quality is exactly like stock 95% of the time. The other 5% of the time is when I hit a bridge expansion joint or some other rough area in a road, and then the suspension cycles enough to strike the Timbren which results in a "thud" similar to how a stock 3500 series truck rides. It's very bearable and I've gotten used to it.

When I tow my 8.5x24' enclosed trailer with 6,300 to 8,000 lbs. total load, the truck rides like a DREAM. Dips in the road are soaked up smoothly and with control. Jarring bridge joints or pot holes are handled pretty well. I've been extremely happy with them.

Now I'm about to trade this truck in on the Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel. Same transmission, same engine, nearly identical rear suspension design that even shares control arms with the Ram. BUT...the Jeep is about 3 inches narrower in track width. So I'm trying to decide whether to use the Timbren kit again, OR, should I bump on up to a weight distributing hitch setup. I've avoided WDH setups before due to cost, complexity, and maintenance. Then you have to decide round bar or trunnion? Anti-sway or not? They can be a PITA, and you have to check bolts and hardware constantly to ensure they don't come loose. But, if it's a safer way to go then I might suck it up and try it. Or will the Timbren kit work flawlessly just like it does on the Ram version? I keep going back and forth.
Steering on gladiator is very bad. Had a launch addition less than a year and sold it. To scary oN wet roads and don’t even try to tow…..
 

WXman

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Steering on gladiator is very bad. Had a launch addition less than a year and sold it. To scary oN wet roads and don’t even try to tow…..

Just pulled the same 24' trailer I mentioned in that prior post with the Gladiator EcoDiesel this past weekend. Did an amazing job. Felt exactly like the Ram. 12 MPG for the trip, 500 miles round trip. The Timbrens from the Ram swapped right over to the Jeep since the rear suspension is so similar.
 

Rufus66

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I had a similar experience with the black Sumo springs. You absolutely have to remove the 1" spacer or ride quality will be horrendous unloaded. I called Sumo directly and tech support noted these can be "tuned" by cutting into the insert (you wont damage its integrity) at a diagonal so you would remove about 1" in the front and taper it down towards the back. This will make initial loading of the spring a softer effective rate, then after its fully loaded you get the full benefit of the spring support. I did this and VERY happy with the end result. I'm towing a ~6,000lb car trailer.
I to do not like the ride with the black sumo springs. Too harsh when it's cold so had to take them off and put the original bump stocks back in. In reading your post I am thinking of tuning my black ones also. Can you provide any pictures of the tuned springs or hand draw a sketch for me. Now that you have had these for awhile what's the uploaded ride like? Would be much appreciated. I did a sketch of what I though you did, is this correct? See attached. Thx
 

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Bt10

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I to do not like the ride with the black sumo springs. Too harsh when it's cold so had to take them off and put the original bump stocks back in. In reading your post I am thinking of tuning my black ones also. Can you provide any pictures of the tuned springs or hand draw a sketch for me. Now that you have had these for awhile what's the uploaded ride like? Would be much appreciated. I did a sketch of what I though you did, is this correct? See attached. Thx
I too am interested in this cutting. I will get the softest Sumo's; I've had them on my last truck and they were zero maintenance and worked excellent. Don't know if I want to cut and install with spacer, or just install without spacer. WDH with front and rear sag = good.

I've had air bags on a GM B body impala ss, and they worked good for that as well. They needed fittings, etc after a few salted winters. The Roadmaster and Fleetwood already come w/air shocks.
 

Rufus66

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I too am interested in this cutting. I will get the softest Sumo's; I've had them on my last truck and they were zero maintenance and worked excellent. Don't know if I want to cut and install with spacer, or just install without spacer. WDH with front and rear sag = good.

I've had air bags on a GM B body impala ss, and they worked good for that as well. They needed fittings, etc after a few salted winters. The Roadmaster and Fleetwood already come w/air shocks.
The only reason why we are cutting them is because i bought the Black Sumo (1500lbs) vs the Blue ones which are softer. Too hard a ride with black so trying to minimize out of pocket expenses before the last ditch effort of buying the blue ones.
 

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