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Rough Country Retract Powered Running Boards

MikeyHo808

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Just completed installation of a set of RC Retract Powered Steps. Replaced a set of OEM wheel to wheel Stainless steps that came with the truck.
Went with the Rough Country for a few reasons:

1) About $500 cheaper than the Amp Steps
2) I like how they swing out
3) I like the look of how they sit when retracted

I would rate the install about a 3.5 out of 5. I had easier time with the passenger side than the driver side. For some reason the driver side step wouldn't fall into the channel nicely, so a lot of cussing ensued for the next 45 minutes. Seemed I had the idler arms on too tight at first, but even after loosening it all up, the step took a while to sit into the channel completely.
Instructions were decent, and not many videos available to reference. I did find one youtube video(he may be a forum member), and took notes where needed. I took my time, and basically installed these steps over 2 days, the last of it today just tying up the LED wiring under the cab and final tweaking to get them in time and tucked up as high as possible. If I had to estimate how long, I'd say about 6 hours, give or take an hour. I had to remove the OEM steps first, so it took a bit longer.

1645499110829.png 1645505867376.png

1645503675643.png 1645503705437.png
-Mounted the control box to the dash frame behind the center console
-Ran the power wire through the grommet in the firewall.
The wiring harnesses were well labeled, but there is a 2 pin connector that plugs into the factory harness behind the kick panel. That wire was tape wrapped to the passenger side LED wire, so it made for a difficult run across the cabin to the driver side.

1645499365606.png
Here is where it helped it helped to have the right tools. Instructions has you pull back the carpet to expose that floor plug that is about 2/3rds covered with sound deadening to run your wiring.
-I used my DREMEL tool to remove the sound deadening that was covering the plug in the floor. Then used a chisel to pop it out. Passenger side was even easier. This tool was a time saver. The sound deadening was way too thick to cut through. Using the proper blade attachment, I just scraped and leveled it until the floor plug was clear and I could pop it out freely.
-With the plug out it made it easier to drill the hole for the motor and LED wiring.
-I used clear RTV sealant to close the exposed hole in the floor plug before I replaced the carpet back down.
1645499415632.png
1645500873056.png 1645500971385.png
Once I finally got both sides installed, each sided needed to be positioned so when retracted the step sits centered under the cab.
The built in LED's in the step, with my LED strips under the cab. It is pretty bright!
After adjusting idler arms, step is tucked up pretty good. Nicely centered on both sides.
1645501036625.png 1645501771623.png
The RC steps, when fully retracted, tuck under the cab nicely. Do miss the wheel to wheel look, but the OEM steps stuck out a TON!
I like how the RC's sit under the cab retracted compared to the AMP step, and I dig how they swing out when activated, like wings, lol. Each to his own, I guess...:)

So far, so good. Happy how it looks and functions, will see how they hold up. Steps feel pretty robust, thick and sturdy. I have lost some shin skin to it already during this install.
Definitely changed the look of the truck, and only shiny parts left are my tailgate and grill emblems and lug nuts.
Last on the list, wheels and tires. Well, last on the list for this quarter, lol.
 

31RamIt

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Thanks for the write up. Been tossing the RC and AMP back and forth in my head. I like the look and swing of both.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
 

Jako

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Just completed installation of a set of RC Retract Powered Steps. Replaced a set of OEM wheel to wheel Stainless steps that came with the truck.
Went with the Rough Country for a few reasons:

1) About $500 cheaper than the Amp Steps
2) I like how they swing out
3) I like the look of how they sit when retracted

I would rate the install about a 3.5 out of 5. I had easier time with the passenger side than the driver side. For some reason the driver side step wouldn't fall into the channel nicely, so a lot of cussing ensued for the next 45 minutes. Seemed I had the idler arms on too tight at first, but even after loosening it all up, the step took a while to sit into the channel completely.
Instructions were decent, and not many videos available to reference. I did find one youtube video(he may be a forum member), and took notes where needed. I took my time, and basically installed these steps over 2 days, the last of it today just tying up the LED wiring under the cab and final tweaking to get them in time and tucked up as high as possible. If I had to estimate how long, I'd say about 6 hours, give or take an hour. I had to remove the OEM steps first, so it took a bit longer.

View attachment 121311 View attachment 121336

View attachment 121332 View attachment 121333
-Mounted the control box to the dash frame behind the center console
-Ran the power wire through the grommet in the firewall.
The wiring harnesses were well labeled, but there is a 2 pin connector that plugs into the factory harness behind the kick panel. That wire was tape wrapped to the passenger side LED wire, so it made for a difficult run across the cabin to the driver side.

View attachment 121312
Here is where it helped it helped to have the right tools. Instructions has you pull back the carpet to expose that floor plug that is about 2/3rds covered with sound deadening to run your wiring.
-I used my DREMEL tool to remove the sound deadening that was covering the plug in the floor. Then used a chisel to pop it out. Passenger side was even easier. This tool was a time saver. The sound deadening was way too thick to cut through. Using the proper blade attachment, I just scraped and leveled it until the floor plug was clear and I could pop it out freely.
-With the plug out it made it easier to drill the hole for the motor and LED wiring.
-I used clear RTV sealant to close the exposed hole in the floor plug before I replaced the carpet back down.
View attachment 121313
View attachment 121318 View attachment 121320
Once I finally got both sides installed, each sided needed to be positioned so when retracted the step sits centered under the cab.
The built in LED's in the step, with my LED strips under the cab. It is pretty bright!
After adjusting idler arms, step is tucked up pretty good. Nicely centered on both sides.
View attachment 121321 View attachment 121326
The RC steps, when fully retracted, tuck under the cab nicely. Do miss the wheel to wheel look, but the OEM steps stuck out a TON!
I like how the RC's sit under the cab retracted compared to the AMP step, and I dig how they swing out when activated, like wings, lol. Each to his own, I guess...:)

So far, so good. Happy how it looks and functions, will see how they hold up. Steps feel pretty robust, thick and sturdy. I have lost some shin skin to it already during this install.
Definitely changed the look of the truck, and only shiny parts left are my tailgate and grill emblems and lug nuts.
Last on the list, wheels and tires. Well, last on the list for this quarter, lol.
Can you do a picture of your "after" like your "before"? Nice job and write up. Looks great.
 

mikeru82

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The only issue I have with these is I feel like they are more noticeable when folded than the other brands.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
Agreed! I like the sleekness of the Mopar steps that my truck came with when they're retracted. The LED's on the RC are pretty cool, although not really needed with the puddle lights on the mirrors.

Bugscreen installed.jpg
 

31RamIt

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Agreed! I like the sleekness of the Mopar steps that my truck came with when they're retracted. The LED's on the RC are pretty cool, although not really needed with the puddle lights on the mirrors.

View attachment 121696
I really want the RBP steps because they use magnet switches instead of connecting to the obd system. Can't find them in stock anywhere though

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Idahoktm

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Do miss the wheel to wheel look, but the OEM steps stuck out a TON!
I always thought of fixed running boards as a necessary evil. You had to have them to get into and out of your truck, but they are just so damn ugly. :LOL: When I saw my first set of Mopar Power Running Boards, I was thrilled. They work as intended and they don't take away from the clean lines of the truck.
 

Choate

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Can you order the MOPAR ones and have installed on a truck that didn’t come with it from the factory or am I better just going with the AMP research? I too said I would just deal w the fixed ones but after taking them off I was shocked how much different it looked. Now that I’m lifted 3.5 inches I need something and I can’t go back to the fixed ones
 

31RamIt

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I always thought of fixed running boards as a necessary evil. You had to have them to get into and out of your truck, but they are just so damn ugly. When I saw my first set of Mopar Power Running Boards, I was thrilled. They work as intended and they don't take away from the clean lines of the truck.
Do the Mopar running boards come up as an option on the UConnect screen? I know if you bought the truck with the boards installed they are on there, but not sure if they can be added.

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Idahoktm

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Do the Mopar running boards come up as an option on the UConnect screen? I know if you bought the truck with the boards installed they are on there, but not sure if they can be added.

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Yes, you can use AlfaOBD to enable access to the deploy/retract feature in UConnect.
 

31RamIt

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Yes, you can use AlfaOBD to enable access to the deploy/retract feature in UConnect.
Awesome. Do you know what settings, by chance? What menu they are in.

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mikeru82

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Can you order the MOPAR ones and have installed on a truck that didn’t come with it from the factory or am I better just going with the AMP research? I too said I would just deal w the fixed ones but after taking them off I was shocked how much different it looked. Now that I’m lifted 3.5 inches I need something and I can’t go back to the fixed ones
Yes, you can install the Mopar steps on a truck that didn't come with them. The dealer can enter the sales code for you if you install them yourself, and you'll have full functionality including the button on the uconnect screen to deploy/retract them. Or use AlfaOBD, like Idahoktm said.
 

Idahoktm

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Awesome. Do you know what settings, by chance? What menu they are in.

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I'm not sure, but there are a lot of smart guys on this forum that will be able to help if you post the question in one of the AlfaOBD threads.
 

31RamIt

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I'm not sure, but there are a lot of smart guys on this forum that will be able to help if you post the question in one of the AlfaOBD threads.
Got a response here:


Found this posted in the main Alfa thread. Will add it to the front page.
In case anyone wants to add the factory powered side steps and does not want to pay the dealer for the added sales code here is what I changed in AlfaOBD. Took about 24 hours for the soft key on the 12" screen to show up and the settings option. Also when you deploy or retract the steps a little notification pops up on the gauge cluster.
I've attached photos of the 3 areas that were enabled. Cabin Net-PSSM Power Side Step Module; Cust.Set.Menu 3-Power Side Step Enable/Disable CSM Present; Cust.Set.Menu 2- Automatic Side Step CSM Present.
screenshot_20200522-162345-png.57398


screenshot_20200522-161956-png.57400


screenshot_20200522-161802-png.57401


If anyone wants to do this too

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damram

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Just completed installation of a set of RC Retract Powered Steps. Replaced a set of OEM wheel to wheel Stainless steps that came with the truck.
Went with the Rough Country for a few reasons:

1) About $500 cheaper than the Amp Steps
2) I like how they swing out
3) I like the look of how they sit when retracted

I would rate the install about a 3.5 out of 5. I had easier time with the passenger side than the driver side. For some reason the driver side step wouldn't fall into the channel nicely, so a lot of cussing ensued for the next 45 minutes. Seemed I had the idler arms on too tight at first, but even after loosening it all up, the step took a while to sit into the channel completely.
Instructions were decent, and not many videos available to reference. I did find one youtube video(he may be a forum member), and took notes where needed. I took my time, and basically installed these steps over 2 days, the last of it today just tying up the LED wiring under the cab and final tweaking to get them in time and tucked up as high as possible. If I had to estimate how long, I'd say about 6 hours, give or take an hour. I had to remove the OEM steps first, so it took a bit longer.

View attachment 121311 View attachment 121336

View attachment 121332 View attachment 121333
-Mounted the control box to the dash frame behind the center console
-Ran the power wire through the grommet in the firewall.
The wiring harnesses were well labeled, but there is a 2 pin connector that plugs into the factory harness behind the kick panel. That wire was tape wrapped to the passenger side LED wire, so it made for a difficult run across the cabin to the driver side.

View attachment 121312
Here is where it helped it helped to have the right tools. Instructions has you pull back the carpet to expose that floor plug that is about 2/3rds covered with sound deadening to run your wiring.
-I used my DREMEL tool to remove the sound deadening that was covering the plug in the floor. Then used a chisel to pop it out. Passenger side was even easier. This tool was a time saver. The sound deadening was way too thick to cut through. Using the proper blade attachment, I just scraped and leveled it until the floor plug was clear and I could pop it out freely.
-With the plug out it made it easier to drill the hole for the motor and LED wiring.
-I used clear RTV sealant to close the exposed hole in the floor plug before I replaced the carpet back down.
View attachment 121313
View attachment 121318 View attachment 121320
Once I finally got both sides installed, each sided needed to be positioned so when retracted the step sits centered under the cab.
The built in LED's in the step, with my LED strips under the cab. It is pretty bright!
After adjusting idler arms, step is tucked up pretty good. Nicely centered on both sides.
View attachment 121321 View attachment 121326
The RC steps, when fully retracted, tuck under the cab nicely. Do miss the wheel to wheel look, but the OEM steps stuck out a TON!
I like how the RC's sit under the cab retracted compared to the AMP step, and I dig how they swing out when activated, like wings, lol. Each to his own, I guess...:)

So far, so good. Happy how it looks and functions, will see how they hold up. Steps feel pretty robust, thick and sturdy. I have lost some shin skin to it already during this install.
Definitely changed the look of the truck, and only shiny parts left are my tailgate and grill emblems and lug nuts.
Last on the list, wheels and tires. Well, last on the list for this quarter, lol.
I also have the RC retractable steps. I didn’t bother to remove the floor plugs when I installed them, I just drilled a hole through the plugs to run the wires and then sealed it with silicone. Looking through the instructions I couldn’t figure out why you would want/need to remove them.
 

jmbennington

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Just completed installation of a set of RC Retract Powered Steps. Replaced a set of OEM wheel to wheel Stainless steps that came with the truck.
Went with the Rough Country for a few reasons:

1) About $500 cheaper than the Amp Steps
2) I like how they swing out
3) I like the look of how they sit when retracted

I would rate the install about a 3.5 out of 5. I had easier time with the passenger side than the driver side. For some reason the driver side step wouldn't fall into the channel nicely, so a lot of cussing ensued for the next 45 minutes. Seemed I had the idler arms on too tight at first, but even after loosening it all up, the step took a while to sit into the channel completely.
Instructions were decent, and not many videos available to reference. I did find one youtube video(he may be a forum member), and took notes where needed. I took my time, and basically installed these steps over 2 days, the last of it today just tying up the LED wiring under the cab and final tweaking to get them in time and tucked up as high as possible. If I had to estimate how long, I'd say about 6 hours, give or take an hour. I had to remove the OEM steps first, so it took a bit longer.

View attachment 121311 View attachment 121336

View attachment 121332 View attachment 121333
-Mounted the control box to the dash frame behind the center console
-Ran the power wire through the grommet in the firewall.
The wiring harnesses were well labeled, but there is a 2 pin connector that plugs into the factory harness behind the kick panel. That wire was tape wrapped to the passenger side LED wire, so it made for a difficult run across the cabin to the driver side.

View attachment 121312
Here is where it helped it helped to have the right tools. Instructions has you pull back the carpet to expose that floor plug that is about 2/3rds covered with sound deadening to run your wiring.
-I used my DREMEL tool to remove the sound deadening that was covering the plug in the floor. Then used a chisel to pop it out. Passenger side was even easier. This tool was a time saver. The sound deadening was way too thick to cut through. Using the proper blade attachment, I just scraped and leveled it until the floor plug was clear and I could pop it out freely.
-With the plug out it made it easier to drill the hole for the motor and LED wiring.
-I used clear RTV sealant to close the exposed hole in the floor plug before I replaced the carpet back down.
View attachment 121313
View attachment 121318 View attachment 121320
Once I finally got both sides installed, each sided needed to be positioned so when retracted the step sits centered under the cab.
The built in LED's in the step, with my LED strips under the cab. It is pretty bright!
After adjusting idler arms, step is tucked up pretty good. Nicely centered on both sides.
View attachment 121321 View attachment 121326
The RC steps, when fully retracted, tuck under the cab nicely. Do miss the wheel to wheel look, but the OEM steps stuck out a TON!
I like how the RC's sit under the cab retracted compared to the AMP step, and I dig how they swing out when activated, like wings, lol. Each to his own, I guess...:)

So far, so good. Happy how it looks and functions, will see how they hold up. Steps feel pretty robust, thick and sturdy. I have lost some shin skin to it already during this install.
Definitely changed the look of the truck, and only shiny parts left are my tailgate and grill emblems and lug nuts.
Last on the list, wheels and tires. Well, last on the list for this quarter, lol.
I’m looking at these and wondering how they’re doing for you now?
 

MikeyHo808

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Awesome thank you. I ordered them and I’ll have them Monday.


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Congrats! Hope you’ll be happy with them as much as I am. Install isn’t that bad. Aligning them can be a bit time consuming, tho.
I centered mine in the closed position relative to the swing out motion. Lock down the motor arm first once you have it where you want it.
The 2 unmotorized arm positions are crucial to ensuring that the steps open and close evenly. So keep them loose for adjusting until you’re happy with the timing of them. Trust me, you’ll notice if they need adjusting. Good luck and enjoy!!!👍
 

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