Roof top solar

[boogielander]

Sounds about right. Gobs of money for little energy. The way of the green!

yeap. that's why my solar setup is only for creature comforts like running starlink gen 2 (quite power hungry), fridge, camper lights, laptop, diesel heater lol

my friends joke that i got an EV but coming from someone who sold his raptor for a Tesla model 3 "for adulting"... that's hilarious lol

 

[boogielander]

The thought was a 1-2-off battery switch. I could select where the power is being distributed to through that switch, select started battery or portable. Not charge both at the same time but choose one.

Also this is a video I found on mounting the flex panels... He has a long term update which show it worked well

you SHOULD be fine with leaving it charging on the starting battery as long as you body ground it.
and those tapes... good luck with your paint when it comes time to replace the panels lol panels degrade overtime and no panel lasts forever.

tbh, if you're worried about the starting battery failing, just bring a noco jumper with you. i brought mine with me on the 50 day 12.7k miles trip and i used it to hold down papers and paper plates instead.
if you're worried about the 12.4v while driving, there's nothing to worry about. that is completely normal during cruising.
if you just want to charge your house battery while not damaging your paint with no camper or bed rack to mount your panel on, then just do portable panels and set them up while camping, or just do a DC-DC w/ MPPT so you can harness the energy from when engine's running and use solar as a secondary source.

 

[jalake]

you SHOULD be fine with leaving it charging on the starting battery as long as you body ground it.
and those tapes... good luck with your paint when it comes time to replace the panels lol panels degrade overtime and no panel lasts forever.

tbh, if you're worried about the starting battery failing, just bring a noco jumper with you. i brought mine with me on the 50 day 12.7k miles trip and i used it to hold down papers and paper plates instead.
if you're worried about the 12.4v while driving, there's nothing to worry about. that is completely normal during cruising.
if you just want to charge your house battery while not damaging your paint with no camper or bed rack to mount your panel on, then just do portable panels and set them up while camping, or just do a DC-DC w/ MPPT so you can harness the energy from when engine's running and use solar as a secondary source.

How did you wire your DC/DC charger? Also where did you connect ignition wire,? I may go that path

 

[boogielander]

How did you wire your DC/DC charger? Also where did you connect ignition wire,? I may go that path

DCDC wired from starting battery, ign is tapped to my switch pro 9100, which is ign triggered and also powers the backlights of my BD lp9, so when the engine's running the two little amber lights in the LP9 are on as well as the charger.
runnign to the bed go with 6 or 8 awg. I started with 8 thinking it was enough but eventually swapped to 6 awg to handle more load over longer distances. the ign trigger can be just a 14awg wire.

be sure to run a Blue Sea 60A circuit breaker in the front as well. not china sea, Blue Sea.

Boogielander Build – Part 10 – In-depth View of Electrical System for

Introduction Electrical systems are critical to a successful modern overlanding trip. Everything that we rely on for a good overlanding experience relies on various reliable electrical systems that are added aftermarket. In this article, I will be going over an in-depth view of the most current...

jollyrogueco.com

this is a very simple overview of my setup. take a look.

 

[kapinallinen2]

They will not because it has not thrown error codes besides when the battery dies. The 48v tested slightly low but not low enough for their specs to replace. My thoughts are it's with the communication inside the 48v of when to charge the starter battery

This should not be so difficult, if the 48 volt battery is getting charged and the 12 volt one is not, what is left? Not saying the DC-DC converter is bad but the 48 volt pack is in control.
They already shotgunned with the MGU, why not continue with the same troubleshooting tactic and replace the 48 V pack.

 

[kapinallinen2]

just bring a noco jumper.

I don`t leave home without my permanently mounted jump battery. Pardon the clutter, could not find an image with just the battery.

 

[boogielander]

I don`t leave home without my permanently mounted jump battery. Pardon the clutter, could not find an image with just the battery.
View attachment 191591

clutter? that's no clutter!
the LiFEPO4 I got in the back is not rated for jumpstarting but that's totally fine with me lol

if my noco dies because I forgot to charge it and I need it... I deserve to be stranded.

 

[jalake]

This should not be so difficult, if the 48 volt battery is getting charged and the 12 volt one is not, what is left? Not saying the DC-DC converter is bad but the 48 volt pack is in control.
They already shotgunned with the MGU, why not continue with the same troubleshooting tactic and replace the 48 V pack.
View attachment 191590

Cost. That's the simple answer, the dealer will not get reimbursed for the 48v replacement unless a star tech approves it

 

[kapinallinen2]

Cost. That's the simple answer, the dealer will not get reimbursed for the 48v replacement unless a star tech approves it

Did not know that.

 

[Threesuns1]

I don`t leave home without my permanently mounted jump battery. Pardon the clutter, could not find an image with just the battery.
View attachment 191591

Where's the duct tape?

 

[kapinallinen2]

Where's the duct tape?

I use gorilla tape, duct tape doesn't hold a candle to.

 

[boogielander]

I use gorilla tape, duct tape doesn't hold a candle to.

hmm what about flexseal LOL

 

[jalake]

DCDC wired from starting battery, ign is tapped to my switch pro 9100, which is ign triggered and also powers the backlights of my BD lp9, so when the engine's running the two little amber lights in the LP9 are on as well as the charger.
runnign to the bed go with 6 or 8 awg. I started with 8 thinking it was enough but eventually swapped to 6 awg to handle more load over longer distances. the ign trigger can be just a 14awg wire.

be sure to run a Blue Sea 60A circuit breaker in the front as well. not china sea, Blue Sea.

Boogielander Build – Part 10 – In-depth View of Electrical System for

Introduction Electrical systems are critical to a successful modern overlanding trip. Everything that we rely on for a good overlanding experience relies on various reliable electrical systems that are added aftermarket. In this article, I will be going over an in-depth view of the most current...

jollyrogueco.com

this is a very simple overview of my setup. take a look.

Installed a redarc DC/DC - MPPT charger today. Just need a switched ignition source. Thinking about the fused ignition wire in the rear seat heater wire harness. (Don't have that option installed but harness is there) Just need to figure out if it's live. Not sure if it's pinned to the fuse panel or not.

 

[jalake]

DCDC wired from starting battery, ign is tapped to my switch pro 9100, which is ign triggered and also powers the backlights of my BD lp9, so when the engine's running the two little amber lights in the LP9 are on as well as the charger.
runnign to the bed go with 6 or 8 awg. I started with 8 thinking it was enough but eventually swapped to 6 awg to handle more load over longer distances. the ign trigger can be just a 14awg wire.

be sure to run a Blue Sea 60A circuit breaker in the front as well. not china sea, Blue Sea.

Boogielander Build – Part 10 – In-depth View of Electrical System for

Introduction Electrical systems are critical to a successful modern overlanding trip. Everything that we rely on for a good overlanding experience relies on various reliable electrical systems that are added aftermarket. In this article, I will be going over an in-depth view of the most current...

jollyrogueco.com

this is a very simple overview of my setup. take a look.

Also, since you have some experience building these set ups here's some questions:

The wiring diagram shows only a positive wire to the battery, negative to a chassis ground. This will function properly without connecting to the negative terminal of the starter battery correct?

I am running my lithium battery in a portable box so I've run my DC/DC charger output and a ground wire from chassis ground to an Anderson plug to charge the lithium. Any issues you can see?

 

[boogielander]

Also, since you have some experience building these set ups here's some questions:

The wiring diagram shows only a positive wire to the battery, negative to a chassis ground. This will function properly without connecting to the negative terminal of the starter battery correct?

I am running my lithium battery in a portable box so I've run my DC/DC charger output and a ground wire from chassis ground to an Anderson plug to charge the lithium. Any issues you can see?

yes, you don't want to connect it directly to the neg on battery because there's a sensor on it and body grounding everything is always the best practice.
and item number two that's actually my preferred way of connecting the box. just make sure the connector you use are 1. legit Anderson/ Powerpole branded ones and not some cheap ones off Amazon and 2. are 50A or more. It'd be a good idea to throw in a fuse between the charger and the battery box as well, if the box doesn't come with one.

 

[boogielander]

Installed a redarc DC/DC - MPPT charger today. Just need a switched ignition source. Thinking about the fused ignition wire in the rear seat heater wire harness. (Don't have that option installed but harness is there) Just need to figure out if it's live. Not sure if it's pinned to the fuse panel or not.

im not sure about the rear seat heated seat because i don't have that option and i've never bothered with it lol
i used F59 in the engine bay fuse box, if you need one out there.

 

[jalake]

yes, you don't want to connect it directly to the neg on battery because there's a sensor on it and body grounding everything is always the best practice.
and item number two that's actually my preferred way of connecting the box. just make sure the connector you use are 1. legit Anderson/ Powerpole branded ones and not some cheap ones off Amazon and 2. are 50A or more. It'd be a good idea to throw in a fuse between the charger and the battery box as well, if the box doesn't come with one.

Awesome thanks for your help! I'll just have to find out if that wire for fused ignition is actually working

 

[boogielander]

Awesome thanks for your help! I'll just have to find out if that wire for fused ignition is actually working

F59 is confirmed to work and worked through Alaska and Arctic Ocean with no issue. if that heated seat one doesn't work then you can use that one in confidence!

 

[kapinallinen2]

hmm what about flexseal LOL

Flex seal turns to powder after a while due to UV radiation.

 

[jalake]

F59 is confirmed to work and worked through Alaska and Arctic Ocean with no issue. if that heated seat one doesn't work then you can use that one in confidence!

I confirmed the fused ignition under rear seat is live, if it is on the truck of anyone reading this. That is my trigger for DC/DC charger