CHeYeNNe71
Ram Guru
I'll probably just stick with the reverse level and upgrade with Bilstein 6112/5160's.
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Rock Crawler’s Build
- Thread starter Rock Crawler
- Start date
UPDATE:
Well, the remote control air system works well, but the digital air gauge is pretty much worthless. I thought that I would be able to air up each bag to a specific pressure and know what pressure I need to air them up to to maintain a specific ride height. The pressure seems to never read the same and if the gauge is left on while driving, the min/max pressure alarms keep going off because the pressure changes ever time the truck bounces. It became extremely annoying. I don’t even use it anymore. But, I can still adjust the ride height of each side by simply using the remote. It’s primitive, but I just put my hand between the top of the wheel well and the tire and my four fingers vertically just happens to be the height that matches the front. Not perfect, but it works. Eventually, I will add an air coupler to the back of the truck so I can air up tires anytime/anywhere if need be. I had it on my diesel truck and it came in handy multiple times.
Well, the remote control air system works well, but the digital air gauge is pretty much worthless. I thought that I would be able to air up each bag to a specific pressure and know what pressure I need to air them up to to maintain a specific ride height. The pressure seems to never read the same and if the gauge is left on while driving, the min/max pressure alarms keep going off because the pressure changes ever time the truck bounces. It became extremely annoying. I don’t even use it anymore. But, I can still adjust the ride height of each side by simply using the remote. It’s primitive, but I just put my hand between the top of the wheel well and the tire and my four fingers vertically just happens to be the height that matches the front. Not perfect, but it works. Eventually, I will add an air coupler to the back of the truck so I can air up tires anytime/anywhere if need be. I had it on my diesel truck and it came in handy multiple times.
Changed the oil, oil filter, air filter, and cabin air filter. I also installed a Fumoto drain valve. I added a rubber cap I had laying around to keep the drain tip clean.
I modified my Skeerdy Cat skid plate so it no longer interferes with the arms on my 2-post lift. The skid plate was in the way of the lifting points on the frame. This was forcing me to use a spot further back, which was fairly sketchy to me. After the modification, I can now utilize the correct lifting point up front. I mounted the cut-outs upright to cover the lower section of the cats so they can’t be cut. It‘s not perfect, but it lets me keep the skid plate and provides a safer way to put my truck on the lift.
I modified my Skeerdy Cat skid plate so it no longer interferes with the arms on my 2-post lift. The skid plate was in the way of the lifting points on the frame. This was forcing me to use a spot further back, which was fairly sketchy to me. After the modification, I can now utilize the correct lifting point up front. I mounted the cut-outs upright to cover the lower section of the cats so they can’t be cut. It‘s not perfect, but it lets me keep the skid plate and provides a safer way to put my truck on the lift.
Ready Go
Ram Guru
Is that the Fumoto with the short nipple? Any clearance issue with the swaybar hitting it? I'm not too jazzed about the F106SX with the banjo bolt that I've seen some use here..would rather use the short nipple one of it fits safely. Thanks!
I'm assuming it is the short nipple. It is pretty short and does not really come close to the sway bar.
Ready Go
Ram Guru
Thanks..I'm on the fence!
I want to use the F106S (short nipple) but most here are using the F106SX (banjo bolt/side drain).
I feel like the difference has to be pretty minimal..and if the S seems too close, the nipple fitting can be removed from the valve when not draining.
I recently started having an issue with the rear air suspension. Air pressure kept changing on its own. Sometimes one side would air up on its own and one side would lower. This would randomly happed on both sides. I could feel it while driving down the road. The ride became a little more bouncy and just felt off. I contacted Steven at Timber Grove and he informed me that this issue is caused by bad solenoids. He said the manifold block that I have is the older version that he sourced elsewhere and that none of the solenoids are repairable or replaceable. He told me that he has started making his own and is using replaceable solenoids. So, I ordered one the other day and swapped it out today. Fingers crossed that this issue if fixed.
Old manifold
New manifold
Old manifold
New manifold
CHeYeNNe71
Ram Guru
Kind of odd they would make without replaceable solenoids. Hopefully no more issues with the setup.
Well, I must have done something wrong. A few hours later, while sitting in the garage, the truck is now on the bump stops. I checked for leaks before buttoning everything up and did not find any. Oh, well. I’ll have to pull the assembly and pressure it up outside the truck. Job for Friday.
This has been an adventure for sure. Steven suggested that I just box up everything but the tank and brackets and ship it back to him to troubleshoot. He found that there were a couple of the new solenoids that had some issues, so he replaced them. He pressurized the system for a day or so and everything held. Got it all back the other day and reinstalled it. Everything seemed to work, but I noticed a small leak in the polycarbonate bowl on the ARO regulator/filter piggyback that I’ve added to the system. I’ve ordered a metal bowl for it and just waiting for it to arrive. While Steven had my on-board air kit, I had run some air lines from the bags to the back of the truck in a temporary location so I could keep using the truck. They held air for a couple of weeks with no issues. Part of me is wondering if the on-board air system is really worth it. I really like the ease of airing up the suspension with a small remote and I don’t have to rely of finding an air compressor to adjust the height when needed. I may have to look into Ridetech to see if there are other options. The Timber Grove bag kit it top quality and I’d highly recommend them, but the on-board air system troubles have been a little annoying.
CHeYeNNe71
Ram Guru
Can always grab something like Viair or even Rough Country compressor to air up whenever and just remove the on-board.
My on-board kit is a Viair compressor with a small tank. I will eventually be running an air line from the tank to the back of the truck and installing a coupler so I can hook up an air hose for airing up tires if needed. If I end up removing the manifold/solenoids, I’ll probably just use the air hose to manually air up the bags when needed. It’s just a pain because I can’t really tell how high each side is from the back. It’s much easier to stand at the tire and see the gap between the tire and wheel well. I have wheel well liners, so there is not a way to easily install and hide and Schrader valve in the wheel well. I’m going to get this metal bowl in and see what happens from here. I may eventually call Ride Tech to see if they have any options for my truck.
CHeYeNNe71
Ram Guru
Hopefully the metal bowl works. All that time and money involved.
Yeah, I don’t think the poly bowls llike the heat. Metal bowl should fix it.
Front Ridetech 2” drop coilovers to replace the Maxtrac 2” lowering struts and stock springs. More adjustability and a high quality product.
CHeYeNNe71
Ram Guru
Curious on the feedback.
I have not had the chance to drive it yet. Truck is clean and too much standing water around from all the rain we‘ve had. I’ll probably drive it to work tomorrow since the roads are drying up. The Jeep is always dirty and hasn’t been washed in probably a couple of years.
So, there is no night and day difference. I wasn’t expecting a huge difference, but it feels more planted and less soft, if that makes sense. Definitely a positive difference in the corners. I’m going to have to get with them for some rear adjustable shocks. I think that will help with the overall ride quality. Nothing against the Bilsteins, but the adjustability on the Ridetechs will be nice.
CHeYeNNe71
Ram Guru
I agree with having the same valving at all 4 corners so they're not fighting each other, possibly making the ride quality suck. That's why when people level and I recommend front struts, I also mention doing rear shocks at same time for this reason.
Installed Ridetech HQ adjustable rear shocks today. I’ll be driving it tomorrow to see how they are. Should be an improvement since front and rear are now matched valving.
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