REVERSE AUX LIGHTING

[HSKR R/T]

At this pointy, I'd suggest trying different lights

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

I’m not sure what the issue is. All fuses are good, all pins on the bumper read 14volts ???
I also bench tested both lights to a battery on my work bench and they both work fine….

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

To follow this I used some ssc2’s and they work fine from the harness I made for the other lights

 

[jkm312]

I used the same lights as you 3 years ago, still going strong. Only difference is I took the connection from the Kurt plug from the back side of the trailer plug so as not to cut into anything OEM. I did use some Posi-lock connectors I got from Amazon, Di electric greased all the connections as I taped and put them back together. Put everything in lumes, taped and wire tied everything up out of the way.

Ive been following along here. Seems you may have some sort of short/loose connection that went away when you pulled it apart. They are a nightmare to deal with. Could it be mice munching on part of it? At this point you might be just as far ahead to go ahead the rewire everything from scratch and call it a day.

The mice thing has caused me to slug it out with a couple of boat trailers along the way. I understand your frustration.



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[1BADRAMLIMITED]

I used the same lights as you 3 years ago, still going strong. Only difference is I took the connection from the Kurt plug from the back side of the trailer plug so as not to cut into anything OEM. I did use some Posi-lock connectors I got from Amazon, Di electric greased all the connections as I taped and put them back together. Put everything in lumes, taped and wire tied everything up out of the way.

Ive been following along here. Seems you may have some sort of short/loose connection that went away when you pulled it apart. They are a nightmare to deal with. Could it be mice munching on part of it? At this point you might be just as far ahead to go ahead the rewire everything from scratch and call it a day.

The mice thing has caused me to slug it out with a couple of boat trailers along the way. I understand your frustration.



ref=sr_1_3

I remade a new harness this go around and this time used a DT connector as well. I put dielectric grease on all connections.

In the video you can see the ssc2 work fine but these stupid Amazon ones won’t but I can’t figure out why?!

This is the harness I’m using to pull from the truck power/ground.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I remade a new harness this go around and this time used a DT connector as well. I put dielectric grease on all connections.

In the video you can see the ssc2 work fine but these stupid Amazon ones won’t but I can’t figure out why?!

This is the harness I’m using to pull from the truck power/ground.
View attachment 188407

It's the chitty Amazon lights. Stop wasting time trying to make them work. N

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

It's the chitty Amazon lights. Stop wasting time trying to make them work. N

But how do you explain them working off the truck on my bench? Tomorrow I’m going to see if they work with reverse polarity, I know some Chinese stuff works like that 😂

 

[Brutal_HO]

Ugh.

All this talk of splicing and soldering.

Crimp (or posilock if you must) and marine grade shrink tubing. A proper crimp will ALWAYS outperform a solder connection. There's a reason everything in the automotive/aircraft/military use crimped connections. I don't mean some cheesy autozone or harbor freight nylon splice crimper, but a proper ratcheting barrel crimp tool with an appropriate sized die.

As to the corrosion. Dielectric grease is preventative. If you have corrosion you need to remove or chemically clean and treat it before reapplying a Dielectric grease.

I prefer the CAIG DeoxIT products. Home - CAIG

If you need to wrap (after selaing), use Tesa tape, not cheap electrical tape. There's heat resistant (exterior) and the "fuzzy" interior wiring loom tape.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I2MLN2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPBB6L8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

Ugh.

All this talk of splicing and soldering.

Crimp (or posilock if you must) and marine grade shrink tubing. A proper crimp will ALWAYS outperform a solder connection. There's a reason everything in the automotive/aircraft/military use crimped connections. I don't mean some cheesy autozone or harbor freight nylon splice crimper, but a proper ratcheting barrel crimp tool with an appropriate sized die.

As to the corrosion. Dielectric grease is preventative. If you have corrosion you need to remove or chemically clean and treat it before reapplying a Dielectric grease.

I prefer the CAIG DeoxIT products. Home - CAIG

If you need to wrap (after selaing), use Tesa tape, not cheap electrical tape. There's heat resistant (exterior) and the "fuzzy" interior wiring loom tape.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I2MLN2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPBB6L8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do use crimp connectors when I feel lazy and want to get it done fast vs soldering. I have a crimp tool like you described and proper crimp connectors. I also use 3m electrical tape followed by the mesh tape or if I really want it to be nice I’ll use loom.