Rear spring spacers

[merdon1332000]

Does anyone have pictures of what they look like installed? have you had issues with them coming out( silly I know, I know guys that lost blocks back in the day)
Also any recommendations on brands with 1 to 1.5 inch spacers?

Goal - Install Bilsteins up front on max, a spacer in rear to give me a 1" above front, ready lift UCA if needed and then 35's keeping the stock blackout 20" rims if possible.

Any and all info is great

 

[Kingnothing]

I've been trying to find a set 1.5 inch rear spacers that mount on top of the springs, the only ones I can find are bottom mount. Not sure I trust the bottom mount spacers ,they look kind of unstable.

 

[merdon1332000]

I agree

 

[SD Rebel]

Based on my research, you don't want the 5100 Bilsteins on max, it will hurt the ride and only 2.5" height anyways. However, if you run the Readylift 2" top spacer (not preload spacer) and then run the Bilsteins at 1.5", it will get you 3.5" lift up front with good ride quality. Most don't recommend higher than 3.5" up front due to CV angle on 4WD trucks.

To level it off, a 1" spacer on the rear springs should be about perfect. I plan on buying the Readylift 2" level kit, their 1" rear spacer and Bilstein 5100 adjustable front struts. Should get my the height I need while maintaining ride quality.

I honestly don't know about the rear spacer in the question you asked, I'll check with my installer if he knows of any issues.

 

[5thGenLoco]

The spacer isn't going anywhere, even at full droop. The spacer is the same shape as the factory spring perch so no issues with the spring moving.

 

[merdon1332000]

Thanks, it's hard to see what I'm getting. Love to find part number for the mopar ones, the number I have is discontinued

 

[Kingnothing]

The spacer isn't going anywhere, even at full droop. The spacer is the same shape as the factory spring perch so no issues with the spring moving.
View attachment 70670

Yeah, that looks better than the other ones I've seen. Who makes that one?

 

[5thGenLoco]

Yeah, that looks better than the other ones I've seen. Who makes that one?

Motofab. Billet, solid fit. I would not use the poly spacers on a full sized pick up that gets loaded with gear. I have used poly on Jeeps and found the rears to compress/crush down some with just a couple of kids in back and a small amount of gear.

 

[Ram89]

Motofab. Billet, solid fit. I would not use the poly spacers on a full sized pick up that gets loaded with gear. I have used poly on Jeeps and found the rears to compress/crush down some with just a couple of kids in back and a small amount of gear.

Do you notice much noise/squeaking with those spacers in the rear?

 

[Ram1500rsm]

The spacer isn't going anywhere, even at full droop. The spacer is the same shape as the factory spring perch so no issues with the spring moving.
View attachment 70670

The spacer won't be going anywhere but how is the spring placed in the lower seat without the locator ? Is it just sitting on top of the spacer ? are you sure the spring won't move ? or perhaps it has its own locator as well ? (i don't see it the pic so i'd think it'll be ok if the spring can grab onto that)
The spring is supposed to hug the lower seat locator. You can also see my poor man's spring retainers, i don't need them with my setup but old habits never die so i just have them there just because prob something you could do if the spacer didn't have the spring locator.
2020-09-20_06-14-56 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

 

[Ram1500rsm]

Based on my research, you don't want the 5100 Bilsteins on max, it will hurt the ride and only 2.5" height anyways. However, if you run the Readylift 2" top spacer (not preload spacer) and then run the Bilsteins at 1.5", it will get you 3.5" lift up front with good ride quality. Most don't recommend higher than 3.5" up front due to CV angle on 4WD trucks.

To level it off, a 1" spacer on the rear springs should be about perfect. I plan on buying the Readylift 2" level kit, their 1" rear spacer and Bilstein 5100 adjustable front struts. Should get my the height I need while maintaining ride quality.

I honestly don't know about the rear spacer in the question you asked, I'll check with my installer if he knows of any issues.

Isn't that what the Readylift kit does, 3.5" using spacers ? And they have a note in their website regarding that kit: Not for offroad use. Don't exceed 22" from center of the hub to fender etc.

So why install a 2" top spacer that is physically over extending you strut lenght by 2" and on top of that add 1.5" extension to your shock shaft courtesy of the 5100's 1.5" notch ? TYpically it's safe to extend the physical lenght of the strut by about an inch providing your UCA's won't bind. Which is why you guys now have extended travel coilovers. 2.5" lift via 5100's is super safe, you could go to 3" with say 1/2" spacer on top of that and still keep your CV's in good spirits for a long time.

When you need more than 3" you tipically want to make the jump to a bracket lift. why ? you get hub spindles that will relocate your tie rods and control arms to the needed angle to run say 4" on top of what stock height was and will also drop your diff so everything cycles up and down in a relative ok or same as stock range.

Hope it makes sense.

 

[SD Rebel]

Isn't that what the Readylift kit does, 3.5" using spacers ? And they have a note in their website regarding that kit: Not for offroad use. Don't exceed 22" from center of the hub to fender etc.

So why install a 2" top spacer that is physically over extending you strut lenght by 2" and on top of that add 1.5" extension to your shock shaft courtesy of the 5100's 1.5" notch ? TYpically it's safe to extend the physical lenght of the strut by about an inch providing your UCA's won't bind. Which is why you guys now have extended travel coilovers. 2.5" lift via 5100's is super safe, you could go to 3" with say 1/2" spacer on top of that and still keep your CV's in good spirits for a long time.

When you need more than 3" you tipically want to make the jump to a bracket lift. why ? you get hub spindles that will relocate your tie rods and control arms to the needed angle to run say 4" on top of what stock height was and will also drop your diff so everything cycles up and down in a relative ok or same as stock range.

Hope it makes sense.

Yes, that's is why is has such a harsh ride to it. It uses two types of spacers, the top hat spacer and a preload spacer. The preload spacer is the issue, it will harsh up the ride significantly. Some people want more height beyond the 2" level but without the expense of a full lift kit, by using the top spacer and the 5100 adjustable front shocks (instead of the preload spacer) can get that height without negatively effecting the ride quality.

You don't want to fully extend the 5100 or it will also negatively effect the ride as well. So the top spacer at 2", then 1.5" from the 5100. However, you are saying you shouldn't go beyond 3" even with the aftermarket UCA's?

 

[Ram1500rsm]

Yes, that's is why is has such a harsh ride to it. It uses two types of spacers, the top hat spacer and a preload spacer. The preload spacer is the issue, it will harsh up the ride significantly. Some people want more height beyond the 2" level but without the expense of a full lift kit, by using the top spacer and the 5100 adjustable front shocks (instead of the preload spacer) can get that height without negatively effecting the ride quality.

However, you are saying you shouldn't go beyond 3" even with the aftermarket UCA's?

Correct, the geometry past 3" tipically goes to hell factory CV's get munched up quicker, factory UCA's BJ can pop , factory UCA's can hit your springs, etc. Seems to be about the same across most IFS applications that use factory style A arms. I've lifted Toyota Tacomas and FJC, Nissan Xterra, Chevy Silverado, RAM 1500 etc, Been around the Tundra dudes helping with Installs too (neighbors, trail friends etc). Most want a diff drop at 3". RAM's seem a little more forgiven at least when it comes to the 3" mark though we don't have many at the 3" mark in the 4th gen case the sweet spot is 2.5-2.75 for performance shocks, i keep mine at 2.75" personally and i'm also barely at the limit of what my shocks can extended to support the weight of my bumper and winch. I could go to 3" but i value the ride more a little bit low

Don't know exactly how new gen truck reacts to lift without the bracket lifts and how high it's safe to go. Keep in mind when you check for CV angles asides from ride height, you should also put the wheels in the air and check how everything looks down there. I know if the arftermarket is making extended hi performance stuff is because they have tested is safe though they all advertise to use aftermaket UCA's with offset, and extended travel is for the most part 1" extended from stock.

Also regarding the preload spacer, 5100's use in concept what a preload spacer will do to your factory struts. You're moving the lower seat up in the 5100 case preloading your coil springs giving you more lift while extending your strut shaft a certain amount. If you don't have enough droop in the shaft you can run into issues with the shocks toping out and thus feeling harsh when you hit a speedbump, pothole or any road imperfection tha forces the shocks to extend. It gets worst when you add heavy wheels/tires and your struts have street oriented valving. in the case of 5100's, they're actually a tad shorter than our stock struts, go figures, so when people go to the max they're reaching the max of the shocks very quick.

Hopefully this animated gif explains what i'm saying better

https://accutuneoffroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/coilover-animate.gif

If the preload spacer is not that big that puts your strut closed to max then the ride shouldn't change for the worst, all you doing with the preload spacer is preloading the spring just enough to push your truck weight up while extending your shock shaft a certain amount. If your shock can't extend more than what the shaft can physically extend then the truck wouldn't go up and now you'll be creating something even worst
So Every inch you go up using preload steals lenght from your shocks extended lenght which is why most manufacturers don't recommend to exceed certain preload range from your Coilovers for example.

Top spacers will relocate the entire strut assembly down literally giving you a lot longer struts. You can have longer struts with IFS just not long enogh to exceed your IFS proper operating range. Now that's easier said that done. That's why you get wider LCA's with long travel kits, longer tie-rods, longer CV's etc, etc etc.

The crowd that doesn't offroad and lift for looks don't care about the specifics, Readylift at least tells them if you get this kit don't offroad with it

Hope you have fun.

 

[SD Rebel]

Correct, the geometry past 3" tipically goes to hell factory CV's get munched up quicker, factory UCA's BJ can pop , factory UCA's can hit your springs, etc. Seems to be about the same across most IFS applications that use factory style A arms. I've lifted Toyota Tacomas and FJC, Nissan Xterra, Chevy Silverado, RAM 1500 etc, Been around the Tundra dudes helping with Installs too (neighbors, trail friends etc). Most want a diff drop at 3". RAM's seem a little more forgiven at least when it comes to the 3" mark though we don't have many at the 3" mark in the 4th gen case the sweet spot is 2.5-2.75 for performance shocks, i keep mine at 2.75" personally and i'm also barely at the limit of what my shocks can extended to support the weight of my bumper and winch. I could go to 3" but i value the ride more a little bit low

Don't know exactly how new gen truck reacts to lift without the bracket lifts and how high it's safe to go. Keep in mind when you check for CV angles asides from ride height, you should also put the wheels in the air and check how everything looks down there. I know if the arftermarket is making extended hi performance stuff is because they have tested is safe though they all advertise to use aftermaket UCA's with offset, and extended travel is for the most part 1" extended from stock.

Also regarding the preload spacer, 5100's use in concept what a preload spacer will do to your factory struts. You're moving the lower seat up in the 5100 case preloading your coil springs giving you more lift while extending your strut shaft a certain amount. If you don't have enough droop in the shaft you can run into issues with the shocks toping out and thus feeling harsh when you hit a speedbump, pothole or any road imperfection tha forces the shocks to extend. It gets worst when you add heavy wheels/tires and your struts have street oriented valving. in the case of 5100's, they're actually a tad shorter than our stock struts, go figures, so when people go to the max they're reaching the max of the shocks very quick.

Hopefully this animated gif explains what i'm saying better

https://accutuneoffroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/coilover-animate.gif

If the preload spacer is not that big that puts your strut closed to max then the ride shouldn't change for the worst, all you doing with the preload spacer is preloading the spring just enough to push your truck weight up while extending your shock shaft a certain amount. If your shock can't extend more than what the shaft can physically extend then the truck wouldn't go up and now you'll be creating something even worst
So Every inch you go up using preload steals lenght from your shocks extended lenght which is why most manufacturers don't recommend to exceed certain preload range from your Coilovers for example.

Top spacers will relocate the entire strut assembly down literally giving you a lot longer struts. You can have longer struts with IFS just not long enogh to exceed your IFS proper operating range. Now that's easier said that done. That's why you get wider LCA's with long travel kits, longer tie-rods, longer CV's etc, etc etc.

The crowd that doesn't offroad and lift for looks don't care about the specifics, Readylift at least tells them if you get this kit don't offroad with it

Hope you have fun.

Makes senses to me, thanks for posting. I haven't done anything yet with my RAM (though I have with other trucks), I am considering my lift based on this forum and what people have been saying, you have definitely given me so additional things to think about compared to what I was told earlier. Either way, I'll need to do some more research before moving forward with my lift/level.

 

[5thGenLoco]

Do you notice much noise/squeaking with those spacers in the rear?

None whatsoever

 

[5thGenLoco]

The spacer won't be going anywhere but how is the spring placed in the lower seat without the locator ? Is it just sitting on top of the spacer ? are you sure the spring won't move ? or perhaps it has its own locator as well ? (i don't see it the pic so i'd think it'll be ok if the spring can grab onto that)
The spring is supposed to hug the lower seat locator. You can also see my poor man's spring retainers, i don't need them with my setup but old habits never die so i just have them there just because prob something you could do if the spacer didn't have the spring locator.
2020-09-20_06-14-56 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

The spacer has a locator as well.

2009-2024 Dodge RAM 1500 4WD 1" rear lift kit

2009-2022 Dodge RAM 1500 4WD 1

motofablifts.com