Rear end clunk

[bosco88]

I'm also interested to know how long the teflon grease works for. Don't want to use it if it doesn't last very long.

Follow up question from earlier - what is the torque spec for the drive shaft bolts? I am buying new bolts (not reusing) and wish to ensure I reassemble the drive shaft with the correct torque. I can't seem to find it online. Thanks!

 

[kapinallinen2]

 

[My1stHemi]

How long as this help up for you so far? Do you reapply every once in a while?

It is a maintenance item. I can’t recall how long ago I first did this but it’s 90% better. I could probably chase that 10% and reapply, but my time has been reallocated the last two years with my boat refurb/upgrade project.

Be ready with a set of files to remove any burrs and galling caused by lack of lube from the factory.

 

[My1stHemi]

View attachment 189023

That’s interesting. These aren’t like head studs or something torqued super hard that stretches. I may replace my hardware next time but I haven’t had any failures yet.

 

[Drivinfast247]

It is a maintenance item. I can’t recall how long ago I first did this but it’s 90% better. I could probably chase that 10% and reapply, but my time has been reallocated the last two years with my boat refurb/upgrade project.

Be ready with a set of files to remove any burrs and galling caused by lack of lube from the factory.

If it's a "maintenance item", why would we have to remove burrs from a factory error? Hmmmm....

 

[My1stHemi]

If it's a "maintenance item", why would we have to remove burrs from a factory error? Hmmmm....

You have to remove burrs that were cause by galling due to the lack of grease from the factory. After you make the repair and apply appropriate lubrication, I would recommend that the drive shaft is at some point inspected and that more grease is applied depending on your situation/use. Hence, it becomes a maintenance item if someone cares to do so and for no other reason.

 

[Bt10]

You have to remove burrs that were cause by galling due to the lack of grease from the factory. After you make the repair and apply appropriate lubrication, I would recommend that the drive shaft is at some point inspected and that more grease is applied depending on your situation/use. Hence, it becomes a maintenance item if someone cares to do so and for no other reason.

I think I asked earlier in this thread, but you seem to be the best one to ask now. GM has a grease zerk for their front sliding spline driveshaft; could one be installed at this location?

 

[My1stHemi]

I think I asked earlier in this thread, but you seem to be the best one to ask now. GM has a grease zerk for their front sliding spline driveshaft; could one be installed at this location?

Unfortunately I don’t think the design of the splines and the driveshaft tube on our trucks are the right fit for a zerk fitting. I’m going off memory here so anyone can feel free to correct me, but the wall thickness is relatively thin(it’s not a solid shaft end piece that is milled with splines) and the surface area is rather large. I don’t think a single well-placed grease fitting would disperse grease uniformly or effectively.
I am no driveshaft expert, but I feel that the issue we face could be drastically resolved by better lubrication from the factory and also perhaps a low friction coating on the splines since lubricating the joint is a more involved and invasive than a typical maintenance activity and 99.8% of owners will never perform this task.
My ‘07 2500 4x4 had a real PITA grease fitting on the front drive shaft but that was for a yoke and not a spline. Much smaller surface area to lubricate.

 

[ram0686]

You are correct in that the outer driveshaft housing is made of thin material. Each spline needs separate attention. Just an additional item to document and add grease. I'm at roughly 20,000 additional miles since I disassembled. Will await cooler temps and re-grease. Other than this issue, it's been a trouble free truck that still rides well, and performs when you push the pedal.