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Readylift 2" Level with Control Arms

troutspinner

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On time as planned, I received my Readylift 2" Level with Control Arms Kit today. I'll try to document this as much as I can as I go. I'll be installing it tomorrow, I don't see it necessary to show install steps as that is well documented from Readylift themselves but I'll follow up with a pic to show the angle of the UCA after it is installed.

Here is how it arrived, nicely packaged.

box0.jpg

One Arm
box1.jpg

Other Arm
box2.jpg


These are the miscellaneous parts (bushings, sleeves, grease, cotter pins)
misc.jpg

The other box with the spacers and nuts and instructions
spacers.jpg



One thing to note about the instructions. The ones they sent were not specifically for the 2019 but from Gen 4 up. While the procedure is the same, the 2019 instructions available on the Readylift site have specific alignment specs. While I do not know the specs for stock, I will be sure to give these specs to my alignment shop on Monday.....just in case.
 

Accountant

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Cool! I’d like to see how you separate the uca from the spindle. Several different ways but good to learn what people prefer. Thanks!
 

ksn240

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Cool! I’d like to see how you separate the uca from the spindle. Several different ways but good to learn what people prefer. Thanks!
A couple gentle taps with a hammer was all it took for mine. It helps doing it with only 1000 miles on the truck.

Good luck on the install, only took about two and a half hours with a second set of hands
 

VaderRebel

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A couple gentle taps with a hammer was all it took for mine. It helps doing it with only 1000 miles on the truck.

Good luck on the install, only took about two and a half hours with a second set of hands
Lucky you, I had to use the more "aggressive approach" in combination with a large rubber mallet.

Took over 4 hours, solo. It's doable either way.
 

ET32913

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I didn’t go this route but I really like that you don’t have to disassemble the strut with this kit. Should save you some time and not having to compress springs is awesome!
 

troutspinner

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So my buddy and I tackled the install today. 3 1/2 hours beginning to a completed test drive. Not too shabby. The second side was a breeze as we then had knowledge of exactly what to do. I am not a mechanic by any means but do have a good mechanical aptitude and enjoy working on cars. My buddy is not a "mechanic" per se but he's been rebuilding cars his whole life and knows his stuff and has all the cool toys (tools) ;)

The instructions were good. The only bad part about the install was that no nut spacers were included in the kit. The nut spacers are suppose to go before the castle nut at the upper control arm ball joint. Fortunately my buddy had some good, thick washers that we double stacked so that we were able to complete the install. The reason for the spacer is so that the cotter pin lines up with the hole in the screw on the ball joint. So be sure to check your contents before you install.

We did have to use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the stock upper control arm. We tried pounding the heck out of it but it just wouldn't release. Since we were replacing the arms, damaging a seal was not an issue but if you are just adding a spacer, be careful, we did booger up the old seals.

The only other thing that was an issue and will be remedied Monday during my alignment is that we could not torque the lower strut to the lower control arm to the specified 150lbs. Since we did not have a lift, getting leverage under the truck to get to 150lbs was near impossible. I know they are close, probably 140 but I'll ask the guy at the shop to take a torque wrench to them when it is up on the lift for the alignment.


Here is a completed / after picture.

after.jpg



I did not take a before picture today but just for comparison, this is a pic I took after I had it ceramic coated. Yes, my truck needs a wash. ;)

before.jpg



And just for the heck of it, a picture of my truck's front end compared to a 4th gen that is stock.

comparison.jpg



I mentioned that I would take a picture of the angle of the ball joint, here it is.

angle.jpg


As for ride, no difference really. If you've ever leveled your truck, you know how bumps feel like they are more under the truck after the level rather than in front of the truck, under is preferred IMO.

Measurements after than install is 39" from the ground to the top of the wheel well opening up front and 40" at the back so I still have a 1" rake. For my needs that worked out perfect as I do tow a 3500lb. boat and some gear in the bed of the truck.

Alignment Monday and then new Rims and Tires on Tuesday. Tires pictured are 275/65R18 (32.1" tall x 10.8" wide x 7" sidewall). I stayed conservative and am getting 275/65R20 tires (34.1" tall x 10.8" wide x 7" sidewall). I could probably pull off 35's since this is an Off Road Package truck but I think 35's would make it look stuffed. Width, I wanted to remain near factory just to keep the type of ride I was use to with my last truck and this truck.

Not sure if this will help anyone but it was worth posting if it does.
 

XDBrad

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Thanks for the info and looks sweet by the way. I’m ordering my kit on Monday so it’s nice to know the details (such as the spacers) before I start.
 

wolf1776

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Looks great! Thanks for the pics. Because you have the off road package and added on top of the factory 1" lift, did you actually get about a 3" lift when its all said and done?
 

troutspinner

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Looks great! Thanks for the pics. Because you have the off road package and added on top of the factory 1" lift, did you actually get about a 3" lift when its all said and done?

I got a true 2” above where I started. If you placed my truck next to a non-ORP truck, there would be a 3” difference.
 

troutspinner

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That's what I thought, thank you. I think the Mopar 2" Lift Kit would give the same result too?

It is my understanding that the Mopar kit replaces your struts so you would only get a true 1” increase with that kit on a ORP truck as the ORP includes a strut that is 1” taller than standard.
 

Icecold77

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On time as planned, I received my Readylift 2" Level with Control Arms Kit today. I'll try to document this as much as I can as I go. I'll be installing it tomorrow, I don't see it necessary to show install steps as that is well documented from Readylift themselves but I'll follow up with a pic to show the angle of the UCA after it is installed.

Here is how it arrived, nicely packaged.

View attachment 5860

One Arm
View attachment 5861

Other Arm
View attachment 5862


These are the miscellaneous parts (bushings, sleeves, grease, cotter pins)
View attachment 5863

The other box with the spacers and nuts and instructions
View attachment 5864



One thing to note about the instructions. The ones they sent were not specifically for the 2019 but from Gen 4 up. While the procedure is the same, the 2019 instructions available on the Readylift site have specific alignment specs. While I do not know the specs for stock, I will be sure to give these specs to my alignment shop on Monday.....just in case.

Just had the same kit installed on my truck. Alignment shop dialed it right in with no info from me. Good luck with the install
 

Horn

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Appreciate the post. Truck looks great. I’ve never done anything like this so it really helps. I really like it when members post pics. Thanks for the info
 

Joeyp

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So my buddy and I tackled the install today. 3 1/2 hours beginning to a completed test drive. Not too shabby. The second side was a breeze as we then had knowledge of exactly what to do. I am not a mechanic by any means but do have a good mechanical aptitude and enjoy working on cars. My buddy is not a "mechanic" per se but he's been rebuilding cars his whole life and knows his stuff and has all the cool toys (tools) ;)

The instructions were good. The only bad part about the install was that no nut spacers were included in the kit. The nut spacers are suppose to go before the castle nut at the upper control arm ball joint. Fortunately my buddy had some good, thick washers that we double stacked so that we were able to complete the install. The reason for the spacer is so that the cotter pin lines up with the hole in the screw on the ball joint. So be sure to check your contents before you install.

We did have to use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the stock upper control arm. We tried pounding the heck out of it but it just wouldn't release. Since we were replacing the arms, damaging a seal was not an issue but if you are just adding a spacer, be careful, we did booger up the old seals.

The only other thing that was an issue and will be remedied Monday during my alignment is that we could not torque the lower strut to the lower control arm to the specified 150lbs. Since we did not have a lift, getting leverage under the truck to get to 150lbs was near impossible. I know they are close, probably 140 but I'll ask the guy at the shop to take a torque wrench to them when it is up on the lift for the alignment.


Here is a completed / after picture.

View attachment 5902



I did not take a before picture today but just for comparison, this is a pic I took after I had it ceramic coated. Yes, my truck needs a wash. ;)

View attachment 5903



And just for the heck of it, a picture of my truck's front end compared to a 4th gen that is stock.

View attachment 5906



I mentioned that I would take a picture of the angle of the ball joint, here it is.

View attachment 5907


As for ride, no difference really. If you've ever leveled your truck, you know how bumps feel like they are more under the truck after the level rather than in front of the truck, under is preferred IMO.

Measurements after than install is 39" from the ground to the top of the wheel well opening up front and 40" at the back so I still have a 1" rake. For my needs that worked out perfect as I do tow a 3500lb. boat and some gear in the bed of the truck.

Alignment Monday and then new Rims and Tires on Tuesday. Tires pictured are 275/65R18 (32.1" tall x 10.8" wide x 7" sidewall). I stayed conservative and am getting 275/65R20 tires (34.1" tall x 10.8" wide x 7" sidewall). I could probably pull off 35's since this is an Off Road Package truck but I think 35's would make it look stuffed. Width, I wanted to remain near factory just to keep the type of ride I was use to with my last truck and this truck.

Not sure if this will help anyone but it was worth posting if it does.
How much was the ceramic coating?
 

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