Re: Installing Full Stereo w/ Sound Deadening - Pandemic Project

[Nickv1214]

6x9 Kicker KS Series Speakers ...Front/Rear
Kicker ZXS Sound Processor
(2)12” Kicker Comp Vx Subs
Fox Acoustic UnderSeat Vented Sub Box
1800/1 Kicker Mono Amp/Bass Controller
360 watt 4 Channel Kicker Amp

One of the first upgrades I did right when I got the truck worth every penny .

 

[sparkygreen]

Did you make it any further on your project?
Also, I see you left your window up but it seems like most pics I see of this process they have the window down. Is there a reason to do one over the other?

Here is an album with all the other pics I took. The further I got into it, the less pics I took, but ultimately it all turned out as expected and everything worked great.

https://imgur.com/a/F45B0sG

Regarding the windows, if you are just changing the speakers it won't make a difference. You need to disconnect the window and raise it up out of the way to get to the inner door skins for sound deadening. You can see in my photos some of the inner door skin before and after applying the sound deadening.

You can also see in some of the photos the MDF board I added is where the amps ended up getting mounted. Ran the signal down the driver's side and the main power down the passenger side. Both fit into the factory wire tracks in the front and rear door sills.


I started out with the small sealed box, which was originally installed in my 2014 Ram. In the old truck it fit perfectly between the center console and rear seat. In the new truck, not so much.

I stumbled into a deal over the weekend for a W7 specific vented box that is bigger, but fits a little better and allows the rear seat to fold down.

Long term, I will probably end up going with something built to go under the rear seats, but for now this is working for me.

Let me know if anyone has any questions.

Thanks!

 

[LaxDfns15]

How hard is it to pull everything out of the back seat to get to the floor so you can deaden the cabin? Any trouble reinstalling the carpet?

 

[sparkygreen]

I thought it was all pretty easy. There are PDF's on here if you search showing rear seat removal steps, I used that as a guide. Just search rear seat removal, if you cant find them let me know.

You need an E12 reverse torx socket for the front bolts and 18mm for the rear bolts. T50 for seatbelt bolts. Smaller torx (forgot what size) for the floor storage bin lids.

Once the rear seats and the trim are out you can remove the storage bin lids in the floor and that lets you roll the carpet back enough to get pretty far with the sound deadening. All the way to the back of the front seats really. The primary thing holding the carpet down is the trim and the storage bin lids. So when all that is out the carpet can be flipped up out of the way, then when done it will fall back into place where it goes.

One tip I learned last time that paid off well this time was to re-install all the bolts once the seats were out and cut all your sound deadening to give you plenty of room around the bolts. In my old truck I covered everything and tried to cut out for bolt holes after, it was a mess.

You can see in the photos all the bolts are installed and I cut good size squares around them to leave room and prevent any of the sticky stuff getting into the bolt hole openings.

Good luck!

 

[LaxDfns15]

I thought it was all pretty easy. There are PDF's on here if you search showing rear seat removal steps, I used that as a guide. Just search rear seat removal, if you cant find them let me know.

You need an E12 reverse torx socket for the front bolts and 18mm for the rear bolts. T50 for seatbelt bolts. Smaller torx (forgot what size) for the floor storage bin lids.

Once the rear seats and the trim are out you can remove the storage bin lids in the floor and that lets you roll the carpet back enough to get pretty far with the sound deadening. All the way to the back of the front seats really. The primary thing holding the carpet down is the trim and the storage bin lids. So when all that is out the carpet can be flipped up out of the way, then when done it will fall back into place where it goes.

One tip I learned last time that paid off well this time was to re-install all the bolts once the seats were out and cut all your sound deadening to give you plenty of room around the bolts. In my old truck I covered everything and tried to cut out for bolt holes after, it was a mess.

You can see in the photos all the bolts are installed and I cut good size squares around them to leave room and prevent any of the sticky stuff getting into the bolt hole openings.

Good luck!

Yeah I've done the "try to cut holes for the bolts after you lay it down" method before, and it was a nightmare. Never again.

 

[EugeneYYZ]

Yeah I've done the "try to cut holes for the bolts after you lay it down" method before, and it was a nightmare. Never again.

Just put marks and use nail to poke the holes through

 

[EugeneYYZ]

@sparkygreen thank you a LOT , you push me to make soundproofing in my truck so i did mine

 

[EugeneYYZ]

So what i did , vibration layer , closed cell foam 10 mm on top , crazy sandwich . Carpet . StP its analog of Dynamat made in Russia , price in Russian Federation 10$ per box , here in Canada 230$ per box For the doors , vibration layer , closed cell on top , and sound wave resistance( open Cell 15mm ~ 5/8 ") on the door panel plus HERTZ MILLE speakers 4ohm .

 

[Halfpint81]

I’m getting sound deadening installed next month, the people that have it do you notice a difference with just the deadening?