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Radar Detector Hard-wire Install

Oldphart

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I'm currently running my Valentine 1 from the lighter plug in the center Top of the dash. It looks bad with all the wires exposed. Also, the plug is unswitched so I have to turn it on and off manually.

I believe I can remove the panel with the instructions provided in the "installing a factory brake controller" thread. My question is, is it necessary to run a wire to the fuse-box or can I just tap into one behind the panel without messing up?

Thanks again in advance....I've only had my 2021 Longhorn 2 weeks and appreciate this forum. Hopefully, one day I will be able to contribute something instead of asking questions.
 
Also as an FYI, the 12V power outlet on the dash can be set up for constant power or for ACC power by shifting a fuse located behind the panel under the steering wheel.
 
I would recommend running down to the fuse box and some good threads on how to do this. Highly recommend hearing from.....paging @securityguy !!
 
I would recommend running down to the fuse box and some good threads on how to do this. Highly recommend hearing from.....paging @securityguy !!
I think that most folks know how I feel about these mirror harnesses...NOT A FAN! If anyone does need help on how to do this right, feel free to PM me and I will happily walk you through the entire installation as I have done several members of this forum. It will take about 15 minutes to go straight to the fuse panel :)
 
I’ve upgraded from my V1 in March to a Uniden R7, but I am still using the V1’s savvy connector which plugs into the ODBC port and works fine with the R7 (and most other detectors). Powers on and off with the truck.

Ran the cable through the A-pillar and up on the headliner on the edge by the windshield all the way to the rearview mirror housing. Pretty easy to do.

1618718091986.jpegE5828C6A-6BD0-4E72-BE89-316C44A1DF92.jpeg
 
I’ve upgraded from my V1 in March to a Uniden R7, but I am still using the V1’s savvy connector which plugs into the ODBC port and works fine with the R7 (and most other detectors). Powers on and off with the truck.

Ran the cable through the A-pillar and up on the headliner on the edge by the windshield all the way to the rearview mirror housing. Pretty easy to do.

View attachment 90150View attachment 90149
How do you like the R7?
Heard it's a very solid detector.
I use the MAX 360C...
These Unidens are cheaper and better from what I hear
 
How do you like the R7?
Heard it's a very solid detector.
I use the MAX 360C...
These Unidens are cheaper and better from what I hear
Rock solid, specially with the newest 1.35 update which enables auto-lockouts. Also, it’s super quiet BSM-wise. I’ve prob have gotten two, maybe three falses in the last 30 days or so.

Picked it up on Amazon for $374. Just checked, and now it is going for $430, but prices fluctuate all the time, so you have to time it just right and pull the trigger when it gets <$400.
 
The only detector that can even compete with the R7 now is the Escort Redline at $750. I loved my R7 since day one and was one of the first to purchase once it was introduced. But, after the 1.35 update...I really LOVE my R7 with the new gps lockout and excellent BSM protection as @Neurobit stated above. The Max and Max 360c can't even come close.
 
I’ve upgraded from my V1 in March to a Uniden R7, but I am still using the V1’s savvy connector which plugs into the ODBC port and works fine with the R7 (and most other detectors). Powers on and off with the truck.
You could really clean up that mess under the dash by simply using a few fuse taps and going straight into the fuse panel my friend.
 
You could really clean up that mess under the dash by simply using a few fuse taps and going straight into the fuse panel my friend.
LOL. I know. It’s much cleaner already. That‘s an old photo that had the V1 BT module attached to it. Now it’s much smaller since I don’t need connect my iPhone to it for the lockouts.
 
I got a fuse tap running from my R7 with blend mount to the fusebox under the steering wheel. In all honesty, it’s easier than trying to tap a wire behind the mirror.
The door seal makes running the wire super easy in these 5th gens
 
In the 2021 Ram 1500 manual on page 79 show how to change the 12v power outlet to turn on and off with the ignition. You only move a fuse on the fuse panel.
 
In the 2021 Ram 1500 manual on page 79 show how to change the 12v power outlet to turn on and off with the ignition. You only move a fuse on the fuse panel.

Can you possibly explain this in more detail? Like you're talking to an idiot perhaps. I went to page 79 and either am missing it but most likely seeing it and not having a clue!!!!
 
Can you possibly explain this in more detail? Like you're talking to an idiot perhaps. I went to page 79 and either am missing it but most likely seeing it and not having a clue!!!!
The fuse port on the fuse panel has 3 sockets where the center position is shared and one is left unused. If you install the fuse on one side of the center and right port you get one voltage supply. If you unplug it and move the fuse over to the center and left side you get a different voltage supply. That simple!
 
Talked with securityguy last week. He was very helpful. What I did was to remove the panel and tap into the wires for the existing 12 volt socket. Then moved the fuse to switched power as he described above. east-peasy. Took all of 15 minutes.
 
I tapped the mirror harness. Punk/yellow hot and black ground. Works great. Whats the down side? I used T taps and red spades for connection. Also used factory vord. Btw escort green is ground red is hot. Yellow and black not used.
 

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