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19RAMSRU

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Oct 22, 2018
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Stillwater mn
Hey guys I'd like to start off by saying I got the truck on Halloween. October 31 of 2018.

I have the off road package. Axle lock. Towing package 3.9x gearing.

I live in Minnesota. So the roads are constantly salty and sandy during the winter and spring months.

I have roughly 10,000 miles on it so far.

I took one trip to Wyoming towing my 30 foot snowmobile trailer. Handle decent. Needs helper springs and trailer sway controller.

Anyway. I was cleaning my truck and notice a lot of scratches and black tar bits on the paint.

Fortunately from the looks of it the clear was scratched and not the actual paint?
IMG_20190323_153206.jpg
IMG_20190323_135307.jpg IMG_20190323_135117.jpg IMG_20190323_135104.jpg
How do you get the tar bits off? It is all over my truck. Both sides
IMG_20190323_135239.jpg

Also rear driver door has a crease in it? Who else has that? The passenger side does not. I noticed it when I was driving in my side mirror. 2013410255.png IMG_20190323_153149.jpg


Rust on front bumper
IMG_20190323_135154.jpg
 

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RAMRhode

Active Member
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Jan 17, 2019
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Knit picking? No. Yeah quality today with paint and “chrome” is NOT the same as before, unfortunately.
For the tar....a small amount of turpentine or mineral spirits on a microfiber cloth and gently rub the tar chips out. And before I am highly critiqued by other members here, Yes it works and YES it DOES NOT harm finish. Many detailers use this.
The so called chrome....the rust needs to be removed and then filled. Rustoleum makes a chrome type paint. I would use an artist’s script liner brush to apply to the area. Or have this done by a body shop specialist.
The scratches can be buffed out. Or have this done by an auto detailer. It looks like they are snow brush marks. I use a telescoping foam brush to avoid these marks.
The panel crease most likely happened at the sheet metal stamping factory. Maybe a dull die in the machine. I would start with dealer, as you are still under warranty and they may just replace the offending panel. There may be other options such as dentless removal.
For prevention of future cosmetic issues....Have the truck paint corrected by a auto detailer that specializes in ceramic coating and PPF. Have the front bumper, rocker panels, and rear fender flares wrapped in film. XPEL is a very good brand. This will prevent the road debri from chipping the finishes. Have the truck ceramic coated. This will prevent future scratching, swirls, etc. Preparation of the paint is paramount to a successful result in PPF and coating so best to be done by a professional. The ceramic coating will last for 3-10 years depending on package. PPF is guaranteed for 10 years. It can be expensive, however, it is a very good investment and will increase your resale or trade-in significantly.
Also, install mudguards to help with rocker panel and fender flare chips from road debri. I have weather tech and they seem to be very good for this.
 
Last edited:

Ram1984

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I use a product called Tarminator made by Stoner products,,,it works very well. however I would only use it before a wax job, since it will strip all waxes off. As for the door that is unacceptable. Never should have passed quality inspection looking that way
 

392DCGC

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Joined
Aug 1, 2018
Messages
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Knit picking? No. Yeah quality today with paint and “chrome” is NOT the same as before, unfortunately.
For the tar....a small amount of turpentine or mineral spirits on a microfiber cloth and gently rub the tar chips out. And before I am highly critiqued by other members here, Yes it works and YES it DOES NOT harm finish. Many detailers use this.
The so called chrome....the rust needs to be removed and then filled. Rustoleum makes a chrome type paint. I would use an artist’s script liner brush to apply to the area. Or have this done by a body shop specialist.
The scratches can be buffed out. Or have this done by an auto detailer. It looks like they are snow brush marks. I use a telescoping foam brush to avoid these marks.
The panel crease most likely happened at the sheet metal stamping factory. Maybe a dull die in the machine. I would start with dealer, as you are still under warranty and they may just replace the offending panel. There may be other options such as dentless removal.
For prevention of future cosmetic issues....Have the truck paint corrected by a auto detailer that specializes in ceramic coating and PPF. Have the front bumper, rocker panels, and rear fender flares wrapped in film. XPEL is a very good brand. This will prevent the road debri from chipping the finishes. Have the truck ceramic coated. This will prevent future scratching, swirls, etc. Preparation of the paint is paramount to a successful result in PPF and coating so best to be done by a professional. The ceramic coating will last for 3-10 years depending on package. PPF is guaranteed for 10 years. It can be expensive, however, it is a very good investment and will increase your resale or trade-in significantly.
Also, install mudguards to help with rocker panel and fender flare chips from road debri. I have weather tech and they seem to be very good for this.
You will never get your money back from a ceramic coating or PPF. Maybe some back on a private sale to a particular buyer, but most people don't care. Dealers certainly don't.

Paint will not scratch unless something rubs it or you wash it improperly - and yes, your foam snow removal tool will microscratch the paint if there is any dirt underneath the snow when you drag it across the paint. Rock chips are practically unavoidable... I could see the benefit of PPF there, but a bottle of touch up does wonders and people will never know unless they look closely in the exact spot.

Don't blow tons of money on unnecessary crap and just wash the truck (never at a car wash, unless it's the self-serve spray type) and don't ever touch the paint with anything unless you're hand washing it... that's my advice.
 

19RAMSRU

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
29
Reaction score
7
Location
Stillwater mn
Knit picking? No. Yeah quality today with paint and “chrome” is NOT the same as before, unfortunately.
For the tar....a small amount of turpentine or mineral spirits on a microfiber cloth and gently rub the tar chips out. And before I am highly critiqued by other members here, Yes it works and YES it DOES NOT harm finish. Many detailers use this.
The so called chrome....the rust needs to be removed and then filled. Rustoleum makes a chrome type paint. I would use an artist’s script liner brush to apply to the area. Or have this done by a body shop specialist.
The scratches can be buffed out. Or have this done by an auto detailer. It looks like they are snow brush marks. I use a telescoping foam brush to avoid these marks.
The panel crease most likely happened at the sheet metal stamping factory. Maybe a dull die in the machine. I would start with dealer, as you are still under warranty and they may just replace the offending panel. There may be other options such as dentless removal.
For prevention of future cosmetic issues....Have the truck paint corrected by a auto detailer that specializes in ceramic coating and PPF. Have the front bumper, rocker panels, and rear fender flares wrapped in film. XPEL is a very good brand. This will prevent the road debri from chipping the finishes. Have the truck ceramic coated. This will prevent future scratching, swirls, etc. Preparation of the paint is paramount to a successful result in PPF and coating so best to be done by a professional. The ceramic coating will last for 3-10 years depending on package. PPF is guaranteed for 10 years. It can be expensive, however, it is a very good investment and will increase your resale or trade-in significantly.
Also, install mudguards to help with rocker panel and fender flare chips from road debri. I have weather tech and they seem to be very good for this.

I was able to use Wd40 to get them all off. Then scrubbed with hot water and soap twice and then waxed. Tar is gone.

I do have mud flaps on. And have had them on since a week after I got the truck.

I haven't used a snow brush to get the snow off of the body. Not sure how they all came about. Will try waxing and buffing to get them out.

Thanks for the film tips I was looking at getting it done.. Looks like I should have before I took delivery.

Thank you for such a detailed response.
 

19RAMSRU

Active Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
29
Reaction score
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Location
Stillwater mn
You will never get your money back from a ceramic coating or PPF. Maybe some back on a private sale to a particular buyer, but most people don't care. Dealers certainly don't.

Paint will not scratch unless something rubs it or you wash it improperly - and yes, your foam snow removal tool will microscratch the paint if there is any dirt underneath the snow when you drag it across the paint. Rock chips are practically unavoidable... I could see the benefit of PPF there, but a bottle of touch up does wonders and people will never know unless they look closely in the exact spot.

Don't blow tons of money on unnecessary crap and just wash the truck (never at a car wash, unless it's the self-serve spray type) and don't ever touch the paint with anything unless you're hand washing it... that's my advice.

I pressure wash the truck at home or use a touch less car wash system at my local fleet farm so no brushes. Etc create the mirco scratches.

Will probably be getting some flares soon.
 

silver64

Ram Guru
Joined
Mar 5, 2019
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I learned something a fews years ago that has stuck with me. "Most" new cars have a much thinner clear coat than in the past. I had a car that was getting a lot of chips on the front from rock strikes chipping the paint. When I took it into the body shop they fixed all the chips and coated the front end (hood grill, fascia, bumper & fenders) with a really think coat of clear coat and it worked like a champ. It never got those chips again and looked much better than the original thinner stock paint job. Its amazing how just spraying over the existing paint with a thicker clear coat made such a big difference.
 

swarggs

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Nov 20, 2018
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Location
Pennsylvania
I haven't used a snow brush to get the snow off of the body. Not sure how they all came about. Will try waxing and buffing to get them out.

Just brushing up against a dusty vehicle can cause these light scratches. I'd guess that one by the bed probably happened by just reaching over the side into the bed.

Years ago I visited a dealership that was located right across the street from a cement plant. Cement dust is nasty and sticks to everything, so there was a layer of this stuff on every car, even in the showroom. I watched a salesman walk buy a brand new, black charger SRT8 and write the advertised price (in very large text) in the dust on the hood.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
 

alangsam

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I learned something a fews years ago that has stuck with me. "Most" new cars have a much thinner clear coat than in the past. I had a car that was getting a lot of chips on the front from rock strikes chipping the paint. When I took it into the body shop they fixed all the chips and coated the front end (hood grill, fascia, bumper & fenders) with a really think coat of clear coat and it worked like a champ. It never got those chips again and looked much better than the original thinner stock paint job. Its amazing how just spraying over the existing paint with a thicker clear coat made such a big difference.

I would agree my bmw’s have a very thick clear coat of a special German clear coat and the bumpers look new after 5 years here in Florida and 80k miles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

79 300

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Nov 4, 2018
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Just brushing up against a dusty vehicle can cause these light scratches. I'd guess that one by the bed probably happened by just reaching over the side into the bed.

Years ago I visited a dealership that was located right across the street from a cement plant. Cement dust is nasty and sticks to everything, so there was a layer of this stuff on every car, even in the showroom. I watched a salesman walk buy a brand new, black charger SRT8 and write the advertised price (in very large text) in the dust on the hood.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
Sounds like you were in Bath PA.
 

Yedi

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Oct 28, 2018
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First off, I work in auto body. Been doing it for over 15 years. Lots of certifications, etc...I work at a small GMC dealership and am a one man body shop. (Estimates, body work and painting)

I'm very picky, and feel I'm pretty good at what I do.

When I got my RAM I told the samesman how picky I was and what I do. They prepped the truck accordingly.

After having it home a few weeks, and looking at it in different lights, and angles I found a couple "dents" from stamping the panels.

Even if I noticed this at delivery I wouldn't have wanted it fixed. Maybe some kind of a credit if anything.

Manufacturers aren't going to replace an entire panel for small imperfections that can be repaired (body filler and paint)

People come in bitching about the smallest speck not having a clue how involved it is to fix it.. Painting and detrimming an entire panel and often having to blend the adjacent panel for proper color match.

Quality of chrome right now is an absolute joke. Metal and plastic. One of the main reasons I got a Rebel all black. Chrome gets dented it has to be replaced. Painted stuff can be repaired.

Sorry to rant, I see this stuff every day, outs a different perspective on this kind of quality concerns.
 

19RAMSRU

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Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Messages
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Location
Stillwater mn
More quality concerns.
Went to put in my rear liner today and....

Missing passenger side rear storage compartment bolts. IMG_20190325_142052.jpg

Driver side has bolts

IMG_20190325_142111.jpg
 

thabiiighomie

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Joined
May 22, 2019
Messages
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Location
Cincinnati, OH
Knit picking? No. Yeah quality today with paint and “chrome” is NOT the same as before, unfortunately.
For the tar....a small amount of turpentine or mineral spirits on a microfiber cloth and gently rub the tar chips out. And before I am highly critiqued by other members here, Yes it works and YES it DOES NOT harm finish. Many detailers use this.
The so called chrome....the rust needs to be removed and then filled. Rustoleum makes a chrome type paint. I would use an artist’s script liner brush to apply to the area. Or have this done by a body shop specialist.
The scratches can be buffed out. Or have this done by an auto detailer. It looks like they are snow brush marks. I use a telescoping foam brush to avoid these marks.
The panel crease most likely happened at the sheet metal stamping factory. Maybe a dull die in the machine. I would start with dealer, as you are still under warranty and they may just replace the offending panel. There may be other options such as dentless removal.
For prevention of future cosmetic issues....Have the truck paint corrected by a auto detailer that specializes in ceramic coating and PPF. Have the front bumper, rocker panels, and rear fender flares wrapped in film. XPEL is a very good brand. This will prevent the road debri from chipping the finishes. Have the truck ceramic coated. This will prevent future scratching, swirls, etc. Preparation of the paint is paramount to a successful result in PPF and coating so best to be done by a professional. The ceramic coating will last for 3-10 years depending on package. PPF is guaranteed for 10 years. It can be expensive, however, it is a very good investment and will increase your resale or trade-in significantly.
Also, install mudguards to help with rocker panel and fender flare chips from road debri. I have weather tech and they seem to be very good for this.
Smart with the foam brush. I didn’t think of that. This will be my first winter with a vehicle that doesn’t fit in the garage (and thus, gets snowed on/never had the opportunity to melt).

We both have white trucks. If you could do me a favor, take a look at your rear bumper on the surface that faces towards the sky. On mine, the paint is super sparse. Looks blotchy and not evenly white. I considered taking it back to the dealership but I already had paint correction, ceramic coating and PPF applied. I am referring to the portion of the bumper that wraps around on the left and right sides of the vehicle.
 

thabiiighomie

Active Member
Joined
May 22, 2019
Messages
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Location
Cincinnati, OH
Hey guys I'd like to start off by saying I got the truck on Halloween. October 31 of 2018.

I have the off road package. Axle lock. Towing package 3.9x gearing.

I live in Minnesota. So the roads are constantly salty and sandy during the winter and spring months.

I have roughly 10,000 miles on it so far.

I took one trip to Wyoming towing my 30 foot snowmobile trailer. Handle decent. Needs helper springs and trailer sway controller.

Anyway. I was cleaning my truck and notice a lot of scratches and black tar bits on the paint.

Fortunately from the looks of it the clear was scratched and not the actual paint?
View attachment 20039
View attachment 20040 View attachment 20042 View attachment 20044
How do you get the tar bits off? It is all over my truck. Both sides
View attachment 20038

Also rear driver door has a crease in it? Who else has that? The passenger side does not. I noticed it when I was driving in my side mirror. View attachment 20037 View attachment 20045


Rust on front bumper
View attachment 20036
My white truck had about 100 of those tiny little black specs all over its exterior. I used my finger nail and a quick detailer spray with a fine MF towel. They are gone now.
 

Cas5481

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Nov 9, 2018
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I am very picky about my vehicles, considering it cost $65,000 you would think it would be a higher quality than what we are getting. The front of my truck has rock chips everywhere, and owning an all black truck really shows everything. Even when I dry it with a micro fiber towel I get scratches, the paint on this 19 limited sucks compared to the 16 sport and the 13 mega cab I used to own. The interior so far is great, but I’m disappointed with how the exterior is holding up.
 

thabiiighomie

Active Member
Joined
May 22, 2019
Messages
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Location
Cincinnati, OH
I am very picky about my vehicles, considering it cost $65,000 you would think it would be a higher quality than what we are getting. The front of my truck has rock chips everywhere, and owning an all black truck really shows everything. Even when I dry it with a micro fiber towel I get scratches, the paint on this 19 limited sucks compared to the 16 sport and the 13 mega cab I used to own. The interior so far is great, but I’m disappointed with how the exterior is holding up.
Mine was about $60,000 and I ended up spending an additional $5,500 to protect the exterior. It is an assumed cost for me these days when I purchase a new vehicle.
 

19RAMSRU

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Oct 22, 2018
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Location
Stillwater mn
Update.
Dealer is having pbr guy come look at the pressed door.
Bolts on order..(they couldn't take from a truck on the lot??)
Front bumper on order.
New brakes on order
Didn't have a thing for mpg or unconnect freezing all the time.
Ac is working--finally
 

MValdez

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Oct 30, 2018
Messages
391
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Location
North Wales, Pa
First off, I work in auto body. Been doing it for over 15 years. Lots of certifications, etc...I work at a small GMC dealership and am a one man body shop. (Estimates, body work and painting)

I'm very picky, and feel I'm pretty good at what I do.

When I got my RAM I told the samesman how picky I was and what I do. They prepped the truck accordingly.

After having it home a few weeks, and looking at it in different lights, and angles I found a couple "dents" from stamping the panels.

Even if I noticed this at delivery I wouldn't have wanted it fixed. Maybe some kind of a credit if anything.

Manufacturers aren't going to replace an entire panel for small imperfections that can be repaired (body filler and paint)

People come in bitching about the smallest speck not having a clue how involved it is to fix it.. Painting and detrimming an entire panel and often having to blend the adjacent panel for proper color match.

Quality of chrome right now is an absolute joke. Metal and plastic. One of the main reasons I got a Rebel all black. Chrome gets dented it has to be replaced. Painted stuff can be repaired.

Sorry to rant, I see this stuff every day, outs a different perspective on this kind of quality concerns.
Yedi- Can I ask you for your opinion on which DA orbital polisher I should purchase. I have been on the fence now for about 3 weeks and am looking to buy a quality 5-6" polisher. I am currently leaning towards either the Rupes LHR 21 Mark III or the LHR 15 Mark III. Will a 21mm long throw polisher really make it difficult to get the round edges of the truck?
 

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