I'd like to see a Preventive Maintenance Sticky put up where folks from the community could share their care, use and preventive maintenance tips. I'd be interested in hearing what works best to keep your vehicle in great functioning condition.
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Preventive Maintenance Tips
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Rambunktious
Well-Known Member
I think this is a great idea. Having a permanent place to find all the tips and tricks to keep my new Ram looking and running great would be awesome. Thanks for suggesting it.
LaxDfns15
Ram Guru
The best thing you can do to keep your truck running well is listen to it. Listen when you start it up, listen while it's running, listen while it's idling. Learn what your truck sounds like, and when you hear something different don't just blow it off.
Other than that it's regular oil changes, tire rotations, and inspections during those 2 actions. I personally rotate my tires every 5k, and when I do I check the brakes, rotors, ball joints, suspension components while I'm at it. Oil change every 10k (so tire rotation and inspection too), and since the hood is open I check the air filter, hoses, fluids, etc in the engine bay.
Other than that it's regular oil changes, tire rotations, and inspections during those 2 actions. I personally rotate my tires every 5k, and when I do I check the brakes, rotors, ball joints, suspension components while I'm at it. Oil change every 10k (so tire rotation and inspection too), and since the hood is open I check the air filter, hoses, fluids, etc in the engine bay.
I have done this over the years, especially when I have owned a diesel truck.
When having routine oil change, tire rotation, I would also insist on having the computer codes dumped and analyzed for abnormalities or notices. I have caught looming issues this way, which has saved me much grief. I hunt in very remote areas and any type of remote breakdown is expensive. It can ruin a hunt and blow a week minimum. Dealerships sometimes can resist wanting to do this until you explain why. I tell them do not leave me stranded In remote locations with high recovery costs, remote dealership repairs, and a ruined vacation. The current dealership charges me $40 for this. Everything is computer orientated and dependent on electronics. Why not routinely monitor that? Plus it can promote honesty in warranty work.
Just something to consider.
When having routine oil change, tire rotation, I would also insist on having the computer codes dumped and analyzed for abnormalities or notices. I have caught looming issues this way, which has saved me much grief. I hunt in very remote areas and any type of remote breakdown is expensive. It can ruin a hunt and blow a week minimum. Dealerships sometimes can resist wanting to do this until you explain why. I tell them do not leave me stranded In remote locations with high recovery costs, remote dealership repairs, and a ruined vacation. The current dealership charges me $40 for this. Everything is computer orientated and dependent on electronics. Why not routinely monitor that? Plus it can promote honesty in warranty work.
Just something to consider.
LakesAZ
Well-Known Member
That is a great idea Myke , I'm going to ask my dealer to do the same next time I have service done. Thanks!
Having had 3 Rams I always remove each wheel, sand the inside of the wheel hub and the outside of the hub on the truck. I then use never seeze and coat both surfaces. If you ever need to remove a wheel without doing this you will end up banging the inside of the wheel to get it loose. One guy who had a fat on the side of the road had to lousin the lug nuts then lower the jack and rock the truck side ways to get the wheel to poop off the hub.
define early - 3000 miles too early?
mikeru82
Legendary member
Not to be confrontational, but what's your reason for saying this? Modern engines don't require the same break-in period that engines used to require. I change mine to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic oil at right around 1000 miles. This is my third Ram, and I've done this on all three. No issues with any of the them.
The engine still requires a break in. Internal components like the piston rings still have to seat. I seen fuel milage improvements up until 6000 miles and thats not because it was learning my driving habits... at very least its a waste of money.
Dosent sound like you keep them very long if this is your 3rd.
Good info Myke, thanks for posting.
What part of the Country do you live in Mr. G? Is there any downside to this in a dry dusty climate as opposed to a snowy northern climate?
mikeru82
Legendary member
I keep them until the b2b warranty expires. 30 to 36 thousand miles should be long enough to know if there is an engine problem or not. If you'll re-read what I said you'll see that I never actually said they don't require a break-in period. Just that they don't require the same break-in period as new engines used to require. Are you claiming they use break-in oil in these engines? Because I've seen nothing that would make me think that they are. And if it's "normal" oil there would be no harm in replacing it. Many cars come with synthetic oil from the factory. In researching this on oil related web sites, as well as various other forums, I've come to the conclusion that changing the oil as early as I do isn't going to cause any problems. Do you have any information or sources you could share that might confirm what you're saying? I'd like to know if I'm doing any harm by following this practice. I started seeing similar fuel mileage improvements as you at around 4k miles. I don't see it as a waste of money because I'd rather run a known high quality full synthetic in my engines than the factory fill. I can live with it if the only harm I'm causing is to my wallet.
Granite2WD
Well-Known Member
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Just don't listen for the MDS kicking in. That might drive you crazy!
Granite2WD
Well-Known Member
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I disagree. Even if FCA used an engine break-in oil which I don't think they use anymore, I think the people who are changing their oil early are almost all using high-quality oils that are fine for breaking in an engine.
I think FCA is more likely to use an oil that helps sell more vehicles by helping mpg on paper (similar to low rolling resistance tires) and not primarily concerned with the engine's long term health after the powertrain warranty expires. Here's an example of a mpg-focussed FCA oil: https://www.mopar.com/en-us/care/dy...44371E2-4F8F-4060-87D0-C97BC69E113D&tocID=253
I don't think there is any harm in changing your oil early. I also think the benefit is mostly the peace of mind that you are running a good oil at the right level. I think regular oil and filter changes, regardless of the brand, will take care of the engine for most people for longer than they will own the truck.
brian42
Ram Guru
- Use Top Tier gas and don't go below 1/4 tank. I'm not intimately familiar with this truck but my last one had an external fuel pump that relied on the static head of the fuel in the tank for suction pressure. The higher the tank level, the more suction pressure for my fuel pump. Also, the tank level sending unit (again, in my last truck) was lubricated by the fuel in the tank. Getting below 1/4 tank started to uncover the sending unit which was not an easy or cheap item to replace.
- I put some silicone spray on the CV joint boots every oil change. I had an old front wheel drive Mazda that had a CV boot split. The shop told me that the joint was just fine but that it would cost almost as much to replace the boot as it was to buy a new axle.
- I put some silicone spray on the CV joint boots every oil change. I had an old front wheel drive Mazda that had a CV boot split. The shop told me that the joint was just fine but that it would cost almost as much to replace the boot as it was to buy a new axle.
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User_3336
Guest
I changed mine at 500. PUP is good stuff.
QUOTE="mikeru82, post: 338415, member: 24041"]
Not to be confrontational, but what's your reason for saying this? Modern engines don't require the same break-in period that engines used to require. I change mine to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic oil at right around 1000 miles. This is my third Ram, and I've done this on all three. No issues with any of the them.
[/QUOTE]
QUOTE="mikeru82, post: 338415, member: 24041"]
Not to be confrontational, but what's your reason for saying this? Modern engines don't require the same break-in period that engines used to require. I change mine to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic oil at right around 1000 miles. This is my third Ram, and I've done this on all three. No issues with any of the them.
[/QUOTE]
Jako
Spends too much time on here
This is on page 293 of the owner's manual. Salesman was unaware of it's existence and I had a hard time finding the information. I have to question how important FCA feels the break in period is as I feel it would be in a more visible location. I'm aware of break in periods based on previous new ownership experience. Seems to be a controversial topic these days. I followed the break in as per the manual and all is good with mpg and oil consumption.
ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided
LakesAZ
Well-Known Member
I hadn’t thought of changing my oil early, but based on this conversation I think I will now.
