boogerhook
Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2024
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
- 4
This started with my battery abruptly dying at a friends house.
I jumped my truck, and got a CEL and it wouldn't shift out of first gear.
I decided to park it, borrow a car and go get another battery.
With a new battery everything was fine, with a lingering CEL but I didn't care as I figured it was relative to the battery and was putting the truck under the knife in a day or 2 for the big 100k service, as I was at 110k.
During the spark plug replacement, removal of the upper intake is necessary. Half way through, having disconnected a few sensors at the TB and in that area, I realized I'd have to disconnect the entire harness at the large, lever lock connectors at the driver side engine bay computer. I disconnected the battery negative prior to continuing.
I replaced all six plugs, verified the o ring intake seals were intact, and reinstalled everything.
With everything hooked back up and sensors plugged in, I reconnected the negative battery wire. It sparked and popped louder than I remember ever seeing one before, but not so ridiculous that I know it was unreasonable. It was audible, and visible in daylight in the shade of the hood.
It started and idled fine. Had the nice feeling of a big job being accomplished and felt good about it hearing a strong idle. Went to drive it, had auto start stop, stability control and electronic throttle lights on. Sounded fine, but the power was maybe 10% of what's typically expected. I drove enough to see if it would shift to second, as it would not do after my battery died. It did successfully shift, but again with severely reduced power.
Hooked up my scanner, and after clearing 13 random codes for a strong baseline, stuck with P0108 (MAP sensor high output, P0123 (Pedal Position circuit A high input), and P0222 (Pedal position circuit B low input.)
With a pinout chart, or flow chart for diag I could figure this out over a long enough timeline. I couldn't find anything online.
But, with some wise guidance on whether or not I should just replace the MAP and pedal position sensors as a start or not, I'd appreciate it.
Very annoyed to have such random problems having been so careful with connectors and reinstallation.
I jumped my truck, and got a CEL and it wouldn't shift out of first gear.
I decided to park it, borrow a car and go get another battery.
With a new battery everything was fine, with a lingering CEL but I didn't care as I figured it was relative to the battery and was putting the truck under the knife in a day or 2 for the big 100k service, as I was at 110k.
During the spark plug replacement, removal of the upper intake is necessary. Half way through, having disconnected a few sensors at the TB and in that area, I realized I'd have to disconnect the entire harness at the large, lever lock connectors at the driver side engine bay computer. I disconnected the battery negative prior to continuing.
I replaced all six plugs, verified the o ring intake seals were intact, and reinstalled everything.
With everything hooked back up and sensors plugged in, I reconnected the negative battery wire. It sparked and popped louder than I remember ever seeing one before, but not so ridiculous that I know it was unreasonable. It was audible, and visible in daylight in the shade of the hood.
It started and idled fine. Had the nice feeling of a big job being accomplished and felt good about it hearing a strong idle. Went to drive it, had auto start stop, stability control and electronic throttle lights on. Sounded fine, but the power was maybe 10% of what's typically expected. I drove enough to see if it would shift to second, as it would not do after my battery died. It did successfully shift, but again with severely reduced power.
Hooked up my scanner, and after clearing 13 random codes for a strong baseline, stuck with P0108 (MAP sensor high output, P0123 (Pedal Position circuit A high input), and P0222 (Pedal position circuit B low input.)
With a pinout chart, or flow chart for diag I could figure this out over a long enough timeline. I couldn't find anything online.
But, with some wise guidance on whether or not I should just replace the MAP and pedal position sensors as a start or not, I'd appreciate it.
Very annoyed to have such random problems having been so careful with connectors and reinstallation.
