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Out of warranty with leaking rear window on 2020 limited

Not from the threads I have seen here.
LED not working are a factory defect and people get those warranty claims denied all the time it seems.
I'm "fishing" for you to back up your comment about 3/36 warranty not covering a LED headlamp. I posted a link to help you prove yourself. Sometimes we all need a little help....
 
I'm "fishing" for you to back up your comment about 3/36 warranty not covering a LED headlamp. I posted a link to help you prove yourself. Sometimes we all need a little help....


1679267261521.png
 


View attachment 154903
Now find me one where the factory 3/36 warranty didn't cover the LED lights. These reference extended warranty or out of warranty.
 
I mean I could go through and post every warranty...
This is the cheapest LED I have ever bought at $1 a bulb and even this has a 5 year warranty.
View attachment 154885

Here's a "vintage" amber LED bulb, 5 year also
View attachment 154886

Heres another one
View attachment 154887


And ill save you the math.
Using the bulb 3 hours a day for 5 years is 5475 hours, i'm sure these peoples trucks are nowhere even close to that even on engine time with lights out.

Here is the warranty on the 2 lights I just got from Diode Dynamics. 8 year on these ones.

View attachment 154889
View attachment 154890
And all those warranties are based of an average number of hours per day. So like I said they are based off hours of use, not calendar days.
 
I think however a cracked window frame (or whatever is the cause) seems slightly leaning toward defect rather than say “use”. One doesn’t usually expect MTBF numbers with a window frame of 1-2 years or what not. So that part of the situation sucks.

On the other hand, it’s well known enough that you could get the parts and you know what the repair entails. It’s not so bad. Even getting the interior cleaned up, it’s going to take some time to take apart things so you can put a rag back there behind the sheet metal of the cab and or dry things out. Even scrubbing the “carpeting”. It’s going to be cheaper than buying a whole new car… ( at least for now, until used car prices sky rocket even more).
 
I am having the same issue in my 2020 limited that a number of people in this forum have stated. This truck has the panoramic sunroof. Several months ago, I started to notice an a great deal of condensation forming on the windows after overnight parking and while driving during various weather conditions. I am talking about big water drops that collects enough to run down the windows (after overnight parking). I always felt like air (varying humidity levels in vs out of vehicle) is somehow to causing the condensation to form. The fogging would always would be a challenge to address on warm humid nights while driving. While getting my child out of the truck one day, I noticed that the seat next to the car seat had water droplets. Looking for the source, I noticed the dripping from the top of the sliding window. After this discovery, I thought the window was slightly open never connecting this to the condensation issue. I didn’t pay it much attention until I notice it during a rain event. There I noticed a crack that others have mentioned in the frame and water pouring in. To combat this, I put tape around/over the 3rd light and it still leaks. After doing some further investigation and reading about others’ experiences, I discovered both the headliner and floor are constantly wet. I now have concerns with my 3 year old who has to sit in the backseat being adversely affected by mold and mildew and getting wet during a rain event. For a truck that costs this much, things like this shouldn’t be happening. I also read that this water can make the airbags in that area to not function properly and cause some other electrical problems. This is another concern of mine. I to am also out if the bumper to bumper warranty.

Has Anyone gotten this resolved thru the dealer without being advised that it will not be covered due to expired warranty?
Permatex is about 8 bucks per tube v.s. in the neighborhood of 1600.00 plus for a replacement that will most likely leak again.
 
Permatex is about 8 bucks per tube v.s. in the neighborhood of 1600.00 plus for a replacement that will most likely leak again.

Yeah I agree if it comes down to it, this is what I’d do. Take matters into one’s own hands. :-(
 
So... Perhaps.
Back to the member with a leak and water damage in the back.
He needs to get a "goodwill" repair from his dealer. I would start call customer assistance (866) 726-4636, start a case and go from there.
 
He needs to get a "goodwill" repair from his dealer. I would start call customer assistance (866) 726-4636, start a case and go from there.
If he can get new carpets out of the deal, then yes.
Other vice, would not waste my time. Go straight to advanced Auto and get Permatex.
 
If he can get new carpets out of the deal, then yes.
Other vice, would not waste my time. Go straight to advanced Auto and get Permatex.
Use Lexel caulk. Clear, flexible, can be applied wet, paintable, good for caulking everything.
 
Thank you all for the feedback. I have been researching the “sealing it myself“ approach. My thoughts are to seal the shark antenna, a gap below the the 3rd light just inside the truck frame, and the entire gap on the outside of truck between the glass and frame. Had anyone took it to this extent? I also have the panoramic roof, does any know where the water goes for this? I would assume down the sides to the front and back. I do not want to block flow paths with the sealing of all these items if all are using the same drainage path.

I am not a thermal engineer, but I do know that glass, plastic, and metal all comtracts/expands at different rates depending on temperatures. Does the seal have enough give to accommodate this? Has anyone sealed the entire window frame on the outside without issues?

By the way, I do have the driver side bottom LED that works intermittently. I have a 3rd party high dollar extended warranty with endurance that appeared to be bumper to bumper when I bought it. When I approached them they want to treat it like a headlight bulb you replace when they go out. When I took it to the dealer for this and for the dash leather coming loose at the seams and bubbling (both occurred after factory warranty), endurance would not cover either. For the light, I am looking at EBay and going to find a local upholstery company to address the dash. Dealer wanted $1200 for the lighting housing and and a couple thousand for replacing the dash.
 
Thank you all for the feedback. I have been researching the “sealing it myself“ approach. My thoughts are to seal the shark antenna, a gap below the the 3rd light just inside the truck frame, and the entire gap on the outside of truck between the glass and frame. Had anyone took it to this extent? I also have the panoramic roof, does any know where the water goes for this? I would assume down the sides to the front and back. I do not want to block flow paths with the sealing of all these items if all are using the same drainage path.

I am not a thermal engineer, but I do know that glass, plastic, and metal all comtracts/expands at different rates depending on temperatures. Does the seal have enough give to accommodate this? Has anyone sealed the entire window frame on the outside without issues?

By the way, I do have the driver side bottom LED that works intermittently. I have a 3rd party high dollar extended warranty with endurance that appeared to be bumper to bumper when I bought it. When I approached them they want to treat it like a headlight bulb you replace when they go out. When I took it to the dealer for this and for the dash leather coming loose at the seams and bubbling (both occurred after factory warranty), endurance would not cover either. For the light, I am looking at EBay and going to find a local upholstery company to address the dash. Dealer wanted $1200 for the lighting housing and and a couple thousand for replacing the dash.
There are answers to all your questions on various threads. The sunroof has tubes that run out at various locations, that the areas you question about will not be effected. The sealing, I recommend Lexel caulk, because unlike Permatex some people use, is clear, and extremely flexible. The headlight itself someone said can be had for between 6 and 7 hundred as I recall.
 
I find it pathetic that a $65,000 vehicle won't last more than a couple years! Mine is at the dealership right now for a cracked manifold and cracked back glass frame. After three weeks of being there I got a text from them this morning telling me to come get it. It's not fixed and the extended warranty denied the claim. Time to sell this POS and find something new.
 
I find it pathetic that a $65,000 vehicle won't last more than a couple years! Mine is at the dealership right now for a cracked manifold and cracked back glass frame. After three weeks of being there I got a text from them this morning telling me to come get it. It's not fixed and the extended warranty denied the claim. Time to sell this POS and find something new.
Manifold is covered by 6 year 60k emissions warranty.

Did they say why the glass replacement was denied?
 
Manifold is covered by 6 year 60k emissions warranty.
That would be the powertrain warranty that covers the exhaust manifold. That would be 5 years and 60k miles
 
LED not working from the factory would be a factory defect. If you have 30K Mike's in the truck, it definitely wasn't a factory defect at that point. Working with electronics for most of my career, there is no 100% guaranteed service life for them. You can have one LED that will work for 10 years and another that died in 3. Both made in same factory during same time frame. Voltage fluctuations with the 12v system on vehicles causes issues, and are hard to manage based on factory options and any aftermarket electrical loads added
So would a lifter failing at that same 30,000 mile mark also not be a factory defect and not covere.
 

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