Oil

[BowDown]

In 2 trucks I never heard the HEMI tick so I cant speak to that. I do know that what some mistakenly called the HEMI tick was actually the front pump on the trans but this was gen 3 and 4 trucks, my truck is dead quiet though. As was said earlier, I think the more important thing is to change the oil regularly vs what oil (syn) you're using. I usually go 7K miles then change.
I am curious about Pennzoil PUP, I've never used Penzoil because it previously left sludge in the engine, does the new stuff not do that?

 

[mikeru82]

In 2 trucks I never heard the HEMI tick so I cant speak to that. I do know that what some mistakenly called the HEMI tick was actually the front pump on the trans but this was gen 3 and 4 trucks, my truck is dead quiet though. As was said earlier, I think the more important thing is to change the oil regularly vs what oil (syn) you're using. I usually go 7K miles then change.
I am curious about Pennzoil PUP, I've never used Penzoil because it previously left sludge in the engine, does the new stuff not do that?

I used to avoid Pennzoil like the plague back in the days before I started using synthetic. I had been using it for years in an old Chevelle until I removed my valve covers. It looked like molasses inside. And I changed my oil regularly every 3k-ish miles. I switched to Castrol after that and didn't see the same issues on later cars. I still won't use Pennzoil's conventional oils (although I'm sure they have improved them), even in my lawn and garden equipment. But in my research I've found that PUP rates very well among synthetics, and I use it in both of our Ram trucks.

 

[silver billet]

Whos arguing to use dino oil, I said most wouldn't push the truck that hard but factory fill is synthetic so its a moot point. No one suggested anything other than syn

It appears to me that when you wrote:

You will NEVER push the 5.7 or this truck to the point where you could are past the capabilities of regular dino oil.

that you are suggesting regular oil is fine and synthetic is a waste.

 

[BowDown]

I used to avoid Pennzoil like the plague back in the days before I started using synthetic. I had been using it for years in an old Chevelle until I removed my valve covers. It looked like molasses inside. And I changed my oil regularly every 3k-ish miles. I switched to Castrol after that and didn't see the same issues on later cars. I still won't use Pennzoil's conventional oils (although I'm sure they have improved them), even in my lawn and garden equipment. But in my research I've found that PUP rates very well among synthetics, and I use it in both of our Ram trucks.

That's exactly what I'm talking about with Pennzoil, I don't know if I want to test again. Had a 73 Charger in HS and all my parents used in it was Pennzoil. I went to install a cam and opened the valve covers and surprise!!

 

[BowDown]

It appears to me that when you wrote:



that you are suggesting regular oil is fine and synthetic is a waste.

You took it wrong then, never suggested such

 

[Mopar_maxi]

Redline 5w30 for me.

 

[UnloosedChewtoy]

Redline puts microchips in their oil, so the Feds can track your car everywhere. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, the FREEDOM OIL!

Seriously though, I've seen enough tests come back where PUP beats Redline. So, when its on sale, I buy PUP. Redline is a good oil, and the extra molly it has (more than any other oil I've seen so far) is probably what quiets the Hemi tick, but while molly is important, it isn't everything. The additives in PUP seem to be superior to Redline's, but maybe just by a bit.

That being said, Redline and PUP are way better than the minimum you really need (even for some trying to do extended drain intervals), you cannot go wrong with either.

Royal Purple oil used to be higher quality than it is now, they've cheapened it. Its mostly marketing now.

If you want to break your brain, go visit Bob Is the Oil Guy tomorrow morning. If you want, you can sit there all day until bed time and still not have read everything there is to know about oil and the various points and counter-points everyone has over there.

 

[silver billet]

Redline puts microchips in their oil, so the Feds can track your car everywhere. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, the FREEDOM OIL!

Seriously though, I've seen enough tests come back where PUP beats Redline. So, when its on sale, I buy PUP. Redline is a good oil, and the extra molly it has (more than any other oil I've seen so far) is probably what quiets the Hemi tick, but while molly is important, it isn't everything. The additives in PUP seem to be superior to Redline's, but maybe just by a bit.

That being said, Redline and PUP are way better than the minimum you really need (even for some trying to do extended drain intervals), you cannot go wrong with either.

Royal Purple oil used to be higher quality than it is now, they've cheapened it. Its mostly marketing now.

If you want to break your brain, go visit Bob Is the Oil Guy tomorrow morning. If you want, you can sit there all day until bed time and still not have read everything there is to know about oil and the various points and counter-points everyone has over there.

BITOG is useless to be honest. It's all politics and brand zealouts on there. Redline is the only oil that has been tested anecdotally and with UOA to reduce hemi tick. I can get > 13,000 KM on an oil change (that only happened once during covid) and they still tell me there is life left in the oil. So whatever brand you might love to use on other cars, its pretty clear that RL is doing something the "most right" so far that I've seen with the hemi. No other brand quiets the valve train in general, removes hemi tick, and leaves you with a long OCI all at once.

 

[GKIII]

BITOG is useless to be honest. It's all politics and brand zealouts on there. Redline is the only oil that has been tested anecdotally and with UOA to reduce hemi tick. I can get > 13,000 KM on an oil change (that only happened once during covid) and they still tell me there is life left in the oil. So whatever brand you might love to use on other cars, its pretty clear that RL is doing something the "most right" so far that I've seen with the hemi. No other brand quiets the valve train in general, removes hemi tick, and leaves you with a long OCI all at once.

Yea, I've had people (in the same thread) both tell me I'm wasting my money AND destroying my wife's Honda Pilot by using Mobil 1 on it lol. It's almost impossible to separate the chaff from the useful information.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

Always ran that in the past. Switched to PUP to ensure this truck’s lifetime warranty is honored (Mobil 1 hasn’t obtained Chrysler cert).

Mobil 1 5W-20 and 0W-20 grades have recently received the MS-6395 certification.

What type of oil and oil filter for my car? | Mobil™ Motor Oils

Find the best motor oil for your vehicle using our Mobil 1 Product Selector.

www.mobil.com

 

[HoosierTrooper]

I dont know if you ever watched project farm on YouTube, but he had done a bunch of testing on all kinds of oil, including Kirkland. I liked how well Kirkland flowed in the cold weather testing. Seemed to be among the best, so I plan on running that in my v-6 RAM come wintertime

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

The home made "tests" done by Project Farm are totally worthless. API licensed oils pass a battery of ASTM sequence tests conducted in professional laboratories by trained professionals using state of the art equipment following strict protocols. He uses home made equipment in his garage and his tests are amateurish middle school science fair project quality. API licensed oils have passed the cold cranking simulator (CCS) ASTM D5293 , and the mini-rotary viscometer (MRV) ASTM D4684 cold weather performance tests for their respective winter rating, as well as pour point rating established by using the ASTM D5949 test. Watching oil trickle down a piece of PVC pipe does not show how an oil "flows" in an engine.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

And to answer the OPs question, Mobil 1 hands down.

 

[The_Dude]

It should be noted that the oil weight is very important for the cylinder deactivation to work correctly. Most of the accounts of seized lifters was due to incorrect oil. That being said I have a huge stash of shell gas truck and Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

 

[Scram1500]

They still have M1 on the recommend list and not the meets or exceeds list. Nonetheless, welcome news and I can't wait for my next change to use M1

 

[GKIII]

They still have M1 on the recommend list and not the meets or exceeds list. Nonetheless, welcome news and I can't wait for my next change to use M1

I haven't actually seen an official release for mobile one, but supposedly the labels are changing later this year.

 

[KWKSLVR]

I use Mobil 1 because its very good, easy to get (walmart), cheap ($23 a 5 qt jug at walmart) and almost always has a $10 rebate.
Anyone thinking they are getting any benefit from redlie (yes, red lie), royal purple, amsoil, motul or any other boutique oils are only fooling themselves. You will NEVER push the 5.7 or this truck to the point where you could are past the capabilities of regular dino oil.
I use Mobile 1 5w30 in my built Z06 (700+Hp N/A) and regularly turn 7700 rpm, I've had the heads off for upgrades 3 times and the cross hatch is still on the cylinder walls and I beat the F out of this engine. This car does runway races or track days where its WOT any time the engine is running and Mobil 1 has stood up to this abuse perfectly.

I had a Daytona Shelby that I had turned up the boost on (25+psi), blew a head gasket and pushed a freeze plug out racing ejecting 100% of the coolant, I drove that car 10 miles home with the temp gauge pegged. The next day I pulled the head and turbo replaced the head gasket and put it back together, changed the oil then ran it. Oil that came out looked brand new and engine had no leaks and held pressure. That sold me on Mobil 1, this truck will never be pushed as hard as that car was nor my Z06, M1 is more than fine

In my college days (late 90's) we all used Mobile One in everything from V8's to turbocharged 4 cylinders (legit ones that ran 10's and 11's in the 1/4. Mobile One was perfect.

 

[GKIII]

Mobil 1 5W-20 and 0W-20 grades have recently received the MS-6395 certification.

What type of oil and oil filter for my car? | Mobil™ Motor Oils

Find the best motor oil for your vehicle using our Mobil 1 Product Selector.

www.mobil.com

I've heard that Mobil 1 has gotten approval but the website and packaging hasn't been updated yet. Some guys on BITOG say after Q2 this year...which obviuosly has already passed. So probably really soon.

If you read closely, out of the oils on this link only the Mobil Full Synthetic/Super (as in everything but the "Mobil 1" branded oils) are listed as actually now meeting the spec (vs being "recommended" for MS6395). This tells me proper Mobil 1 is not too far behind.


With that said, Mobil 1 is a great oil and I'll be using it once I see the PDS and/or product labels change.

 

[SpeedyV]

Mobil 1 5W-20 and 0W-20 grades have recently received the MS-6395 certification.

What type of oil and oil filter for my car? | Mobil™ Motor Oils

Find the best motor oil for your vehicle using our Mobil 1 Product Selector.

www.mobil.com

Please share the link to the certification, if you don’t mind.

 

[Richard320]

Please share the link to the certification, if you don’t mind.

It comes so close....

PdsDetailsPage

www.mobil.com

 

[GKIII]

PdsDetailsPage

www.mobil.com

Recommended for =/= Meets


As of right now only the Mobil Super and (Non "Mobil 1") Full Synthetic are listed as meeting the spec.

Compare for yourself:

https://www.mobil.com/en-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/na-us-mobil-super-synthetic

Splitting hairs? Yes, but not quite there yet for those that consider this important to their oil selection. The fact that the other oil lines now show as meeting the spec, I think Mobil 1 proper isn't far behind.