Oil Change indicator Interval - chan it be changed?

[JTMachineDesign]

Mine currently appears to be based on a 10K mileage interval.. I prefer to change my oil every 5K miles..
I know how to reset it, but does anyone know how to change the interval so it starts nagging when it's approaching 5K?

ya ya ya.. I know I can just change it when it says 50%,, but you see, if the wife sees it she'll get it changed for me

 

[Jako]

I have been following the forum for about a year and a half and have not seen anything here or in the owner's manual that details the ability to change the oil life setting.
My first oil change (dealership) was full synthetic and second (dealership) was traditional and no adjustment was made for the different oils with the oil life setting. From my understanding conventional oil and synthetic does not have the same mile life. Right now I am on my 3rd (myself and synthetic) with an oil change pace life of 10,000 mile.
Would or should you run conventional oil for 10,000 miles? If you shouldn't run conventional for 10K I would think the oil life setting should be adjusted for the type of oil. The owner's manual does not specify synthetic.
Owner's Manual:
"For best performance and maximum protection under all
types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends
engine oils that are API Certified and meet the
requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395."

 

[JTMachineDesign]

....I have been following the forum for about a year and a half and have not seen anything here or in the owner's manual that details the ability to change the oil life setting....

I've read that the interval is supposedly driven by some "intelligent algorithm" that takes into consideration several factors including the amount of power used, oil type, presence of alcohol in the fuel, speeds, etc.. most of my driving is 70 mph freeway under cruise control with me as the only payload, but I do occasionally tow both a travel and a utility trailer - both usually running at 6K pounds and when loaded and taking 100 mile trips. My usual driving yields a solid 17 mpg over a tankful dropping to 10.5 when towing. I've watched that oil life number closely and no matter what I do, it's locked on to 1%/100 miles.
My Wife's Grand Cherokee hemi only has a "needs service" indicator but it can be set for when it comes on, purely on mileage. She's been running an oil for elderly engines since she's looking hard at 250K miles, and has the dealer set it for a 3K interval. (she's a short tripper now- usually in the 11 mile range). That Jeep doesnt use a lick of oil between changes, the only sign the engine is that high mileage is an occasional brief lifter rattle when cold starting.
I'll chat up the "lubrication service technicians" when I see the grease monkeys at the next oil change and see what they know. Maybe you have to belong to that secret society to get the decoder ring. I have a hunch using some ODB-style tool that you just give it a number...

 

[Jako]

I've read that the interval is supposedly driven by some "intelligent algorithm" that takes into consideration several factors including the amount of power used, oil type, presence of alcohol in the fuel, speeds, etc.. most of my driving is 70 mph freeway under cruise control with me as the only payload, but I do occasionally tow both a travel and a utility trailer - both usually running at 6K pounds and when loaded and taking 100 mile trips. My usual driving yields a solid 17 mpg over a tankful dropping to 10.5 when towing. I've watched that oil life number closely and no matter what I do, it's locked on to 1%/100 miles.
My Wife's Grand Cherokee hemi only has a "needs service" indicator but it can be set for when it comes on, purely on mileage. She's been running an oil for elderly engines since she's looking hard at 250K miles, and has the dealer set it for a 3K interval. (she's a short tripper now- usually in the 11 mile range). That Jeep doesnt use a lick of oil between changes, the only sign the engine is that high mileage is an occasional brief lifter rattle when cold starting.
I'll chat up the "lubrication service technicians" when I see the grease monkeys at the next oil change and see what they know. Maybe you have to belong to that secret society to get the decoder ring. I have a hunch using some ODB-style tool that you just give it a number...

Neighbor is a BMW mechanic. I'm not sure if they even allow the mechanics fully into the secret society club. I'l do my best to remember to ask him when I see him if BMWs have that ability. It won't answer the question about the Ram but will get an idea of what is out there.

 

[SD Rebel]

The oil meter is based on a driving algorithm as mentioned above. It doesn't just count down from 10,000. It could get there if you do a lot of highway driving, but it drops quickly if you have a lot of idle time and stop and go driving, or what the computer considers a severe driving conditions. The info in the manual states it can come on as early as 3,500 miles.

The variables include speed, mileage, coolant temps and idle time to name the main ones. However it doesn't take into account things like "dusty" driving conditions that would be added to a severe duty cycle.

Due to the nature of the oil life meter, I don't think you can change it to act sooner based on mileage, maybe based oil life, so say turn on at 40% instead of 5%. I personally do it at every 5,000, but I'm sure you can go well beyond that. For me, that's about a year.

 

[JTMachineDesign]

For me, that's about a year.

For me, 3 months

getting it changed today. just hit 5000 miles and it says 50% - I think the algorithm is a crock.

 

[Rototerrier]

My oil life went down significantly fast when I was pulling my 14 foot tandem, fully loaded, between GA and TN a couple times. It was constantly shifting down to handle all the rolling hills. I was driving it pretty hard and it was noticed on the indicator.

I would suspect if you drive exactly the same and aren't stressing it out in any way, it could just be hitting whatever the max threshold is. 10k might be the default and it goes down from there when pressed. Just my guess. But I can tell you from experience that it will go down if you start hauling some heavy loads for significant periods.

 

[JTMachineDesign]

But I can tell you from experience that it will go down if you start hauling some heavy loads for significant periods.

You're probably right.
I have two trailers, towed them both in these first 5000 miles, but neither of them were loaded to max and together maybe 400 miles.
I'll just stick to my personal 5K oil change intervals Oil is cheap insurance.
(Dont let the smallish appearance of the utility trailer fool you, it's 70 years old and has monster bearings and axles. I've had it well over 5K pounds many times hauling wet DG and tows like a dream.)

 

[RSConsulting]

I do every 5-6K AT MOST - running either M1 Extended Wear or Pennz Platinum (when Wally World is out of the 5qt jugs of M1-E).

With the M1-E, you are "supposed to" be able to get 15K with their filters. I wouldn't even attempt that.

Most of my driving is stop-n-go, I idle a lot. I get "spasms" in my right foot, resulting in the pedal being pushed to the floor frequently (yes officer, it is a medical condition).

I did my last change at 6K, with 35% still showing on the console. First change at 1K, and added magnets to the drain plug and on the filter (Dimple - they go on everything I own that uses motor oil).

I'll be doing a change RIGHT BEFORE my next "towing trip" (7K lbs from FTL to Asheville & back), and usually RIGHT AFTER.

$45 for oil and filter (I do my own labor) is CHEAP INSURANCE for an engines longevity (IMHO). There's NO SUCH THING AS CHANGING YOUR OIL TOO OFTEN.

I pulled the valve covers on my Honda Pilot at 90K miles (of my typical abusive driving style) of M1-E - clean as a whistle, no sludge, very little varnish.

Using a good quality oil of the CORRECT VISCOSITY, and changing religiously - especially on VVT motors that use OIL as the "hydraulic fluid" in the control components of the VVT systems - is the key to keeping them running long and efficient (yeah - because 7MPG at 80MPH towing is REALLY EFFICIENT - but I didn't buy this thing for it's "great fuel efficiency").

So basically for me - the oil change indicator just tells me when I've been a REAL SPACE CASE, and forgot to do my change (or I forgot to reset it). But I keep maintenance logs and receipts anyways.

Rick


Side question here: How many people ACTUALLY PULL THE DIPSTICK and check you oil levels between changes? How much are you burning between changes?

 

[ForTehNguyen]

if you want to know the true oil life of your engine, send your oil sample to blackstone labs so they can measure the Total Base Number (TBN) which is the amount of additives left that will counter the acidic byproducts of combustion which causes the oil to start sludging. I guarantee you that youll still have a lot of life after 5K mile oil. I've done several analysis on various cars and synthetics can easily last 10k miles or a little longer. I change mine at 10k because of this. Also when you have 7 family vehicles to manage, like hell I'll be spending time changing oil every other weekend.

 

[LaxDfns15]

if you want to know the true oil life of your engine, send your oil sample to blackstone labs so they can measure the Total Base Number (TBN) which is the amount of additives left that will counter the acidic byproducts of combustion which causes the oil to start sludging. I guarantee you that youll still have a lot of life after 5K mile oil. I've done several analysis on various cars and synthetics can easily last 10k miles or a little longer. I change mine at 10k because of this. Also when you have 7 family vehicles to manage, like hell I'll be spending time changing oil every other weekend.

That's the thing that most people don't realize. It's not the oil, it's the filter. I change full synthetic at every 10k as well (I'll do changes at 2k, then 10k, then every 10 after that). Did that on my Titan for 12 years, 160k miles, no problems. I know it's anecdotal evidence, but it's worked for me. Running a filter for too long and accumulating debris is going to wear it out long before the oil goes. Don't go by "If the oil's dark it needs to be changed" BS. Your oil is going to turn dark within 100 miles of driving.

 

[SD Rebel]

For me, 3 months

getting it changed today. just hit 5000 miles and it says 50% - I think the algorithm is a crock.

It's not, if you drive in a less severe cycle, you can do it at 10,000 miles. Based on my countdown however, I will be at zero at less than 6,000 miles due to my high levels of stop and go driving. My truck goes through a severe drive cycle, however since it's not my daily driver, it takes me about a year to reach those miles.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

That's the thing that most people don't realize. It's not the oil, it's the filter. I change full synthetic at every 10k as well (I'll do changes at 2k, then 10k, then every 10 after that). Did that on my Titan for 12 years, 160k miles, no problems. I know it's anecdotal evidence, but it's worked for me. Running a filter for too long and accumulating debris is going to wear it out long before the oil goes. Don't go by "If the oil's dark it needs to be changed" BS. Your oil is going to turn dark within 100 miles of driving.

Why also I use the filters with synthetic elements, rated for longer intervals. But even the car manufacturers are doing 10k mile oil changes on the same oil filter they did 5k on.