Official RamBox Adjustment Procedure?

[Edwards]

Does anyone have any printed manual info that outlines how Ram adjusts the RamBox doors? I'd previously adjusted my passenger side but now the drivers side that was fine from the factory is low on one side and high on the other. It's just slowly gotten that way. It's the one I use the most (groceries, etc.) but never has had anything heavy or big in it. The door just got wonky and I can't seem to do anything to get it to straighten out.

Thought I'd ask before leaving it to the dealer/body shop for what has to be a multi-day procedure. @202snowman - any printed reference in your online manuals? Thanks.

 

[Edwards]

Had another wild idea and held the lid as low as possible without it latching. It has the exact same tilt forward to back. Somehow the lid is warped and holding that warpedness even while latched.
I've got it in the garage now with a 26lb kettlebell sitting on one end of the RamBox lid and that's leveled it out.

 

[Rich]

I thought I noticed mine was off a bit on the rear of the driver's side. I put some pressure and it seemed to move a little. Now a week or two later it looks ok. I'm not sure it it's temperature related or it was a one time event. I need some warm weather to find out.

 

[202snowman]

Does anyone have any printed manual info that outlines how Ram adjusts the RamBox doors? I'd previously adjusted my passenger side but now the drivers side that was fine from the factory is low on one side and high on the other. It's just slowly gotten that way. It's the one I use the most (groceries, etc.) but never has had anything heavy or big in it. The door just got wonky and I can't seem to do anything to get it to straighten out.

Thought I'd ask before leaving it to the dealer/body shop for what has to be a multi-day procedure. @202snowman - any printed reference in your online manuals? Thanks.

Some adjustment items in there

 

[Edwards]

Some adjustment items in there

Thanks but now I'm more baffled. Including mine, and what these instructions outline, there are three different striker assemblies being used by Ram in less than one year.

Apparent versions:
1. Striker base with adjustable nuts at bottom.
2. Strikers with rivets at bottom.
3. Strikers with welded nuts at bottom as I have.

Here's a photo of mine:


At first, I tried really hard with a 10mm socket to get one of the nuts to turn but they are solidly affixed to the plate. This means that to adjust the striker, you have to remove the entire RamBox because the bolts (same as top two) must be accessed from the other side.

Also, these instructions say, "Loosen the two lower nuts (2) and push them outboard to loosen them from plastic bin." Mine is not built like that. On the backside, there is an identical sized plate with the upper two nuts welded to it. With the two plates sandwiching the plastic RamBox, there is no way you would loosen anything from the "plastic bin."

Am I missing something easy here? I just can't fathom that Ram would make you remove the whole RamBox to adjust the latch.

 

[SpeedyV]

Thanks but now I'm more baffled. Including mine, and what these instructions outline, there are three different striker assemblies being used by Ram in less than one year.

Apparent versions:
1. Striker base with adjustable nuts at bottom.
2. Strikers with rivets at bottom.
3. Strikers with welded nuts at bottom as I have.

Here's a photo of mine:
View attachment 15958

At first, I tried really hard with a 10mm socket to get one of the nuts to turn but they are solidly affixed to the plate. This means that to adjust the striker, you have to remove the entire RamBox because the bolts (same as top two) must be accessed from the other side.

Also, these instructions say, "Loosen the two lower nuts (2) and push them outboard to loosen them from plastic bin." Mine is not built like that. On the backside, there is an identical sized plate with the upper two nuts welded to it. With the two plates sandwiching the plastic RamBox, there is no way you would loosen anything from the "plastic bin."

Am I missing something easy here? I just can't fathom that Ram would make you remove the whole RamBox to adjust the latch.

Mine matches yours, i.e. it is non-adjustable. They may have figured that out early on and adjusted the assembly process afterwards. And unless I'm missing something, the document provided by @202snowman only addresses the latch only, not the hinge adjustments. Those of us with early-build RamBoxes will have to follow your documented removal process (thank you for that).

 

[Kurteduard]

This RAMBOX issue goes back 10 Years....10 Years?....Yes...You can go back and see RAMBOX alignment issues from 2009 and all the way until my 2020 Limited 1500! Unbelievable why RAM can't make those little door flaps out of something stiffer than soft play tool plastic, or at least design it with a stiffener so it wont look like and dry piece of old cheese..... we are talking about 10 generations of RAMBOX here!
It must make everybody wonder if anyone in there at Chrysler, Dodge, RAM or FIAT whomever approve design even care about or read about user level issues and complaints we actually just want to drive around in a product we all can be proud off, I love the RAMBOX but I hate they after 10 Years not have been able to make a product there look and hold up nice, shame on you RAMBOX designers.
Just like all the poor bastards there wanted and ordered the 1500 Limited with trailer package paying $400.00 extra to drive safe with and wide trailer and then without knowing it lost lost the auto fold mirrors and 360 surround cameras even if it is shown in the MOPAR road trailer handling 360 surround camera video commercials, sad the RAM obviously gives a damn about there customers and solve the trouble RAM design and poor buyer information have caused them, RAM need to come out of their dark hiding place of carelessness and help RAM Truck byers to be satisfied with their product!

 

[reelman]

When I got home with my new Ecodiesel Laramie, I noticed the front of the passenger side rambox lid was about 1/2" high. Being a mechanical engineer, I found this unacceptable. After much headscratching, I concluded that this fit is not adjustable (not acceptable). After removing the complete rambox (and destroying the electrical connector lock) I decided that the two bolts on the bottom of the latch striker plate are for ease of factory installation, and really serve no other useful purpose. See above post for proper wiring connector disconnect.

Fix:
with an 8mm socket, remove all screws from inside rambox
Lift ONLY the front of the box enough to access and remove the two screws that thread into the nuts welded to the striker plate. This may allow this fix without disconnecting the electric cable. If =
If the two 8mm screws have not been removed, do it now. The striker plate is now free of the rambox
Using a Dremel, or other grinder, slot the two upper holes about 3/8" wide by about 5/16" long toward the top of the plate. This allows vertical adjustment of the striker plate.
You can now vertically adjust the closure of the lid. I see no loss of function or security with this fix.

PS: I have a machine shop, so I slotted with a 3/8" end mill. If enough members want me to do this, work up a group buy, and I'll do both strikers for $50 including return postage.

PPS: I wrapped a small zip tie around the electrical connector to replace the factory clip

 

[mikeru82]

When I got home with my new Ecodiesel Laramie, I noticed the front of the passenger side rambox lid was about 1/2" high. Being a mechanical engineer, I found this unacceptable. After much headscratching, I concluded that this fit is not adjustable (not acceptable). After removing the complete rambox (and destroying the electrical connector lock) I decided that the two bolts on the bottom of the latch striker plate are for ease of factory installation, and really serve no other useful purpose. See above post for proper wiring connector disconnect. View attachment 59323

Fix:
with an 8mm socket, remove all screws from inside rambox
Lift ONLY the front of the box enough to access and remove the two screws that thread into the nuts welded to the striker plate. This may allow this fix without disconnecting the electric cable. If =
If the two 8mm screws have not been removed, do it now. The striker plate is now free of the rambox
Using a Dremel, or other grinder, slot the two upper holes about 3/8" wide by about 5/16" long toward the top of the plate. This allows vertical adjustment of the striker plate. View attachment 59324
You can now vertically adjust the closure of the lid. I see no loss of function or security with this fix. View attachment 59326

PS: I have a machine shop, so I slotted with a 3/8" end mill. If enough members want me to do this, work up a group buy, and I'll do both strikers for $50 including return postage.

PPS: I wrapped a small zip tie around the electrical connector to replace the factory clip

Glad your solution worked for you. But I'm not sure it would work for mine. I have the same issue as you, although not as severe. But I also have an issue that I'm not sure your fix would address. In addition to both ends of the lid on my driver side being raised up, both corners are not flush with the bed. They are sucked in. Also, the center of the lid isn't flush either, but instead of being sucked in like the corners, it protrudes out. I'm at a loss as to how to fix this, but I'll try your suggestion since the dealership doesn't want to touch mine.

I agree that it's unbelievable they still haven't designed these lids to fit correctly. It's obvious that they don't care enough. Fortunately I'm otherwise happy with the feature, and use those boxes all the time. I also use the bed divider a lot. I just wish they looked like they belong where they are, instead of looking like someone hacked up their bed sides to add storage.

 

[todfhunt]

Glad your solution worked for you. But I'm not sure it would work for mine. I have the same issue as you, although not as severe. But I also have an issue that I'm not sure your fix would address. In addition to both ends of the lid on my driver side being raised up, both corners are not flush with the bed. They are sucked in. Also, the center of the lid isn't flush either, but instead of being sucked in like the corners, it protrudes out. I'm at a loss as to how to fix this, but I'll try your suggestion since the dealership doesn't want to touch mine.

I agree that it's unbelievable they still haven't designed these lids to fit correctly. It's obvious that they don't care enough. Fortunately I'm otherwise happy with the feature, and use those boxes all the time. I also use the bed divider a lot. I just wish they looked like they belong where they are, instead of looking like someone hacked up their bed sides to add storage.

Did the striker plate adjustment fix your alignment?
I have the same alignment issues: Vertical as discussed for the striker plate adjustment, and like yours, Horizontal where the lower corners bend in. There is about 1/8” of horizontal play by loosening the top hinge 10mm bolts but then the center sticks out and is not aligned.

 

[mikeru82]

Did the striker plate adjustment fix your alignment?
I have the same alignment issues: Vertical as discussed for the striker plate adjustment, and like yours, Horizontal where the lower corners bend in. There is about 1/8” of horizontal play by loosening the top hinge 10mm bolts but then the center sticks out and is not aligned.

Honestly, I haven't tried it. And now that the cold weather has hit I won't touch it until the weather warms back up next spring. I'm not as concerned about the looks of them as I was when the truck was newer, so who knows if I'll ever try to fix them at this point.

 

[RRRAAAAMMMM2020]

When I got home with my new Ecodiesel Laramie, I noticed the front of the passenger side rambox lid was about 1/2" high. Being a mechanical engineer, I found this unacceptable. After much headscratching, I concluded that this fit is not adjustable (not acceptable). After removing the complete rambox (and destroying the electrical connector lock) I decided that the two bolts on the bottom of the latch striker plate are for ease of factory installation, and really serve no other useful purpose. See above post for proper wiring connector disconnect. View attachment 59323

Fix:
with an 8mm socket, remove all screws from inside rambox
Lift ONLY the front of the box enough to access and remove the two screws that thread into the nuts welded to the striker plate. This may allow this fix without disconnecting the electric cable. If =
If the two 8mm screws have not been removed, do it now. The striker plate is now free of the rambox
Using a Dremel, or other grinder, slot the two upper holes about 3/8" wide by about 5/16" long toward the top of the plate. This allows vertical adjustment of the striker plate. View attachment 59324
You can now vertically adjust the closure of the lid. I see no loss of function or security with this fix. View attachment 59326

PS: I have a machine shop, so I slotted with a 3/8" end mill. If enough members want me to do this, work up a group buy, and I'll do both strikers for $50 including return postage.

PPS: I wrapped a small zip tie around the electrical connector to replace the factory clip

Can you show a picture of the striker plate now that it is adjusted? Did you still new holes? I have a similar problem as you and would like to adjust the plate if possible to allow for adjustment

 

[kevinjones1997]

I need to try this adjustment, as my passenger side lid protrudes out, but only on the "forward" end of the lid. The back end is flush, and the entire driver's side is perfect.

 

[todfhunt]

I need to try this adjustment, as my passenger side lid protrudes out, but only on the "forward" end of the lid. The back end is flush, and the entire driver's side is perfect.

If it’s aligned on the other end then it may be a simple hinge adjustment. You should get about 1/8” of play on the hinge.
> Only barely loosen the two bolts on the top side (lid) of the hinge. Loosen only enough so that a push or pull will cause movement, not so much that it is free by its own weight. Close the lid then push it in. Open the lid and retighten.

 

[Tiger 1500]

Planning on buying a new 1500 in the next few days. Dealer has two identical trucks, except one has ram box other doesn’t. Would you buy with the Ram Box again or avoid because of alignment issues? Thanks for your input

 

[mikeru82]

Planning on buying a new 1500 in the next few days. Dealer has two identical trucks, except one has ram box other doesn’t. Would you buy with the Ram Box again or avoid because of alignment issues? Thanks for your input

We can't know whether you'll like having the option or not, but I can tell you that those of us who have them love them. There is a thread asking rambox owners if they have any regrets about getting them, and everyone who has them and has posted in that thread says they have no regrets about getting them. Personally, I won't buy another Ram without them. The alignment issues bothered me at first, but the usefulness of them far outweighs any cosmetic issues they might have. Here's a link to the other thread...

Anyone wish they had NOT ordered Ramboxes?

Have seen lots of posts from people who have Ramboxes and love them. Does anyone here have Ramboxes and wish they didn’t? Why? I’ve heard about warping, but wondering if there are any other downsides that would make me regret the choice. Thanks!

5thgenrams.com

 

[kevinjones1997]

Planning on buying a new 1500 in the next few days. Dealer has two identical trucks, except one has ram box other doesn’t. Would you buy with the Ram Box again or avoid because of alignment issues? Thanks for your input

Yes I absolutely would buy it again. It's like having a trunk and a bed in the same vehicle. Plus, they can hold a lot more than it looks at first glance.

 

[bill-e]

Thought you guys might find this interesting

Ram Box Lid Fitment And Or Closing Effort Issues (nhtsa.gov)

 

[RRRAAAAMMMM2020]

Thought you guys might find this interesting

Ram Box Lid Fitment And Or Closing Effort Issues (nhtsa.gov)

That is really interesting indeed. I took my truck into the dealer today due to an alignment issue with the passenger side rambox (large gap near latch when closed with sides of lid sitting outside box sides). The solution is apparently a new lid. I think I will be taking this paperwork when the new lid comes in

 

[mikeru82]

That document says to replace with a lid made after March 30, 2020 if the adjustment are not effective, so it's obvious they made a change. I wonder what they changed. Might be time to take it in again. Thanks for posting that bill-e!

I might have to just buy that $90 special tool and try adjusting it myself.