OE-Style Dual Exhaust Swapped Tradesman

[ND RAM]

Okay folks, I present to you the first known OE-style dual exhaust swapped Tradesman. I did not use the factory cat-back but rather the Magnaflow system. This thread is a bit long but I tried to document the step-by-step process I used in case someone else wants to swap their Tradesman. With that being said I would highly recommend buying a truck with the factory duals if possible.

This is the factory setup that my Tradesman came with: side exit single exhaust with non-cutout bumper.


The dual cutout bumper sub-assembly comes from Mopar unpainted but in e-coat so you will have to have it paint matched to your truck. The reason this swap took so long for me was because I had the bumper ceramic coated, like the rest of my truck, prior to installing. There is a minimum 90 day off-gassing period for the new paint before the ceramic coating can be applied.

First, I removed the lower trim pieces from the bumper. I chose to do this first but if I were to do this project again I would recommend holding off until the bumper is removed from the truck. These are bolted on so they are relatively easy to remove with a 10mm and a flathead screwdriver.

There are five snap clips that hold the trim on in addition to the five bolts. These are easily removed with a little tension and a flathead screwdriver. The most difficult one to access is the tab on the outboard side from the leading-edge bumper trim piece. Retain the nut clips for reuse with the new cutout trim pieces.

The next step is to disconnect the bumper light wiring connector. It’s much easier to disconnect this now than to have the bumper supported only by wires later. The red piece (shown partially backed out) was somewhat bound from sand/grit on my truck. I had to work the locking slide (red piece) in and out to dislodge the grit until I could unlock the connector.

Next are the four outboard (two on each side) bumper bracket bolts. The nuts are 16mm.

After the outboard bumper bracket bolts are undone, there are two remaining bolts behind the license plate. Remove the license plate and carefully remove these two bolts. The bumper will be free so support it as your remove the bolts or it will pivot up into the quarter panel along the ends.

Once you have removed the bumper set it on a work bench or the tailgate using towels to prevent scratching of the original bumper. I found the tailgate is actually a really good height to work on it so I went with it.

 

[ND RAM]

From here, the wiring connector for the trailer light outlet protrudes so now is a good time to remove the receptacle. Disconnect the wiring connector and pinch the two aluminum tabs to allow the receptacle to be removed.

Next, using a flathead screw driver remove the insert from the two plastic rivets behind the license plate then remove the female portions. Save these pieces as they will be reused during reassembly.

I also removed the license plate lights at this point. They are only held in with a single 10mm bolt so they can be removed at any point but you’re already working in the area.

I started taking off the leading-edge trim pieces at this point however you won’t be able to fully remove them until the middle step cover is removed so feel free to hold off on this step until later. To remove the locking tabs I found a scraper for leverage and a phillips head screwdriver worked well.

I went ahead and removed the bumper bracket bolts I could reach now however you will have to wait until the middle step is removed to undo the top bolts.


As I previously stated I started working on removing the top covers from the ends inward which was the wrong direction. The middle step cover is held on with numerous push tabs to help lock it into place. Starting from the middle, go slow and be patient while undoing these. I found a plastic interior trim tool worked well for prying up on the cover while I was squeezing the tabs to unlock them. Once you have unsnapped enough of the tabs you can insert a socket under the cover to maintain some upwards pressure while working your way out. This may also help prevent that pesky 10mm from wandering off if it hasn’t already. Again, be patient and persistent here. Better to unsnap the same one twice than have to buy a new step cover if you don’t have to.


After what seems like a solid half hour or more I had the middle step cover removed. You can see just how many snaps are on this piece and how closely they are positioned.

 

[ND RAM]

Next, I took the outboard step covers off. I had previously removed the leading-edge trim locking tabs but if you haven’t do so now.

With the outboard covers removed you can now access all of the remaining bumper bracket bolts. I also removed all of the torx head screws holding the bumper to the frame. I did this because it is easier to use the old frame which already has all of the wiring routed properly.

After a thorough cleaning of everything the frame can now be installed in the new dual cutout bumper.

Remove the old nut clips from the non-cutout bumper and install them on the dual cutout bumper to facilitate installation of the bumper brackets. These nut clips go in the same positions on the new bumper so remove one side and install them on the new bumper so you can reference the other side of the old bumper if you have any question.

With the frame and bumper brackets installed, reassembly can now begin for the covers. The covers just snap back into place with the exception of the lower trim pieces. Remove the nut clips from the original non-cutout trim pieces and install the new sections. Reinstall the license plate lights, plactic rivets, and trailer connectors.

With reassembly complete the bumper can now be reinstalled beginning with the two inboard bolts and working your way out. Don’t forget to reconnect the light wiring connector.


Now that the new bumper is hung you will need to begin installing the new exhaust components. I did not buy the factory bolts for either the exhaust hanger or the heat shield but rather took one of each to the parts store and got the closest length bolt I could find and used fender washers. Since the Tradesman comes with single exhaust it lacks the drivers side rear exhaust hanger. You will have to undo the three bolts holding on a wiring connector bracket to install this. I had to bend this bracket down a little even after unbolting it to allow for access to tighten the upper exhaust hanger bolt. Reinstall the bracket once the hanger bolts are tightened down.

 

[ND RAM]

Next the new drivers side heat shield can be installed. Each half is held on with three M6 bolts approximately 1 inch long. I also did not use factory fasteners on the heat shield.





The finished product a 100% OE-style dual exhaust setup on a Tradesman. The Magnaflow is a much needed improvement over the stock exhaust but still quiet enough that the wife doesn't mind it. I still need to try to align the tips a little bit better but overall I'm quite happy with the system.

 

[ND RAM]

Note that in NC sales tax is 6.75% so the totals will be different from state to state. I bought my exhaust through Jegs when it was on sale last year.

P/N​	NOMEN.​	QTY​	LIST​	NET​	SALE (W/ TAXES)​
68404438AB	Step Bumper, Sub Assy	1​	$432.90​	$370.00​	$394.98​
68299094AB	Rear Valance, Inner	1​	$11.11​	$8.45​	$9.02​
68299095AB	Rear Valance, Inner	1​	$11.11​	$8.45​	$9.02​
68299100AB	Rear Valance, Outer	1​	$16.94​	$16.94​	$18.08​
68299101AB	Rear Valance, Outer	1​	$16.94​	$16.94​	$18.08​
68269477AB	Heat Shield, Driver Side	1​	$105.17​	$105.17​	$112.27​
68275662AB	Exhaust Bracket	1​	$32.10​	$26.95​	$28.77​
68410310AB	Isolator, Exhaust	1​	$25.45​	$21.35​	$22.79​
DOR 423-225	Bolt M6-1.0X25	3​	$0.39​	$1.17​	$1.25​
DOR 428-450	Bolt M8-1.0X50	2​	$1.09​	$2.18​	$2.33​
19429​	Magnaflow Street Series Cat-Back	1​	$870.00​		$798.28​
	PARTS TOTAL:				$1,414.87​

JOB​	RATE/HR​	HRS​	NET​
Paint Misc.			$5.00​
Paint Labor	$46.00​	2.5​	$115.00​
Paint Supplies	$32.00​	2.5​	$80.00​
PAINT TOTAL:			$213.50​
Ceramic Coating			$80.00​
LABOR TOTAL:​			$293.50​

 

[mike12193]

I have a dual outlet factory exhaust that was removed from my limited if anyone is interested in doing this. It has about 850 miles through it. Make me a offer I am on the NY/NJ boarder. Zip code 10987


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[ND RAM]

Updated with parts list for conversion.

 

[Patsy1099]

Awesome write-up. Thanks for sharing

 

[moparleo51]

i have a factory ehaust too minus the tips if anyone is interested, live in ohio.

 

[TecShdw]

Awesome write-up. The parts list especially. I'm thinking of doing the same on my 2019 Tradesman. Since I've got the chrome it looks like I can get a chrome bumper to save on the paint aspect .

Thanks for the time you put into this!

 

[speed_ga]

Thank you so much for the list if parts and write up. My tradesman is now set up with a dual flowmaster exhaust thanks to you!