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Nuetral disconnect lever

willhicks56

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I needed tow to dealer because the Hemi cranked fine but no start. Tried to make neutral by lever and wheels still locked. So tow driver had to drag to flat bed. I was not too happy about that. Does the lever release electronic park brake also? Or just for trans neutral? Is that lever mechanical? Or electronic?
 
I needed tow to dealer because the Hemi cranked fine but no start. Tried to make neutral by lever and wheels still locked. So tow driver had to drag to flat bed. I was not too happy about that. Does the lever release electronic park brake also? Or just for trans neutral? Is that lever mechanical? Or electronic?
Lever only releases transmission z not the electric park brake
 
You can't without power. Engine doesn't need to be running just have it irikn in run
That's what I thought. So if a dead battery or won't go to run, you can't release electric park brakes?
 
Lower left under the steering wheel is a small panel to open and behind that is a red strap, you pull that to release things and allow towing. It is in the Manual.
 
Use a boost pack to provide power, turn off the auto park brake in settings, then I'd put the transfer case in neutral rather then mess with the transmission neutral.
 
Lower left under the steering wheel is a small panel to open and behind that is a red strap, you pull that to release things and allow towing. It is in the Manual.
That does nothing for the electric park brake.
 
Use a boost pack to provide power, turn off the auto park brake in settings, then I'd put the transfer case in neutral rather then mess with the transmission neutral.
Easier to use the manual transmission release. Still need power to put transfer case in neutral.
 
I have my parking brake disabled. I only use it on hills, and sometimes to make sure it doesn't rot out.
Letting it enable every time is asking for trouble esp because it's electric for some unknown reason.
 
I have my parking brake disabled. I only use it on hills, and sometimes to make sure it doesn't rot out.
Letting it enable every time is asking for trouble esp because it's electric for some unknown reason.
Thanks for replies, I had a good crank but no start. So got tow. Brake pedal was very hard so that was suspicious. Never does that. I'm guessing problem of no start related to a vacume or some relay. Should know soon when dealer calls. Does anyone know if neutral disconnect lever is mechanical or electric solenoid?
 
Thanks for replies, I had a good crank but no start. So got tow. Brake pedal was very hard so that was suspicious. Never does that. I'm guessing problem of no start related to a vacume or some relay. Should know soon when dealer calls. Does anyone know if neutral disconnect lever is mechanical or electric solenoid?
Mechanical
 
Thanks for replies, I had a good crank but no start. So got tow. Brake pedal was very hard so that was suspicious. Never does that. I'm guessing problem of no start related to a vacume or some relay. Should know soon when dealer calls. Does anyone know if neutral disconnect lever is mechanical or electric solenoid?
Mechanical as far as I know.
 
I have my parking brake disabled. I only use it on hills, and sometimes to make sure it doesn't rot out.
Letting it enable every time is asking for trouble esp because it's electric for some unknown reason.
I went with the auto actuation so it is exercised frequently, I don't recall how the pedal to apply is connected. But in the wonderful NorthEast and all the ice melters they apply to the roads an occasionally applied mechanical brake will corrode and hang up or freeze in the winter.
By using mine all the time I have not had issues with them in a long time (55+ years)
 
I went with the auto actuation so it is exercised frequently, I don't recall how the pedal to apply is connected. But in the wonderful NorthEast and all the ice melters they apply to the roads an occasionally applied mechanical brake will corrode and hang up or freeze in the winter.
By using mine all the time I have not had issues with them in a long time (55+ years)
The problem with that is if your RF hub blows, or your battery dies you aren't going to be able to get it towed very easy with your parking brake stuck on.
I am in the North East also and I use my parking breaking manually myself frequently enough to not get problems with it.

This parking break is electronic not mechanical so no matter what you do if your battery is dead there is no release.
Even the transmission has a neutral release with no juice.
Just something to keep in mind especially during the colder months when a battery is likely to die.
 
The problem with that is if your RF hub blows, or your battery dies you aren't going to be able to get it towed very easy with your parking brake stuck on.
I am in the North East also and I use my parking breaking manually myself frequently enough to not get problems with it.

This parking break is electronic not mechanical so no matter what you do if your battery is dead there is no release.
Even the transmission has a neutral release with no juice.
Just something to keep in mind especially during the colder months when a battery is likely to die.
I haven't done this myself, but someone on the TRX forum suggested how it could be done (i.e., disengage the parking brake without power):

Using a 12V Dewalt battery (or any similar 12V feed), disconnect the connector to the parking brake at each rear wheel and apply power/ground to them. If it doesn't work, switch the wires and do it again. One or the other will disengage the brakes.

Again, I haven't actually done this, so I have no idea if it really works or not.
 
I haven't done this myself, but someone on the TRX forum suggested how it could be done (i.e., disengage the parking brake without power):

Using a 12V Dewalt battery (or any similar 12V feed), disconnect the connector to the parking brake at each rear wheel and apply power/ground to them. If it doesn't work, switch the wires and do it again. One or the other will disengage the brakes.

Again, I haven't actually done this, so I have no idea if it really works or not.
The only problem I can think of is how long does the system need to have power to be able to allow a disengagement.
I wonder if you could connect one of those battery jumpstarters and just not try to crank to get it to release with the button?

Neither of which I want to mess with if my battery dies.
 
The only problem I can think of is how long does the system need to have power to be able to allow a disengagement.
I wonder if you could connect one of those battery jumpstarters and just not try to crank to get it to release with the button?

Neither of which I want to mess with if my battery dies.
I believe the switch (in your dash) only works when the vehicle is on. If that's correct, then hooking a jumper cable to your truck wouldn't make it work. That's probably why you need to go straight to the EPB with the power.
Based on the sound it makes when engaging, you probably only need to apply voltage for 1-2 seconds at each wheel.
 

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