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No way to properly level ORG?

jellyballs

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Yes, I know about the search function. most have air or different configurations and im not finding solid answers.
2022 ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 CC 6.4 bed with the ORP non-air.

Just spoke with ready lift and they said nope don't do it regarding their 2" level with control arms. My truck is measuring 23" from hub to fender. They state won't work for anything over 22".
Are y'all just sending it and getting away with it? No problems? My truck has 2" of rake from front to rear. I'm ok with some rake such as 0.5"-1" max.

1" motofab top hat and then get the ready lift arms? Say screw you to the engineers and do it anyway? I don't want to run Bilstein if possible to retain factory ride.
 

Choate

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I’ve never heard of a problem w a 2” level on any truck but it may be because with the ORG you’re going to be 3” up. Get some control arms for a 3”-3.5” and you should be good. There is no 1” motofab kit btw. There is a 1/2”
 
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jellyballs

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I agree, however ready lift says no go. I see rebels running the 2" kit and I'm pretty sure their suspension and the ORG trucks are essentially the same. If the struts are longer then ok I can see a problem, but I was under the impression that strut length is the same between a "regular" 1500 vs one with a "1" factory" lift.
If that is true, then isn't throwing on a 2" level essential the same as a regular truck going with the 3.5" SST kit?

I do take my truck down some moderate forest service roads and would like to make sure I do the most proper level as possible.

I see Zone offers a level that includes some preload mixed with a top hat?
 

Sascwatch

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Bilstein leveling struts with whichever upper control arm you prefer will work on org or rebels. You just can’t do the full 2”, included instructions show which notches are compatible with the off road or rebel trucks.
 

jellyballs

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Bilstein leveling struts with whichever upper control arm you prefer will work on org or rebels. You just can’t do the full 2”, included instructions show which notches are compatible with the off road or rebel trucks.

I see a bunch of rebels running the 2" ready lift, isn't my truck the same? Although it states its not for use on those either. Wondering if they're all operating on borrowed time or if it's essentially not that big of a deal. I've ran bilstein before and was not impressed. If I could find a 1" or 1.5" top hat with new UCA's to keep factory ride quality that would be my goal.

I am not an expert my any stretch of the imagination, all of my trucks have had full lift kits this is my first one ever im trying to keep stock as possible lol ok maybe some Carven exhaust too...ok and maybe new wheels and tires...ok and maybe etc.
 

Sascwatch

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As far as I know the bilstein 5100 has the same internals as their 4600 which SHOULD be the same as the stock rebel shocks from bilstein unless ram has some custom valving in them.

Rebel and off road group trucks have the same 1” lift from the factory, I believe this is achieved with longer coil springs.

Bilstein doesn’t require swapping out the upper control arms with their leveling struts, but only reccomends the lower settings when installing them on an off-road or rebel truck for some reason. Adding the full 2” may cause cv axle binding or issues with the upper ball joint which would easily be fixed by swapping the uca’s with an aftermarket brand or rams own upper control arms from their factory fox lift kit.
 

SurfRebel20

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I'm running 2.5 inches on a rebel with no problems. 6112s on clip 8 and a 1/2 in spacer. Ucas of course. You should be fine with 2inch level on an org
 

jellyballs

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So you only extended your strut by 0.5" though technically if I understand correctly. I'm familiar with the Bilstein route, I ran 6112s on my previous ram on setting 6 (non-ORG).

I would like to just do the ready lift route with UCA's and call it a day personally to keep the factory ride. The bilsteins change the ride when you squeeze out the 2" lift from them. Thats what has me leaning more towards Zone's leveling kit. They do preload/top hat which I assume is a good middle ground of not too much preload lift and not over extending strut? Vs just a 2" top hat?

lol I seriously thought the level life would be way easier than this
 

MikeyHo808

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I feel you on the lack of level options for ORP’s, but then I went with the Bilstein’s because of this.
“…not compatible with Off Road Package or trucks with the factory lift…”. How many of these I have come across during my online search for a level.
There are some that have had issues maxing out at ring 5, so I have mine set on ring 4 with about a 3/8 inch of rake, and the ride is better than stock, to me. Our roads seriously suck, and there is a big improvement in my daily commute.
 

puba08

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Bilstein or Eibach set closet to 2”. That with the OPR you will net approximately 3” level. You do not need UCA’s but it is recommended. Ditch the whole idea of the puck spacers. You don’t need to do anything to the rear. And your done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

jellyballs

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People who have only added top hat spacers have had issues with the spring contacting the uca. Not a great idea

how much lift are you getting out of your setup with clip 8 and a 1/2" top hat? those wheels and tires are perfect
 

jellyballs

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Ok fine I cave, Bilstein it is with zone UCA's. I have a set of new 5160's for the rear laying in my garage that were supposed to go on my previous truck so I suppose it's 6112 time again...or 8112 if I want to sleep outside for the next year or so.

I have no need for them but damn they look good.
 

SurfRebel20

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how much lift are you getting out of your setup with clip 8 and a 1/2" top hat? those wheels and tires are perfect
Center of hub to bottom of front fender is 24 1/4 and I've had them on for about a year. Ground to fender is about 40 3/4. This is with a full tank of gas and a topper on the back
 

djevox

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I just messed with trying to make the ready lift 2” tophat spacer work yesterday. The spacer paired with the ORG front strut wouldn’t allow the UCA ball joint to go into the spindle without getting creative b/c it was hitting my strut.

I decided to put my fox 2.0 ifp coilovers back on and do the pita process of adjusting them. I still used a 1/2” motofab tophat spacer so I wouldn’t need to keep cranking on the preload.

Here’s a pic of my failed attempt:
0ECFE581-9E26-4822-A75E-03DE62BC6A9C.jpeg
352B6A67-A095-40DB-96E4-F46B84533F2A.jpeg
 
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JbVt

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I swapped the ORG shocks for Bilstein 5100 @ 2" and installed Readylift UCA. Full range of motion, no binding or hitting of parts. Plus the readylift uca have a grease zerk. (y)
 
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Pyleketerson

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This what I went with.
 

jellyballs

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I just messed with trying to make the ready lift 2” tophat spacer work yesterday. The spacer paired with the ORG front strut wouldn’t allow the UCA ball joint to go into the spindle without getting creative b/c it was hitting my strut.

I decided to put my fox 2.0 ifp coilovers back on and do the pita process of adjusting them. I still used a 1/2” motofab tophat spacer so I wouldn’t need to keep cranking on the preload.

Here’s a pic of my failed attempt:

I assume the problem was with the stock UCA?
Thanks for the info, looks like everyone on this thread has saved me a lot of headache which is why this forum rocks. I like the idea of a small top hat such as 1/2" motofab to help some of the lift not be all preload. A mixture of preload/top hat just makes more sense to me rather than entire preload lift.

Why is that wrong or what is everyone's opinion of that vs just cranking up the bilsteins?
Again, look at the Zone 2" level?
Wouldn't that be the same idea as a bilstein/motofab idea?

70% roads 30% forest service roads/trails
 

djevox

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I assume the problem was with the stock UCA?
Thanks for the info, looks like everyone on this thread has saved me a lot of headache which is why this forum rocks. I like the idea of a small top hat such as 1/2" motofab to help some of the lift not be all preload. A mixture of preload/top hat just makes more sense to me rather than entire preload lift.

Why is that wrong or what is everyone's opinion of that vs just cranking up the bilsteins?
Again, look at the Zone 2" level?
Wouldn't that be the same idea as a bilstein/motofab idea?

70% roads 30% forest service roads/trails
Yeah, I think it was my choice of upper control arm that was the problem. I chose to get the rough country UCA’s for 0 to 3 inch lift, when I really needed the 3.5+” UCA. I should have gone with my gut on that option, but I listened to the sales rep at rough country- that’ll be the last time I do that. I’m guessing the Readylift uca may be fine since it was fine with my 3” eibach kit, but the coils in the Eibach kit were smaller diameter, so I don’t know for certain that there wouldn’t of been an issue.

I don’t think there’s anything wrong with cranking up the bilsteins, as long as you stay within what the geometry allows. At a certain point, you’re going to start blowing out axle joints, so you need to stay away from extreme cv joint angles. There’s also the potential to bend or collapse the lower shock mount, but that’s a little less probable with the design of our shocks.

Edit: That zone kit would be fine because it combines preload and tophat spacers. That’s essentially what I did with my coilovers- combined preload with lengthening.
 

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