Need help! Dead battery x2

[RamLtd19]

Just bought a used 2019 Ram 1500 limited. Brought it home and the truck was completely dead in the am. Dealer came out, jumped it no problem, left a loaner and took it in to check. Sent it to an auto electric specialist who after a week of having it found a draw & disconnected a previous owners tracker…dealer says problem solved. Drove it for a week and again come out to a dead truck, fob not working, had to key in and nothing inside responding or lit up. This time a tow truck sent, jumped it, started no problem. Back to electric specialist who thinks it’s a connection issue. They can’t replicate the issue and it’s starting right up for them. Battery apparently has full charge and no parasitic draws

Not an electrician so I’m stumped…if it’s a connection issue why would it act up just sitting over night or start on jump if there’s a disconnection?

Anyone else experiencing this? What is the problem and/or solution?

 

[Darksteel165]

Should of replaced the 12v battery.
Also could depend on which engine you have it in.

 

[RamLtd19]

5.7 hemi, no e-torque. Battery is a Deka Intimidator AGM, battery manufacture date of 11/23.

I keep asking for a battery change as that seems like the easiest variable to rule out, but keep getting dismissed.

 

[Darksteel165]

So it was dead overnight. Whats the voltage read when the engine is on and the battery should be charging on the screen?

Either there is a drain on the battery, a bad battery, or a bad charger, in your case the alternator.

The drain could even be a bad ground or something of the sort too.
If the voltage is not high enough while driving then I suspect could be the alternator is bad and not charging it much faster then it's draining it resulting in a bad charge by the time you get home. Should be high 13v or up to like 14.6. Typically 14.3 should be normal with an AGM battery while charging (truck is on)

Go buy a voltage meter and check the voltage of the battery when you get home, disconnect the negative terminal before doing so. Leave the battery disconnected, can put a towel over the exposed stub on the battery overnight. In the morning check the voltage on the battery, it should be the same. If it's not then a bad battery. If it is the same then it's not the battery.
Should be at like 12.3v when you shut it off and disconnect the negative terminal to test it.

 

[User_63152]

There are known issues with the electrical systems of these trucks. I am convinced. I am on battery 3 and it is giving my issues AGAIN. I am so sick of this crap. There has to be a draw somewhere. Dealer can't find anything, blah blah blah. They take no responsibility. I keep getting codes that have to do with the transmission low voltage, or whatever. I am about over it. My lease is up the end of March. Truck is going bye bye.

 

[dajogejr]

There are known issues with the electrical systems of these trucks. I am convinced. I am on battery 3 and it is giving my issues AGAIN. I am so sick of this crap. There has to be a draw somewhere. Dealer can't find anything, blah blah blah. They take no responsibility. I keep getting codes that have to do with the transmission low voltage, or whatever. I am about over it. My lease is up the end of March. Truck is going bye bye.

If you’re getting another RAM, let me give you a nickel’s worth of free advice.
If you’re going to take a stock truck, the do the following…and complain about a possible draw (on a lease) you may want to go to an electrical specialist. Any one of these, could be a battery draw.

Complete Aftermarket Audio Upgrade - Diode Dynamics LED Interior Bulbs - Rigid Ignite Light Pods (Reverse) -Roar Pedal Bluetooth - FITCAM X Dash Cam - Custom AC Hack - Tazer DT

Now, if those mods are on a truck you no longer have, and your signature is outdated, you have my apologies.

 

[Darksteel165]

If you’re getting another RAM, let me give you a nickel’s worth of free advice.
If you’re going to take a stock truck, the do the following…and complain about a possible draw (on a lease) you may want to go to an electrical specialist. Any one of these, could be a battery draw.

Complete Aftermarket Audio Upgrade - Diode Dynamics LED Interior Bulbs - Rigid Ignite Light Pods (Reverse) -Roar Pedal Bluetooth - FITCAM X Dash Cam - Custom AC Hack - Tazer DT

Now, if those mods are on a truck you no longer have, and your signature is outdated, you have my apologies.

AC hack wouldn't
Tazer DT, Fitcam, and Roar Pedal Bluetooth could be.
My money would be on the "roar pedal bluetooth" or the "complete aftermarket audio upgrade"

 

[User_63152]

AC hack wouldn't
Tazer DT, Fitcam, and Roar Pedal Bluetooth could be.
My money would be on the "roar pedal bluetooth" or the "complete aftermarket audio upgrade"

You are probably right. I'm sure it's my fault. Usually is

 

[User_63152]

If you’re getting another RAM, let me give you a nickel’s worth of free advice.
If you’re going to take a stock truck, the do the following…and complain about a possible draw (on a lease) you may want to go to an electrical specialist. Any one of these, could be a battery draw.

Complete Aftermarket Audio Upgrade - Diode Dynamics LED Interior Bulbs - Rigid Ignite Light Pods (Reverse) -Roar Pedal Bluetooth - FITCAM X Dash Cam - Custom AC Hack - Tazer DT

Now, if those mods are on a truck you no longer have, and your signature is outdated, you have my apologies.

You're right. I shouldn't complain with that aftermarket stuff.

 

[Kicker]

You are probably right. I'm sure it's my fault. Usually is

That's what my wife tells me.

 

[dajogejr]

That's what my wife tells me.

I’m thinking we’re related.. by marriage of course. LOL

 

[kapinallinen2]

Anyone else experiencing this? What is the problem and/or solution?

My battery drain was caused by the electronics not shutting down completely.

This started while I was down in Florida for x-mas vacation.
Barely turning over one morning, replaced battery even tho auto-zone said it was OK. Good for several days, got home in one piece.
Then a dead battery again, jumped, fine for couple days and then dead again.

I used a keep-alive power supply to see what was going on.
Truck would wind down to pulling 1.4 amps, then after few minutes it would start to ramp back up, 3.4 amps then 5.5 then 6.6 and back down to 1.4 amps.
This went on thru the night, no wonder my battery was going flat.
The spec. calls for a maximum current draw of 50 milli-amps after a set time.

Long story short...
In my case, the problem went away after cleaning ground connection G2A.
It did not look corroded, had just a minor grayish film on the lugs, cleaned it thoroughly, applied silver conductive grease and been good so far.
This was in January 2022.

edit:
What led me to the G2A, was that I measured 0.1 volts from the negative battery post to the fender ground stud.
That`s a lot of drop on such a short run.

 

[RamLtd19]

My battery drain was caused by the electronics not shutting down completely.

This started while I was down in Florida for x-mas vacation.
Barely turning over one morning, replaced battery even tho auto-zone said it was OK. Good for several days, got home in one piece.
Then a dead battery again, jumped, fine for couple days and then dead again.

I used a keep-alive power supply to see what was going on.
Truck would wind down to pulling 1.4 amps, then after few minutes it would start to ramp back up, 3.4 amps then 5.5 then 6.6 and back down to 1.4 amps.
This went on thru the night, no wonder my battery was going flat.
The spec. calls for a maximum current draw of 50 milli-amps after a set time.

Long story short...
In my case, the problem went away after cleaning ground connection G2A.
It did not look corroded, had just a minor grayish film on the lugs, cleaned it thoroughly, applied silver conductive grease and been good so far.
This was in January 2022.

edit:
What led me to the G2A, was that I measured 0.1 volts from the negative battery post to the fender ground stud.
That`s a lot of drop on such a short run.

Thanks for the guidance and I’ll pass on to the electrical specialist who has my truck. Maybe that will give them a starting point.

 

[dajogejr]

What led me to the G2A, was that I measured 0.1 volts from the negative battery post to the fender ground stud.
That`s a lot of drop on such a short run.

Sorry to say…that kind of troubleshooting and diagnostic is lost on many “mechanics” today.
Kudos to you!!

 

[RamLtd19]

UPDATE: the electrical specialist was able to recreate the dead truck scenario. Battery was almost completely drained despite being full on previous check. Said this is most likely due to a major component not turning off/running after truck is off (ie air suspension pump, fuel pump, etc.). Reassured me the battery is good and alternator is getting “great numbers”. I’ll get exact #’s on next update.

 

[kapinallinen2]

UPDATE: the electrical specialist was able to recreate the dead truck scenario. Battery was almost completely drained despite being full on previous check. Said this is most likely due to a major component not turning off/running after truck is off (ie air suspension pump, fuel pump, etc.). Reassured me the battery is good and alternator is getting “great numbers”. I’ll get exact #’s on next update.

Should be obvious if the compressor or fuel pump is running and draining the battery.
Just checked my truck.
With ignition on engine off and doors closed, the modules alone pull about 16 amps.

 

[RamLtd19]

Should be obvious if the compressor or fuel pump is running and draining the battery.
Just checked my truck.
With ignition on engine off and doors closed, the modules alone pull about 16 amps.

Yea, said they haven’t heard anything running so I’m not sure what’s next. This seems like a needle haystack problem with these trucks. Lots of electrical issues, but all seem to come from various sources.

 

[RamLtd19]

Latest update: the truck is staying in ACC mode after being turned off with significant draw on the battery. Now we have to isolate what causes that. Any one seen this?

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Bad push start button I've seen mentioned.

 

[RamLtd19]

Bad push start button I've seen mentioned.

Good call. Isolated the issue to the start/stop button panel. Hoping this is truly the issue