Muzzys AC hack.

[malgen]

All the how tos and posts out there show you what line for the hemi and diesel. Does anyone know what like it is you install or clamp off on the penta to make the AC colder?? Thabks!!

 

[Scram1500]

Take a look at the water pump. There are two rubber heater hoses. They are labeled IN and OUT, you may have to pull back the sheathing a little to see the writing. You want the ball valve on the OUT side of the water pump

 

[malgen]

Take a look at the water pump. There are two rubber heater hoses. They are labeled IN and OUT, you may have to pull back the sheathing a little to see the writing. You want the ball valve on the OUT side of the water pump

My hoses aren't labeled in and out specifically. I have a thick hose on the bottom. And a thin hose right above it. And I did pull back the web sheathing over it. But I'm not sure which one... I assume it's the thinner one but I'm not 100% sure.

 

[Scram1500]

Trace that small hose and see if it goes into the firewall. On the Hemi, OUT from the water pump is the top hose which is in for the heater core. That's the hose you want

 

[Scram1500]

 

[malgen]

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to help me out! The line coming out of the water pump does not go back through the firewall. I found the lines that come into the firewall but one of them goes to the etorque component. I know the 3.6 isn't as popular as the hemi which sucks for information about it out here. I've attached some more pictures of what I've found. The other one T's into the fat line from the pump

 

[Scram1500]

Thats odd. If it goes to the e-torque I wouldn't block it's flow. The Pentstar may not be a candidate for the AC hack.

 

[JimD007]

I made this simple modification on my 2009 "classic" shortly after getting it - several years ago. I bought it in December of 2019 so it must have been in the spring of 2020. I cannot follow your pictures but coming off of the water pump there is a big flexible hose and a smaller one. The smaller is on top. If you follow that, there is a metal pipe in it with a T. On the top of that metal line, the T fitting (steel) come out headed up and goes to the heater core. I cut the hose connected to that T and put the valve in it. Works fine. AC is better, with the valve open the heater works normally. The other part of the metal line goes to something else but the hose I cut only goes to the heater core.

My "classic" is not totally the same as a "normal" Ram 1500. It does not have the mild hybrid system. I don't know if the differences include something related to the heater core piping but this mod works on my 3.6 V6.

 

[malgen]

I appreciate the info. I'll take another look. To look for a T.

 

[hulk2mad]

I made this simple modification on my 2009 "classic" shortly after getting it - several years ago. I bought it in December of 2019 so it must have been in the spring of 2020. I cannot follow your pictures but coming off of the water pump there is a big flexible hose and a smaller one. The smaller is on top. If you follow that, there is a metal pipe in it with a T. On the top of that metal line, the T fitting (steel) come out headed up and goes to the heater core. I cut the hose connected to that T and put the valve in it. Works fine. AC is better, with the valve open the heater works normally. The other part of the metal line goes to something else but the hose I cut only goes to the heater core.

My "classic" is not totally the same as a "normal" Ram 1500. It does not have the mild hybrid system. I don't know if the differences include something related to the heater core piping but this mod works on my 3.6 V6.

 

[hulk2mad]

Jim, are you able to provide pictures? I live in Texas and this heat as Ben non stop!

 

[JimD007]

Sorry, I don't check this forum every day and just noticed this request. The image labeled "Truck 1" is from the front of the engine. At the bottom, in the center, you can see the small and large hose coming off the water pump. You want to follow the small one and, as you can see, it transitions into a metal pipe. The image labeled "Truck 2" shows that same pipe where it passes the dipstick. About in the center of the picture you can see clamps I added when I cut the line going to my heater core. You can kind of see the metal T fitting that the hose I cut comes off of. Truck 2 is still from the front of the engine, just a smaller area. Truck 3 is down on the passengers side of the engine looking at the same hose and again you can see the worm clamps I added. The valve is between the clamps. It's small and hard to see. I hope this helps, I do not know if my plumbing is the same as yours.

 

[JimD007]

Before you cut the flexible hose coming off the T fitting you want to look at where it goes. You want the hose that goes into the firewall. There is another hose there that goes somewhere else.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Sorry, I don't check this forum every day and just noticed this request. The image labeled "Truck 1" is from the front of the engine. At the bottom, in the center, you can see the small and large hose coming off the water pump. You want to follow the small one and, as you can see, it transitions into a metal pipe. The image labeled "Truck 2" shows that same pipe where it passes the dipstick. About in the center of the picture you can see clamps I added when I cut the line going to my heater core. You can kind of see the metal T fitting that the hose I cut comes off of. Truck 2 is still from the front of the engine, just a smaller area. Truck 3 is down on the passengers side of the engine looking at the same hose and again you can see the worm clamps I added. The valve is between the clamps. It's small and hard to see. I hope this helps, I do not know if my plumbing is the same as yours.

Be prepared for that valve to stop working over time. I have one like that in my 2000 Dakota and after a few months of engine heat it started getting hard to turn. Now it won't turn without the use of pliers and even then won't fully close anymore.

 

[JimD007]

Mine has been in use for over 2 years so far and still works fine. Sorry your experience was not as good.

 

[theblet]

Be prepared for that valve to stop working over time. I have one like that in my 2000 Dakota and after a few months of engine heat it started getting hard to turn. Now it won't turn without the use of pliers and even then won't fully close anymore.

When I had this valve, it started leaking in a week. The ball valve from Lowes is much better

 

[Nstoolman1]

It has been said in the other thread to not cut the hose. Disconnect the hose, add valve and then add a short new piece to the other end of the valve. That way if you need to go to the dealer you remove the valve and short piece of hose. It will still look factory then.