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Max trailer weight recommendation

SleepyWeasel

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My wife and I are considering buying a travel trailer and I am looking for recommendations for the max SAFE weight GVW of travel trailer to consider. My current vehicle is a 2020 Limited 1500 4x4 with 3.92 rear end. By using my VIN, the RAM website indicates 11.2k is my max towing capacity.

We would like to get the most trailer we can while not having a white knuckle experience while driving. My plan is to also get a 14k weight distribution hitch to go along with the trailer.

I currently have a 7x16 enclosed cargo trailer with a 7500 GVW. I have towed this back and forth from PA to NC 4 times at or near max GVW with a 2014 and 2016 RAM 1500 Laramie and didn't have any issues. On both of those trucks, I added airbags to help with keeping the truck level while loaded and did not use a WDH.

I have towed this same trailer at maybe 5000lbs for a short distance and the 2020 seemed to porpoise up and down with the air suspension on this new RAM. Will the addition of a WDH help to limit this?

When doing my searches for a TT, I am setting my max GVW for the trailer at 9k lbs. In your opinion, is 9k asking too much for a 1500 to pull long distances?
 

NordicNevs

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In my opinion yes too much. I have a feeling you’ll run out of payload on the limited before you run out of guts but 9-10k in RV trailer dynamics is a lot for a 1500. Personally I would limit it to about 6k or get a little more truck. 6k is an arbitrary number as so much more goes into it but length, pin weight and trailer GVWR should all be considered


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Zeronet

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What does the yellow tire and loading sticker inside your drivers door say for max payload? How many passengers and how much cargo are you planning to carry in the truck? A 9000# camper will have quite a heavy tongue weight.

Length is also a factor. With a half ton I would try to stay under 30ft overall length if planning to travel long distances. Weather can greatly affect your towing experience. Winds can really move around a longer trailer.

I have the air suspension and have had zero porpoising with a weight distributing hitch. See my signature for details about what I tow.
 

devildodge

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Your truck should weigh 80% of your trailer or more for assurance of no white knuckle moments.
So let's say you have a truck with a 1500lb payload.

7100 minus 1500 is 5600. 7000 would be the trailer max. This being GVWR of the trailer.

If you pack light...i would max at a 7500 lb GVWR trailer under 30 feet long.

My opinion.
 

SleepyWeasel

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Sticker say max cargo payload is 1221lbs. It will be just my wife and I and we generally travel light because I hate packing and unpacking. Probably a couple bicycles at the most for recreation, may be a small grill depending on TT options.
 

SleepyWeasel

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That is my thinking as well. I towed my maxed out cargo trailer in my truck with a 3.21 rear end and six speed transmission and it did just fine.
 

Boston

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I think you need to get the truck, trailer and you and your gear down to a weigh scale.
Porpoising tends to be caused by inadequate tongue weight
 

intelligence209

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whats your payload?

(ball parking your payload 1,500lbs) Max Tongue 700 (will be close to 900 after battery, propane, hitches etc) trailer 7500-8000lbs full.
Just as important is trailer hight. Toyhaulers are usually taller, if you can try to go around 10-11ft high to help sway, also nothing over 34ft length.


edit: just seen your payload. just you and your wife ~300lbs but you also want to account for wood, icechest and whatnot you may have. Unforntately payload always max out before towing.

so maybe tongue 5-600 empty, (800lbs with cargo)

Answer: 800lbs max tongue including cargo, 8000lbs trailer including cargo 32-34ft including tongue length
 
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Willwork4truck

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All good replies. Amazing that most all agree that OP needs to be aware of payload/tongue/pin weights. Overall length is rarely discussed but should be, as “tail wagging the dog” is still something to be considered.
 

Boston

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Great question. Glad you have experience with trailers.
A typical cargo weight of a trailer maxes out at 2000lbs at your level. I’m not going to say you should get a 9000lb dry weight trailer. In fact whenever weight limits get pushed you are in white knuckle territory.
Remember any downhill and it will push you hard. Any uphill and it will drag you back.
So max out at 8k dry.
And when she says you need something bigger, get a 2500/3500
 

SleepyWeasel

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Anything that we take with us will most probably stored in the trailer itself, so in the vehicle itself it will be my fat *** at 220lbs, my wife at 118lbs, and the dog at 50lbs. The trailer were most interested in has a GVW of 7500lbs and a tongue weight of 785lbs.
 

devildodge

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7500 is sweet. I like that number. Sounds like a perfect match to your truck.

My calculations for my 2500 is a 9500lb max trailer...so I think you are going in the right direction.

7500 GVWR with a 750 lb tongue will tow well with a 1500
 

NordicNevs

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It’s a relief to see folks actually discuss the realistic weights on this thread. All too often you get the “but my truck is rated to 10,500” arguments and that’s just not reality when you add physics and forces that a TT brings to the table.
Well done all


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JJRamTX

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It’s a relief to see folks actually discuss the realistic weights on this thread. All too often you get the “but my truck is rated to 10,500” arguments and that’s just not reality when you add physics and forces that a TT brings to the table.
Well done all


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Quick question for you, I am looking at a 20,000 LB GVWR Fifth wheel TT and to upgrade my 1500 to a 3500 in the near future to pull it. Do you think the single rear wheel 3500 works well for fifth wheels (I see the payload is about 800Lbs less but it is still over 4K) or is a DRW clearly the way to go from your opinion?
 

WXman

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These trucks are tested using SAE J2807 methods. If the towing rating says it'll do it safely, it will do it safely. If your truck is rated 12,000 lbs. towing, it'll tow 12,000 lbs. safely. It's not 1992 anymore.

All you have to do is make sure you're within specs. Is your payload within spec? Occupants, gear, tongue weight, add it all up and see if it's within payload spec on your door jamb placard. If you're within payload spec, gross trailer spec, axle weight spec, and you're running trailer brakes, then you are FINE. Load it up and go.
 

devildodge

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These trucks are tested using SAE J2807 methods. If the towing rating says it'll do it safely, it will do it safely. If your truck is rated 12,000 lbs. towing, it'll tow 12,000 lbs. safely. It's not 1992 anymore.

All you have to do is make sure you're within specs. Is your payload within spec? Occupants, gear, tongue weight, add it all up and see if it's within payload spec on your door jamb placard. If you're within payload spec, gross trailer spec, axle weight spec, and you're running trailer brakes, then you are FINE. Load it up and go.
If you haven't you should read the specs for the max tow rating.

You will see it is near impossible to meet the requirements.

And also the OP said he wanted to not be white knuckle.

So, I gave him a reasonable, smart way to figure a safe comfortable tow.

My opinion is towing near max, it isn't comfortable. But to each their own.

Your second paragraph completely compromised your first.

For max towing you can only have 300lbs of payload and a 70lb hitch.

See, not attainable...atleast not for me. I weigh 295 and with my boots on i am over.
 

NordicNevs

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These trucks are tested using SAE J2807 methods. If the towing rating says it'll do it safely, it will do it safely. If your truck is rated 12,000 lbs. towing, it'll tow 12,000 lbs. safely. It's not 1992 anymore.

All you have to do is make sure you're within specs. Is your payload within spec? Occupants, gear, tongue weight, add it all up and see if it's within payload spec on your door jamb placard. If you're within payload spec, gross trailer spec, axle weight spec, and you're running trailer brakes, then you are FINE. Load it up and go.

Sure thing and a good question. Your RAWR (rear axel weight restriction) will likely limit you along with the tires that will get you to the pin weight of a 20,000lb fifth wheel on a SRW truck.
Sure you can option a single cab long bed that will afford you the payload to meet the pin weight of these 5ers (some over 4500lbs) but there are other factors.
Most larger 5th wheels don’t follow the 20% rule. Due to their lay outs, axel placements and amenities they can approach the 35% pin weight world. That’s why we see 21,000GVWR momentum’s with 3500-3800 loaded pin weight.
That said the simple answer to your question would be to do it and have a pleasant experience DRW hands down would be a great option for you. The added stability is a game changer. Now a SRW could do it in the correct configuration but I would expect the journey to get there would be far less enjoyable.

For comparative reasons I added my payload and weight stickers from my 19 Megacab 3500 SRW. It’s a Laramie trim and high output Cummins. Also my cat scale (not fully loaded weights and a photo of our set up) RV is a 311BHS 38-39’ and 14999GVWR)

Hope it answers your question of not shoot me some more details and I’ll be happy to help you investigate further.
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NordicNevs

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Oh one final note. Pick the RV first then the truck. As you can see we got a 5er that works for us with the truck we have but if you start getting really heavy you’ll want to move to a DRW.


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