Mark Dodge Thread

[Dunga]

My truck shipped 6/30 and I just started finance paperwork today. It’ll be a month after shipping to delivery for me.

Same. I did the finance application last week. Waiting to get the call from the F&I manager.

 

[SealTeamFive]

Same. I did the finance application last week. Waiting to get the call from the F&I manager.

I am a few days behind you Dunga. wonder if we will pick up our trucks the same day? Perhaps this Saturday!

 

[Dunga]

I am a few days behind you Dunga. wonder if we will pick up our trucks the same day? Perhaps this Saturday!

I wish. I’m almost certain I’m gonna have to have it shipped. I work night shifts from tomorrow through Sunday morning, then day shifts from Monday for 10 days straight, then flip back to nights. I’m disappointed I’m not making the trip tbh. It’s just the uncertainty of when it will be ready, and the unlikelihood of me finding someone to cover my shifts with such short notice.

 

[Rammmer]

At what point of the finance process are you required to submit coupons, affiliate discounts, etc? I imagine ram requires some contractual cutoff date so people aren't sumbitting this stuff after the fact.

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

 

[JVSTBEE]

Mine was off-loaded from the port on the 5th of July...and I haven't heard anything since then. Doesn't sound like they're contacting folks in the order the trucks were received.

UPDATE: Aaron saw this post and reached out to me yesterday. Just received pictures of my truck this AM and have started the process. I'll write a full review on this entire transaction/process with Mark Dodge once I receive my truck, but it's all good things like many others before me have stated.

 

[Dunga]

At what point of the finance process are you required to submit coupons, affiliate discounts, etc? I imagine ram requires some contractual cutoff date so people aren't sumbitting this stuff after the fact.

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

When you get the call from Aaron. He’ll send you an email first telling you your truck arrived and showing you pictures. Also has the link to the credit application if you’re financing through them. Then he’ll call you to say hi and cross the Ts and dot the Is. He’ll then go over all applicable incentives you have and are applicable. Then he sends the file to the F&I office. Then it’s a few days for them to get to you.

I just got off the phone with Reggie the F&I manager assigned to my truck. The entire call took 4 minutes. We confirmed the truck, trim, color, selling price and incentives. Offered me extended warranty but I declined. It can be added on after the fact for a small surcharge. He will email everything this afternoon, then we e-sign.

Final step is to have the gentleman in charge of shipping coordination reach out.

This has been a wonderful experience. Those guys are so professional and courteous. I wish they sold other manufacturers. I’ve been making some calls about getting in line for a new Z06.

 

[boogielander]

They ask you not to use an auto car wash. It’s not quite possible in the winter here to hand wash all the time. Is it mostly the “soft touch” that’s bad? I never use soft touch, always touch free if that’s any difference.

i have friends who run detailing shops and I also had ceramic coating on my 4Runner that I didn't really take care of (expensive lessons).

Auto Car Wash, whether it is machine, soft touch, no touch, or coin op, have incorrect pH shampoo that will not be good for your clearcoat and ceramic coat.
They recommend hand wash because then you'll be able to get the correct pH value shampoo and be gentle with it. In addition, it is good idea to "maintain" your coating with rejuvenators at least annually to keep the coating "alive." They say coating is good for certain years, but you want to maintain it to make it last that long. Don't be like me who offroad with it thinking it's good but the truth is, it's not and there are lots of work needs to be done to keep it fresh.

In winter, I'd just rinse it with water and foam canyon it and then rinse, then use a blower to blow it dry.

TL;DR:
1. anything other than hand wash with proper pH shampoo is bad
2. You need to maintain the coating at least annually with rejuvenating products
3. Periodic rinse with water to get rid of dust particles is good. You don't need to use soap all the time unless there's tree sap, bug splatter, or stuff like that. Dry off with a blow dryer.
4. If you take it offroad, just skip coating and use paint protection film. Coating does not protect from pinstripes and stuff.

 

[Dunga]

i have friends who run detailing shops and I also had ceramic coating on my 4Runner that I didn't really take care of (expensive lessons).

Auto Car Wash, whether it is machine, soft touch, no touch, or coin op, have incorrect pH shampoo that will not be good for your clearcoat and ceramic coat.
They recommend hand wash because then you'll be able to get the correct pH value shampoo and be gentle with it. In addition, it is good idea to "maintain" your coating with rejuvenators at least annually to keep the coating "alive." They say coating is good for certain years, but you want to maintain it to make it last that long. Don't be like me who offroad with it thinking it's good but the truth is, it's not and there are lots of work needs to be done to keep it fresh.

In winter, I'd just rinse it with water and foam canyon it and then rinse, then use a blower to blow it dry.

TL;DR:
1. anything other than hand wash with proper pH shampoo is bad
2. You need to maintain the coating at least annually with rejuvenating products
3. Periodic rinse with water to get rid of dust particles is good. You don't need to use soap all the time unless there's tree sap, bug splatter, or stuff like that. Dry off with a blow dryer.
4. If you take it offroad, just skip coating and use paint protection film. Coating does not protect from pinstripes and stuff.

Thanks for the instructions. I did learn the expensive way as well. Didn’t really take care of the coatings on several cars I’d owned.

I do try to hand wash a lot. Wondering if my chemical guys shampoo is the right ph now. I use a separate wheel shampoo in a different bucket. The hardest thing for me is cleaning the wheels without taking them off since the AMG brake dust sticks like glue. Some luck with iron X but far from ideal results.

 

[boogielander]

Thanks for the instructions. I did learn the expensive way as well. Didn’t really take care of the coatings on several cars I’d owned.

I do try to hand wash a lot. Wondering if my chemical guys shampoo is the right ph now. I use a separate wheel shampoo in a different bucket. The hardest thing for me is cleaning the wheels without taking them off since the AMG brake dust sticks like glue. Some luck with iron X but far from ideal results.

you're welcome. i feel like a lot of people made the mistake that I made when it comes to coating thinking it's just apply it and be done with it. It costed me $2k for a 10 year full vehicle coating every exterior panel and wheels, with 2 or 3 stage color correction and polish the whole nine yards) on the 4runner and it's gone to trash in 2 years. very expensive lesson there.

Regarding shampoo, I'd look for shampoos that are labeled ceramic coating safe and use that only. I think chem guys has a special line of it, but not sure since I buy my friend's shop's inhouse blend that are not labelled.

For your AMG wheels, I'd take them off and do a detailed clean then coat them to make life easier lol. I don't drive my M3 enough to accumulate enough brake dust for that, but M brakes are also notorious for brake dust too.

 

[nc_beagle]

i have friends who run detailing shops and I also had ceramic coating on my 4Runner that I didn't really take care of (expensive lessons).

Auto Car Wash, whether it is machine, soft touch, no touch, or coin op, have incorrect pH shampoo that will not be good for your clearcoat and ceramic coat.
They recommend hand wash because then you'll be able to get the correct pH value shampoo and be gentle with it. In addition, it is good idea to "maintain" your coating with rejuvenators at least annually to keep the coating "alive." They say coating is good for certain years, but you want to maintain it to make it last that long. Don't be like me who offroad with it thinking it's good but the truth is, it's not and there are lots of work needs to be done to keep it fresh.

In winter, I'd just rinse it with water and foam canyon it and then rinse, then use a blower to blow it dry.

TL;DR:
1. anything other than hand wash with proper pH shampoo is bad
2. You need to maintain the coating at least annually with rejuvenating products
3. Periodic rinse with water to get rid of dust particles is good. You don't need to use soap all the time unless there's tree sap, bug splatter, or stuff like that. Dry off with a blow dryer.
4. If you take it offroad, just skip coating and use paint protection film. Coating does not protect from pinstripes and stuff.

If rainwater runs acidic (roughly 5.0-5.5 from my brief research) is it worth worrying about the shampoo you use unless you never drive in the rain? I assume the idea is to avoid an acidic shampoo but a truck can easily be exposed to far more rain water than car wash water and soap.

This is a general question, not picking on your decision to use the neutral soap.

 

[wallyuwl]

Signed for the truck last week just days before the $1000 pop up coupon started showing up on the Ram site. Truck is still at MD waiting on a shipper. Said they can't do anything. Kind of bummed literally two days cost $1000 more.

 

[Abckmyr]

Signed for the truck last week just days before the $1000 pop up coupon started showing up on the Ram site. Truck is still at MD waiting on a shipper. Said they can't do anything. Kind of bummed literally two days cost $1000 more.

What this coupon you are talking about?
Just order my truck this month.

 

[SealTeamFive]

Thanks for the instructions. I did learn the expensive way as well. Didn’t really take care of the coatings on several cars I’d owned.

I do try to hand wash a lot. Wondering if my chemical guys shampoo is the right ph now. I use a separate wheel shampoo in a different bucket. The hardest thing for me is cleaning the wheels without taking them off since the AMG brake dust sticks like glue. Some luck with iron X but far from ideal results.

I do a significant amount of detailing myself. I declined the ceramic package from MD because I am going to do the paint correction and coating myself. Chemical Guys snow foam is a perfectly good soap to use and arguably their best product. It is pH neutral so no issues on ceramic coatings. I would recommend a ceramic spray after cleanings. I use Adams ceramic boost. It effectively puts a sacrificial layer of ceramic over your coating to make it last longer. Spray on and wipe off after cleanings. Quick and easy.

brake dust is tough to remove. I use Sonax wheel cleaner if it isn’t too crusted on. I like sonax because it is pH neutral and does an ok if not great job of removing grime. It turns color from yellow to red as it reacts with the iron in brake dust. If it is, I use meguiars non acid wheel cleaner. You have to be careful with wheel cleaners because many are either acidic and will eat through your wheels clear coat or very basic and while technically safe for most wheels, you very much want to spray, agitate and remove. I use the meguiars non acid (12.5 to 13.5 pH) when I need a stronger chemical to remove dust and dirt. A separate wheel brush (boars hair) is my preferred tool For agitation.

 

[JoeI21]

Hey Guys,

I’m finalizing the details for my build. I was wondering if anyone here did an out of state order with the freight delivery.

Curious if you can shed some light on the entire process and how it went for you.

thanjs

 

[wallyuwl]

What this coupon you are talking about?
Just order my truck this month.

Look at the stickied Prices Negotiated from MSRP thread near the top of the threads list in the forum, the last few pages talk about it.

 

[mike146]

Hey Guys,

I’m finalizing the details for my build. I was wondering if anyone here did an out of state order with the freight delivery.

Curious if you can shed some light on the entire process and how it went for you.

thanjs

Read through the thread and you will see many posts about this.

I live on long island in New York. Priced locally and found prices to be MSRP plus 3000. Wasn't willing to pull trigger at that price. Then found the thread on getting best price on this forum. Emailed Mark Dodge, dealt with Renae and Aaron, got the best price I could find. I ordered in November 21, took delivery on March 22. Everything went well. Had tru k delivered and other than being dirty from both truck rides. To dealership and then to me, truck was excellent. There were two minor things missing on interior, a small cap for an exposed screw under seat, and a small panel near rear door handle. Aaron had both sent to me ASAP.

I paid 1 per mile at time and even with that cost, savings were over 10,000 vs local dealer. Would definitely do process again.

I understand that shipping is a bit different now and possibly more expensive. But do the math, may still be worth it.

 

[Abckmyr]

Look at the stickied Prices Negotiated from MSRP thread near the top of the threads list in the forum, the last few pages talk about it.

I looked on tread lightly and didn’t see anything about a coupon. Guess it’s not available anymore or I’m not looking in the right place.
Can anyone tell me if it’s still available?

 

[cleigh]

I looked on tread lightly and didn’t see anything about a coupon. Guess it’s not available anymore or I’m not looking in the right place.
Can anyone tell me if it’s still available?

There's two things at play. The coupon is if you go to Ramtrucks.com, browse in private browsing, and get a popup offering a $1k coupon (enter info, it gives it to you immediately and emails it as well).

Tread Lightly is a membership. You join at the $100 level, and you get a t-shirt, stickers, and various discounts. Included in the discounts is an affiliate program offer for 1% below invoice, which for Mark Dodge (since you're already below invoice) translates to a $500 affiliate discount. This only works if you have at least 30 days between when you purchase tread lightly and when you pay for your truck.

 

[boogielander]

i have friends who run detailing shops and I also had ceramic coating on my 4Runner that I didn't really take care of (expensive lessons).


If rainwater runs acidic (roughly 5.0-5.5 from my brief research) is it worth worrying about the shampoo you use unless you never drive in the rain? I assume the idea is to avoid an acidic shampoo but a truck can easily be exposed to far more rain water than car wash water and soap.

This is a general question, not picking on your decision to use the neutral soap.

i understand.
so what i was told was: after it rains, rinse it off as soon as possible. avoiding using acidic or basic shampoo will simply reduce the amount of acidic or basic chemicals your coating is exposed to. besides, that's what the annual maintenance is for: to refresh your coating.
but then i live in SoCal and it doesn't rain here so I never thought about that. I just rinse it after it rains.

 

[boogielander]

Hey Guys,

I’m finalizing the details for my build. I was wondering if anyone here did an out of state order with the freight delivery.

Curious if you can shed some light on the entire process and how it went for you.

thanjs

I am doing out of state purchase right now (stuck at D status - order confirmed w/ VIN). However, my friend and I have combined sent over 10 of our friends over to MD and they all had their trucks shipped from LA to Southern California (where we all live). Most of them are Jeeps but my friend ordered a TRX.

From what I've seen with the TRX, once your truck is ready to go, they'll call you and ask if you want it shipped or you want to go pick it up. Then they'll give you a recommended price and if you agree to it, they will put it out on truckers' job board for trucks to pick. Then once a trucker accepts the job, they will let you know and once your truck is picked up, they will also let you know. They "should" also give you the trucker's phone number so you can contact the driver to coordinate time and location of drop off.

Then, once you receive your truck, go over the truck with the driver to see if there's damage (chips, dents, unknown fluids, etc). Once you are satisfied, you pay the trucker in cash and he/ she should give you a bill of lading or a receipt. If you are in Commiefornia, you'll have to get the truck smog checked and VIN verified, and send the completed paperwork back to MD in the included FedEx envelop and they will complete the registration part for you.

My friend's TRX came on a hotshot trucker (HD truck with 5th wheel), not on a semi, due to TRX's extra large size. My friend paid around $1500 for 1650 miles.

I also read here that you can find your own transpo for delivery as well, or you can have MD find them and pay MD for the shipping charge. For similar distance, Montway quoted me slightly over $1300.

I've used Montway last year to ship my new-to-me M3 from FL to SoCal and I have no complaints. Montway is a broker service, they don't have their own fleet.