Lower speed vibrations or duratracs?

[SilverSurfer15]

Just another rebel here that doesn’t have that issue (I don’t think). I have carven exhaust so I’m not sure I would notice this, but reading some of the later post it seems like it’s very pronounced for you guys so I don’t think I do. 11k miles currently.

Side note:
The vibration in the pedals will FOR SURE be there if you are accelerating in MDS. Sometimes the truck will let you really tack on the load in MDS, that will cause the pedals to vibrate pretty bad. To test this, just push the negative button on the gear selector. Keep everything the same (same gear same speed same rpm) but just kill the MDS. See if that does anything.

 

[cgdmnky]

Will try that when I get vehicle back from service. Perhaps they will have solved it by then.

 

[MBORO19RAM]

I will chime in here with industry issues and facts to resolve. Majority of Dealerships and tire shops ignore these and have not been properly educated on what to look for and how to correct. Unfortunately the customer experience is seldomly a good one especially when these steps are not utilized and overlooked. Dealerships will "Roadforce" everything when there is a problem and replace good tires when a simple mounting and balancing correction will fix the issue.

Complaint #1: Steering wheel shimmy side to side a lower speeds (25 to 55 mph).

What causes this: This condition happens almost 100% of the time when "Couple" vibration is not corrected when balancing tire/wheel assembly.

How to fix: 1st Make sure balancer is calibrated (Belt driven drive should be fully calibrated not just reset, Direct Drive models should be calibrated if you can't achieve a one-spin balance majority of the time). 2nd Make sure tech back cones wheel (Use proper cone/collet on back side of wheel where taper of hub exists. Shops will front cone because it's easier and perceived faster). 3rd Make sure weight saving mode is shut off (Weight saving balancers focus in on correcting "Static" only which is tire hop or tire moving up and down. The "Best" balance is traditional Dynamic balancing where "Couple" vibrations (side to side vibration) and "Static" vibrations (up and down vibration) are both corrected. "Couple" vibrations are magnified on larger/heavier wheel/tire assemblies and must be corrected to a very small amount otherwise the driver will feel them.

The facts: The facts are on a weight saving balancer there is a very high risk of not correcting the whole problem even though the Manufacturer will tell you otherwise. Weight saving balancers leave a large residual of "Couple" unbalance in the assembly and with larger/heavier assemblies this problem is magnified. Again majority of shops out there do not understand the facts and how to properly address the issue. They simply listen to a Marketing campaign from one of the best in the business in regard to Marketing propaganda. Insist on a traditional "Dynamic" balance and balance in fine mode for best results. Don't do a weight saving balance. Below is a short video clip of left over "Couple" vibration left in an assembly on a weight saving balancer. No thanks I am paying for a balance and not worried about the shop saving money on wheel weights.

Hope this info helps.

 

[Joshrebel19]

Will try that when I get vehicle back from service. Perhaps they will have solved it by then.

Any update after your truck came back from service?